Total Control Engine Mounts

[Chrisss31]

I bought a set of TCP Engine mounts to bolt an FE into a 1966 Mustang.  Looking at things, with the mounts setting kind of neutral the driveline is going to want to be level.  Shouldn't I have a few degrees of angle in the driveline?  If I do that it's going be bearing on the rubber bushings all of the time.  Any words of wisdom??

[HvyFt4spd]

 Do have an angle finder/protractor? Dial it in where at ride height the carb pad is level. Then adjust vs pinion angle... See how bad it is as you want the mount as close to nuetral as possible. A little tweak won't matter as the weight of the engine/trans is going to compress/distort the mount slightly anyway. You still want it close if can't make it perfect as a twisted mount makes removing and installing the driveline more difficult.

  I've never found any one of those type of kits that account for this out of the box properly. I just make own most of the time but on a customer supplied set you can usually shim your way there. If not you'll be into modifing or returning the set up.

[machoneman]

Until you add the tranny, dump both into the car and add the tranny mount, you won't really know the engine's angle.

I bought a set of TCP Engine mounts to bolt an FE into a 1966 Mustang.  Looking at things, with the mounts setting kind of neutral the driveline is going to want to be level.  Shouldn't I have a few degrees of angle in the driveline?  If I do that it's going be bearing on the rubber bushings all of the time.  Any words of wisdom??

[Chrisss31]

I have the block and transmission in the car.  I measured the angle by putting the angle finder on a strait edge set on top of the block, starting with the rockers level.  I guess about 2 degrees is the goal, that's kind of average from all the stuff I've read.  I have the front suspension on the car, now I'm working on the block and trans, I won't have the rear suspension in until I get it off the rotisserie so I'm not able to see where the carb pad is for level.  I'm probably going  to end up cutting up the mounts and welding them back together with the angle figured in, unless you guys think that's a mistake....

[HvyFt4spd]

   If you insist on using the rotisserie simply indicate carb angle of the intake you will use vs a level surface. Now tip the block/trans from level in the opposite direction that number.
 You must account for the rake of the chassis at ride height. Other things that come into play is that your engine mounts compress more than the transmission mount does which changes the final angle. Being on the rotisserie also affects the way the car is loaded which needs to be accounted for. Other than owning a chassis jig it's hard to beat mockup on a level floor.

 

[Chrisss31]

That's the tough nut...it would be better if the car were on the ground but it's not.  The suspension will be all new/different from stock as will the ride height and rake.  Maybe the best approach will be to rig up some mounts temporarily until I get the car back on the ground.

[HvyFt4spd]

 Let's see if this posts

   While an extreme case this is what happens when you build a car on a rotisserie.

[Chrisss31]

Hahaha, nothing like that!!  The cutting has been minimal and I blocked up the frame rails when I cut stuff out.  I've only done one thing at a time and welded back what was taken out before moving onto the next piece.  Other than notching out the shock towers and changing one front frame extension/floor support I haven't had to cut too much out, I also added the front convertible torque boxes too.  I've done a lot of measuring and checking along the way so I'm not worried about it being crooked.