Line Lock on a Mustang...

[Barry_R]

I stuck mine in front of the shock tower.  Just bent up some lines & ran them alongside the fender edge.
Might not be as pretty - but easier to do.

[cjshaker]

That's how I was originally thinking about doing it, Barry. It looks like your Hurst unit doesn't have plugs in the unused holes? What gives with that?

I think I'll go ahead and remove the stock stuff and just route my own system in its place, just because I like to keep the engine bay tidy. Thanks for all the responses everyone.

[Barry_R]

That's how I was originally thinking about doing it, Barry. It looks like your Hurst unit doesn't have plugs in the unused holes? What gives with that?

Stopping is over-rated.



Allen plugs....

[FElony]

My logic was the combination of front discs and skinny tires could cause a lockup condition.

I have seen SO many videos of cars that get out of shape and can't be corrected for lack of grip from skinnies. Has anyone ever done A-B ET testing against a wider front tire. It seems to me the safety factor would override whatever less rolling resistance/weight gets you. I get this is crucial in a class car, but anything else?

[afret]

Hey it isn't just the rolling resistance.  It's the weight.  On my street car I have 15x5 Draglites and skinny M/T Sportsman front tires.  I think they're quite a bit lighter than what a lot of these cars have on the street.  I wonder how much a 235/60-15 tire and steel wheel combo weighs?

Just picked up a pair of 15x3 1/2 wheels and Hoosier race tires for track use which are 10 lbs lighter (tire and wheel only weighs 20 lbs)  for a total loss of 20 lbs.  You can move the 20 lbs to the back instead to help the car hook.

[FElony]

Hey it isn't just the rolling resistance.  It's the weight.  On my street car I have 15x5 Draglites and skinny M/T Sportsman front tires.  I think they're quite a bit lighter than what a lot of these cars have on the street.  I wonder how much a 235/60-15 tire and steel wheel combo weighs?

Just picked up a pair of 15x3 1/2 wheels and Hoosier race tires for track use which are 10 lbs lighter (tire and wheel only weighs 20 lbs)  for a total loss of 20 lbs.  You can move the 20 lbs to the back instead to help the car hook.

I did mention weight in my post, but my question revolves around safety in, say, a bracket car where every little hundredth isn't as critical. Pop open a beer and...

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_type=search_videos&search_query=dragstrip+crashes

[afret]

It also might have a lot to do with having the right look of a drag car. 

[FElony]

It also might have a lot to do with having the right look of a drag car. 

Ahaaaaaaaaa!!! There it is. Looks over function. CRASH those puppies!

[mike7570]

I need to mount mine also (eventually) thanks for the ideas.
I always thought the proportioning valve needs to go to the rears to be able to reduce line pressure. If you lock the fronts a little the car usually pushes straight (too much smoke dumping the other guy will get you DQ, LOL) If you lock the rears it can swap ends pretty quickly (not good)
Afret what size are the Hoosier fronts? I was thinking of using a 26" tall tire, those look to be 28" maybe?

Here is a good read regarding braking and what was ultimately wrong with car : http://classracer.com/classforum/showthread.php?t=53637&highlight=fletcher+locks+brakes

[afret]

Afret what size are the Hoosier fronts? I was thinking of using a 26" tall tire, those look to be 28" maybe?

These are 27".  The stocker has 28" fronts and the street car has the 28" Sportsman tires but I think they might be a bit shorter than that with not much clearance.  The new front skinny wheels have less backspacing so I decided to just get the 27" ones to be safe.

[Posi67]

Here is a good read regarding braking and what was ultimately wrong with car : http://classracer.com/classforum/showthread.php?t=53637&highlight=fletcher+locks+brakes

I remember that when it first happened and just re-read the story and didn't see anything regarding the car being at fault. Maybe a defective front caliper but it appears to be mostly driver error by hitting the brakes too hard. That's gone on forever in the dial in classes and the reason NHRA has a rule against excessive braking which I'm sure you know.

The other difference is a lot of those cars are converted to disc/disc whereas a disc/drum setup gets the majority of it's braking from the front wheels. That's why I chose to limit the front pressure and not the back. Even the guys at Wilwood thought I had a logical plan when I called and asked. As it is now, the prop valve is gone and I don't miss it.   

All I know is I'm comfortable with how my car stops and how I drive it. The odds of my rears locking up before the fronts is less than zero even with oversize brakes on the back.

[FElony]

Somewhat related (if you squint real hard), does anybody know the current NHRA track rule about running poverty caps?

[Posi67]

I'm sure it hasn't changed and that means no hubcaps. The tech wants to see if you have all your nuts in place and they don't want to see errant hubcaps rolling down the track. 

[FElony]

I'm sure it hasn't changed and that means no hubcaps. The tech wants to see if you have all your nuts in place and they don't want to see errant hubcaps rolling down the track.

After trying to deal with a succession of dysfunctional females over the last few years, I can safely say that my nuts are not in place. They have, in fact, retreated upwards for their own safety.

I've been perusing some Pure Stock and F.A.S.T. videos, but they appear to be run at non-NHRA tracks. I have Centerlines on the Montego now, but I bought some new 15x6 and 15x8 steelies, and would prefer to run my Mercury poverties. Anyway, no skinnies for me. Redlines on black steel for the musclecar look.

[jayb]

I have seen SO many videos of cars that get out of shape and can't be corrected for lack of grip from skinnies. Has anyone ever done A-B ET testing against a wider front tire. It seems to me the safety factor would override whatever less rolling resistance/weight gets you. I get this is crucial in a class car, but anything else?

I apologize in advance for pitching you an easy one, but I can go both ways on this    On my Mach 1 I like to keep the stock look, and run Magnum 500s all the way around, with 15X7 fronts and 235/60-15 front tires.  On my Shelby clone I run fairly skinny tires and wheels, 15X4 Centerlines with Mickey Thompson skinnys.  I have noticed almost no difference in how the cars handle on the track, in terms of steering and recovery.  The only time I've come close to hitting the wall was in my Mach 1, when I got out of the groove with my supercharged engine and wasn't able to get traction.  I had been trying to stay in it to save the run (it was a licensing pass), which I learned that day was a mistake.  Once you are out of the groove, get off the throttle immediately.  My view is that most of those videos showing cars out of control come from people trying to stay on the throttle in that situation.

If you want to be stylin' going down the track, run whatever front tires and wheels you want.  If you are trying to extract best ET and max MPH, the weight savings and improved weight transfer with the skinnys up front will pay significant dividends.