Author Topic: 208 hp 352  (Read 18360 times)

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blykins

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Re: Help with Camshaft selection for a 482 Dual Quad EFI Power Brakes
« Reply #30 on: December 03, 2018, 11:20:22 AM »
I'd stick another solid roller in it.  Save you some bucks, would run your brakes, would help your MPG. 
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
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TimeWarpF100

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275 hp 352
« Reply #31 on: December 03, 2018, 11:21:59 AM »
275 hp 352
« Last Edit: December 11, 2018, 06:46:06 PM by TimeWarpF100 »

TimeWarpF100

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275 hp 352
« Reply #32 on: December 03, 2018, 11:23:56 AM »
275 hp 352
« Last Edit: December 11, 2018, 06:46:21 PM by TimeWarpF100 »

blykins

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Re: Help with Camshaft selection for a 482 Dual Quad EFI Power Brakes
« Reply #33 on: December 03, 2018, 11:31:47 AM »
If you're looking at an off-the-shelfer, I don't think you're gonna get there without changing valve springs.  A Comp 288R would be the closest, but it's got way more lift than your current camshaft.

I'd be looking at a custom, 284/284, 244/244 @ .050", 112 LSA, 108 ICL, .588" lift. 

Should be able to use same valve springs, same lifters, same pushrods, etc.   Overlap goes down to 60 from 78.  That gives you plenty of vacuum, should help fuel economy since you're not pushing all your air/gas out the exhaust.
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com
www.customfordcams.com
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machoneman

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Re: Help with Camshaft selection for a 482 Dual Quad EFI Power Brakes
« Reply #34 on: December 03, 2018, 11:48:05 AM »
Sounds like you've driven it enough to determine your not getting 100% out of those big brakes. True?

I ask since with an electric pump and a reservoir, you should be getting that 100%.

Have you checked the reservoir's vac, level after a short drive (gauge to the tank, even temporarily)?

Is a one-way check valve in place between the OEM booster (assuming it's still in place) and the reservoir?

Have you tried to check brake line hydraulic pressure, mainly the fronts? This does require a very hi-pressure gauge.

Do you still have an OEM proportioning valve? Generally, they should be gutted and an in-line adjustable prop. valve added.





"Biggest issue is the 8 MPG but yes brakes an issue also. I did add a Electric Vacuum pump and reservoir which helped but surely not enough to make good use of the large 14" 6p brakes."
Bob Maag

TimeWarpF100

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275 hp 352
« Reply #35 on: December 03, 2018, 12:56:42 PM »
275 hp 352
« Last Edit: December 11, 2018, 06:46:40 PM by TimeWarpF100 »

cjshaker

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Re: Help with Camshaft selection for a 482 Dual Quad EFI Power Brakes
« Reply #36 on: December 03, 2018, 12:59:57 PM »
At 10.5 compression, and dropping the overlap back 17 degrees to 60, I'd also be concerned about fuel quality and detonation becoming an issue.
Not trying to be an arse, but when you say you have 5 projects on the back burner, how can money be the driving issue? A few hundred dollars more to make things "right" seems the better choice. JMO
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
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blykins

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Re: Help with Camshaft selection for a 482 Dual Quad EFI Power Brakes
« Reply #37 on: December 03, 2018, 01:26:31 PM »
At 10.5 compression, and dropping the overlap back 17 degrees to 60, I'd also be concerned about fuel quality and detonation becoming an issue.
Not trying to be an arse, but when you say you have 5 projects on the back burner, how can money be the driving issue? A few hundred dollars more to make things "right" seems the better choice. JMO

Doug, we'd still be in the "safe" area with cylinder pressure.  That's one of those things that we have to do the math on when we pick new cams.
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com
www.customfordcams.com
502-759-1431
Instagram:  brentlykinsmotorsports
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TimeWarpF100

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275 hp 352
« Reply #38 on: December 03, 2018, 01:58:39 PM »
275 hp 352
« Last Edit: December 11, 2018, 06:47:06 PM by TimeWarpF100 »

fekbmax

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Re: Help with Camshaft selection for a 482 Dual Quad EFI Power Brakes
« Reply #39 on: December 03, 2018, 07:17:48 PM »
Glad to see the cam wasn't originally speckled for that combo.
I had used cam research several times in the late 90's early 2000's and was pleased with them.
Keith.  KB MAX Racing.

TimeWarpF100

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275 hp 352
« Reply #40 on: December 03, 2018, 07:18:27 PM »
275 hp 352
« Last Edit: December 11, 2018, 06:47:34 PM by TimeWarpF100 »

TimeWarpF100

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275 hp 352
« Reply #41 on: December 03, 2018, 07:25:41 PM »
275 hp 352 so far.
« Last Edit: December 11, 2018, 06:47:51 PM by TimeWarpF100 »

cjshaker

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Re: Help with Camshaft selection for a 482 Dual Quad EFI Power Brakes
« Reply #42 on: December 03, 2018, 07:36:16 PM »
Doug, we'd still be in the "safe" area with cylinder pressure.  That's one of those things that we have to do the math on when we pick new cams.

