FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: jayb on December 15, 2016, 09:35:00 AM
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At the PRI show I spoke with at least 5 people who mentioned that they had been trying to get some of the Blue Thunder cast aluminum pentroof valve covers for quite some time, but they were simply unavailable. I have been thinking about another casting project, and thought that some valve covers similar to the Blue Thunder parts might be a good candidate. I'm looking for some feedback from the forum to see if there is sufficient interest for me to start a project like this. Please respond to the poll above if you might be interested in a set of these valve covers. The valve covers would not have any lettering or markings on them, they would either be plain sand cast valve covers, or the same but with machined fins on the top, kind of like a factory 428CJ valve cover but in the pentroof style.
Also, since I would be CNC machining these myself, I could make options available for different types of oil filler openings if desired, and also machine them with a notch to fit the master cylinder where it may interfere on some vehicles.
This would a pretty quick project, I think, so if I decide to proceed I would probably have the valve covers available in April.
Any comments or suggestions on what to build, or features of the valve covers, are welcome. Thanks, Jay
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If you do them, I'd make provisions for a screw in fitting like the BT covers. They are stupid easy to adapt fittings for vacuum pumps, gauges, etc.
I could have sold a bunch of those covers this year, but they are impossible to get at times.
Go for it, Jay!
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Thanks Brent, I was thinking about the screw-in option. I don't know the thread size; is it a standard AN fitting, like a #12 or a #16? Or is it something different?
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Excellent. ;)
Even more Kool parts.
I like cutting the fins off the old finned alum covers after they age for about
20 years on a car. ;) Bet ya I could sell 100 set's tomorrow.
I bet you could sell a palate full off them cast and machined no problem Jay.
The problem is you have to do about 20 palates to start making some money. :P
Then you have to start thinking about hiring someone to feed the machine.
Then you got work mans comp and OHSA and so on.
If you want to leave a mark.
Cast the block. Even if you just do a 100 and break even it will make a difference.
China makes lots of valve covers.
Just thinking out loud Jay.
All the best.
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Their screw-in plug is a straight thread with an o-ring. Their breathers use the same thread, oil caps, etc., so it's very easy to interchange from one to the other.
When I use a vac pump, I'll take one of their blank plugs, put it in a lathe, and drill/tap it for a 1/2" NPT, then screw an AN fitting into it. On the opposite side, I'll drill/tap a blank plug for a 1/4" NPT and screw my gauge in there. The o-rings on the plugs seal the plugs off really well.
Don't have one in front of me, but the thread of the screw-in caps/breathers are probably somewhere around 1-1/4"-1-1/2".
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(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u267/shellvalleyowner/photo20_zpstjflsatb.jpg)
(http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u267/shellvalleyowner/photo24_zpsn8s76k1b.jpg)
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I've been trolling around looking for the finned ones for a couple years now. I also want a plain set so I can sand down and do a very quality chrome job on them. I hate how wavy the sheetmetal ones are. I'd buy a set of each if you produce them.
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Those H/M valve covers in Brent's picture are very FE looking and without the H/M logo, they would be great looking on any vehicle with a FE.
On edit, Jay a valve cover like the CJ but with a .300-.400 taller top to fit over the roller rocker arms from T&D, Jessel, HS, etc. would be very cool. Joe-JDC
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Jay: I think that most know I collect FE valve Covers. My favorites are the Merc Lightning Bolt and the Weiand Pentroof. The Weiand's are the tallest of all I have and clear any rocker assembly I've seen. I don't have a pair of the BT's to compare. I'd buy a set of the VC's without any breathers/knockouts since my intakes have a fill tube and rear PVC provision.
Would your CNC program be somewhat capable of carving the Mercury script and Lightning bolt?
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The CNC machine can carve anything you want, it just takes more machine time ($). But I don't think it would be to expensive to do the Mercury script and lighting bolt, maybe an additional $25 or so.
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Would be really slick to have the plain cast with a milled 427 Eagle/Flag like the factory decal, or a relief that the factory style decal would fit in.
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In the 80s i milled away the weiand logo and
mounted the 390 Eagle/fenderbadges on a pair
of Valvecovers.I think i have them somewhere
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FE roadster beat me to the Merc lightning bolt covers, I would go for a set or a plain no holes cast cover I could polish. My kids bugging me to polish the BTs on my 56 f100, so,,,,,
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Surprised you don't have a set with a lexan opening/window for your dyno mule Jay. Charlie Wescott had valve covers with windows on his Super Stock HEMI's to watch the valvetrain. You would know if you had a broken spring, or rocker before pulling a cover.
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I would take a plain pentroof
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I've got a set of the BT Pentroof covers that are like the large competition ones but they are closed. I think they are freakin awesome.
I've been dying to cast some covers myself, but honestly end up with too much stuff going on when I'm at home.
If I had one wish for a new cast cover (pentroofs are technically available)
I would love a baldie cover like the early 60's ones. Make an option for Thunderbird or FORD letters on them or just plain to be painted the proper color or polished.
In the restoration of early 60's FE's the only baldie option is with sheet metal covers that are considerably less durable and more leak prone than a nice firm cast cover.
that is my 2cents.
(Jay, just buy Blue Thunder and get it over with.....)
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How about contacting Art to see if you can purchase Blue Thunder in its entirety?
Ooopsss. I see Drew beat me to it. Sick minds think alike. Think alike, too, Jay. I command you.
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I'd be down for a few pairs. Please make available caps and breathers too. 8)
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Would be really slick to have the plain cast with a milled 427 Eagle/Flag like the factory decal, or a relief that the factory style decal would fit in.
Not exactly what you said (I think), but close. You can request your own cu in numbers. Also in black at 50 bucks less. This is Ansen, btw. Made in Kali not Chinky.
www.ebay.com/itm/232113095832 http://ansenusa.com/
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Jay: I think that most know I collect FE valve Covers. My favorites are the Merc Lightning Bolt and the Weiand Pentroof. The Weiand's are the tallest of all I have and clear any rocker assembly I've seen. I don't have a pair of the BT's to compare. I'd buy a set of the VC's without any breathers/knockouts since my intakes have a fill tube and rear PVC provision.
Would your CNC program be somewhat capable of carving the Mercury script and Lightning bolt?
Weind's with the fins cut off. My fav. ;)
(https://s5.postimg.org/lnzarkx6f/DSCN1251.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/yfdgy36yb/)upload pic (https://postimage.org/)
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cast pentroofs would look a lot better then the chrome ones I have on
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff267/new_falcon_owner/falcon/007_9.jpg)
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Don't need any at the moment but my 1.5c (Australian currency) anyway. Pentroof plain for me. But as suggested before if you had plain and offered a number of pre-programmed engraved scripts (Mercury, Thunderbird, Power by Ford, Bird flag with any displacement etc.) that would be really cool and something that's not out there.
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Do it Jay , more fe parts is a good thing , maybe blocks next ? ?
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I've always liked those Howie.
These are the BT ones I mentioned earlier. No clearance issues, but closed for the early Ford pcv.
(http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i6/DeepRootsNursery/445/IMG_1624_zpsz4ttekxl.jpg)
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I just took delivery yesterday of a set from DSC. I did look for a long time and he released a set. There is also an ebay vendor with a couple sets of each type of BT now, for those with immediate needs. Seeing as it took me a year to find them a new source is needed, go for it. I would take a set with Mercury script and lightning bolt.
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Jay: if you need a pair for a pattern, I've got 5 sets of stocker script Mercs. and the custom set. Could send you a pair.
You would want to do the 1966 version since they have clearance for the PB booster. 1965's don't.
Richard >>> FERoadster
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Jay, I haven't voted because I'm not sure any of them would fit under my power brake booster (I have a real clearance issue there), but the real question is why dick around with valve covers. You wrote the book on intakes, you have more or less made one, why not make a really good intake?
BTW I'm running some Ansen polished 428 short covers that clear, but I had to cut back the baffle mounts to clear the T&D rockers. In general the quality of the Ansen product is unimpressive - lots of crackle on the underside and some large flakes that make me a little nervous.
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In general the quality of the Ansen product is unimpressive - lots of crackle on the underside and some large flakes that make me a little nervous.
The crackles, as you called them, went away many years ago. I have at least 10 sets of Ansens that have been made within the last dozen years, and all are smooth underneath. I also have vintage sets that have zero integrity issues. I do not understand why you are "nervous". It's not like a valve cover is going to fracture, shear off your brake booster, catapult you into the back of a semi and decap you. If the molecular structure of an engine accessory causes you distress, please stay parked.
No fake news, please. Thank you.
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People really use brake boosters?
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Jay: if you need a pair for a pattern, I've got 5 sets of stocker script Mercs. and the custom set. Could send you a pair.
You would want to do the 1966 version since they have clearance for the PB booster. 1965's don't.
Richard >>> FERoadster
Richard, I will PM you on that. I'd like to see one of the '66 versions in person...
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Somebody needs to make some covers......I've been searching high and low for A WHILE for good covers. On several occasions, we've gone billet when we otherwise would have/could have used a nice cast cover.
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(Jay, just buy Blue Thunder and get it over with.....)
Well, they do a lot of other parts besides FE stuff, and I have my own plan for heads and intakes, that wouldn't really mesh with what Blue Thunder makes. So that's not really a good option for me. Besides, I don't think they're for sale ;D ;D
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Do it Jay , more fe parts is a good thing , maybe blocks next ? ?
By my estimate tooling and an initial run of blocks would be about a $150K proposition. I'm not ready for that. The block manufacturer I was talking to, mentioned in that other thread from a few months ago, has not been moving forward very fast either. So, I'm not confident that his new blocks are coming anytime soon. I am working hard on the heads and intakes though...
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Jay, I haven't voted because I'm not sure any of them would fit under my power brake booster (I have a real clearance issue there), but the real question is why dick around with valve covers. You wrote the book on intakes, you have more or less made one, why not make a really good intake?
