FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: sixty9cobra on July 10, 2014, 09:06:14 PM
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Tonight I decided to sit in the car instead of laying under it. I haven't driven it much since the Beaver Springs carnage. I got new perches put on the rear, reinstalled the pumpkin, axles etc. Got a new driveshaft and ujoints, Mark WIlliams yoke. New clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout bearing reinstalled my rebuilt Robbmc starter etc. Rollerized the Z bar and clutch pivot. I also put telflon bushed rod ends on the rest of the clutch rods. While I was at it I put new lenses on the dash and led bulbs to match my cobalt gauges.
So I had a tough day so I wanted to go to the local car thing a few towns away. I got in the car started it pulled out of the driveway it ran fine. By the time I got to the main road it was hesitating every time I shifted, By the time I got it in fourth gear it back fired a few times. I put it in 5th and it felt like it was only running on 4 cylinders. I stopped at the next light to make a u turn and it idled fine but misses and sputters all the time while under light load. I got home and looked at the dist cap and it was a little dirty but the center carbon thingy was missing. So I put an old cap and rotor on and it had no effect what so ever. Im going let it cool off and try it later. I think the coil might be going south. Of course I don't have one to swap out. ANY SUGGESTIONS would be a great help. I goes right to 6500 and burns the tires but sounds like its still sputtering. Update I let it cool off for 3 hrs runs exactly the same.
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I was at Beaver Springs at the fence when you broke. That was tough but looks like it led to plenty of upgrades to the good. Personally I like the weak coil idea, but would also throw in vacuum leak/possible lean condition for the backfire and fuel delivery/quality (assuming your replacement used cap was OK).
Guess I'd start by breaking out some gages and the timing light and go with a methodical tuneup approach to help sort it out. General stuff I know, but there are sure plenty of possibilities at this point. Good luck at getting to the root of it.
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May want to consider a compression test, sometimes a driveline failure can do goofy things as the engine comes unloaded in a hurry.
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Ross It has 200 miles on it since. It doesn't feel like its hurt.
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You didn't mention what type of ignition your running but I've had similar sounding issues with my old dual point Mallory. It sounds like your headed down the right path with troubleshooting the ignition though. Check the fuel system maybe? Might be leaning out at high rpm?
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Fuel vent in tank blocked? Partial vapor lock?
Never did this before the carnage? Did the steel fuel line get clipped/nicked and severely necked down?
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MSD 6al, MSD dist locked at 36 deg, MSD wires, fuel pressure 5 or 6 psi.
Mechanical fuel pump. I'm going to pull the carb when I get home and look at the primary . The back fire- pop makes me think ignition but I could be wrong.
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Hi Harry any news?
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I haven't had a chance to look at it, too much yard work and overtime at work. Have to take over time when you can get it and it's usually in the summer when you don't want to work.
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I took the carb apart tonight and its spotless. I will order a new blaster coil, cap and rotor and hope for the best. I found the carbon button in the dist it was not bothering anything. If its not the coil its the 7al or the dist. It did run fine for the first 3 mins and then started its blubbering. While I was warming it up i could hear an almost popping like a fouled plug kinda sound. but I know its not a fouled plug. we will see hopefully it shows up Friday.
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Could also be a vacuum leak that appears once the engine warms up. Intake gasket make? Not the dreaded Fel-Pro Printo-o-Seals?
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m41/convincor/Fail-Pro%20Printo-Leak/000_1328.jpg
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definitely not a vacuum leak the wideband looks ok. No printo seals with pro port heads. The gaskets that Barry R have look like floor tile.
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I got it fixed it tonight finally
I went to change the coil out with the new one and found the positive wire pinched under the valve cover. I was pretty sure that was the problem so I repaired the wire and test drove it. It had the same symptom ran good till I got a few blocks and was missing and surging, I went home and replaced the coil with the same result. I replaced the cap and rotor no difference. I replaced the coil wire same thing. My neighbor came over and offered me his msd tester which was in his race car trailer across town. Long story it sat at 9000rpm on the tester didn't miss a beat. The last thing to change was the plugs. Guess what problem solved. I never had plugs behave like that before. One of them had the center electrode worn below the ceramic. He was all over my shit about that. We test drove it and it ran great. After he left I went to look at the plug and they all looked good. Upon closer inspection one had the electrode loose that would slide from .040 to .200 or .300. Well it got a good tune up at least.
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Glad you got it fixed, Harry. That is an oddball problem, with a variation in the plug gap, for sure. Never heard that one before...
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New one to me too, never saw an electrode drop out. Then you say to your self ( this could only happen to me LOL).
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Out of curiosity, what brand of plugs were they? That's a strange quality problem, good thing the electrode couldn't just fall out.
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Go figure, it's rewarding when you finally find the problem, and it's usually something simple,(plugs?) Probably the last thing I would have thought to check.
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They were autolites 3932 and they have been in there quite a while, I will have to give them credit.
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That is strange especially since in my experience a badly made plug shows up right away, not after many miles. Good catch!