OK thank you all for posting. I am going to try a little of everything (one at a time). I did test the battery already. Its an optima red top and its on a "Battery tender" trickle charger. I took it to the autoparts store and they say it holds a charge just fine.
Next, I am going to take a dremmel and grind down the "tab" on the tubular K member I have the starter grounded to. The more I read the more I hear how any powdercoating can screw up a ground connection. The thing with the tubular K members is that they have this "Super" coating on them. Its got to be the thickest powder coating I have ever come across.... I guess that's good since the underside of the car gets a beating from the elements. I am going to grind both sides of the tab down to bare metal and re bolt on the ground cable. (I believe the original ground location for the Saleen engine was the actual block itself, but it wont reach the Cammer block.)
Before I try the starter again (after the thorough powder coating removal), I am going to try and turn the engine (clockwise) with a breaker bar and socket. Given the fact that this baby is literally shoehorned in the engine bay, I am not sure If I can even get to it (I definitely can not even see the balancer from the underside). Possibly taking off a few skid plates and such may give me access). I guess if I can not reach the balancer with the breaker bar, I could put the car in 1st gear and roll it forward down the driveway? This would turn the engine. I am guessing if its locked up it wont roll forward?.... that would be a last resort.
I keep reading that bad ground connections on a starter make the solenoid click (because they don't require that much current to operate), but the starter motor itself wont activate because it needs much more current.... and with a bad ground connection, you just get a click. I really hope at this point its just the ground.
in other news, I already ordered a replacement stainless braided clutch supply line. It looks like if I can loosen and retighten the fitting through the clutch fork window, I wont need to remove the transmission. I don't think I can get much of a turn on the wrench, so it may be slow going. After I get it removed, I can re-Teflon tape the fitting back onto the braided line, and then hopefully slowly snug it back down through the same fork window. Keep you all posted