I am working on some new FE heads and matching intakes, but the design and testing process takes quite a while on that sort of thing. By comparison, valve covers are easy. By the way, I would hope to put enough meat in the rear area of the valve cover to be able to machine them to fit under any brake booster. Do you have a picture of your clearance at the back of the valve cover? I have a Mustang and a Torino here for clearance measurements, but not a pickup...
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On edit, Jay a valve cover like the CJ but with a .300-.400 taller top to fit over the roller rocker arms from T&D, Jessel, HS, etc. would be very cool. Joe-JDC
Just an FYI, I'm not sure about the others, but I have used HS rockers multiple times with factory CJ covers and they clear fine if you remove the baffle. Of course that was with cams with no more than probably .600 lift.
I agree that valve covers are needed. But one suggestion I'd make that I haven't seen mentioned is the need for the lip around the gasket sealing flange. I've tried using a set of the common cheap billets with the flat sealing surface and they SUCK. Even if you try and glue the gasket in place, they want to squirm around and push out. Just something to consider.
I also can't say I'm a huge fan of the pentroof design because of the difficulty it makes with shock tower cars in changing plugs (although that's what I voted for since it was the only option). But I suppose pulling them off wouldn't be that big an issue. Still, that extra tall space just isn't needed on the valve side. If it were angled down a bit, it would be much more user friendly...at the cost of being a little less "FE" in appearance.
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That's a good suggestion on the valve cover lip, I will keep that in mind...
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Jay and I talked about valve covers on the way to PRI, I'm glad he's enthused about it. I will say I like the couple suggestions mentioned here for a "Baldie" style rounded top cast valve cover ( in addition to a pent roof style ), that's one I hadn't thought of, but it would be a unique product no one else offers. As someone who has to deal with the towering Shelby pent roof valve covers on a shock tower car ( where you just have to have faith your spark plugs exist, since you can't actually see them ), I agree with Doug, something else in design might be practical.
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Do it Jay , more fe parts is a good thing , maybe blocks next ? ?
By my estimate tooling and an initial run of blocks would be about a $150K proposition. I'm not ready for that. The block manufacturer I was talking to, mentioned in that other thread from a few months ago, has not been moving forward very fast either. So, I'm not confident that his new blocks are coming anytime soon. I am working hard on the heads and intakes though...
I'll invest with you Jay. Just tell me how much and where do I sign.
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Jay and I talked about valve covers on the way to PRI, I'm glad he's enthused about it. I will say I like the couple suggestions mentioned here for a "Baldie" style rounded top cast valve cover ( in addition to a pent roof style ), that's one I hadn't thought of, but it would be a unique product no one else offers. As someone who has to deal with the towering Shelby pent roof valve covers on a shock tower car ( where you just have to have faith your spark plugs exist, since you can't actually see them ), I agree with Doug, something else in design might be practical.
My take on the shock tower issue is that you can buy new reproductions of the Cobra Jet style valve covers, and as far as I know they are readily available. I like those covers myself, especially polished, and of course they give you a lot more room in a shock tower car than the pentroofs. So I don't see a reason to cast those; if you are concerned about the clearance issues with the pent roofs, you can just get the CJ covers instead.
The idea of casting a baldy style cover is an interesting one, but I'm not sure the market is there for it. My first cut at this is that I would have to sell at least 50 sets of any valve cover to recoup the tooling costs, and its not clear to me that the baldies would sell that well...
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I would be in for Baldy's
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Sweet.... no one makes baldies, and although I love pentroof design for a post 65 fe, there is just something about the early baldie covers. I'd buy one set for sure. I know BenH and I talked about BT needing to do an early cover some time back. I'm sure 50 sets of those wouldn't be much of a problem at all to sell. Even easier if you could do "Ford" "thunderbird" or "Mercury" block letters like the originals. I especially love the early baldies when dealing with a 2x4 intake as they put the visual emphasis on the induction system.
"But one suggestion I'd make that I haven't seen mentioned is the need for the lip around the gasket sealing flange. I've tried using a set of the common cheap billets with the flat sealing surface and they SUCK"
Doug, can't you just use valve cover studs, install the gasket, than install the covers?
If Jay does a lip around the valve cover, different gaskets may be an issue as they are all a tiny bit different on the outer edge. He'd have to pick one gasket and machine for the lip. (I'd suggest the Edelbrock 1/4 thick gaskets).
Or Jay could make his own gasket for his own covers..... I'd LOVE a nice thick gasket that has that hard blue rubber on two sides and the steel inner sheet (like moroso does for transmission pans). They literally last forever.
Jay, why not start a for sale thread in the vendor area where we can vote if we are 100% sure we'd buy a particular type of valve cover. It might reduce the intimidation factor knowing you already have 30-40 people willing to buy stuff the minute it is ready.
-tall pentroof smooth, no holes
-tall pentroof finned
-baldie
Good luck,
Drew
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Personally, I think baldies are the best looking FE covers, and truest to the 427 image. They would require a taller design though, to clear high lift cams and adjustable rockers. At least I think so. They do seem to sell quickly whenever a nice pair comes up. It would require a little bit of R&D though to determine how well they would work and look with increased height. They also may not be to friendly for threaded holes. Maybe you should consider multiple designs ;D
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Drew, studs don't work well with shock tower cars with brake boosters and especially with tower braces.
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Drew, studs don't work well with shock tower cars with brake boosters and especially with tower braces.
Ahhhh thanks for clearing that up, I didn't think about that. I forget the plight of the shock tower people that want assist with the brakes. I get spoiled by my 63 galaxie and 76 f100.....
What do you consider high lift tho? My cam is .600 lift with POP rocker stands/endstands and there is plenty of room. I've seen a few racers that run tbird baldies with much bigger cams and no issue. (white trash fairlane comes to mind)
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In general the quality of the Ansen product is unimpressive - lots of crackle on the underside and some large flakes that make me a little nervous.
The crackles, as you called them, went away many years ago. I have at least 10 sets of Ansens that have been made within the last dozen years, and all are smooth underneath. I also have vintage sets that have zero integrity issues. I do not understand why you are "nervous". It's not like a valve cover is going to fracture, shear off your brake booster, catapult you into the back of a semi and decap you. If the molecular structure of an engine accessory causes you distress, please stay parked.
No fake news, please. Thank you.
Afraid a flake will separate and fall into the valve train. You have quite an imagination. In any case, glad yours are fine, mine are less than ideal.
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Personally, I think baldies are the best looking FE covers, and truest to the 427 image. They would require a taller design though, to clear high lift cams and adjustable rockers. At least I think so. They do seem to sell quickly whenever a nice pair comes up. It would require a little bit of R&D though to determine how well they would work and look with increased height. They also may not be to friendly for threaded holes. Maybe you should consider multiple designs ;D
Multiple designs equals multiple casting patterns, equals multiple dollars ;D As initial cost estimates go, mine are usually a little low. It took me 125 intake adapter sales to recoup the cost of the tooling for those, and I still haven't recouped the cost of the tooling for the timing covers (although I'm close). I don't mind spending the money on the tooling if I know I can make it back, but the whole situation gets more complex because everyone seems to want something different. For example in this thread, the different suggestions for topside design or engraving on the valve covers. I love that kind of stuff, but it tends to muddy the waters from a payback perspective.
It looks like there is enough interest in the pentroofs for me to go forward. I will put together a list for the pentroof valve covers once I get firm quotes from the foundry and can estimate pricing and delivery time. When I start the list I will post about it here. At that time, I may consider the baldies, and will post a thread about that on this forum also.
Thanks to everyone who responded here, or participated in the poll, it is very helpful in determining whether or not I should proceed with this stuff - Jay
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Jay, I haven't voted because I'm not sure any of them would fit under my power brake booster (I have a real clearance issue there), but the real question is why dick around with valve covers. You wrote the book on intakes, you have more or less made one, why not make a really good intake?
I am working on some new FE heads and matching intakes, but the design and testing process takes quite a while on that sort of thing. By comparison, valve covers are easy. By the way, I would hope to put enough meat in the rear area of the valve cover to be able to machine them to fit under any brake booster. Do you have a picture of your clearance at the back of the valve cover? I have a Mustang and a Torino here for clearance measurements, but not a pickup...
After writing I was thinking that you are doing great stuff and all you get are people (like me) telling you what to do.
I've parked my truck in a friend's garage for the winter. I'll grab a picture next time I get down there.
The one think I do like about the Ansen covers is that they don't say anything. I've liked some other covers but they have 427, or Cobra on them and I don't have either. Just "Ford" or the venerable "Powered by Ford" would be nice.
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Sort of mimicking what Paul said, I am now using the "Cobra LeMans" version for valve covers because that's what I have and I need the room they provide. I would switch over to some quality plain pieces, or pieces that said simply "Ford" in a heartbeat. Sign me up.
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Baldy valve covers would be cool, but I don't know how well it would work if you tried to add a breather hole in them as there is no good flat surface to do it, and personally I think it would ruin the look. If you could do a baldy with no hole I would definitely be in for a couple of sets.
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Drew, studs don't work well with shock tower cars with brake boosters and especially with tower braces.
Ahhhh thanks for clearing that up, I didn't think about that. I forget the plight of the shock tower people that want assist with the brakes. I get spoiled by my 63 galaxie and 76 f100.....
What do you consider high lift tho? My cam is .600 lift with POP rocker stands/endstands and there is plenty of room. I've seen a few racers that run tbird baldies with much bigger cams and no issue. (white trash fairlane comes to mind)
The baldy covers have more room simply because of the shape, and no breather/baffle to worry about hitting.
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After writing I was thinking that you are doing great stuff and all you get are people (like me) telling you what to do.
The one think I do like about the Ansen covers is that they don't say anything. I've liked some other covers but they have 427, or Cobra on them and I don't have either. Just "Ford" or the venerable "Powered by Ford" would be nice.
Hey, it's the internet. Everybody has their opinion about the right thing is to do, and are not shy about saying it. It's all pretty much expected, and I'm not offended by it in the least. Some good ideas come from that stuff.
