Hello Jim
It is not fun to pay good money for machine work that is way off
Now, people run all kind of parts and combos and so on and this run out is going to work, but there is no way I would run it in any race car, or really, on a hot street set up, unless, you have to make some cruise or deadline or so on, and can fix it later
Granted, as the disc seats,it will point load and try to knock down the high spot slowly, but it will elevate the friction and wear on the egged portion that contacts the high spot first
The chatter will happen, and you may feel it, I have felt chatter with less run out
The cost that concerns me it pulsing the cranks thrust bearing unnecessarily
And the chatter, will try to wiggle the crank forward and back for no good reason, and the same pulses will try to wiggle or distort the pilot bushing or bearing
This same run out will wear the front bearing in the trans a little faster too
Here is what I suspect
The machinist simply set your flywheel on a big belt sanding style surfacer, not, a true flywheel surfacer. There is a universal surfacer in use out there that is really not famous for precision results. If this shop has a belt sander, with a belt about 3 feet wide, and the working area is about 4 feet long, that is your problem.
I have seen guys take a wheel to a few shops, that use the wide belt sander, and those things mess up a lot of parts. I have seen 'finished' heads, warped, intakes and so on, tapered, and flywheels re surfaced to actually have a wedge ground in to them.
It has to do with how you set the part on the belt, or, pull it off. Also, there is no uniform down feed in case the part has hard and soft spots. Flywheels, used, have MANY hard and soft spots.
I suspect that whatever machine was used, took much more off of the soft areas while dressing the hard areas slower, thus less
I have never seen a real Blanchard grinder, or overhead surface grinder do this
I usually have the guys take our flywheels to McCleod because they are close by, or, 2 other places
What works for us, is the machine that holds the flywheel by clamping, or a magnetic table, then slowly spins it.
Above, is a hardened fine grinding stone, that has coolant fed down, so the flywheel turns as the grinder traverses the part evenly
If the flange is true, the wheel will run out less than 001
Now this has happened in the past
Check the flange not just for run out, but burrs
My crank guys are good, they take a truing pass on the flange, just kiss it and listen
But if it runs out 000, check this
Take a flat stone, like an Ozark Stone, or, a fine knife sharpening stone.....
I use a flat stone that never gets used for a knife or scissors, because that use makes them a lot less flat. So, spray the flange with WD40 or equivalent, then patiently and evenly stone your way around the crank flange
Look and feel the stone and look for any burrs that become shiny and bright around the threads
Depending on who did what on prior disassembly/assembly, handling,,,,,a small burr on the flange can actually kick the wheel, to run out 3,4,5 thou
I have stoned a crank, not done by us or off of a racer or project, unknown origin stuff, and fixed this a little
I recall having to stone a flange 3 or 4 times to get it true years back
If you feel no burrs, see no burrs, I'd bring the wheel to a shop that has a true or good surfacer
A worn machine in any machine shop can yield bad tolerances too
Seen very pretty, shiny, well painted machines give poor tolerances due to worn ways, a bad bushing and so on
Really sorry you have to deal with this but it is not your fault
If it is worth doing, it is worth doing right
017 is a lot of run out
Personally and with all due respect, no offense intended at all, and in kindness , I don't like it
Most big machine shops, including those for Diesel trucks, have the correct machine
And for the new guys
Places like McCleod and others do another cool thing on a used wheel
They press off that starter ring for you
Old school was to reverse it, press it back on and wear the fresh teeth like the older ones
Cooler yet is to press a brand new one on. Fair price there is low, 30 or so bucks around here, for a good guy deal
Again, I am sure guys have run more, maybe a lot more, it just depends how long you want to run it and well you want it to perform and live
If we had to make the next round at the drags, and this popped up? Slam it all back together and make the next round, fix it after the race
best of luck
Sorry but I just don't accept specs that far out of tolerance
Too easy to fix or do right to begin with
McCleod and others will do a nice surface job by mail too
PS I was very reluctant to write this, not being a negatron or fussy,,,just never run more than about 001 to 0015, and many are just dead nuts,,,,,,000 0
Now last thought make dead sure the crank end play it not throwing your number off?
Load the crank forward or back and re check maybe
