Thanks for the complements! It's turning out better than I had expected. A couple weeks ago I purchased a 36" metal brake and a sheet of 18 gauge steel. I made the last missing piece of the firewall with the brake. To my surprise it was easier, and turned out better than I had expected for my first attempt at making a patch panel from scratch. I finished fixing the cab mount frame bracket, and welding and grinding on the floor pan. The cab mount is installed and the cab is finally sitting the way it should! The next step is replacing the outer floor supports and making a couple corner floor pieces above the supports, then I'll call the cab done for now.

Val406 thanks for the color information, I'll have to look into it some more. It's possible the paint code will be listed in the Marti report as well.

Passenger side is starting to look like something again. I still have to make a couple small firewall sections, then ill install the cab mount.

That's a pretty clean looking truck,  I've always liked the camper special tool box on the side. I never understood why that didn't catch on more and become an option on the newer trucks.

I've been slowly working on repairing the firewall and cab mounts. I haven't done a lot of body work so a lot of this is new to me and it's kind of slow going. I cut out the patch pannels I needed for the firewall along with the cab mounts. I sand blasted the mounts and firewall pieces then painted the insides of the cab mounts. I also recieved the floor pans and inner rockers, unfortunately the LMC inner rockers are wrong and look to fit 1973-1979 trucks but not even close to the 1967-1972s. The channel that the weather strip sits in is nearly a half inch taller then what it should be, and the rear where it kicks up has a protruding triangle stamping that should be flat. Unfortunately LMC is the only company to offer inner rockers so I'll either have to do a lot of cutting and welding on them, or see if I can salvage sections out of a rusty scrap truck I have. I really only needed a small section so I wasn't planning on using the entire pannel anyway. I decided to start on the slightly less rusty side, after I cut out the rusty firewall section and cab mount, I found some more rust by the floor vent where it meets the pinch weld seam. I cut out another patch section and welded it in. I sand blasted the inside of the air vent box and the pinch weld seems then primed and painted. I managed to get the firewall section fitted and welded in, but ran out of time tonight to get the cab mount welded in. Last week I ordered inner fenders, core support, and rubber cab mounts with hardware from Dennis Carpenter, so as soon as I get the cab fixed it should be ready for reassembly.

Lurking I was and I finally succeeded in logging back in! I've known about the CN truck for a few years and had been trying to buy it from my uncle ever since I saw it. It was last registered in 1985 and was sitting in a field with a tree growing through the front end. Last weekend I was able to make a deal and we extracted it from the field. Plans for now are to just fix what's needed and get it driving again. I have a decent running 4 barrel 390 with C6 that came out of a 76 f250 that I scrapped out a few years ago that I plan to put in for the time being. I have a nice 1967 grille with brush guard that will be installed as well. It needs the usual cab mounts floor pans, core support, and inner fenders, some of which I have laying around, over all it's pretty rough but savable. I do plan on getting the Marti report, but was able to decipher some of the information on the data plate using the information on the fordification website. I know it's a 2x4 style side truck that came from the Ontario Canada plant, was built in June 1970, came with a 2 barrel 360 and c6 with a dana 60 4.10 listed as T.S. locking. The exterior color was left blank but the color in the door jams looks like calypso coral even though that color wasn't available on a truck until 1971. The DSO code is interesting and doesn't seem to match any of the listed locations. The model number and GVW also don't seem to match any of the listed options. I  found a couple of old cab cards laying on the floor, the one from 1971 is still readable. I'll try to post updates as the project continues. Here are a couple pictures of where it was the first time we saw it, along with the cab card, and grille that I have set aside for it.

The 390 GT engine was a pretty anemic engine, and didn't do Ford's reputation any good back in the 60s.  I'm not sure where you come up with the intake and exhaust manifolds limiting power on the engine to 275 HP though; can you explain your reasoning?  I don't think that the stock HP ratings are unachievable with the S intake and the 390 GT exhaust manifolds, although I can't say I've ever dynoed a stock 390 GT engine.

