More "long story short"?...... I'm so glad you asked! OK so After installing a brand new IAC stepper motor. It helped a little, but I was still getting the rough idle (in the low range of 400 to 500 rpm). This is always after the IAC is set when engine was warmed up and the TPS recalibrated.... Cold start the next day, and it always happens.
Installed the MSD Capacitor on the MSD Box. Prior to the install, with the Aluminum shielding tape used, I was getting IRM (Electrical noise) of only occasionally (3). But almost always it was at 0. With the Capacitor installed, it seemed to stay at (0). But still..... Rough Idle.
While the rough idle is occurring (when engine was cold), I would check on the IRM screen, and it would still be at absolute (0).
So in the end, it was not engine noise..... and it was not a bad IAC stepper motor.
The last time I started the car for the tests above, I noticed that there was little bits of fuel that were working their way up the vacuum line to the Auto Meter Vacuum gauge. How in the world is fuel going AGAINST vacuum?? LOL
Called the Auto Meter people and they said, "Not Sure, Call the People at FAST"
Called FAST during my lunch break today to discuss the fuel going up my vacuum line (even though the vacuum gauge is working and registering vacuum).... He had no clue and made a good point..... "That goes against all physics!" Its been years now of talking to the fast techs, so I always like to keep throwing my usual issues at them as an, "Oh by the way.... I also have been experiencing...."
Today I told him how the vacuum gauge registers like 7" to 8". The guy literally busted out laughing! It was contagious (even though I was on the butt end.... or so it felt like). He explained that 8" is the stopping point for this system. 8" and below, and the system will JUST NOT WORK! They always require 10" or more. So I asked him, "Can you tell me exactly what are the symptoms of too low manifold vacuum"? And he went on to explain that if there wasn't at least 10", you would go through the computer to set your IAC, and it would run well when hot (possibly as vacuum increased a tiny bit when the engine heated up) and then when you go to start the car the next day, the IAC would be way off because you were not meeting the vacuum requirements for the system to work
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He also stated that it may run to rich! and possibly running rich may cause fuel to back up into the vacuum port I am using for reference on the Gauge.
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I private messaged Jay a few hours ago, but after I hit send, I wasn't quite sure what answer I wanted him to give LOL In the end, even if I screwed with the initial timing to get the idle vacuum up a bit, I would be just at the cusp of what the system requires and also now would be at a point with ignition timing that was not ideal as Jay tested it on the Dyno.
I did it...... I bit the bullet and ordered the Fitech Power Adder 2 X 4 EFI system. As stated a few pages ago (Back in December), you have the ability to lock out the Distributor if you wanted and control timing through the computer, or not! It also has 4 settings for your cam at initial set up. Cam setting 4 is for Wild cams with between 4" to 6" of vacuum. So perfect for this car as I get about 7" to 8" at idle out of gear in park lol.
As upset as I am with the FAST EZ EFI system for not working, I have to give it some credit for running and driving for the last year or so that I have been using it. I am going to uninstall it, package the whole system up nicely, and I am going to list it for sale on this site in the classified section soon. 2 throttle bodies, upgraded touch screen handheld controller, original handheld controller, ECU, the Coolant temp sensor, the Wideband 02 sensor ... the whole kit and caboodle!
I will let you all know when the new system arrives :0)