You could test to see if you magnetic pickup is working. It might have a crack in it or it came lose and out of adjustment.
http://www.msdignition.com/page.aspx?id=3304

The mufflers are aero chambers. When I first drove this engine last year, I had my "air gap" manifold on then and I noticed that it seem to have a lot of pick up then. I was thinking that it was the 12 to one compression that really wakes up the engine.

I am running the water/methanol injection. In the video you can see a little green light just above the three gauges go on when the injection is running. I have it set to go on after 3000 rpm and when the vacuum hits 6" and progresses to 0". The plugs do run clean. I really do think it works well. Have not heard any pinging yet and it does not seem to hurt performance any.

Just a follow up on Jay's adaptor and the CHI intake. I installed both and they went on with no problems except it was 3/4" higher then my last setup which means it was 3/4" to high and was going to hit the hood. I decided to modify the air intake. The last setup I had on it was a K&N 1 1/4" drop base with a 3" air filter. I took the drop base and modified it so that it was a 2" drop base with a 3 1/2" air filter.

Here is the manifold installed.




Here is the modified drop base and filter.








Here is a video of one of my shake down cruises where I am first testing the higher rpm and trying to record the gauge readings. My shift light is going on at 6500 rpm. By the time my brain figures why there is a red light and that I have to shift gears, I think I am at about 6800.

http://vid704.photobucket.com/albums/ww45/mason427/487%20Mustang/Mustang%20test.mp4


Here is a still shot from the video. I believe I am in 3rd gear approaching 6000 rpm. The AFR looks to be between 12 and 13. The vacuum is zero and the fuel pressure is 6lbs.

I would like one.

That was funny!

My radiator is a Be Cool and the shroud is from Summit which fits nicely. The fans are also from Summit but if they fail I will replace them with Spal. It seemed to me that it ran cooler with the electric water pump when I was in traffic.

The blade I use to cut the manifold was 9" although I would have preferred 10". I will get back to you on the tooth count but it was on the course side. I did spend some time on it especially the porting. If deep down I ever had a desire to port manifolds for a living, it is gone now.

The TPI on the blade I used was 14. I would have preferred 12 because it cuts faster.

I ordered my adaptor with the intention of using a CHI 3V 225cc manifold. Jay and I worked it out so that he would set it up for me so I could do the porting. Jay started the porting by running the FE port 5/8" into the head side of the adaptor to get past the pushrod holes. He also ran some holes all the way through and cut an outline of the CHI ports on the manifold side. Here are some pictures on what I started with.







Here are pictures of how it ended up after the porting.









Everything seemed to line up nicely except for the number 1 and 8 port where the manifold runner turned in to quickly. So I elongated the outside of the port on the adaptor so that I could grind away the turn in on the manifold. This kept the outside radius of the runner a smooth curve into the adaptor.







Here are some pictures of the manifold before I started working on it.







Next I cut the bottom off.

 





This whole thing has to fit under my Shelby hood so one of the things I had to do was lower the height of the manifold 1". I did this by cutting off the top 1 1/4".





I then cut the machined surface off 3/8" thick and glued that to the top. Then blended it into the runners.





This is the finished product after painting it.







Here it is with the new timing cover. Now I need some warm weather.

Thanks for all the compliments. I am finally happy with the way looks. Now on to better brakes!