Author Topic: The dreaded clunk  (Read 3471 times)

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Royce

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The dreaded clunk
« on: October 21, 2021, 01:14:20 PM »
Of the oil pump drive shaft falling into the pan.. Last idiot in this engine did not install the retainer washer and just as the distributor was to clear the manifold it dropped out... Anyone have any clever ways to retrieve it without removing the pan or front cover?  Leave it at the bottom of the pan?
1955 Thunderbird Competition Coupe Altered Chassis "War Bird" 383 Lincoln Y block 520 hp
1955 Thunderbird 292 275 hp Y Block
1956 Ford Victoria 292 Y block

1957 Mercury 2dr Wagon "Battle Wagon" drag car 
1957 Thunderbird Glass body Tube Chassis drag car 333 cu in 500 hp Ford Y block
1961 Starliner 390/375 clone
1965 GT40 tribute w/FE
1966 Falcon Pro Touring project
Kaase Boss 547. 840 HP 698 Torque  pump gas
1992 BMW V-12 5.0
2001 Lincoln 5.4 4 cam.
1968 Cougar XR7

My427stang

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Re: The dreaded clunk
« Reply #1 on: October 21, 2021, 01:46:09 PM »
I know you aren't asking this, but as much as it stinks, the only "right" answer in to drop the pan

I have never fished one in from the top, but all I can picture is after all the work to get it out, or acceptance to leave it, you end up one tooth off and "clunk" now you have two in there LOL


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Royce

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Re: The dreaded clunk
« Reply #2 on: October 21, 2021, 02:57:14 PM »
I hear ya.....  I figured I would pull the water pump and front cover and get at it... Less time on my back under the car...  I am temped to leave it.. This car does not get driven much and the chance of the shaft leaping off the bottom into the crank seems small..  I think I will drain the oil and see if it is visible.. If that's a no go. then I would glue the new shaft into the distributor drive to install it...
1955 Thunderbird Competition Coupe Altered Chassis "War Bird" 383 Lincoln Y block 520 hp
1955 Thunderbird 292 275 hp Y Block
1956 Ford Victoria 292 Y block

1957 Mercury 2dr Wagon "Battle Wagon" drag car 
1957 Thunderbird Glass body Tube Chassis drag car 333 cu in 500 hp Ford Y block
1961 Starliner 390/375 clone
1965 GT40 tribute w/FE
1966 Falcon Pro Touring project
Kaase Boss 547. 840 HP 698 Torque  pump gas
1992 BMW V-12 5.0
2001 Lincoln 5.4 4 cam.
1968 Cougar XR7

Rory428

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Re: The dreaded clunk
« Reply #3 on: October 21, 2021, 04:36:51 PM »
I would advise against using "glue" to hold the oil pump drive shaft. If a chunk of dried glue finds it`s way into the oil pump, you will have bigger issues than worrying about an extra drive shaft rolling around the bottom of the oil pan.
1978 Fairmont,FE 427 with 428 crank, 4 speed Jerico best of 9.972@132.54MPH 1.29 60 foot
1985 Mustang HB 331 SB Ford, 4 speed Jerico, best of 10.29@128 MPH 1.40 60 foot.
1974 F350 race car hauler 390 NP435 4 speed
1959 Ford Meteor 2 dr sedan. 428 Cobra Jet, 4 speed Toploader. 12.54@ 108 MPH

jayb

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Re: The dreaded clunk
« Reply #4 on: October 21, 2021, 04:53:23 PM »
Royce, if you are sure it is all the way in the pan, and not hanging up on the oil pump somehow, leave it in the pan.  Just get yourself a big magnet to attach to the bottom of the pan so that it grabs the oil pump drive shaft.  I know it's kind of a hack, but it works.  Been there, done that in my younger days... :o
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
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Royce

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Re: The dreaded clunk
« Reply #5 on: October 21, 2021, 05:24:45 PM »
Hey  I am all about the hack   LOL... In the pan she goes..  Great idea on the magnet  Going to use a dab of RTV to "glue" the shaft into the distributor drive.  I was hoping the shaft was hung up on the oil pump but no luck there.
1955 Thunderbird Competition Coupe Altered Chassis "War Bird" 383 Lincoln Y block 520 hp
1955 Thunderbird 292 275 hp Y Block
1956 Ford Victoria 292 Y block

1957 Mercury 2dr Wagon "Battle Wagon" drag car 
1957 Thunderbird Glass body Tube Chassis drag car 333 cu in 500 hp Ford Y block
1961 Starliner 390/375 clone
1965 GT40 tribute w/FE
1966 Falcon Pro Touring project
Kaase Boss 547. 840 HP 698 Torque  pump gas
1992 BMW V-12 5.0
2001 Lincoln 5.4 4 cam.
1968 Cougar XR7

jayb

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Re: The dreaded clunk
« Reply #6 on: October 21, 2021, 07:35:27 PM »
Hey  I am all about the hack   LOL...

