Guys, I've got a 3.50 Tru-Trac that I've had in my 57 for about 4 years now. It has the Moser 31 spline axles and housing. It has began making a lot of clunking going around a corner at slow speeds now. It always clunked once or twice but now it's getting alarming. I pumped up the tires to 45 lbs this spring where I'd always run them on 35 lbs, don't think that would be the cause but I just thought I'd say that. No leaks, never. Quite as can be when driving. It doesn't have clutch pads so that can't be it.
Do these get this way when they get older or is this an indication something is going wrong. I run regular 225 X 15" tires so there's not a lot of tread on the ground. Help

Got a question on jet size. I just installed a 390 with C1AE heads, GT intake and 268H comp cam. It's running 9.6 CR and 7.9 DCR. The carburetor I used was a Holley Avenger 570cfm  that I used for years behind a 270HP 390 I had. But, I changed the primary jets to 62 instead of the 54's that came with it. The secondary metering block is a 65 jet equivalent. The question I've got is this: Why does a 600cfm Holley Classic carb come with 65 primary jets and 65 secondary jets and the 570cfm Holley Avenger come with 54 primary jets and 65 secondary equivalency when there is only 30cfm difference between the two carbs.

Would someone please tell me which cam plug to get for my 352 FE block I have bored out to 4.05. I put the Dorman 555-054 in it before with permatex and it ended up leaking. I plan on using a two part epoxy next time but I can't figure out which cam plug to use. The Pioneer EPC-92 is suppose to be 2.390" and I've got a hole of 2.375". What do you guys use. Thanks guys, Jim

Guys,
I'm having a heck of a time with my 410. Last week I went drag racing, everything OK. Drove the car that week, no problem. But, I went to a car show Saturday morning and it fouled a plug on #2 cylinder. I've done a compression check on that bank after running the engine a long time. #1-130lbs, #2 140lbs, #3-130lbs, #4-130lbs. ( I think #2 is high because of oil and crud that wasn't burnt) ( I did compression check with all cylinder plugs out).
The engine vacuum is 17 inches idling at 650 rpm. May fluctuate back and forth from 17-16 1/2 inches, more or less steady. I rev it and it goes to @8 inches and then to 26 inches before settling back on 17. Plug is always wet and when you take it down the road high vacuum on deceleration draws oil into cylinder and then burns it when you accelerate again. It will idle showing no smoke out the exhaust but when you put in under load it acts as if I've got bad rings. Changed wires and distributor cap, plugs too.
I called Edelbrock and ask them if they had trouble with valve seals popping off and they said it was unlikely. Cars got about 20K miles on it and @60 drag races. HELP. What do you think.

I replaced my differential yoke for one that fit a 1350 U-joint this winter. It's leaked ever since. When I ordered the new yoke from Moser they said just take the pinion housing out, install the new yoke and tighten the nut down to 250 ft. lbs torque. Moser claimed it was no big deal.
The oil leak believe it or not is coming through the yoke splines and around the nut. The pinion seal is good.

When I replaced the differential yoke I held the yoke in a vice and used a breaker bar with water pipe extension on it to tighten it down until I felt a small drag on the rotation of the pinion. Since I was coming off the floor to get that done with the breaker bar and water pipe extension I figured I was in the ball park. BUT, today when I took it out the nut broke loose with a small amount of effort using just the breaker bar. In other words the nut was loose. Now, Moser wants me to take the whole center section out and bring it to them to inspect the pinion housing and apply the right amount of torque on the nut. That seems weird since the only thing wrong is the pinion housing and they don't use a crush but a solid spacer on them.

One of the things that concerns me is a hole in the housing (before the O-ring seal that allows oil to lube the bearings. Moser claims it doesn't matter where this hole in located (top, bottom, or side) when installed in the center section. To me, this is probably where the oil is coming from that is leaking through the splines of the yoke. Where this hole is located should be relevant.

My plans are to find someone with a 250 ft. lb torque wrench and put it back together since the pinion seal is good. Have you guys had any experience that might help me here.

Hello guys,
   As some of you know I've been fighting an oil leak and it's going to get fixed in the next 30 days. My machinist owns a garage and he's going to do it for me. While I've got it out I'm putting .038 Edelbrock head gaskets on it (I found a small amount of antifreeze in the oil leak) and I'm going to put the original rocker stands and drip trays on it. I'm sticking with the 1.76 rockers (the rockers and shafts are new). I'm also getting rid of the windage tray ( About .200" of gasket material to use it). The new cam I'm putting in is the 268H comp cam. That will peak my horsepower around 4500 rpm instead of 5000 rpm and give me more torque and HP to 4500rpm. (it'll also give me more confidence in the original rocker configuration).
MY QUESTION IS THIS: Comp Cams says the 268H cam will work good with 9.25 Static Compression. Has anyone used this cam with only 9.25 CR and what was your experience?

Has anyone used Mickey Thompson ET Street bias ply slicks W/0 tube. If so, what did you use to help seal the tires ( dish soap, tire sealant etc.) and would you tell me your experience with them holding air. These are going on steel rims w/bolted valve stems. It's not like I won't be carrying an air tank with me and they'll see no street use. Thanks guys, Jim