FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: Blueoval77 on December 20, 2021, 09:09:50 PM
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OK , so whats the consensus on starters ? Whos high torque starter has the best reputation here ? Also , has anyone tried a "Mean Green" starter ? Engine with moderate compression and headers . Will see a rough life I imagine...
Thanks !
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http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/fordat_starter.html
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http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/fordat_starter.html
+1 on the RobbMc starter. It cured my hard hot start issues that I had during Drag Weeks. I recently got a 2nd one just because it's such a good starter. I'd highly recommend the nose or "pinion" support option.
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I like the nice thick mounting plate cause I have to machine it back to accommodate my thick mid plate.
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I put a Powermaster XS starter in mine, that was 12 years ago.......never had any hot start issues after that.
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Maybe I am lucky, but I have never had any issues with the big ol` factory Ford starters. I had one in my 74 F350s 390 with Hedman headers, my 70 428 Mach 1 with Hooker headers, my 390/428 and 427 FE powered Fairmont drag car, and currently have one on my 59s 428 with FPA headers. I still have a new Powermaster XS Torque mini starter that I bought years ago, for when my old factory starters ever caused any problems, still waiting for that to happen.
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It looks like there is a weight advantage for the RobbMc. Does anyone know how much that would be?
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It looks like there is a weight advantage for the RobbMc. Does anyone know how much that would be?
I just weighed mine and it's 8.95 lbs with the pinion support. Not sure what a stock one weighs, and I can't make it to the garage right now.
Rory, I never had a problem with factory starters either, but the long trips on DW combined with the cramped engine compartment of my Mustang, along with headers that have no option but to tuck up against the starter, not to mention warm/hot days, all combined to give me issues. The starters started out fine, but the heat took its toll after making several hundred mile jaunts. I tried shielding the starters, but it just didn't work. I went through 3 of them when I decided to try the RobbMc. Not an issue since. Never had an issue on my other vehicles.
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But do they make a robby mc robbface starter for my boaty mcboatface boat?
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for just a decent stock starter i have had good luck at napa.i actually got a correct part number for a 428.has lasted many years with headers on the street,BUT,in a race or serious street power situation,i would go with the RobbMc. my dad put one on his fairlane 10 years ago and he dont worry at all anymore.
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Yeah this car is headed to drag week as well and I just cant roll the dice with the stocker. Also , the man is correct when he mentions headers . I have to embark on a building a stainless set for this car and the more room you have the better off you are. Talked to REF today and it looks like its 5K for them to do a mustang set... They make nice headers and im sorry if I piss someone off , but they just arent that nice....Especially when you are considering buying them because you would like to be lazy and buy instead of build. That price tag puts some energy back into you.
The Dougs headers I used to run had the removable cross over tube that helped a ton with taking off the starter but a basket of snakes it did create in doing so.
I like the stockers but I swear ive never had good luck with them hotlapping with a engine that has a bunch of timing in it. Small block or big block.
Thanks for your experiences guys.
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for just a decent stock starter i have had good luck at napa.i actually got a correct part number for a 428.has lasted many years with headers on the street,BUT,in a race or serious street power situation,i would go with the RobbMc. my dad put one on his fairlane 10 years ago and he dont worry at all anymore.
Is there actually a difference? If so I would be interested in that part number.
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Powermaster 9606, 4 years on a stroker no issues, thing seems to be a beast.
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I got a 'mean green' starter for a project some years ago. Very nice piece. But even with the clocking feature, it was impossible for it to fit with any of the headers I had available for the dyno session due to interference with the block casting. In the end it was easier to leave the starter on the bench and use a loaner. The alternative would have been to whittle on the block casting.
KS
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I used a Tilton unit when I first built my SOHC around 1985. It was pricey (not a lot of choices then) but I never had a problem with it and it's still in use today. Randy M
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[/quote]I think it was 11001 and it had the date code on it too.
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Have anyone had luck with using a heat shield on a stock starter? Many types available btw.
Having a hot restart issue here in sunny Florida and have thought to add a heat shield. Have coated headers on the car and that really cuts down on under hood heat. Yet I need more and hope adding a shield will help. Thoughts from users?
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i tried an alu heat shield years ago,it worked but it was hard to get on with the headers,i also tried wrapping the starter.it worked but the wrap deteriorated over time.
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i tried an alu heat shield years ago,it was hard to get on with the headers,i also tried wrapping the starter.it worked but it deteriorated over time.
Thanks!
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i should have known better than to brag on the napa starter that i have that lasted for years.when i hit my starter button i hear a weird thump before it starts cranking.whats odd about it is it dont sound like the normal starter clanking noise,like when it kicks out or hits too hard.it almost sounds like a compression noise like the engine tried to start for a split second before it starts cranking.other than that it starts rite up. any ideas,also i had to tighten my drivers side motor mount,it must have vibrated loose or i didnt have it tight enough.i dont know if that had anything to do with it or not.
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I ran a hi torque factory Ford starter four four years until it failed. I purchased a power master hi torque factory style starter to replace it. The first one had the snout machined incorrectly and made contact with the flywheel. The second unit had the bendix stick and damaged the flywheel ring gear.
I returned the second starter directly to Power Master in Chicago at my cost less than three months later.
They called and asked about the compression of my engine. it's about 10.3:1. Immediately they blamed the compression ratio as the issue with the starter.
No information on the website about the started being rated for 10:1 and lower. Most OE FE engines are 10.5 or more. Why the hell would you need a high torque starter for an engine with less than 10:1?
They offered no compensation for the bendix damage to the ring gear, labor to drop the transmission or having to change the starter twice and return it to Summit Racing. They now want me to purchase their high dollar mini starter with a credit of 100.00 for the bad bendix unit and pay the difference of 171.00 and return shipping of 25.00. '
Needless to say their won't be another power master.