I also agree with you on the no-name issue. I would figure on casting or machining the FE Power logo on the underside of the valve covers, while leaving the top side blank (or machining in some specific markings as described earlier).
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Multiple designs equals multiple casting patterns, equals multiple dollars ;D
Yeah, but it's not my money, so... ;D
What do you consider high lift tho? My cam is .600 lift with POP rocker stands/endstands and there is plenty of room. I've seen a few racers that run tbird baldies with much bigger cams and no issue. (white trash fairlane comes to mind)
I honestly don't know how much lift those types of covers can handle with adjustables. I think the most I've ever ran with early covers and endstands was around .650. Much would depend on the end stand design, I'm sure.
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About the Valve cover gasket. I don't know if you have seen the
Valve cover on a Mercedes. A u- profile molded rubber gasket gasket
that you put over the edge of the cover. The edge goes straight down
so the gasket cant blow out. Not even on a old worn out Diesel that
blow your hat of if you open the oil filler cap with it running.
Stays in place, no leak never, Last as long as the rest of the car ,
I can post pictures of one if You are interested
Cant use it without change the lover edge of the cover some but doable
just some different machining
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I'd like to see it Heo.
this is the gasket I was talking about: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-93108/overview/
I lovem.
Hey, it's the internet. Everybody has their opinion about the right thing is to do, and are not shy about saying it. It's all pretty much expected, and I'm not offended by it in the least. Some good ideas come from that stuff.
More ideas=more better. That said, I *think* Jay knows that we all really appreciate his efforts in everything he's done, be it intake books, adapters, etc. (btw, I'm sure many of us still want to buy 1 or 2 clear valve covers).
I'm just excited about this, the biggest annoyance with building an FE is having an idea in your mind of the build and waiting years to collect the parts simply because of availability. Just try to buy a dozen 2x4 BT MR intakes and see what happens :) I don't know that I could handle explaining this to customers over and over, much credit to Brent/Blair/Barry et el.
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I go out in the garage an take some photos i have 500 v8 there
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my Baldies I run a 1/2 inch spacer to clear Dove end stands .... but everybody wants something different , lol .... I was wanting to be able to plumb my pan evacuation set up back again , I can't with the original Baldies without cutting and welding thin old metal yet still would like to run that set up
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Here you go drew The prifile of the gasket
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The valve cover
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Vc
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I'm kind of late to the discussion, but I am interested in valve covers myself, just like intake manifolds, I have a collection... sort of, but still looking for the "right" one, and have yet to find them LOL. I think there are a lot of (finned) pent roof cast covers out there available and new as well, just look on EBAY. I do agree that a plain cast doesn't seem to be available, so that would be more desirable than with fins.
I like the pent roof look, but sure don't like the super tall outer edge in a shock tower car. It just makes pulling plugs a pain, and is not needed for any clearance under/inside the cover for rockers etc. I am changing to a high riser top end soon and that makes the valve cover (angle) lay over even farther out and reduce the clearance to the tower even more, plus I will have a 3/8 spacer under the cover at the flange. I have notched my towers and do not run power brakes, so I have some room, but not as much as I would like (with pent roofs). Since I have a collection of valve covers I have had many on there, there is a difference. I even had one style on each side of my engine at one race and people thought I was crazy!!
I might be interested in a baldie version, but that doesn't sound like it will happen. Maybe we need a whole new design/shape... that has some of both maybe? i have seen a billet version, that was somewhat like a pent roof, only the outer edge was rounded more for more clearance. That would be a plus. For sure it needs to look like a FE cover and resemble the classic look, but maybe some tweak here and there would knock it out of the park.
I'll try to find a picture of the shape I was referring to. I appreciate your efforts Jay, I know it is hard to please everyone. Thanks for putting up with my goofy requests on the HR adapters I bought, they came out really nice.
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my stupidphone refuse to send the other pics Drew
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Cars milage 270000 kilometers no leak in 30 years
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Not that good pics but its like that trim that used to be put on the
edge of fibreglass parts. So the cover have a straight egde about 1/8"
thick 3/8 high with a ridge on top so you see that the gasket is bottomed
out stay in place with no glue
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In general the quality of the Ansen product is unimpressive - lots of crackle on the underside and some large flakes that make me a little nervous.
The crackles, as you called them, went away many years ago. I have at least 10 sets of Ansens that have been made within the last dozen years, and all are smooth underneath. I also have vintage sets that have zero integrity issues. I do not understand why you are "nervous". It's not like a valve cover is going to fracture, shear off your brake booster, catapult you into the back of a semi and decap you. If the molecular structure of an engine accessory causes you distress, please stay parked.
No fake news, please. Thank you.
Afraid a flake will separate and fall into the valve train. You have quite an imagination. In any case, glad yours are fine, mine are less than ideal.
Well, if you checked the link I posted you can get new valve covers that say "445" to match your foh-fohtty-fahv, with no flakeses. Or, you can shoot some quality epoxy paint or powder coat under your existing covers to inhibit catastrophic destruction of said engine. No need to spread misinformation about Ansen (you do know that company was sold several years ago to a more modernized outfit, which is why we are seeing many more styles and options now, right?).
As for my imagination, let me tell you a secret, Paul. Not a week goes by that I don't "rewrite" someone's post to make for a more entertaining read, of course taking liberties with reality. The most recent post was the one by Chris mentioning the reason for his hood scoop swap. Bam! Instant multi-paragraph scenario in my head. This is habit for me, as my somewhat zany writings used to have a train-wreck following on four continents in another time and place. The only thing that follows me now is the cat, when he wants his Jack'n'Coke freshened up.
Did you ever see Ken's somewhat dull story about his Galaxie several moons ago? That one I actually outlined on paper into a novella infused with low-key drama and intrigue, without losing sight of the car as the central theme. Well, bad guys are far more interesting than heroes, and I could have made Ken famous worldwide as a Detroit Desperado or such. But noooooo, he got his voluminous undershorts so tightly twisted over me that you could have towed a fishing trawler with it. On dry land. Legacy Lost, Sheffer.
Oh well. I'm not very PC, so I keep as mundane as I can, with the occasional slip-up. After the first of the year, I will be more boring (New Year's resolution) so I can maybe get a little feedback on certain aspects of the Stock Eliminator clone I'm fiddling with, which actually was a legal Stock Eliminator car way back.
Let's keep all this between us, OK? Don't tell anyone.
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Jay, I wasn't suggesting a re-pop of the CJ, but a taller version of the CJ to clear the T&D, Jessel, etc., and keep a breather splash shield in place. I really like the polished CJ/SCJ valve covers, also. They are the 428 CJ cover of choice for most people I know. The Ansen site makes the pentroof questionable for selling 50+ sets outside the FE forums. Joe-JDC
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In general the quality of the Ansen product is unimpressive - lots of crackle on the underside and some large flakes that make me a little nervous.
The crackles, as you called them, went away many years ago. I have at least 10 sets of Ansens that have been made within the last dozen years, and all are smooth underneath. I also have vintage sets that have zero integrity issues. I do not understand why you are "nervous". It's not like a valve cover is going to fracture, shear off your brake booster, catapult you into the back of a semi and decap you. If the molecular structure of an engine accessory causes you distress, please stay parked.
No fake news, please. Thank you.
Afraid a flake will separate and fall into the valve train. You have quite an imagination. In any case, glad yours are fine, mine are less than ideal.
Did you ever see Ken's somewhat dull story about his Galaxie several moons ago? That one I actually outlined on paper into a novella infused with low-key drama and intrigue, without losing sight of the car as the central theme. Well, bad guys are far more interesting than heroes, and I could have made Ken famous worldwide as a Detroit Desperado or such. But noooooo, he got his voluminous undershorts so tightly twisted over me that you could have towed a fishing trawler with it. On dry land. Legacy Lost, Sheffer.
I've run a pair of (I think) Cobra Le Mans covers I bought at Columbus with the fins milled off. To get an HD Dove rocker set-up to fit I had to do about ten minutes of work with a rotary file on the inside-ends and re-do the baffle under the oil-fill tube.
felony---
As an arrogant twit and would-be bully you often run your mouth---no, make that your typing finger---until everybody gets tired of it and tells you so. Then you go off in a snit for a while. It's about time for you to do it again.
Ken Sheffer
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Im with you on that Joe , i really like the 428 snake covers but too short .. if they were taller i would be running them . Right now is the time to launch em Jay , its the holiday season and we could buy our own gifts lol..
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felony---
As an arrogant twit and would-be bully you often run your mouth---no, make that your typing finger---until everybody gets tired of it and tells you so. Then you go off in a snit for a while. It's about time for you to do it again.
Ken Sheffer
A normal person would have wondered about the story I made. But not you. Probably too involved in that FE project you have going. Oh...wait...
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Gentlemen, gentlemen! A civil tone, please...
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Gentlemen might be a rather strong term to apply to FElony....but I like him that way 8)
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Gentlemen might be a rather strong term to apply to FElony....but I like him that way 8)
Yep. Jay was obviously talking to someone else, so I don't gots to be civil, whatever the heck that means.
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hey Doug Im with you on the baldie valve covers especially with our cars Im running harland sharps with 624 lift and Im not hitting covers. I do know that if I have no gaskets on my covers and I lay them on the head they still dont touch but I would assume its close
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I've got sets of Baldy VC's and some 406-427 round tops. I'll have to compare heights.
How would I measure clearance from stock adjustable rockers to round top VC? Clay and measure the remaining depth?
Richard >>> FERoadster
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BTW - make them and I will use them...several sets...
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No need to spread misinformation about Ansen (you do know that company was sold several years ago to a more modernized outfit, which is why we are seeing many more styles and options now, right?).
Sigh. To be clear, it is not misinformation if it is true. Glad yours are fine, mine are less so. Sorry to have triggered this highjack of Jay's thread.
