Car dies when I give it gas

[428Marauder]

The car itself is like a unicorn. 1965 Mecury Park Lane in, a Mercury only color, "Tiffany Blue" with a black convertible top. Now, they made a out 3000 total, 65 Park Lane Convertibles, it's estimated a third were bucket seat versions, that's really the only breakdown ... So many lost records,,you can't get a marti report on a 65 Merc. So, I tink there were 2005 split bench versions, most of those would be black, red, white and what are you left with ... Maybe 5 that were ever made in "Tiffany Blue".

I saved this car, and brought it to Arizona as a rusty POS from the Northwest, because I think it may be the only one left that exists, just based on model and color code. Had a 72 truck motor in it when I got it. Think that motor had a Holley, I shoulda kept it ... but, it's been a long story trying to get this car to run right. The good news, is when I figure it all out, everything else is new.

Had multiple parts cars. 428 came from one. still have one, original z code Marauder fastback. Not rare, white with a red interior. Time capsule. For sale. Seized, original z code 390 super marauder engine. Would be fun to rebuild that motor, period correct for the convertible, but right now, I just want to get her back on the road.

[NIsaacs]

Click on the link attached to my #49 reply, that should do just fine. If you don't need/want the choke, just adjust it full open. I like the Edelbrock carbs, they are priced right, simple and they work.

Nick

[ScotiaFE]

If I was to buy a new carb, say in the $300 or less range, what would you guys suggest?

Probably the cheapest option is a Holley 4160 Aluminum job.
The fuel line hook up will be pretty close to where your fuel line is now
so you should be able to stick it on fairly easy and cheap.
It has a bunch of throttle hook up options on the crank and usually a small bit of
rigging will get you working throttle.
I'm not against Edelbrocks, I'm just not geared up for them so I don't consider them an option.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/search/department/air-fuel-delivery/section/carburetors-accessories/part-type/carburetors/cfm/600/brand/holley?N=4294951509%2B4294949628%2B4294921892%2B4294881237%2B400178&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending

[428Marauder]

Ok, I got the Holley, went ahead and put it in but now I am having a couple issues:

1. if I clip in the kickdown linkage, where I think it goes, I have no play in my throttle cable, gas pedal is too the floor all the time.

2. If I undo the kickdown, even without giving the car gas, it starts, but runs like it is being floored. I did this twice and shut it off right away.

[ScotiaFE]

Feel free to send me pictures at my email and see if we can
get something working for you.

390fairlane@gmail.com

[428Marauder]

Hmmm.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/arizonaclassiccars/16584205709/

[ScotiaFE]

The kick down cable should have no bearing on the idle.
If it is unhooked it should idle at what ever you set it at.
Something is holding the throttle blades open?

[428Marauder]

The kick down cable should have no bearing on the idle.
If it is unhooked it should idle at what ever you set it at.
Something is holding the throttle blades open?

You can see the old spring, in the photo. It clips to a thing with notches in it to make it adjustable. You can also see the unatached kickdown lever in the photo. According to the instructions, I need to "install the transmissin kickdown screw" and then there is a picture, and my carb does not have that screw. Did not come in the bag of parts. And then I am supposed to remove the "lock out screw" and then I am supposed to install the "kickdown spring between the kickdown lever and spring perch."

What kickdown spring?

Also, there seems to be 3 different places to mount the knob screw that the throttle cable clips to. Not sure I have the right hole.

[57ford]

Just joined the site. It has been a few years since I have done much FE work so I am a little rusty. If this car is having trouble at idle and also has a transmission problem is it possible that it has a vacuum line leaking. If it is a larger line near the carb you can usually hear it whistle but if it is near the transmission modulator you won't. If the car will idle with the choke partially closed it means there is  vacuum leak or lack of fuel thru the carb. With the motor running spray all of the vacuum lines and around the base of the carb with carb cleaner. If there is a vacuum leak the motor will change RPM's when you find the leak. Be carefully not to spray the cleaner on plastic or the cars finish.

[machoneman]

Hmmm.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/arizonaclassiccars/16584205709/

Here is what a Ford's carb and trans kickdown (KD) linkage should look like.  You can see the ends of a small spring that holds the KD linkage. Always rig up the throttle cable 1st and only then install the KD linkage. As noted above, the KD linkage should never hold the throttle open...OR....closed.

https://www.supermotors.net/getfile/833526/fullsize/004.jpg

[428Marauder]

I do not have this screw, or this spring. I think I may be missing some parts.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/arizonaclassiccars/16151220853/

[428Marauder]

Ok, I almost got it. I had the tensioner spring in the wrong place and I had to adjust the throttle cable a little bit and I removed the "lock out screw" but apparently I need a "spring and perch kit" in order to get the kickdown correctly installed.

It actually sounds great, and runs a ton better. Seems a little fast, but I am sure that's just an adjustment. Perhaps, what I thought were transmission problems were carb problems all along. Will get that kit and find out.

[NIsaacs]

The picture you posted shows the linkage and return spring just backwards from where it should be. Install the linkage ball in the small hole just below the large hole that your return spring is in. Then attach your return spring to the very bottom hole that your linkage is in now. You will need to loosen your throttle cable housing clamp and adjust the throw to match your throttle peddle.

Nick

[428Marauder]

Ok, runs pretty good, besides the kickdown. Still need that kit. It's almost too fast. i tried adjusting the curb idle screw and noticed no real difference. Needs tuning now. Feels like it wants to go, even when I apply the brakes.

It now, in park seems like it idles fast, but OK in drive, besides that you have to have the brakes down completelly or it wants to go. And now it knda does a sputter when I shut it off. i know the timing can be adjusted by rotating the distributor, runs pretty great, actually, but just, pretty fast. Brakes now seem inadequate. To befair there is a 300 pound c6 trans in the trunk right now. But it's clear now that what I thought were trans problems were actually carb problems. Also means I can sell that spare trans, now that I know what the kickdown issue is. It makes so much sense now! Thanks guys for your help and patience!

There is a number I can call for Holley to help me tune it. With the extra money, I am gonna buy new rear leaf springs. Is that a do it yourself in the gravel job, or should I go to a shop for this one, and do the shocks while I am at it? Not really an FE related question, but in general, does it make it any easier to do the shocks if you do the rear leaf springs at the same time?

[428Marauder]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jml3G3FkTIs

You tell me if it sounds kinda, fast, for lack of a better word. Not that I don't want the car to be fast, because that isn't the problem. Motor that big, make a big heavy car like this fast.

I feel so old. Think I should prolly, "tone it down a little". Does it sound good to you guys?

It is fast, even without the kickdown fully functional.

I feel kinda stupid, been so careful about insulating fuel lines and stuff, trying to make this motor run right with that carb ... like I said, I am not a carb guy, but I am learning.

NOTE: I do not have the electric choke hooked up yet, because I am also not an "electric" guy and the instructions say not to wire it to the coil. Choke? We don't need no stinkin choke, but it's there, and it's electric, so that cost me like $10 more. Figured it's worth it since there is no cable for the manual choke anyway.