FE Operating Parameters

[mlcraven]

This general topic has been previously extensively discussed in several other threads but, rather than come to erroneous conclusions based on other set-ups/experiences, I'm seeking feedback based on my specific application.

Vehicle: 1967 Cyclone

Engine: rebuilt 390 cid (+30, standard stroke) with reconditioned C7AEA heads (standard valve sizing, 3-angle valve seats, hardened exhaust seats, oil restrictors, POP end-stands), 10:1 compression, COMP XE 256 cam (212/219 intake/exhaust duration @ 50, 487/493 intake/exhaust lift), alum C6AZ-9424-H intake, 650 cfm vacuum sec Holley, 7-quart Milodon oil pan, WIX 51773 filter (the big one), Joe Gibb's 'Driven' HR-2 10W-30 oil, rebuilt OEM water pump, original clutch fan and radiator (flushed and pressure tested) w/ 185 degree thermostat (confirmed with the 'boil-in-a-pot-test'); Pertronix 'Igniter II' ignition with Autolite AP45 plugs gapped at .035, total ignition timing 36 degrees all in at 3500 rpm; FPA tri-Ys with 2.5-in H-pipe fitted full-length dual exhaust. 

Engine was broken in last year 'in the car' (20 mins at 3000 rpm no-load) and since then has had about 50 miles of driving on the backstreets of our neighborhood.  The only driven accessory is the alternator.

Drive Train: transmission: C6; rear end: 9-in Traction Lock 3:1 ratio; rear tires: 235/70-15

This morning I took the car out for its first highway run, from our residence to the Norfolk naval base and back on I-64/564.  Total distance is 20 miles driven at between a speedometer-indicated 55mph - 80mph (I haven't yet had a front end alignment done and at about 75mph it shows).  Including a stop in the mall parking lot at the turn-around point to do a chassis and underhood visual check, the trip duration was about 40 mins.  With the out-of-the box carb tune performance is crisp, acceleration is excellent, and it pulls strongly with a nice seat-of-the-pants feel.  (a performance tune on a local chassis dyno is planned later this fall).  Fuel in the 20 gal tank is a 50/50 mix of SUNOCO 100 octane and the local gas station 91 octane premium of undetermined pedigree. There was no pinging/rattling whatsoever. 

Here is what the instruments (both mechanical Auto Meters) indicate:

Water temp (outside temp 88 degrees F, sender located on top front of intake): 205 degrees at highway speed; when stopped at an intersection (in drive, brake on, 800 rpm idle) the temp slowly climbs over 3-4 mins to 220 and then stabiliizes

Oil pressure: on initial start 80 psi for approx 1 min then slowly drops to 30-35 psi at 800 rpm idle; at 55mph (2100 rpm) 45 psi, at 80 mph (3000 rpm) 60 psi.
 
My question: are these numbers typical for a package of the specifications indicated above (should I be happy with them)?

Thanks in advance

Michael

PS: I know, a stroker build was a no-brainer, but this was a 'built-to-budget' project meant as a reliable trouble-free weekend cruiser.  And I already have a street/strip tom-foolery car that my family refuse to ride in (and, therefore, it sits in a barn).

[cammerfe]

Looks to me like you're in good shape. I'd be happy with both temp and pressure.

KS

[ScotiaFE]

Sounds good to me.
The Cyclone is looking good!
I had the pleasure to meet Michael recently. He was in Dartmouth for a visit and came out to
the shed for a visit.
It's always great to have someone in the shed and listen to me ramble on. LOL
Take care.

[machoneman]

3X all is fine.

[Joe-JDC]

Personally, I like 38* total timing with iron heads, and with that high octane gasoline, you might run up to 40* total, with 12-14* initial for the 38*, 14-16* for the 40*.  It will probably run a little cooler with the timing 14* initial.  Check your timing with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged.  Different engines like different timing settings, so you may need to experiment with advancing it some to find where it runs best.  Joe-JDC.

[TimeWarpF100]

This general topic has been previously extensively discussed in several other threads but, rather than come to erroneous conclusions based on other set-ups/experiences, I'm seeking feedback based on my specific application.