I figured you'd be on top of that, Brent. Just pointing out the obvious ;)
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

My427stang

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Re: Help with Camshaft selection for a 482 Dual Quad EFI Power Brakes
« Reply #43 on: December 03, 2018, 09:35:35 PM »
If you're looking at an off-the-shelfer, I don't think you're gonna get there without changing valve springs.  A Comp 288R would be the closest, but it's got way more lift than your current camshaft.

I'd be looking at a custom, 284/284, 244/244 @ .050", 112 LSA, 108 ICL, .588" lift. 

Should be able to use same valve springs, same lifters, same pushrods, etc.   Overlap goes down to 60 from 78.  That gives you plenty of vacuum, should help fuel economy since you're not pushing all your air/gas out the exhaust.

This is a perfect match IMHO, I wouldn't even second guess it unless you really want hyd roller. 

A couple of things up front.  I wasn't saying you need to change your intake or your gearing, those were only icing on the cake to make it more efficient.  Your issue is a lack of tuning combined with a cam that is far from ideal for the engine

Some areas I think you really need to get to know. 

Timing - Your initial timing is off 5 or so degrees, which means everything is off maybe more, maybe less, maybe the same amount.  Regardless, most systems have a feature to sync the screen with the light. Then you get good data from the system.  Then you can set total to what your combo wants and try all kinds of curves

Cam selection - looks like you should be on Cam 3, not sure where you are

IAC - generally throttle blades are adjusted for a desired IAC value, that gives a window for adjustment cold or hot

Throttle position - You have initial settings for a TPS, they tell the computer starting position for the blades, if you adjust blades you have to reset TPS so it knows idle and WOT, that needs to be done initially and any time you touch an idle screw on the TB with the IAC

Finally desired AFR for different things - Here's the deal, you can do much better with the cam you have, like I said looks like you would select "Cam 3" from the profile.  However, it will never be perfect with so much overlap, but you may get significantly better.

If it were me, I would download directions from FITech, live on their forums, get to know the tricks and tweaks for a dual quad system and tune like crazy.  If you can't get there, then do the cam.  Then retune again.  I will tell you this, the right tune with the right cam, will be a completely different engine than what you likely have now.  Mileage will go up and power will go up while being more docile than ever when you and mama are cruising

If you need a hard copy of the instructions, contact FITech, but get to know initial setup, do some running logs, and put the old nugget to work, its a HUGE payoff as you are already seeing with just a timing tweak

I sure would love to see you go with Brent's cam, or even milder if you go hyd roller.  Sorry about my recommendation error on lobes, the values were close but I was looking on the wrong page of the catalog, post surgery brain apparently I picked solid flat lobes instead of solid roller, but back in the game and Brent got to tease me by text a little to boot :)

---------------------------------
Ross
Bullock's Power Service, LLC
- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, Victor, SEFI, Erson SFT cam, TKO-600 5 speed, 4.11 9 inch.
- 71 F100 shortbed 4x4, 461 cid FE, headers, Victor Pro-flo EFI, Comp Custom HFT cam, 3.50 9 inch

WerbyFord

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Re: Help with Camshaft selection for a 482 Dual Quad EFI Power Brakes
« Reply #44 on: December 03, 2018, 10:58:18 PM »
Glad to see the cam wasn't originally speckled for that combo.
I had used cam research several times in the late 90's early 2000's and was pleased with them.

Right now it runs surprisingly well with current tune.
I just need to learn where to go with tune next.
Prob hundreds of parameters I can change/tweak.

No doubt a proper cam made for my combo would be a huge improvement

But driveability now is quite good.

Tempted a before and after session on the chassis Dyno.

No WOT yet but it’s time. Seat of the pants feels pretty strong partial throttle up to 3500 about my max RPM so far.

Based on your comment ~"most of its time at 2000-2500rpm"

* What is your stall, MEASURED? (standing still, hard on the brakes, floor it for 2-3 seconds, no more. What does the  tach read?

Based on wanting to mostly cruise at 2000-2500 and wanting good MPG, you want stall to be LESS than your cruise RPM.
Seems a stock stall 1900-2000 converter would do just fine.

Cam will probably be too big for that. Based on your other words I'd go even SMALLER on the cam than Ross/Brent suggested.
Solids idle a lot smoother than hyd cams, I'd go for a 110-112 LSA but duration about 220 hyd, 230 solid, that range.
I know, that's small but I'm just reading what you've written.

And as I think Ross noted, ditch that T-wedge for a dual plane intake.

PRoblem now will be the 10.5 CR, it might work with alum heads & blocked heat riser if you can keep it cool ie 180 F. Maybe.

But before any of that  - I'd just keep tuning it like you're doing - at 3500, that's probably below peak torq!
You're not even in the power band yet!
Turn that thing to 5000-5500 and all your worries about MPG and idle vacuum will likely vanish.

For power brakes, what about a vacuum pump or reservoir?

In any case I'd measure the stall next if you haven't already.