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I'm with Thor on this , out of my little collection of VC's the baldies are hands down the easiest VC to pull plugs , to remove for valve adjustment , tighten header bolts and ect on my shock tower car 63 Lane , even with the 1/2 spacers it doesn't get any better than the Baldies for service .... the tall Cobra's require shock tower brace removal to get the VC's off the car and plug removal is a bit of a PIA with the cobras as you can't get your hand between the shock tower and VC
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No need to spread misinformation about Ansen (you do know that company was sold several years ago to a more modernized outfit, which is why we are seeing many more styles and options now, right?).
Sigh. To be clear, it is not misinformation if it is true.
But it isn't true. You stated the perceived compromise in casting integrity in the present tense, when that hasn't been the case for several years. Why would you want people to shy away from buying a new Ansen piece for a non-existent reason? Isn't the purpose of discussion forums to hone in on accuracy? Wouldn't it have been more reasonable to ask if Ansen was still using old production methods on current items, or even if anybody has ever seen chunks of old valve covers break off in use and get into the engine? You created the hijack with your statement, not me.
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My last post in this thread (hopefully). The four twenty-NINE Cobra Jet finned aluminum covers have not been reproduced (AFAIK), and I would ascertain the demand for those to be much higher than for any FE cover, at this point. I know you don't want to diversify, but profits from that part could help fund other endeavors. Just an idea.
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That's an interesting idea, but as far as I know, the 429CJ covers were die cast, not sand cast. Tooling for a die cast cover would be a good 10 times more than for a sand cast cover; probably can't afford that - Jay
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Just got back from wheeling' in the no phone zone so I missed the first 5 pages.
My vote goes to a BT style and paying' extra cash for the logo of our choice which in my case would be FE Power.
It kinda says what I want it to say.
The thunderbird logo is cool too.
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But it isn't true. You stated the perceived compromise in casting integrity in the present tense, when that hasn't been the case for several years. Why would you want people to shy away from buying a new Ansen piece for a non-existent reason? Isn't the purpose of discussion forums to hone in on accuracy? Wouldn't it have been more reasonable to ask if Ansen was still using old production methods on current items, or even if anybody has ever seen chunks of old valve covers break off in use and get into the engine? You created the hijack with your statement, not me.
Don't recall stating a perceived compromise in casting integrity. I did describe the product as being unimpressive, the present tense being appropriate since the product is still in my hands and still fails to impress. I don't understand why you are so indignant about the poor castings I have, but unfortunately it doesn't improve them, they are still unimpressive.
For someone with little to say you certainly use a lot of words. Since only the mad bark back at a dog I'll let this lie.
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That's an interesting idea, but as far as I know, the 429CJ covers were die cast, not sand cast. Tooling for a die cast cover would be a good 10 times more than for a sand cast cover; probably can't afford that - Jay
Jay.
There is a shop in my town that die cast aluminium parts. They make their own molds out
of graphite in a cnc mill.
They have borrowed old car parts from me to copy that cant be high
production items or high price each so.... you have NC machines so wort checking ma by
They have asked me for the address to company's that sell reproduction parts and they have
started to cast some repro parts so ma by they can cast the valvecovers for you
If you are interested i can give you the contact information. Or i Can ask him to contact you
they are just a 5 minutes drive from me and i know the owner very well
Some in this tread is asking for the baldy covers with Ford,Thunderbird, block letters
I think that cover would be possible to diecast then just polish and it will lock like the
OG chromed cover But you ma by are after the sand cast texture
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The 429 CJ aluminum valve covers were actually cast in Japan as far as I know. They were very thin and cracked easily around the bolt holes which is one reason they bring quite a bit of money today. But they do have one other drawback, they are fairly short and the rockers will hit the inside of the cover with only a small increase in cam lift - another reason why they were removed and usually replaced with M/T covers. So far no one has reproduced them, but if they did a small increase in height would make them much more useful.
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The 429 CJ aluminum valve covers were actually cast in Japan as far as I know. They were very thin and cracked easily around the bolt holes which is one reason they bring quite a bit of money today. But they do have one other drawback, they are fairly short and the rockers will hit the inside of the cover with only a small increase in cam lift - another reason why they were removed and usually replaced with M/T covers. So far no one has reproduced them, but if they did a small increase in height would make them much more useful.
Do you have any links about the Made in Japan thing? I would have thought they'd be produced where the FE and Cleve/Boss covers were made.
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No web links, something I was told years ago pre-dating this internet thing. The valve covers have a NPC or similar logo underneath.
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The statement:
"the 429 CJ aluminum valve covers were actually cast in Japan as far as I know. They were very thin and cracked easily around the bolt holes which is one reason they bring quite a bit of money today."
This thread just sent my butt out to check out one of the three pairs of 429CJ/429PI/429SCJ factory VC's I own. IF those covers are sand cast all I can say is the precision is awesome. They have small type-print raised part numbers inside and very intricate casting protuberances that locate the breather baffle and drip-rails. Seems to me IF they were sand cast they would not be a smooth as they are?...... Their inside surfaces are just as smooth as the outside's. That is some darn impressive casting. Odd I guess but none of mine are cracked - I always thought the 385 series cast VCs were far stronger than the factory BOSS 302/351C VC's that crack just by looking at them. If I recall (?) there were early/late BOSS 302/351C VC's with the later's being a bit less prone to cracking. There were an awful lot of "factory" BOSS 302/351C VC's that were available with all sorts of different designs on them*. I never collected or went after BOSS 302/351C VC's but I watched my cohorts go after them.
*I vaguely recall Cougars, Ford Motorsport, Pantera and Ford Industrial versions
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Since 429-460s were brought up.... As some of you probably know, valve cover options for the 385 series motor is rather limited, especially if you are wanting a vintage hotrod look. Something I'd like to see are some adapters to put BBC valve covers on a 460. I think they would be a good seller too. Then you could use some CalCustom or Offenhauser covers or anything that doesn't have Chebby wrote on it or a bowtie. I've heard of someone CNC milling a set and here is a pic of the motor. I know they are BBC covers but you have to admit it does look pretty good. :)
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The statement:
"the 429 CJ aluminum valve covers were actually cast in Japan as far as I know. They were very thin and cracked easily around the bolt holes which is one reason they bring quite a bit of money today."
This thread just sent my butt out to check out one of the three pairs of 429CJ/429PI/429SCJ factory VC's I own. IF those covers are sand cast all I can say is the precision is awesome. They have small type-print raised part numbers inside and very intricate casting protuberances that locate the breather baffle and drip-rails. Seems to me IF they were sand cast they would not be a smooth as they are?...... Their inside surfaces are just as smooth as the outside's. That is some darn impressive casting. Odd I guess but none of mine are cracked - I always thought the 385 series cast VCs were far stronger than the factory BOSS 302/351C VC's that crack just by looking at them. If I recall (?) there were early/late BOSS 302/351C VC's with the later's being a bit less prone to cracking. There were an awful lot of "factory" BOSS 302/351C VC's that were available with all sorts of different designs on them*. I never collected or went after BOSS 302/351C VC's but I watched my cohorts go after them.
*I vaguely recall Cougars, Ford Motorsport, Pantera and Ford Industrial versions
I just pulled mine off the shelf (one used set and one NOS) and here's what I found. There is a small round insignia in the center underneath with a diamond shape inside, with three segments in each side of the diamond. Inside the diamond there is "N.P.C.". There is a wall-to-wall screw-in steel baffle under the breather hole and a screw-in drip rail in a canted arrangement. No cracks in the bosses or anywhere else.
I found no evidence on the Web of these being a Japan product. Here's the funny part: Being an incredibly intelligent (modestly so) dude, I said to myself, "Self, unless that N.P.C. stands for something like Nippon Precision Casting, this'n here covers were surely made in the U.S. of A". I paused for a moment, had another swig of Stoli, and checked just for giggles. Hoo-yah. http://www.npc-c.co.jp/about/
I amaze myself sometimes. Usually when I'm sauced. So there ya go; although not an absolute, I say friggin' close enough, and I side for now on the "Made in Japan" story. I have not checked my OEM stash of 428CJ covers; I may crumble under the sheer weight. Two semi-colons in one paragraph. Ain't you guys lucky?
Since 429-460s were brought up.... As some of you probably know, valve cover options for the 385 series motor is rather limited, especially if you are wanting a vintage hotrod look.
I'm kind of in wonder that Ansen has not done any 385-series covers at all. I called them 2 or 3 times a couple years back bitching about the lack of 390 numbered covers, and now look. Coincidence? Probably. People snap to attention when they hear my name so well I can't even get extra sauce on the drive-thru burger. Dangerfield looked like a monarch compared to me. But I'll give it a shot since Jay's gonna putz out on me. What's that, like 5 or 6 times my business advice is ignored in this forum? Geez. I'd ask Trump for an advisory position, but he's gonna have access to FBI files, and that ain't good for me no way no how.
Oh well. I have 460 Blue Thunder covers that are beautiful pieces. Got them from Dennis; most I ever paid for a pair of covers, but worth it.
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Jay, I think your idea is great.
I still use tin "Powered By Ford" valve covers because they're not available in aluminum. I'd pay extra to have a cast alum. set with "Powered By Ford" milled in them.
I use AutoCAD everyday if you need any help producing a drawing for the CNC mill.
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You might get a cease and desist letter from Ford by casting, stamping, or applying "Ford" to a car part being sold as retail unless your a licensed manufacturer or retailer.
Actually I think most of the die cast 429 CJ covers around today came from 70-72 Police Interceptor engines. Most of these were painted blue. Back in the day I pulled tons, literally, of 429 CJ engines out of yards. Wish I had kept more of the parts. Scrapped out a 3 foot high stack of the flex fans because every single one of them had cracked fan blades. Back then no one thought too much about the cast iron C6 tailshafts and it was way cooler to use the aluminum version. Actually no one wanted C6's and you couldn't give them away and I scrapped them or offered them for free.
