Playing with tune up

[Drew Pojedinec]

Mr Larry,
With those gears it wouldn’t matter.

3:1 rear?  You’d probably be on the primary booster before on the second carb at 55mph

[Stangman]

If I was to run 1to1 linkage I think I would have to go back to the power valve in the rear carb. I’ve always run progressive so I know I’m gonna get it but when your trying to tune and have a misfire that comes and goes it can be a little annoying.

[Barry_R]

or raising float level.
Often a combo of both is the magic bullet.
The higher the float level, the less pressure differential required to lift fuel.

Sometimes I used to tune at EMC by moving the float level a flat or two. 
Faster than juggling jets - unless you need a macro change.
Takes two guys to do a jet change really fast....

[Stangman]

I’m still hoping to get this done this weekend but not looking good. Barry good to hear from you.
So on the quick fuel 750s I usually go about 35 to 50 percent in the sight glass is there a stock spec. I know some of the pro form carbs like 25 percent up the glass.

[Barry_R]

I’m still hoping to get this done this weekend but not looking good. Barry good to hear from you.
So on the quick fuel 750s I usually go about 35 to 50 percent in the sight glass is there a stock spec. I know some of the pro form carbs like 25 percent up the glass.

On dual quads I ignore the sight glass or plug. 
Factory Holley carbs have the sight plug at different heights on primary and secondary bowls.
This was done to compensate for the angle mounting on most OEM intakes.
Since Ford dual quads are mounted backwards it screws everything up - they did not alter the locations.
I set the floats to be parallel to the top of the bowl.

[Stangman]

Ok that’s easy. Thanks

[Stangman]

So I had about an hour to kill today so I figured I would go out there and at least OHM some plug
Wires. The #8 wire had the most at 95 OHMS so I didn’t experience that problem today so I’m just gonna save for some wires and put a fresh set on for the upcoming season.
After I let it warm up for 15 minutes I went over the floats and bumped one primary 1 flat but other than that floats are good. Went and adjusted idle mixture screws  and it wasn’t to bad. I took it for a ride and it feels ok not perfect.
I came back and figured I would readjust carb and something told me to check timing. Got out the light and timing was at 14 degrees. I know Blair said he had it at 18 so I figured why look at it but good thing I did. So I bumped the timing to 18 and had to lower the idle by 250 rpms. Went around and readjusted the carbs and it just sounds much better like less stressful.
Took it for a ride and throttle response is better and at cruise speed it’s doing less of that like holding back littlepopping noise.
I didn’t get to get on it way to much traffic but feels better. I am going to try and go for a ride on the parkway tonight.
Now things rolling threw my mind are did the distributor gear spin or somehow while Blair was trying things time got backed off. I guess I will know when I take it for a ride tonight. I guess making a spirited run on the parkway should spin that gear right.
And this could be why my 60 ft times were way off and the only reason why the car was faster is because after it got rolling it was Good. So many things which I guess will be sorted out eventually. I’m just glad I checked the timing. I did have Blair put a gear on for me because of the roller cam so it’s not like the pin is old. I don’t know we will see after the ride.
Then I was thinking 4 degrees of timing has got to be worth 20 horsepower.

[Stangman]

Well I’ve been out of commission the last few days got the covid  crap. Not bad but still enough to keep me out of my car. Well I did finally go for a ride and it definetly has much more throttle response. It’s not the same as being on the track but it feels like it use to. I’m not gonna be able to get to the track but I think I’m on the right track.

[Jim Comet]

Is your timing locked out? Mine is on my Comet. While chasing my tail tuning my BP motor Blair said I should check my timing at 3000 and sure enough there was a 4 degree (retard) difference compared to checking it at idle (1000rpm). Not sure why or what is doing that but it is repeatable and consistent. I have checked with 3 different timing lights to verify this. Jim

[Stangman]

Timing is not locked I was under the assumption that it was 18 initial and 16 in the dizzy. I gave him the dizzy with the 18 degree bushing. I can’t remember if that’s the biggest one or in this case the biggest for the least amount of degrees. He was talking about my timing could be off because of the difference between my MSD box and his, it confused me a little because I just figure timing is timing. Regardless it’s good now as a matter of fact I’m gonna put my original squirted in also. We talked a lot about timing including putting as much initial as it could stand and lower what’s in distributor. But we were just throwing stuff around. Just found out from a buddy of mine that a few tracks are gonna be open till thanksgiving. I want to save for a converter but would like to get to the track and see what 4 degrees does.

[6667fan]

Joe, I don’t know if there were different boxes between the dyno cell and your car but 7 series boxes automatically pull 4 degrees of timing out.

At the track I aim for fuel levels 2/3 of the way up in the sight glass. That was a suggestion from someone who worked for Quick Fuel and knew my carbs were destined for an FE “ backwards” application. However, Barry’s tip has me thinking that the next time I’m in the carbs I will check the parallel float rule against the 2/3 sight glass rule and see if the floats are in a similar location.