Starter for 73 truck with headers powermaster didnt work

[Rory428]

Are you guys talking 2-wheel drive trucks or 4-wheel drive? My son has a 2 wheel F250 camper special and we built a 390 for it, with C6 and have the flo-tech (I think?) long tube headers. Sounds like the starter could be fun...  just looking at it from what I remember, seemed like it had all kinds of room under the hood, but maybe not underneath...

I am talking 2wd, my 74 F350 ramp truck had both Hedmans and FlowTechs, both fir well, and worked great.

[manofmerc]

I picked up a #9106 powermaster starter at summit .it took me a couple of attempts to get it clocked correctly .But when I did I had a ton of room! Bolted it in wired it up hit the switch and it sounded terrible .Like a chevy that wasnt shimmed right .Took it back for a refund . Put my old reman and it sounde normal all is good .I did a little grinding on my headers and the truck as well  Everything fit better .I didnt need a starter after all .I have an almost new pioneer flexplate it never made a noise with my old starter .I called powermaster they said take it back no reason for the noise .All is well it just didnt work out .Thanks everyone .Doug

[Dr Mabuse]

I have an FE in my 1979 F-150 4x4. Hedman headers - Ford starter.

If my starter died, I would replace it with the RobbMc I have had sitting on a shelf for 10+ years.

I would like to hear from anyone who thinks that a Powermaster is better than a RobbMc.

 https://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/fordat_starter.html

[manofmerc]

The reman starter I had on the truck worked fine it was just difficult to get to.When I did get the powermaster installed it sounded bad .I wasnt going to wear my flexplate out so off it came .After I did some trimming on my headers and the truck both starter and header fit much much better .My c-6 had a leak so it had to come out .Everything is better now no leaks ! Fellows check my classified ad .This 428 I have has a lot of potential .Happy New Year !Doug

[Rory428]

Although headers on these trucks does make it a bit of a pain to change the starter, at least be thankful you aren`t driving a Toyota Tundra PU with the 4.7 L V8. Those "clever" Japanese engineers, thought the ideal location was under the intake manifold, which would be the lifter valley on a pushrod engine. And for extra fun, the bolts for the starter don`t go in from the front, nope they go in from the rear, and are buried inside recesses holes in the block, so you can`t see or feel the bolts. Great fun trying to start the bolts, after removing the upper and lower intake manifold/plenum.

[BigBlueIron]

Go for the Powermaster 9506M. Original design was intent is for 427's with factory cast headers.

Just installed one in a 2wd 74 f100 w/c6 trans. It uses a heavy billet nose piece and is not adjustable, even though some literature says it is. I think this nose also allows for the overall length to be just a little shorter. It is also flipped over so the power wire comes in from the outside towards the frame instead of pointed at block. Also no risk of the adjustable nose coming loose. I plan on making it my go to for wherever a factory won't fit. The factory starter would clear in this application as you know but it sure didn't give much room between the header and power wire. But after test fitting both on the stand I decided to go with the 9605M simply because it looked easier to change if I had a problem.  I did not try to remove the starter with the header installed but there is certainly more room plus the starter is just easier to handle when your crammed in there. 

Really a nicely built unit and I plan to make it my go to first in event of a stock starter not fitting or if I need the extra cranking power.