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I've always wanted a set like these. (http://i456.photobucket.com/albums/qq290/cyclonescott/s-l225_zpswkd06n9w.jpg) (http://s456.photobucket.com/user/cyclonescott/media/s-l225_zpswkd06n9w.jpg.html)
I've only seen 2 sets offered on Ebay in the last 15 years. My guess is not many were cast and those that were are locked up in FElony's garage.
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I've always wanted a set like these. (http://i456.photobucket.com/albums/qq290/cyclonescott/s-l225_zpswkd06n9w.jpg) (http://s456.photobucket.com/user/cyclonescott/media/s-l225_zpswkd06n9w.jpg.html)
I've only seen 2 sets offered on Ebay in the last 15 years. My guess is not many were cast and those that were are locked up in FElony's garage.
I see that the black widows and scorpions in my garage did little to dissuade you from seeing the six sets of these covers I have NOS. Damn slacker arachnids! OK, I jest. About the covers, not the arachnids.
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Re: "Actually I think most of the die cast 429 CJ covers around today came from 70-72 Police Interceptor engines. Most of these were painted blue."
Wow I had an addiction to 429PI heads for my offshore-powerboat. While I bought and swapped numerous 429PI parts including manifolds I never saw a blue painted valve cover from one. I'm pretty sure one pair of the 429PI cast valve covers still has the Emissions decal and those are not painted
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Jay, i recently bought a 3x2 air cleaner lid from this ebay seller:
http://www.ebay.com/usr/imanperformance?ul_noapp=true
It came in yesterday and it was a great casting (I'm always skeptical when buying on ebay). I searched through his ebay store and it looked like they are able to get a hold of quite a bit of FE stuff, so i asked him about finned valve covers and if he could locate me a set. He replied "I have 14 sets of those valve covers on order at this time. Their expected delivery date is April 12". This makes me believe that he's having them cast somewhere.
ANYWAYS, the finned valve cover endeavor may not be a wonderful use of your time if this guy is going to be selling them. They also sell the plain cast valve covers, and i'm willing to bet that they have more than one set in stock.
Does anybody on here know this guy? Seems like he would be posting on one of the FE forums if he wanted to boost his sales.
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mbrunson427
That seller is out of CA used to be an engine builder and now does some machine work as well as a retail store. I have bought a lot of parts from him the last being a BT manifold a couple of months ago. I emailed him and he put it up on his ebay store for me. He keeps some BT thunder stuff on his shelves for walk in customers. I recently asked about a BT 8v and I got the same response you did that he is back ordered 14 until the spring from BT.
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That makes a lot more sense. I don't understand why he doesn't advertise it as Blue Thunder then? Regardless, it's nice to know that I'll be able to claim a set of the finned valve covers I've been looking for.
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Those parts wouldn't dissuade me from this project. As mentioned those are Blue Thunder valve covers, and the guy wants stupid money for them, IMO. $400-$500 for a pair of valve covers??? If it turns out that I would have to sell mine for that I'd bail on the whole project...
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Good to hear Jay, when valve covers start to cost more than a decent set of rods a new source is needed.
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Boy I could use a set right now.
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So. Do you ship a pair to norway when they are ready jay ? =)) A plain one would be nice and clean!
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I ship worldwide. It gets a little expensive, though...
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I sure would like a set, vote cast for the plain covers.
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If this thing comes alive in near future like in next year or so.I would consider buying bigger batch of covers and ship them here europe by sea.Wuold be much cheaper in therms of shipping and therefore vat.
If the price is right i`ll by one set ,if no one else willing to the dirty job i might do job at least for the NORDIC countries.
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Since we were talking about Blue Thunder availability in this thread..... I saw this and found it interesting:
http://www.429-460.com/t25605-carroll-carter-making-thor-heads-now
I wonder if AFrancis is selling off certain patterns? Would REALLY be cool if someone could pick up a few of his products to be made, specifically the 2x4 intakes and a few valve covers that are in high demand.
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Ansen is cutting its own throat now. All of a sudden all their valve covers went up 50 to 100 dollars a pair within the last week or so. I emailed them today (Sun) and they replied that their costs had gone up. This, of course, is BS. Destined to go down the commode, I imagine.
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We need "FE Power" logo covers. After all it supports the guy actually making them and plainly describes what we all have. Win win in my book.
Oh and still would love some kinda logo decals in various different sizes.
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Funny you should ask about that, Keith, I'm working on a few trial sticker/decal designs. Will post on that in the next week or so. Also I will have more info on the valve covers soon...
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Ya know Mr. Jay, as long as we're on this line of thinking....... there are not enough FE flavored t shirts out there as well as stickers. ::)
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Or caps. ::) ::) ::)
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Could I get an fepower embroidered teddy for the wife?
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You know, I'm just not seeing FE Power as a fashion outlet. But a teddy... Hmmmm.... ;D ;D
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You know, I'm just not seeing FE Power as a fashion outlet. But a teddy... Hmmmm.... ;D ;D
You should at least have some shirts made for your Drag Week posse, and PRI representative's... You know, for advertising.
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A shirt like this with A logo across the fron.... no, back... definitely across the back.
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How bout casting some aluminum FE bell housings and water pumps ??
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Baby Bolt did some bells but they didn`t pan out. looked to be a nice repo though.
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How bout casting some aluminum FE bell housings and water pumps ??
There are lots of sources for aluminum water pumps, Edelbrock comes to mind of course. On the bells, I'm not sure I'd want to encourage anyone to use one; a clutch explosion is a scary thing without a scattershield...
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Actually I have one aluminum RC bell housing and bottom cover for sale now. Its listed here in the vendors section. I will have to make some more bottom covers soon. The project is for sale, but if doesn't sale soon I think that the bell housing pattern will be modified and updated to a newer version of the RC bell housing.
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My valve cover project is now officially a go; I just wrote the purchase order for the tooling and the patterns are now in process. I am hoping to have prototypes by the end of April, but that might be a bit of a stretch; we will see. Production parts should be available in June. See the link below in the vendor classifieds for information on getting on the list for these parts:
http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=4737.0
You would think that something as simple as a valve cover wouldn't be that difficult to design, but these pentroof covers have angles everywhere and I wanted to get a look at as many different variations of them as I could. I was able to look at the Cobra LeMans covers, the Blue Thunder covers, and a couple of different styles of Ford pentroof covers, including the ones with the Mercury script on the top (thanks to FERoadster for lending me those). I also needed to take into consideration the breather styles and locations, the ability to machine fins into the top side, the ability to cut the covers for clearance to the master cylinder or brake booster in some cars, having the ridges on the bottoms of the covers to hold the valve cover gasket in place, etc. etc. After screwing around with the design for a month or so I finally got a CAD model that I thought would be good; couple pictures of the model are below:
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/vcover1.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/vcover2.jpg)
The nightmare of casting these parts is that you spend thousands of dollars on tooling, and then have fitment problems or some other issue that you can't resolve easily. This happened to me to a minor degree on my intake adapter castings. The first prototype I got had a thin spot in the casting by the water jacket as it went past a bolt hole. I had to have the water jacket core box modified to eliminate this issue, which cost me an extra $1800 that I wasn't planning to spend. I wanted to avoid this kind of hiccup with the valve covers.
Fortunately, I had recently got my 3D printer up and running, after buying it over a year ago (too much stuff to do!). The perfect solution was to 3D print a copy of the valve cover, up to a height of 2" or so, and test fit it on an engine to make sure it all looked OK. Here's a couple pictures of my 3D printer printing one of the valve cover models:
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/gigabot1.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/gigabot2.jpg)
(Note: this print is of the full valve cover. All the plastic you see in the middle of the print is support for the roof of the cover, since you can't 3D print over air. This stuff tears away from the final print when it is finished).
The first print was extremely helpful, because I had a typo in one of the dimensions of the model that located one of the bolt holes, and it was off 0.100" from where it should have been. So, I modified the CAD model and printed another partial valve cover. I thought I was in pretty good shape at this point, because the bottom of the cover conformed in shape to the Ford valve covers I had on hand. However, my friend Kevin R pointed out that for people running the Dove end stands, most of the valve covers out there didn't fit. He offered to bring over his Dove rocker setup for a test fit. We bolted it on my test engine, and sure enough, the covers were not wide enough at the bottom to accomodate the Dove end stands (these are the ones that bolt to the head bolts). The end stands actually hang over the valve cover rail just a bit. I wanted my covers to fit as many different combinations as possible, so I went back to the CAD model and opened up the inside just enough to give 0.050" clearance with the Dove end stands. There was still plenty of area on the valve cover rail to seal to the covers, so I didn't have any qualms about the design change.
Back to the 3D printer one more time. This time the cover fit perfectly, even with the Dove end stands. I sent the valve cover model off to the pattern maker and the foundry for quotes.
I decided to print one more cover, a complete one this time, just to see what the whole thing looked like. Unfortunately, I ran out of white plastic for the printer about 3/4 of the way through the print, and had to finish it with gray plastic. Here's some pictures showing that print, and also the other partial cover print:
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/VCs3d.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/VC3D1.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/VC3D2.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/VC3D3.jpg)
The partial valve cover print also generated an idea for a certain version of the valve covers. It wouldn't be too tough to machine the top off the valve covers so that they looked like the partial print, and then put a clear plastic cover on the top, for visibility to the valvetrain. What do you guys think of that idea?
One other item I would like some feedback on is the breather holes. For the valve cover versions with breather, I would like to go with a screw-in version. Blue Thunder has a really nice setup, but they use what appears to be a custom screw-in cap, with 1-1/2" - 12 fine thread. I can't find a ready made cap with this thread anywhere. What is available mostly is the 1-1/4" screw-in versions. Just looking at them side by side, it would be a lot easier to pour oil into the larger hole if you didn't have a funnel handy, but the smaller hole versions are cheap and readily available. I'm leaning towards those. What do you guys think?
Thanks for any feedback, and for your interest in this project - Jay
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What do you think the price will be
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click the link:
http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=4737.0
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Thanks Drew
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Those are super cool Jay.