Vehicle: 1967 Cyclone

Engine: rebuilt 390 cid (+30, standard stroke) with reconditioned C7AEA heads (standard valve sizing, 3-angle valve seats, hardened exhaust seats, oil restrictors, POP end-stands), 10:1 compression, COMP XE 256 cam (212/219 intake/exhaust duration @ 50, 487/493 intake/exhaust lift), alum C6AZ-9424-H intake, 650 cfm vacuum sec Holley, 7-quart Milodon oil pan, WIX 51773 filter (the big one), Joe Gibb's 'Driven' HR-2 10W-30 oil, rebuilt OEM water pump, original clutch fan and radiator (flushed and pressure tested) w/ 185 degree thermostat (confirmed with the 'boil-in-a-pot-test'); Pertronix 'Igniter II' ignition with Autolite AP45 plugs gapped at .035, total ignition timing 36 degrees all in at 3500 rpm; FPA tri-Ys with 2.5-in H-pipe fitted full-length dual exhaust. 

Engine was broken in last year 'in the car' (20 mins at 3000 rpm no-load) and since then has had about 50 miles of driving on the backstreets of our neighborhood.  The only driven accessory is the alternator.

Drive Train: transmission: C6; rear end: 9-in Traction Lock 3:1 ratio; rear tires: 235/70-15

This morning I took the car out for its first highway run, from our residence to the Norfolk naval base and back on I-64/564.  Total distance is 20 miles driven at between a speedometer-indicated 55mph - 80mph (I haven't yet had a front end alignment done and at about 75mph it shows).  Including a stop in the mall parking lot at the turn-around point to do a chassis and underhood visual check, the trip duration was about 40 mins.  With the out-of-the box carb tune performance is crisp, acceleration is excellent, and it pulls strongly with a nice seat-of-the-pants feel.  (a performance tune on a local chassis dyno is planned later this fall).  Fuel in the 20 gal tank is a 50/50 mix of SUNOCO 100 octane and the local gas station 91 octane premium of undetermined pedigree. There was no pinging/rattling whatsoever. 

Here is what the instruments (both mechanical Auto Meters) indicate:

Water temp (outside temp 88 degrees F, sender located on top front of intake): 205 degrees at highway speed; when stopped at an intersection (in drive, brake on, 800 rpm idle) the temp slowly climbs over 3-4 mins to 220 and then stabiliizes

Oil pressure: on initial start 80 psi for approx 1 min then slowly drops to 30-35 psi at 800 rpm idle; at 55mph (2100 rpm) 45 psi, at 80 mph (3000 rpm) 60 psi.
 
My question: are these numbers typical for a package of the specifications indicated above (should I be happy with them)?

Thanks in advance

Michael

PS: I know, a stroker build was a no-brainer, but this was a 'built-to-budget' project meant as a reliable trouble-free weekend cruiser.  And I already have a street/strip tom-foolery car that my family refuse to ride in (and, therefore, it sits in a barn).

Great looking car!

[mlcraven]

Thank-you everyone for the feedback (and compliments).

@ Joe-JDC: I'll play with initial timing as you've suggested.

Michael

[cjshaker]

I would even go a bit farther than Joe suggested and say that the 38* should be pushed up to all in by 3000. With that gas and compression the 40* should even be safe. The engine will like the added timing and curve (I'll bet it will be a noticeable improvement) and, like Joe said, probably run a bit cooler. Those high temps are a bit on the high side for me. Just doesn't leave much wiggle room, but if the engine is ok at that temp then not a problem I guess.

Other than that, sounds like a pretty awesome combination for a street car.

[mlcraven]

Had a friend over to the house this evening to assist (he was throttle man) and I played with the tune per recommendations above.

Initial is now at 16* and total at 40*.  Switched one of the advance springs for the next lighter spring and then checked the curve; it now looks like this:

Idle (800 rpm) - 16*/ 17.0 in vacuum
1000 rpm - 16*/ 18.0 in vacuum
1500 rpm - 24*/ 20.5 in vacuum
2000 rpm - 32*/ 21.5 in vacuum
2500 rpm - 36*/ 21.5 in vacuum
3000 rpm - 40 */21.5 in vacuum
3500 rpm - 40*/21.5 in vacuum

Re-connected the vacuum advance and took it for a test drive; the seat of the pants feel is the same to better than before, there's no audible pinging under acceleration or any load condition, water temp is down about 5 degrees F (to 195F), and acceleration from stopped or any speed is crisp and instantaneous. I'm sufficiently pleased that I'm going to forgo the expense of a chassis dyno tune (not cheap around here) and instead take the car to VMP or MIR for some quarter mile validation.

Again, thanks to everyone who provided earlier input.