I only have good dyno data on one stock bore/stroke 390; almost all the people that I know who've built these engines turn to a stroker kit, for the reasons that you specified in your post.  The 390 I tested had C6AE-R heads that were given a mild porting job, so that they flowed about like 428CJ heads.  It had a 270S Comp solid cam, Performer RPM intake, a 600 cfm carb, and the truck headers.  It made just at 400 HP and 440 lb-ft of torque.

Jay I believe you are talking about my motor, if so Im actually running  C8AE-H Truck heads from a 360 out of a 72 half ton truck, It was a little more then a mild port job though. I found my flow sheets and my Intake flow number on the one port with the little bump up in it was 242.40cfm at 0.500 lift, we aren't exactly sure how much that bump affects the flow but we were guessing the others were around 248cfm at 0.500, I was hoping he was going to flow them closer to 0.600 lift because as fast as the numbers rose as lift increased they would have probably flowed 248-250cfm just by increasing the lift 0.050 even on the bad port.
The Exhaust flowed 206.72cfm at 0.500 lift, and probably would have been closer to 212cfm.  We could have gotten more out of them with a little more port work but this is where we stopped. This was also using the stainless steel 428 Edelbrock valves and springs, These are the ones that came in the Performer RPM heads, then I did a 3 angle grind on the intakes and a two angle grind on the exhaust valves. My Iron truck heads flow about the same as stock aluminum Edelbrock performer RPM heads on the intake and the exhaust actually flows better then the performer heads.

I would really like to know what the HP numbers are now with the Holley 830 Annular carb. Switching from the 600 double pump to the 830 was a pretty noticeable difference along with better throttle response and slightly better gas mileage when driving nice, its not even properly tuned yet, just bolt on strait out of the box and it doesn't seem to run rich even on the warm days, infact it was running a bit lean when it was cooler out. Do you still have my dyno data with your 750, or was it the 800? I never got copies of my dyno sheets.

I had thought about canceling my comp cam order and using yours and the 4 correct melling rods but Sean said to keep all the melling rods because hes pretty sure we can get our money back. At this point i just want to make sure i have enough of the correct rods here so i can get the motor put back together early this weekend, that and i really dont want to put any of the melling rods correct or not back into my motor.

Well Ill start off by saying what I have. 405hp 390 with a 270s Comp Cam, solid lifters with melling MPR-78 push rods, stock adjustable rockers and rocker shafts with end stands.
So on saturday I went to take the truck into town like every weekend, got into town, started accelerating around a corner, 1500-2000rpm not getting on it at all, then all the sudden POP POP POP POP through the carb. Thought it was possibly a broken valve spring, so dad pulled me home. Got home pulled the valve covers to find that the exhaust side push rod on cyl 5 had a broken cup and the rocker was sliding along side of the push rod, intake valve on cyl 5 got bent from trying to open with a pressurized cylinder. So we got to looking at it further and It appears that the ball on the stock rocker arms do not sit all the way down in the melling push rod cups. They seem to ride really high up on the sides of the cup instead of sitting down in them causing them to crack. the only two push rods in my motor that are cracked are the two on cyl 5 but all the other ones appear to be riding high on the rod cups as well. Im not exactly sure what is going on, even the ball end of the melling rods do not sit all the way down in the cup ends of the rods, I tried to take a picture of the ball of the melling rod sitting high on the cup of the broken rod. On the broken one it does sit lower just because half the cup is gone but it still sits really high up. Has anyone else had this kind of problem with these rods? I have two replacements already but I don't want to put it all back together with these rods only to have this happen again in an embarrassing environment, I took the intake off and found the broken pieces, but would like to find a good solution to this. The motor doesn't even have 2,500 miles on it and the rev limiter is set at 5,800rpm so it doesn't really get over revved, and its not like I bounce it off limiter, it has hit it a few times but not for very long. Here are some pictures of the broken and bent rods, If you look close you can also see the wear mark on the cups where the ball is riding along with the crack.