It's all that work on the dyno  ;D
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

427Fastback

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Re: The dreaded clunk
« Reply #7 on: October 21, 2021, 08:57:58 PM »
Had it happen a few times....i put grease in the distributer and push the shaft in..
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BruceS

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Re: The dreaded clunk
« Reply #8 on: October 22, 2021, 08:16:23 AM »
In my younger days, the first time I pulled the distributor on my 390 Mustang the shaft came loose and fell.  The car was almost new at the time so I have to guess that Ford didn't install a retainer washer in my engine either.  Luckily my buddy who was helping me, his Father owned an auto parts store so we were able to go and get a replacement since it was at night (as usual).  Left the original shaft in the pan never to be seen or heard from again!   
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durkzz8

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Re: The dreaded clunk
« Reply #9 on: October 22, 2021, 09:59:31 AM »
Had a 69 F100 with a 360 and I dropped one and left it in the pan. Was the stock front sump pan. After a couple years in there it decided to somehow hit the crank and come out the side of the oil pan when I was on the ramp putting the boat in the lake. I heard a bang and oil pressure started dropping. Found half of it still in the pan mangled up.

Falcon67

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Re: The dreaded clunk
« Reply #10 on: October 22, 2021, 01:02:29 PM »
Royce, if you are sure it is all the way in the pan, and not hanging up on the oil pump somehow, leave it in the pan.  Just get yourself a big magnet to attach to the bottom of the pan so that it grabs the oil pump drive shaft.  I know it's kind of a hack, but it works.  Been there, done that in my younger days... :o

Find an old hard drive or two and pull them apart.  The magnets inside to guide the read head(s) are extremely powerful.  My have to trim the brackets.  Most are strong enough to require a screwdriver to pry off a flat metal surface.

shady

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Re: The dreaded clunk
« Reply #11 on: October 22, 2021, 02:00:43 PM »
Old microwave oven magnetron tubes have great magnets in them.
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wayne

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Re: The dreaded clunk
« Reply #12 on: October 22, 2021, 03:23:48 PM »
Time to go to habor freight and get one of their small tellascoping magnets its small enough  to go down from the top i think.

Royce

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Re: The dreaded clunk
« Reply #13 on: October 22, 2021, 06:32:19 PM »
Ol Henry must be watching over the hack mechanics.. Drained the oil, went to parts store and bought a light on a long flexible stalk  Got down in there and could see it.. I was able to wiggle a telescoping magnet past the cast distributor seat and grabbed the tip and GENTLY pulled it out.  Miracle ....  A piece of tape on the shaft to make it fit tight in the distributor and it drops in no problem. Must be living right this week...

Set the timing and went for a test drive

 
1955 Thunderbird Competition Coupe Altered Chassis "War Bird" 383 Lincoln Y block 520 hp
1955 Thunderbird 292 275 hp Y Block
1956 Ford Victoria 292 Y block

1957 Mercury 2dr Wagon "Battle Wagon" drag car 
1957 Thunderbird Glass body Tube Chassis drag car 333 cu in 500 hp Ford Y block
1961 Starliner 390/375 clone
1965 GT40 tribute w/FE
1966 Falcon Pro Touring project
Kaase Boss 547. 840 HP 698 Torque  pump gas
1992 BMW V-12 5.0
2001 Lincoln 5.4 4 cam.
1968 Cougar XR7

cammerfe

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Re: The dreaded clunk
« Reply #14 on: October 22, 2021, 10:21:38 PM »
Ol Henry must be watching over the hack mechanics.. Drained the oil, went to parts store and bought a light on a long flexible stalk  Got down in there and could see it.. I was able to wiggle a telescoping magnet past the cast distributor seat and grabbed the tip and GENTLY pulled it out.  Miracle ....  A piece of tape on the shaft to make it fit tight in the distributor and it drops in no problem. Must be living right this week...

Set the timing and went for a test drive

 

Use a SERIOUS degreasing spray on the pump shaft end and the socket in the end of the diz 'hex'. Put one drop of red Locktite in the hex and put the driveshaft in. One drop isn't enough cause overflow. (You'll have removed the washer, of course.)

Now you can pull the diz innumerable times without fear of dropping the !@#$#@! thing into the pan and not fear having 'glue' loose in the oiling system either.

Did this on Brother Lon's '67 Mustang/427 TP. :)

KS
« Last Edit: October 23, 2021, 10:22:40 PM by cammerfe »