I had the same issue when I went to an aluminum intake. I just used the least expensive 1/2 inch one I could find and made sure the gaskets sealed completely. Worked great.

Thx again everyone.
So I made it to the drags Saturday in Albuquerque. Only got 4 runs in though - it got super crowded toward the end of the day and I needed to tow the car 90 miles home so I didn't stick around.

The first run I stayed out of the water burnout puddle. It ran the best time, 14.36 at 99mph. I think my 60 foot time was 2.26. I was really happy with that because in the spring my fastest time was 15.1. Plus I had forgotten to lower my tire pressure and I spun a little too much.

The second run I rolled through the water and then did a burnout. At the start my tires spun like crazy and didn't hook up. Got a MAJOR axle wrap as it started to grab so I let off the pedal. I didn't want to break the perches where we just welded the trac bars on. Man was it violent! Passenger visor flipped down and the glove box popped open - stuff was flying everywhere. (I had to laugh)

Then I ran into an old friend (Benito Jacquez) who is a life long dragster man. He told me with the tread tires you want to stay out of the water. Water gets trapped in the tread and screws up the traction.

The 3rd run I paid more attention to feel than to shifting at rpm's, and I noticed I wasn't pulling very much after 4700 rpm. It also missed a little and ran a 14.9.

The last run I shifted by feel at about 4500 rpm and ran a 14.5. My start was slow, about 2.6 at 60 feet. A guy was telling me that my setup is probably better in the lower torque range rpm's. I think he's right, but it'll take a lot more practice runs. I moved the timing around a tad each run, but it didn't seem to make any difference. But it felt best at 14 degrees.

Anyway, I think a good driver could get a 14.1 out of it. Thus, I will keep practicing. 14.3 at a mile high is about a 13.3 at sea level. I'm happy with that from a 3800 pound 4 speed car. It was a blast and there were some really nice cars out there.

So really, a few of you who in other links told me you thought my set up could do anywhere from 12.5 to 13.5 were pretty close. Just have to factor in a full second for altitude.

Thx again to everyone!   

This is a little late, but here's a link to my online pictures with a short video of what my detroit locker sounds like.
https://plus.google.com/photos/101492851059660555641/albums/6080598926397531985?banner=pwa

thx again everyone.

Dave J

Wade, thx a ton! The explanation on the timing helps a rookie like me a lot.

The video/audio has put my mind at ease, that's about what mine sounds like too. I'll try to do the same kind of video with my camera. Hopefully by this time tomorrow.

regards, Dave 

Thx everyone, that helps alot.
I've messed with the "all in timing" and I think I had it at approximately 2500rpm. I think it maxed out at 36ish. I'll check it again now that I'm running ~13-14 advance. I was mostly curious why it would change with the Edel heads verses the rebuilt C4AE's with the cobra jet size intake and exhaust valves. I think the builder just wanted to make sure I didn't exceed 38 total.

This rearend isn't a little noisy, it's NOISY, but only on turns - it's quiet running straight. My car is a rat kind of build with the cheapest 18 inch glasspacks I could find, thus the car is loud. Maybe it's partially because I have no carpet in the car, just metal floors. I don't mind the noise, I'm just concerned that the fluid might be low, or something is wrong with it. When I drilled the fill plug I had the pumpkin upside down with the yoke facing straight up. I used a super strong mini magnet to pull all the shavings out both while drilling and tapping. Then I rinsed it while it was still upside down with carb cleaner. That way anything that was in it flowed down with gravity. After installing it I filled it with gear oil and ran to about 20 miles. Then I changed it out again. I like the idea of filling it thru the vent tube. I read somewhere that 5 pints is good.

Bud, it's running really well right now with the Edelbrock manual's #22 setting metering rods. I like it because it's fairly idiot proof. I'll be in Albuquerque a week from today at the drag strip for the last test tune day of this season. If you're around come out and find me. I'll be there from 11ish, to 1:30 or so.

thx again to all!

Dave J

Those Caltracs look great, but I think I'll go with a set of slapper bars for now. From the Caltrac web site it looks like they can make them to order too.

thx, Dave

Thx gents, good info to know being that I have zero experience with traction bars.
Bud, are the ones you're talking about like these? http://www.laurelmountainmustang.com/products/1967-70-traction-bars-under-ride-1pr?gclid=CJyIqoifk8ECFe0-Mgod7VcAWw
I like the idea of them helping handling, this old bird is quite shaky. I've got a buddy with a welder that can help me install them. I'm having my local mechanic replace all the front end bushings next week, that should firm it up a bit. I tried replacing them myself but I'd need a press of some kind to get those things apart. I was going to go to a beefier front coil spring, but since "adding lightness" with the aluminum intake, heads, and removing the bumper, I've dropped about 180 pounds off the front. 

Dave J   

I was wondering if anyone has advice on the best tire size for drag racing my Rat T-bird. Or perhaps a link to some info.

I'm guessing it'll all depend on a lot of factors so I'll reiterate what I have. It's a 3650 pound 59 T-bird with a 410 bored .030 over. Edelbrock 750 carb on an Edel RPM Performer intake with Edel RPM Performer heads. Has FPA headers, Lunati's version of the Cobra Jet cam. Pertronix ignitor instead of points. Detroit locker 4.00 rearend with a wide ratio 4 speed toploader. CenterForce dual friction clutch.

Redline is ~6000rpm. No dyno info but it should be about 400-410hp with about 450-460 torque. Timing is all in at about 2800-3000rpm. I don't know where the optimal power band is in the rpm range, but it feels like it pulls the best right around 4000 - 4800 rpm.

The reason I ask is because I currently have 8 inch wide, 28.5 inch diameter old school cheater slicks - they're mostly for show, but they do hookup pretty well with the Detroit locker. If I put on some highway tires on that are 6 inch wide, 26 inch diameter it seems to be jumpier, or at least more responsive to the go pedal. However those things spin way too much. It's a street/occasional strip car. I'm thinking it would be faster in the quarter with a smaller diameter tire.

thx in advance, DAve J