What a bummer.
If you're free I'm coming up there to figure out what's going on with your starting issues in the Shelby. I've never seen TWO bad EMS-pros but it's possible I guess? (Jay has a spare that also won't work). Meanwhile, both EMS's did work when the engine was last dyno'd, yes? I am wondering if there's a flaw in the EMS-pro wiring harness in the car. The EMS just isn't getting the same signal seen down at the sensor with an oscilloscope...
Scott, I am free and would love to have you come up for the weekend to help figure out what is going on. I would be the first one to point a finger at the wiring harness in the car, except that it hasn't changed from last year, and the car went down the track twice and also went down the road with this harness. Is it possible that there is a flaw in the wiring harness that could affect only the starting? Maybe its noisy, and that makes the car harder to start?
At the time I ran the engine on the dyno (last summer), I only had the one ems-pro. It did give me some issues, but on the dyno I was able to crank up the battery voltage by turning the battery charger on boost. This spun the engine faster and it seemed to start better like that; maybe it was just higher battery voltage? FYI after our calls yesterday I did check the voltage on the Tuner Studio dashboard during cranking, and it was about 11.5 volts with the starter spinning. That should be plenty of voltage based on our previous conversations.
Color me pretty confused on this one...
Check my email, my schedule this weekend just blew up thanks to the EMC / early Hemi guys deciding to.
But, I did do some testing late last night with an EDIS wheel and two different sensors on an EMS-pro I have here at home. I was able to log cranking RPM down to 35-40RPM with both a Hamlin and Cherry sensor (hall sensors, Cherry required a pullup), and using a Ford VR sensor I was able to get it down around 65rpm steady cranking, with the EMS-pro identifying cranking RPM without switching to Run mode. I use a variable speed Ryobi drill press to control RPM. This EMS has your specific modifications to the tach inputs, but it's got a dead injector driver (it was a warranty swap for a guy who miswired his fuel injectors). I don't think the dead driver portion of the board improves or hurts the tach input performance.
We've done similar testing with Huber and Bill Fowler in the past all with good results. There is something in your combo that I am missing / haven't figured out. But I will! There are way too many people using the exact same combination not having the same problem for it to be something other than software config or hardware. I can send you some of those guys' tunes if you want to load them and try them out? just to see if you get cranking RPMs.
-Scott