They look like my BT covers: (which I love)
(http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i6/DeepRootsNursery/445/IMG_1624_zpsz4ttekxl.jpg)
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Jay, have you plopped the protos on a shock tower car to see if the raised bolt bosses present an interference or access problem?
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I've test fit the 3D printed prototype on my 68 Mustang and it clears with no issues; I haven't test fit it on my 69 Torino, but it looks about the same for the bolt boss clearance. But with the power brake booster on that car I don't think the valve cover itself would fit...
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Hear is another thought. The breathers on the covers could be a little tight on the shock tower cars wear the tower brace goes to the fire wall. Be care full wear the breather is located so you could swap cover from side to side. Ask me how I know.
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Those look awesome Jay, wondering if there is enough room on the bottom side of the top to add extra thickness in specific places to allow a guy to drill and tap some holes? I'm thinking it would be cool to be able to directly mount a set of LS style coil packs on the valve covers like GM does. But it could also be useful for all kinds of things, and wouldn't change how they look from the outside.
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There is a fair amount of thickness all across the top, close to 3/8" and over 1/2" where the breathers go. I think you could drill and tap mounting holes there no problem...
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Those look awesome Jay, wondering if there is enough room on the bottom side of the top to add extra thickness in specific places to allow a guy to drill and tap some holes? I'm thinking it would be cool to be able to directly mount a set of LS style coil packs on the valve covers like GM does. But it could also be useful for all kinds of things, and wouldn't change how they look from the outside.
Jay do you still make those coil mounts that you used on the Mach?
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I do, in fact I'm going to crank out a set for my new dyno mule. I'll be starting a thread about that engine in a few days...
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First, I like that this is coming to fruition. Second, I love the extended bolt hole design (no more lost bolts down the frame rail areas or on the headers!).
But I'm going to say loudly, a removable top would be an outstanding idea! Not just clear, for looks, but having a solid aluminum top would be fantastic for quick checking for any excessively loose valve lash, without pulling the entire cover, which requires pulling the tower brace on shock tower cars when combined with this style cover. Having a removable top as an option is an even better idea, not everyone wants a 'modern' look to their parts, and a solid top still retains that old-school look. I think that's a great call on having both as an option.
But that also leads to the down side of this style; they are not shock tower friendly when changing plugs. I've always found it easier to just remove the entire valve cover when changing plugs, and that's easy to do with the CJ style even with a tower brace. Not so much with these, at least at the rear around the brake reservoir. Just goes to show that you can't kill all the birds with one stone ;D
As for the smaller breather hole, I'm pretty sure we all own funnels, so I don't see that as an issue at all unless 1 1/4" is too small to pull a good vacuum on a vacuum system.
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Jay I seen a cool ideal on FE form on the autolight inline carbs there air cleaner has a clear view tops with the groves machined in them, 2x4 w-bird clear top would be cool maybe the bottom clear to see the carbs? Greg
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By the way, I would hope to put enough meat in the rear area of the valve cover to be able to machine them to fit under any brake booster. Do you have a picture of your clearance at the back of the valve cover? I have a Mustang and a Torino here for clearance measurements, but not a pickup...
I suspect that this is a dead letter, but I said I'd get you a snap when I pulled it out of storage. Finally got it today. As you can see, part of the problem is the location of the PCV breather.
(http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m637/410dyno/IMG_3089_1.jpg)
Close up:
(http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m637/410dyno/IMG_3090_1.jpg)
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Since Jay is offering the possibility of 2 holes in each cover, i'd think he could drill one hole so that they're both in front? You'd have side specific covers that way, but that's nothing big. It'd be easy to plumb the PCV through the front or even the side of the spacer.
I have the same problem with the breather on my '70 truck and was thinking about this just today.
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Yes, I can program those holes in either location, so that both could be at the front of the engine with a certain set of the valve covers. There are a lot of options here; I can see the list of part numbers growing LOL!
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I would have liked to have another option back when I bought these - you probably recognize them, but I think the were by Anson. They sat on a shelf for 5 years before I built the new engine. They work better than the tin ones I had, but I don't like fact that I had to move the baffles closer to the holes to make more clearance for the rocker assembly. It makes oil changes tedious.
Having said that, for the next while I'll be spending my little Canadian dollars on things like a new alternator, an Eaton Truetrac, and maybe an upgrade to front disk brakes.
Putting an MSD distributor and MSD 6 box on it and pulling some new wires today.
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Any progress on the valve covers ?
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Yes, the tooling is done, and the foundry is working on getting me five prototypes in the next couple of weeks. When I have them I will post pics and an update - Jay
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After what seemed like endless delays at the pattern shop, core shop, and foundry, today I FINALLY received my first prototype valve cover castings. They still need to be shot blasted, and machined, but as they are I think they look pretty good: Pictures below; sorry for the poor lighting:
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/newvc1.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/newvc2.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/newvc3.jpg)
I will be getting them shot blasted on Monday, then machining Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday. I should be able to post pictures of some completed valve covers in about a week.
Assuming everything comes out OK, I will make the production order of 100 sets shortly thereafter. Then I will be hostage to the foundry schedule again, but I think a good guess would be about 8 weeks until I can start delivering the parts. For everyone on my list, thanks for your patience.
Also for anyone in the Minneapolis area who is planning to attend the big Back To The 50s show at the state fairgrounds June 23-25, I will be displaying my products, including these valve covers, at the show.
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Fantastic
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Can't rush perfection....
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How about adding a little door we can open to peek inside?
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Are you going to machine them for a o-ring as gasket?
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Are you going to machine them for a o-ring as gasket?
No, planning on using standard gaskets. I will machine one of them for a clear cover, though, and that one will get an O-ring seal to the clear part.
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I dont know but that damned gaskets always seems to get stuck
at valve mecanism and tear when removing the covers when there
is thight space around brakeboster exportbrace etc...so with a
glued o-ring that problem would be solved. And the retorquing
of corkgaskets that alwas want to sweat some oil. May be there
is better gaskets today ....I hate corkgaskets ::) ;D
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Not sure how well an O-ring gasket would work with the mating area between the intake and head. Seems it always takes a dab of sealer there, and that wouldn't work with an O-ring.
The castings look nice. That foundry sure does nice work.
Question: what are the thicker angled areas on the underside for? Maybe just a thicker spot for machining the hole for the breather/PCV/oil hole? Also, I can't remember, will they have notches for the gaskets?
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The thick areas are for the breathers, and I do plan to machine them for the notches to hold the valve cover gaskets.
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Jay do you have a target price ?
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Jay, could those same molds be used to make say a super light weight yet strong carbon fiber (ala' a lay up) valve cover as well?
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Price for the plain or finned version will be $259/pair. If you want custom lettering or something special, that will raise the price, depending on how long it takes me to program.
Bob, the forms for the sand patterns are red urethane, so I don't think they could be used for a carbon fiber mold without having some sticking problems.
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those look real cool, wish I was on the list and had the money for them. maybe next batch, but my 50th bday is Dec. maybe someone wants to get me an early present lol
Rick
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Jay,
Do you know where you will be located at the MN fairgrounds Back to tho 50's show?
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I'm going to be displaying my parts in Tim Meyer's booth, TMeyer Inc is the company name. We are going to be located somewhere out in front of the grandstands.
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A post by Tim Meyer on Facebook says it is Block B37, space 15. The map does show it in front of the Grandstand.
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I would like to have Made Inn U.S.A script innside both covers. :) The covers are looking good Jay.
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Been burning the midnight oil on the CNC machines, trying to get the valve covers ready to show at the Back to the 50s event at the Minnesota State Fairgrounds this weekend. Just finished up the fourth cover, so I thought I would post some pictures. Here is part number 17004, which has two breather holes, one filled with a screw-in cap, and the other with a screw-in breather filter:
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17004a.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17004b.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17004c.jpg)
Here's my favorite, part number 17005. This one is engraved on the top. I expect to be able to do custom engraving on any of the covers:
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17005a.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17005b.jpg)
Also, some shots of the underside. You can see the ridge around the outside of the cover to hold the gasket in place. Also, the machined area underneath is a breather relief. Around this area are four small tapped holes. There will be a steel baffle plate that screws into the holes and extends out towards the end of the valve cover. The idea is to get the baffle past the last rocker arm before it opens up, to prevent oil splash up in to this area. Also note on this cover that both breather areas are machined, even though only one breather hole is cut into the cover. I'm going to machine all of them this way, even the ones with no holes, so that people can put their own holes in the covers if they want. I expect to be offering them with the screw-in style holes as shown in the photos, or with a 1" machined hole for a push in breather, depending on what my customers want. But there may be other potential openings, so making the breather reliefs and baffle plates available on all the covers will open up all the possibilities:
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17005c.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17005d.jpg)
Here's a couple of shots of the plain cover. This is the one I'd expect to be selling for $259:
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17001a.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17001b.jpg)
Last but not least is the cover shown below. This one took quite a bit of time to machine, and the clear polycarbonate cover took some time to cut also. And, I'm going to have to test this one because I'm not sure the O-ring seal is 100% reliable. I'll get it on the dyno and check it for leaks sometime soon. Hopefully it will be OK, because I think this one is pretty cool:
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17008a.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17008b.jpg)
And here's a shot of all of them together:
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/allvcb.jpg)
Overall I'm pretty happy with these valve covers. There are a couple of issues I have to address with the foundry, in terms of the surface finish, and also the cleanup they do on the covers (one of them showed evidence of a light touch with a sanding wheel, which they probably use to clean up the risers at the bottom of the casting; I have to make sure that the foundry knows I can't accept covers with any sanding marks on the outside surface). Nevertheless, I think those issues can be easily addressed, and am still hopeful I can be starting to deliver these in 8 weeks or so. I'm very curious to see how they will be received at the big car show this weekend...
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nice Jay I think the clear cover is cool what do you think the life expectance is on the top as far as seeing through it , or after a year or two you buy new tops.
