Those H/M valve covers in Brent's picture are very FE looking and without the H/M logo, they would be great looking on any vehicle with a FE.

On edit, Jay a valve cover like the CJ but with a .300-.400 taller top to fit over the roller rocker arms from T&D, Jessel, HS, etc. would be very cool.   Joe-JDC

At that power level and cubic inch, stay with the Stage II heads.  The ones I have flowed are in the 330+cfm range, and for the price the additional flow with Stage III heads would only help with a camshaft over .700" lift.  Also, the larger ports would more than likely be down on torque for any street duty. JMO, but you asked. Joe-JDC

I bought two of the Edel 14053s with two tuning kits for dyno testing.  My intakes are the Edelbrock 255 8V, and Ford ECG-D 8V, both of which I have extensively ported and flow balanced as much as possible.  I have spacers matched to the intakes, and hopefully they will perform as well as the Mummert 4V, or better.  The Edelbrock 255 that I ported for Ted Eaton's intake shootout series made the best power over all the other 8V intakes tested, before the new Mummert TR.  Joe-JDC 

The ports are enlarged to compensate for the tube, but you could fill the floors by cleaning them, roughing them up to give the epoxy a rough texture to cling to, and fill the floors at least a half inch all the way to the short turn.  You can do that by running a piece of wide tape all the way across the face of the head, and doubling it for strength, then tilting the head so that the short turn is level with the top of the tape.  Fill each port until they run over the short turn, and let set up.  Do both heads the same way.  After the epoxy takes a hard set, you can shape it anyway you desire, and I would recommend a rough (36-40 grit) or even use a carbide, or stone,  to rough up the intake ports.  Do not polish them.  If you know someone who can port them, they can actually fill the ports more and increase the short turn height, giving a much faster velocity and actually increase the flow potential of the heads.   I have ported several sets of heads for other brands of engines that flow in the 280-290 cfm range that make ~600 hp, so the TP is capable of much more with some matching of parts.  Joe-JDC

Jay:  On the venturi, I was referring to the two carb spacers he is using for placement of the carbs.  The typical 4150/4160 Holleys are 1 3/4" butterflies.  Also, with a round port, you only need ~80% of the valve diameter for optimum flow which would 1.800" inches, or just over 1 3/4" intake runner size at the head opening/intake exit.  Anything more than that will lose velocity and be down on torque until the rpms build enough to keep the velocity strong.  I recently watched a dyno test of a Cleveland that had killer CHI heads, and an intake that was large enough to literally stick your arm down the ports.  The dyno operator tried everything he knew how to load the engine at 34-3500 rpms, and it simply would die because the airflow was too slow to take the load.  Even went up to 4500 rpm and still no loading.  Worked on the tune, worked on the ignition, worked on the EFI, and had two Super Flow technicians try every trick in the book to get good clean pulls.  Two days wasted.  Installed a different Cleveland with CHI heads, smaller intake, and instant 750+ hp.  My point is that with a stock 427 TP, or even 454 TP, those ports are going to be lazy until the rpms come up.  Your 585 SOHC with a 2.350/2.400/2.450 intake valve would be just about perfect at 1.960-2.000" tubes at head entrance.  JMO, but that is my past experience.  Joe-JDC

I raced a '63 center oiler 427 block at 452 cubic inches in my '69 Mach I for many years using the two bolt holes and a strap on the left front of the block.  Grade 8 bolts through the motor mounts with double nuts, and no more broken motor mounts or vibrations.  Never broke the block or mount.  Joe-JDC

Are they really TFS, or did they CNC those Chinese copies of the Edelbrock heads?  Joe-JDC

Sounds like you have way too much compression for 91 octane gasoline, and your timing is advancing too much.  A quick check would be to fill the tank with 93-94 octane and see if the knocking/pinging goes away, or is lessened.  If so, then you need to totally re-curve, re-time your engine and use only the best gasoline.  Joe-JDC