FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Non-FE Discussion Forum => Topic started by: Galaxie352 on July 19, 2018, 12:31:16 PM
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Hello everyone. My 55 Ford fairlane crown need a new wiring harness. The whole system need to be replaced. 6V - 12V conversion as well. So, what wiring systemes do you preffer ? Some company i have been looking at: EZ wiring, rebel wiring, American autowiring, painless ? Ore maybe do it wire by wire. It does not need to look stock, i just want something easy and something that work. Some ekstra circuit to wire music player etc inn the future would also be nice. :)
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I've used Painless, American Autowire, and EZ Wiring. Overall quality of the parts is identical for the most part. The manual that came with the EZ kit was vague on details. My biggest gripe was the lack of any markings for the fuse panel. This was a mini fuse version and there was NOTHING to tell you what fuse did what. Nothing on the holder, nothing in the book. Kinda strange they did not have a diagram explaining what circuit the fuse controlled? The American Autowire had large fold out colored diagrams. Painless and AW use a typical GM style fuse panel that is typically marked for each circuit.
Wire markings were similar, though with aging eyes you definitely need glasses or magnifying lens.
They've all gone in with minimal fuss and work fine. I typically add relay controls for the headlights to get the draw off the dash switches.
This was the EZ kit in a '41 Willys: (notice lots of tape and black marker, makes it easier to read and keep track)
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Looking good. This would be my first rewiring. I like the tought off a good wiring diagram. Have you ever ordered a custom fited harness to fit a spesific car ore where them all universal kit ?
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http://www.ronfrancis.com/
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They finally let you out? ^^^
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Robin, I’ve used both EZ and Painless. Have not used American Autowire. I learned on a Painless harness which is what I would suggest since this is your first. Larry (BattlestarGalactic) is right about the lack of detail in the EZ manual. But believe it or not that’s why I used EZ to wire my Mustang, because it’s pretty basic and you can pull the harness apart pretty easily and use it the way you want. For instance the fuel pump hot wire is usually bunched with the trunk run in most harnesses but I need it under the dash in my car. The EZ is loosely put together so that you can pull it apart with no problem. The only thing is you have to take your time and label the snot out of everything.
If you go with EZ (it’s cheaper), a technique I use is poop loads of zip ties. I make runs with them to keep things organized, then if a change is needed you just cut the ties and reorganize your runs. When you’re happy with everything I start at the back of the car installing connectors and work to the front.
Painless is pretty self explanatory.
Good luck, it’s kind of a zen thing.
Edit
Larry’s idea for getting magnifying specs is right on. I bought some fly tying fold down doohickeys.
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They finally let you out? ^^^
Sort of. I finished up a short jail gig for teaching the local junior high kids how to play the 20th century criminal version of mumbley peg instead of the 19th century schoolyard version, which I think is for pussies. A couple errant throws here and there; big deal. No pain, no gain. I'm sure nobody here wants to hear the story.
Anyway, now I await a trial for 14 counts of nefarious skulduggery. The Arizona Territory Tribunal pulled this bullshit blanket law out of the history books to charge me for deeds so devious and unique that there actually are no modern statutes that cover them. The prosecutor's opening statement was little more than loquacious chittering that I, representing myself as usual, will enjoy perforating to the extreme in open court. Look for the Facebook Live stream in the usual place.
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These all were universal kits.
The EZ kit had basically hand drawings showing the circuits. Not computer generated, just hand drawn lines. Not high buck at all. The others had computer generated pictures with color and stuff.
If you have any basic knowledge of wiring, they are all pretty simple to install. Just mount the fuse panel and then fish the wires towards where you want them. Once there, backtrack and start to tidy them up. Once they are all pulled tight and set, clip the ends and attach. Don't attach first, as you might have a big loop of wire that needs pulled up.
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Subscribing. The wiring on my 63 Merc is somewhat cobbled from previous owners over the years, plus my own mess. In 63 they didn't have a "fuse panel" per se, just a bunch of circuits/fuses embedded in the light and ignition switches, it's a mess trying to tap into any kind of circuit. The car is pretty simple other than having power windows which are just an add on of sorts in the factory harness.
I'd absolutely love to tear it all out and put a modern harness in the car with more circuits, and have nice fresh wiring. I also know that this will involve pulling interior and dash apart to some extent so likely a 4mo affair over a winter.
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I’ve used the American Autowire kit to re-wire my ‘63 Galaxie, and can recommend it. It is a very comprehensive kit, includes new light and ignition switches, all new bulb sockets and 2 modern fuse boxes. All wiring is clearly marked, the instructions easy to follow, and the kit allows for extra circuits such as electric radiator fans or speedo. The hardest part of installing it was to workout where to install the fuse boxes, but I got them tucked up in the LH corner of the firewall behind the instrument panel.
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I bought a Rebel universal kit to rewire my 1948 Lincoln Continental and dread rewiring the entire car. Instructions seem pretty comprehensive.
The "wad of wires" at the firewall was about 2" in diameter and was comprised of the original cloth covered wires, different colored wires connected together and wrapped in duct tape over electrical tape. I'm just going to leave only the dash wiring and redo every other wire. My issue will be getting the gauges working when dropping to a 6V system from new sending units on the 390. I may also install a gauge panel below the dash for peace of mind.
Richard
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Being born and raised in Fort Worth, I'd vote Painless LOL. Gotta encourage support for the old home town folks.
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So, i have looked over some off the wiring diagrams. Both EZ and rebel seems to be, a little vaugh om detail ( regardles off the diagram, i am shure the harness are made with good quality). The one that Kvik wire have looks pretty good. And after reading the Kvik instruction/diagram, i looked over on the wiring inn the shop manual and felt like i was on the right track. I just, so difficult to deside who to pick. Its a little more pricey than Rebel and EZ. :-\
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Richard, is this the wiring diagram that come with the kit you have:Untitled
PDFwww.mikestoys.co.uk › uploads › instruc...
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Battlestar: is that the wiring diagram that followed the EZ kit inn the background off the picture ? It looks more detailed that some off the diagrams i downloaded :o
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No, that was for the Vintage Air set up.
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Ron Francis
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Wow, that looks pretty Nice!!!
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Some years ago, I got stopped for 'no taillights' on my '63 Effie. When I went searching through the wiring, I found at least a dozen of the sort of 'taps' in which a plastic-covered gizmo is crushed onto a wire to make an off-shoot. The only fuses were a couple on the back-side of the headlight switch. The taillight problem was traced to a pinched wire bundle that was adjacent to the radiator and fed the headlights. (????)
I used am EZ kit (20 circuits?) for replacement of everything on the truck. The cardboard box behind the glove box door had seen much better days, so I used a pair of drawer slides to make a pull-out that held both the fuse block and the box for my Mallory ignition. And there was still room for a space to hold the papers, etc for the truck. The battery was located in the bed, just behind the cab, in its own box, and I pulled all the wires for the taillights and license light through a piece of flexible plastic tube for extra protection under the truck.
I could sit on the passenger seat and work on the pulled-out wiring array---simply leave enough slack in the wires adjacent to the fuse block. It surely beats laying upside down under the dash.
KS
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my back and neck would like that design .