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I was going to mention the surface finish, but didn't want to sound like I was nit-picking. They don't look like the quality of finish on the other parts you produce. Hopefully they can clean them up a bit.Still...looking good. Can't wait to get a couple sets. I really like the baffle idea. Will the baffles come with the covers?
Just one suggestion, a link to a supplier of the breathers and caps would be nice when they're offered up for sale. I just ordered a CVR pump and fitting to go with your adapters and had to spend some time looking up the correct part numbers for the short and medium fittings for the pump inlet. A link in the add would be helpful to buyers.
I know, I know....I'm lazy... :)
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nice Jay I think the clear cover is cool what do you think the life expectance is on the top as far as seeing through it , or after a year or two you buy new tops.
I hope not, the clear covers should be good for the life of the valve cover. Again, I need to test them to be sure...
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I was going to mention the surface finish, but didn't want to sound like I was nit-picking. They don't look like the quality of finish on the other parts you produce. Hopefully they can clean them up a bit.Still...looking good. Can't wait to get a couple sets. I really like the baffle idea. Will the baffles come with the covers?
I'm used to your nit-picking, Doug ;D ;D Turns out that the foundry used the wrong sand for the outside surface of the mold. I had specified a very fine sand, to try to make the finish very smooth, but somehow between the main office and the foundry floor that message got lost. They will be casting a few more prototypes for me before I place the production order, to make sure that the surface finish issue is addressed.
The baffles will come with the covers, I just haven't gotten them produced yet. As far as the oil caps and breathers, I will supply those. I have to buy them from a certain manufacturer and make a modification to them so that they will work with the covers, so they won't be available elsewhere. The caps will add $15-$20 each to the price of the valve covers, and the breathers will be somewhere in the range of $30-$40.
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Been burning the midnight oil on the CNC machines, trying to get the valve covers ready to show at the Back to the 50s event at the Minnesota State Fairgrounds this weekend. Just finished up the fourth cover, so I thought I would post some pictures. Here is part number 17004, which has two breather holes, one filled with a screw-in cap, and the other with a screw-in breather filter:
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17004a.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17004b.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17004c.jpg)
Here's my favorite, part number 17005. This one is engraved on the top. I expect to be able to do custom engraving on any of the covers:
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17005a.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17005b.jpg)
Also, some shots of the underside. You can see the ridge around the outside of the cover to hold the gasket in place. Also, the machined area underneath is a breather relief. Around this area are four small tapped holes. There will be a steel baffle plate that screws into the holes and extends out towards the end of the valve cover. The idea is to get the baffle past the last rocker arm before it opens up, to prevent oil splash up in to this area. Also note on this cover that both breather areas are machined, even though only one breather hole is cut into the cover. I'm going to machine all of them this way, even the ones with no holes, so that people can put their own holes in the covers if they want. I expect to be offering them with the screw-in style holes as shown in the photos, or with a 1" machined hole for a push in breather, depending on what my customers want. But there may be other potential openings, so making the breather reliefs and baffle plates available on all the covers will open up all the possibilities:
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17005c.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17005d.jpg)
Here's a couple of shots of the plain cover. This is the one I'd expect to be selling for $259:
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17001a.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17001b.jpg)
Last but not least is the cover shown below. This one took quite a bit of time to machine, and the clear polycarbonate cover took some time to cut also. And, I'm going to have to test this one because I'm not sure the O-ring seal is 100% reliable. I'll get it on the dyno and check it for leaks sometime soon. Hopefully it will be OK, because I think this one is pretty cool:
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17008a.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17008b.jpg)
And here's a shot of all of them together:
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/allvcb.jpg)
Overall I'm pretty happy with these valve covers. There are a couple of issues I have to address with the foundry, in terms of the surface finish, and also the cleanup they do on the covers (one of them showed evidence of a light touch with a sanding wheel, which they probably use to clean up the risers at the bottom of the casting; I have to make sure that the foundry knows I can't accept covers with any sanding marks on the outside surface). Nevertheless, I think those issues can be easily addressed, and am still hopeful I can be starting to deliver these in 8 weeks or so. I'm very curious to see how they will be received at the big car show this weekend...
Personally I like the ones with the two breathers. That way I can put the 427 decal on them. Btw, I don't know if I missed it but what will be the cost or approximate cost? Thanks!
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Jay rather than going back and reading a bunch of threads is there hardware for these covers they look special maybe even a rubber insert on the top.
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There are 3" long allen bolts and washers that will come with the valve covers.
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Jay, I don't know if you know this, but if you take a butane torch to the edges of the polycarbonate after it is cut to shape and gently bring the flame to the cut edges, it will clear up like the top, and you won't have to sand or dress the sharp edges. Takes a little practice, but the results are worth the effort. Joe-JDC
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That should be nice and clean looking.
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Just throwing this out there like a clay pigeon in a shooting range - what about PCV's?
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I'm used to your nit-picking, Doug ;D ;D
Good, so long as we're on the same page ;D
The one stop shopping for the breathers and caps is nice.
Any thoughts on producing a cap with a welded on bung for an evac system? Wait...if so, will you be welding them? ;D ;D (sorry, couldn't resist that one..lol)
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(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17005a.jpg)
Well, you started spelling FElony right, but then you got all misguided and screwed up the rest. Better luck next time.
Clear cover lids. Nifty idea. In the 70's there was a local that had a BBC with the valve covers completely made of some kind of clear poly. (His entire hood was, too). His experience was that every time the car was driven, a light film of oil dried on the inside of the covers. This built up quickly into a haze that was almost opaque. That material did not take kindly to his attempts at cleaning.
My readily ignored input here is that you may have to investigate coatings that are poly-friendly that can shed all oils, if there is such a thing. Testing is going to involve a lot of heat cycles in a daily driver.
Alternatively, you can make aluminum pieces to fasten there for driving use, and let the customer switch out for valvetrain inspection or car showiness. In any case, don't forget to have clear distributor caps made to match, because those are really boss and worth extra horsepower. Maybe a clear air cleaner lid, too. And quite possibly a clear
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Just throwing this out there like a clay pigeon in a shooting range - what about PCV's?
You can buy a cover with no holes and drill it for a PCV valve, or buy one with a cap and drill the cap for the PCV. Lots of options there...
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The one stop shopping for the breathers and caps is nice.
Any thoughts on producing a cap with a welded on bung for an evac system? Wait...if so, will you be welding them? ;D ;D (sorry, couldn't resist that one..lol)
I could machine a cap for a -12 AN fitting, which would hook up to an evac system. Lots of possibilities there. I can machine the caps for just about any insert...
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A thought, if it has not been mentioned, probably has and I missed it. Why not an oring seal to head?? I have used custom billet valve and box type intakes (150lbs boost) with the rope type oring or whatever the technical name is with excellent results.
Its sooo nice being able to pull a cover check things out, throw it back on with no concern of leakage and minimal mess. Outsider looking in but it seems the bottom gasket flange would give plenty of material.?
I suppose the variation in the head and the potential mismatch from head to intake would be an issue, maybe a thick type oring would help. Just throwing ideas. feel free to throw them out lol
BTW they look awesome!
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(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/17005a.jpg)
Well, you started spelling FElony right, but then you got all misguided and screwed up the rest. Better luck next time.
Sorry! I'm not worthy ;D
Clear cover lids. Nifty idea. In the 70's there was a local that had a BBC with the valve covers completely made of some kind of clear poly. (His entire hood was, too). His experience was that every time the car was driven, a light film of oil dried on the inside of the covers. This built up quickly into a haze that was almost opaque. That material did not take kindly to his attempts at cleaning.
My readily ignored input here is that you may have to investigate coatings that are poly-friendly that can shed all oils, if there is such a thing. Testing is going to involve a lot of heat cycles in a daily driver.
I've had a different experience with the polycarbonate (Lexan) valve covers that I vacuum formed and used on the dyno. They don't seem to get any kind of coating on them. However, any moisture quickly accumulates in the valve cover area and they look whitish and milky until the engine temp comes up enough to make the moisture evaporates. Kind of makes you paranoid, like maybe you've got water in the oil, even when you don't. I would expect the same issue with the clear tops.
Alternatively, you can make aluminum pieces to fasten there for driving use, and let the customer switch out for valvetrain inspection or car showiness. In any case, don't forget to have clear distributor caps made to match, because those are really boss and worth extra horsepower. Maybe a clear air cleaner lid, too. And quite possibly a clear
And quite possibly a clear... what? Don't leave me in suspense.
I've already had a couple customers asking about an aluminum cover instead of polycarbonate. I could certainly machine a billet aluminum cover, with fins even, to use in place of the polycarbonate. However, I have the same concerns as stated earlier, about seal. There is only room in the casting for five screws to hold the cover on. To bridge some of those long distances with an O-ring seal might be problematic. I have to test the cover first before I know that will work.
I think the clear covers would go nicely with the clear distributor cap. Then, a clear center cover on the intake adapter, and a clear cover on one of my timing covers. Moving towards the visible V-8 engine, we are...
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A thought, if it has not been mentioned, probably has and I missed it. Why not an oring seal to head?? I have used custom billet valve and box type intakes (150lbs boost) with the rope type oring or whatever the technical name is with excellent results.
Its sooo nice being able to pull a cover check things out, throw it back on with no concern of leakage and minimal mess. Outsider looking in but it seems the bottom gasket flange would give plenty of material.?
I suppose the variation in the head and the potential mismatch from head to intake would be an issue, maybe a thick type oring would help. Just throwing ideas. feel free to throw them out lol
BTW they look awesome!
The joint between the intake and the head would be my concern; if there was any mismatch I don't think an O-ring would seal there. Maybe I'll machine one for an O-ring as a test, just to try it out...
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The joint between the intake and the head would be my concern; if there was any mismatch I don't think an O-ring would seal there. Maybe I'll machine one for an O-ring as a test, just to try it out...
[/quote]
*Cough Cough* I happen to know a test dummy! And Ive got the perfect engine to test this on with a mismatch..
Worst case would be fill the machined groove with silicone and go back to regular gaskets.
