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« on: March 26, 2020, 01:47:21 PM »
I did several OEM 427 blocks in the distant past. Although the material used was called a "machine grout" and was very similar to the Moroso product, mine actually contained particles of cast iron. I used tap water and did the mixing (50% of dry product/side) in a five gallon bucket and poured only one side of the block while permitting it to harden for 12 hours before proceeding with the remaining side. It seems critical to get the block deck level in both planes and it certainly helps to have some method of "vibrating" the side of the block you are working on to assure there are no air pockets. I used a automotive pneumatic hammer by fabricating an aluminum slug, approximately 3"dia x 2"thick center-drilled 1"deep, to receive a cut-down chisel shaft that fit the hammer receiver. I don't have an answer to your question re.cylinder rust: if you mean external to the cast cylinder, I don't know as I have never removed the grout from any block I've filled. I DO NOT agree that you can fill a block and be confident that everything will be round and true. The method I employed involved pouring one side, hammering out the air followed by immediately installing a head gasket plus torque plate and torque to spec.. I always allowed at least five days curing time before honing to desired finish and size; obviously, this method is best if you have access to two honing plates. You will need to have everything organized so that, once you begin the mixing process, you can proceed as expeditiously as possible; curing begins rather quickly, depending on ambient conditions. Good luck.