Hello all, I am working on some original Shelby engines and am wondering what is the 2021 oil of choice?
The engines in question are stored in a climate controlled building, driven on a somewhat regular occasion, but otherwise sit on display.
GT350's
GT500's
Small block Cobra
Big block Cobra....pretty much the gamut of options from the era.

If you have any technical data to back up your oil of choice, even better.
Thanks and have a great day.

I would check the headlight relay under the hood.
It should be in a relay box somewhere on one of the inner fender wells.
We had a simular problem with a friends 300 I-6 about 20 years ago that traced to a bad-intermitic [spell ?]  bad relay.
Its worth a try and if that and the wiring checks out OK I would try a new headlight switch.
Greg

I will check this stuff this weekend. Easy enough to do.

A while ago I asked about some stumble issues with my 1989 F-150, 300ci-FI six engine, 5spd trans. Thanks to all for the help and insight.
I went through a bunch of tests and proved issues...and things did get better as parts were replaced, but winter also set in and the truck was basically not used since last year in early winter.

Now I am driving it again (actually a friend is using it for the time being)
Stuff that has been verified as problematic and fixed.

Spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor.
Ignition module on distributor. New ECM (this is the one part that may not have been bad)
A few gaskets like throttle body to intake and others in that area.
Cleaned IAC parts, cleaned throttle body.
New MAP sensor. New EGR control...not the valve but the control. EGR valve works.
Latest was the engine temp sender that talks to the PCM. It was very lazy and slow to react....and SUPER easy to replace too.....Oh and a new radiator, which was also easy on this truck.
In the process of all this stuff I have checked contacts, cleaned chassis grounds, cleaned and greased connectors, and other items like that....and it all looks very good to be honest.

I figured there would be some corrosion or gunk on a few of the connectors, but they look really great...I cleaned them and put them back together after checking.

Anyway, the truck is back to bucking, sputtering and generally running poorly on some occasions, but not always.
The bucking is hard and immediate, like an electrical issue. Think a kid flicking a light switch on and off, not like a fuel stumble or loss of power due to fuel issues.
It starts like it should, runs through the high idle/cold functions, idles down, and generally wants to run well. It has plenty of power, great comperssion on all cyinders (range is between 152-158psi between all six cylinders) and is getting good fuel economy.

Here is the new kicker I have found, and verified.
The headlights, or at least the headlight switch, can directly induce the stumble/bucking.

I have played around with this a bit, from just started cold to an hours worth of driving around full temp. From stop light to stop light driving, to crusing down the highway.
With the headlights on the engine acts up, and will continue acting up as long as the headlights are on.
With the headlights off there are NO issues...none. The engine runs and drives VERY well.

What might be happening here?

I am wondering if there is some internal wire harness wear, or chafing, causing a "leak" between less effective insulation. Not yet a short, but enough to cause this issue.
The other is a circuit failure. I don't know the circuits, but if there is a failed diode allowing two way flow, when it is supposed to only allow one way, it may be causing a feedback issue.

Thanks for any and all useful information.
This is a crappy, old, 150,000+ mile, rusty truck...but I still want it to run properly.

I like this one.  It uses the NTK sensor, not the Bosch sensor, which I've found last quite a bit longer.

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/2337

Jay, which of the NTK sensors are you using?
They range in price quite a bit according to the info on the website.
"Production grade" is a $50 upgrade.
"Calibration grade" is a $150 upgrade.
"Lab grade" is a $450 upgrade.

What I am looking for is the ability to set this thing on the seat, snake the wires to the O2 sensor, hook up the 12VDC, and drive around collecting tuning data. Tune, test, repeat as needed, then remove the whole thing when finished.

Thanks for the heads up on this unit.

Hello all.
I am in the market to replace my Innovate LM1 wideband tuner and would like to know what people think of any newer offerings.

The LM1 I had was getting 20+ years old, but it worked as it should.
This makes me pretty sure tech has altered these things over that time span.

I would like something simple, easy, and fairly direct, although useful features are not out of the question.

The way I use the tool is in temporary mode, as in not installed IN the car, but rather installed on any car I choose.
Hook up, tune, remove.

So whatchyagot? What is the new tool of choice for tuning carbs?
Thanks and have a great day.

I am using a wide ratio gearset in my 1966 Galaxie 7-LITRE.
Slightly tuned 428 (422HP/482TQ) 3.70:1 gears, Detroit Locker, 255/60/15 rear tires, C6 trans with a 2800ish stall converter.
The combo of weight, gear, and torque work very nicely with the wide ratio gearset.

I drove the car with this engine/gear combo with the standard C6 ratios and I really like the change to the wide ratio gearset.

If anything, you won't "ruin" your car by installing the wide ratio gearset.

Quote from: Stangman on March 28, 2021, 09:08:23 AM

Movies like this along with the little rascals and countless others our grandkids will never see. It’s a shame

I'm not so sure about that, given that many people are always drawn to "the forbidden", not to mention they'd see it play in my house. Never discount the rebellious streak that runs in the blood.

This holds a lot of water.
The Cancel Culture we must endure at this time is possibly informing a whole new generation about things that may have gone unnoticed otherwise.

No better way to give something attention than to declare, "Never look at this again." while ranting about why one should not look.

Is it just me or...   The entire car is covered with dust that could have easily been removed and cleaned up, so I assume the seller is trying to capitalize on the current "barn-find" craze.  Yet the 427 fender flags are perfectly clean!  What gives???

It is not just you.
This car has clearly received paint work...I mean there is overspray on at least one tire fer cryin out loud.
It displays all the signs of sitting in a so-so environment garage, as claimed.
It also displays a specific desire to use the dust and grime as some sort of badge of honor, when cleaning this car up would provide a MUCH better image of what is really there from all aspects.

I don't mind honest patina and dirtyness from enjoying the vehicle.
I do find it a bit offputting when the seller "dresses" the car in an attempt to provide something the car really does not have.

This is a neat car all on its own, and it does have a real world "been sitting waiting my turn" story....but it is not an original survivor, or genuine barn find, like they are trying to imply.

Now...who's up for an LS swap into the Mercury?