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Just one suggestion, a link to a supplier of the breathers and caps would be nice when they're offered up for sale. I just ordered a CVR pump and fitting to go with your adapters and had to spend some time looking up the correct part numbers for the short and medium fittings for the pump inlet. A link in the add would be helpful to buyers.
I know, I know....I'm lazy... :)
Just wanted to add that... if I had actually READ the directions that were supplied with the adapters, before looking the parts up, I would have noticed that Jay had already included ALL the related part numbers, including hoses. Somebody get me a sock :P
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You know, I do spend a fair amount of time on the directions, trying to make installation of my parts as painless as possible. You can lead a horse to water... ;D
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I've had a different experience with the polycarbonate (Lexan) valve covers that I vacuum formed and used on the dyno...
Dyno? Are you deef or sumpin'? Put that sucker out on the road where the engine ingests dirt and slow-moving pedestrians and such, where the oil gets dark and starts to break down. Not coddled in an anti-septic crib where you goo-goo talk it and teach it to use its fan as a fidget spinner. See what that LEXAN looks like after a few thousand miles of reality. You know, the state of being that I try to avoid at all costs.
If I'm wrong, then fine. Good for you, and you can call me any names you wish, as long as you don't send the goose after me. {shudder} If I'm right, one night you will hear your customers gathering for a hanging outside like a scene from Frankenstein. Instead of pitchforks and torches, though, they will be waving pieces of unclear polycarbonate rocker cover lids. Your choice.
Alternatively, you can make aluminum pieces to fasten there for driving use, and let the customer switch out for valvetrain inspection or car showiness. In any case, don't forget to have clear distributor caps made to match, because those are really boss and worth extra horsepower. Maybe a clear air cleaner lid, too. And quite possibly a clear
And quite possibly a clear... what? Don't leave me in suspense.
In the spirit of this transparent topic, I typed those next two paragraphs using invisible ink. To see what I wrote, which is really insightful and such, get your heat gun (blow dryer will suffice), and run it back and forth on your computer monitor. After it reaches a certain temp, the words will appear like magic. No, really. Don't you trust me?
I've already had a couple customers asking about an aluminum cover instead of polycarbonate. I could certainly machine a billet aluminum cover, with fins even, to use in place of the polycarbonate. However, I have the same concerns as stated earlier, about seal. There is only room in the casting for five screws to hold the cover on. To bridge some of those long distances with an O-ring seal might be problematic. I have to test the cover first before I know that will work.
Lemmee guess, you are going to test it on the DYNO! BWAHAHAHA!
I think the clear covers would go nicely with the clear distributor cap. Then, a clear center cover on the intake adapter, and a clear cover on one of my timing covers. Moving towards the visible V-8 engine, we are...
Speaking for the forum at large, I think all of us can appreciate getting drunk and going out to the garage, lifting the hood, firing the beast, and sitting there watching the little rotor-thingy going 'round and 'round for hours. Too mesmerized to remember to unzip yourself to leak all that beer? No problem, the airflow through the factory fan will dry your jeans in just a couple minutes. Ask me how I know.
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You could very well be right about the clear stuff, and in fact the lack of a few thousand street miles is why I haven't put my vacuum formed clear valve covers up for sale. I should have them on the road in my 68 Mustang in a week or so, though. If they hold up through the summer, then I will feel more confident in avoiding the lynch mob...
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Jay, thanks so much for putting the work in on doing these valve covers. I got my name on the waiting list at back to the 50's (i'm the one that showed you the pics of my 390 that broke the timing gear off the cam lol). Didn't notice this thread until today, now i'm more pumped for the finished product!
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OK, where are the under-hood Go Pro videos of the clear covers zippin' down the road. Inquiring minds want to know.
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Felony, you should know by now that any time I give a time estimate it should be multiplied by a factor of 3 or 4. I can't be trusted to hit a deadline, especially with my own vehicles. In fact, it is somewhat miraculous that I've made it to Drag Week all these years. I have no idea how I'm going to make it this year...
I am pretty close to driving my 68 Mustang (which I started as a 4 day weekend project over two years ago!), just waiting for a last minute fuel line fitting and a couple of ebay relays. Should be driving this thing by Friday (translation - in 3 more weeks ;D). Pics below; I think they look pretty good on there.
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/68must01.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/68must02.jpg)
(http://fepower.net/Photos/Posts/68must03.jpg)
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That does look good Jay nice work! Those may end up being the best seller after the durability test as you can partially diagnose issues with little effort.
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Jay, how's about some more pics of the '68, all shiny and polished up? I'm sure other would like a current look-see as well. ;)
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Jay so who's covers are they in the picture is that something you made up also. And yes some pis of the stang would be nice. Ok just went back and read it like I should have in the first place so forget about the first question how about some pics.
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Go to the first page of this thread for some pics of the car in 2015, right before I tore it apart:
http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=2725.msg26923#msg26923
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Jay whatever happened to the LED lights you had on the prototype clear cover.. I would think that would really be appealing to the gotta have bling crowd. plus it could be like a strobe light to check valve train motion....
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I know you have it some where, but what's the pricing going to be on these?
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Jay whatever happened to the LED lights you had on the prototype clear cover.. I would think that would really be appealing to the gotta have bling crowd. plus it could be like a strobe light to check valve train motion....
Royce, I have one set with the LED lights built in, but the set I put on the car doesn't have them. I may swap to the LED set sometime this summer. I was going to do a strobe circuit to flash them with a potentiometer under the hood to adjust the speed, but haven't gotten around to that yet.
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I know you have it some where, but what's the pricing going to be on these?
$295/set, I think. I haven't done all the production pricing checks yet. Bear in mind that these covers won't fit on every application. For example, I think a valve spring diameter of about 1.55" is about max; I had a friend try them on an engine with 1.61" diameter springs and they wouldn't fit. They also won't fit on some rocker setups, and they just barely clear the Precision Oil Pump end stands. On the other hand, the valve covers with the cast aluminum base and the flat clear top should fit on anything; it remains to be seen on that set if they will seal properly over the long haul, though...
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I know you have it some where, but what's the pricing going to be on these?
$295/set, I think. I haven't done all the production pricing checks yet. Bear in mind that these covers won't fit on every application. For example, I think a valve spring diameter of about 1.55" is about max; I had a friend try them on an engine with 1.61" diameter springs and they wouldn't fit. They also won't fit on some rocker setups, and they just barely clear the Precision Oil Pump end stands. On the other hand, the valve covers with the cast aluminum base and the flat clear top should fit on anything; it remains to be seen on that set if they will seal properly over the long haul, though...
Thank you. That's a really reasonable price.
Why can't -or why wouldn't- you make the one piece covers with the same internal dimensions as the two piece? Draft issues?
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was going to do a strobe circuit to flash them with a potentiometer under the hood to adjust the speed, but haven't gotten around to that yet.
Better yet, wire it in to the bass channel of your stereo.
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was going to do a strobe circuit to flash them with a potentiometer under the hood to adjust the speed, but haven't gotten around to that yet.
Better yet, wire it in to the bass channel of your stereo.
Best tech idea yet!! Imagine the hood up at the cruise-in, and your rockers flashing to some classic MC Hammer. Don't Touch This! 'Cuz that's how I roll, er, hop. I can paint my stock rockers in neon colors to show my class and fine breeding.
Seriously, I really like these clear covers. Keeping fingers crossed that they stay clear under use. Not really of course; I can't type with my fingers crossed. Seriously.
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Thank you. That's a really reasonable price.
Why can't -or why wouldn't- you make the one piece covers with the same internal dimensions as the two piece? Draft issues?
It's more about how they are constructed, although draft does enter into it. I do need more draft when vacuum forming the clear top than I need when designing the sand cast covers.
The valve cover rail sandwiches the polycarbonate with 3/8" aluminum on either side. That area of the polycarbonate has to be flat to get a decent seal. Once inside of the valve cover rail, the polycarbonate has to make a somewhat gradual turn to go vertical; the polycarbonate I'm using is 0.090" wall and it just won't suck down all that well in the corners of the plug, to make a nice sharp edge. So, that gradual turn once the polycarbonate is inside the valve cover rails eats up some area, and can cause some interference issues.
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Well, they do a lot of other parts besides FE stuff, and I have my own plan for heads and intakes, that wouldn't really mesh with what Blue Thunder makes. So that's not really a good option for me. Besides, I don't think they're for sale ;D ;D
Time to ask a stupid question. Been reading another thread that has degenerated into some uncivil discourse and the limitations of the FE head/intake configuration was mentioned. If you can make an intake adapter, and BBM and Survival have made new heads, and you are thinking about blocks and heads, is there a reason that the FE head must have the intake sit over top of the block? Is it not possible to make a head and intake adapter into one and the same?
Would it not open up additional options for runner routing and chamber shape?
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I don't think it would open up any runner routing or chamber shape options, but it would make the FE a little bit more conventional. The problem will be the area under the extended head and the block rail. The SOHC has that feature, and has little triangularly shaped cork pieces that go in to seal that area. You could do the same thing if you extended the wedge FE head out.
Of course, if you did that, no standard FE intake would fit, because of the design. So, you'd be stuck with a custom intake, or making the head fit an intake from another engine, like the 351C. And if you are going to design a new head and require an intake that wouldn't fit previous head designs, you could just leave the basic configuration the same.
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Maybe 10 yrs back, Rick Smith(trick flow) was telling me that he could build me a set of heads that would really wake my car up. Great, just need that winning lottery ticket ;D . I told him the only problem was it would not be an "FE" anymore because I'm sure it would be a custom billet whatever with a custom intake, blah, blah, blah. I'm sure it would fly, but again, it would not be an "FE" anymore.
Rick worked with a local truck pulling guy on a SBF, so he was around the shop occasionally.
Lucky for me(and my pocket book) I like it just the way it is. 8)
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For anyone who is on my list and waiting for these valve covers, please go to the link below for an update. Thanks, Jay
http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=4737.msg57150#msg57150