Has anyone done it?

Basically just knocking down sharp corners in the combustion chamber to make sure they don't build too much heat and creat a pre ignition scourge right?

Is there anyone what's really good at it that would know their way around an fe head specifically a robert pond head?

I almost ran a dry sump setup on my turbo subaru... but then i thought... why would i spend that much money protecting an engine that's only worth 3/4k anyway ?

Now that i'm building a nasty FE on a block that's worth more than the whole subaru engine i'm thinking maybe it's time to consider it?

The truth is this car is going to be somewhere between a Sunday driver and a weekend warrior.
Off the top of my head i'd say that  it will probably see between 2000 and 5000 miles a year and a bunch of those will be 1/4 or an 1/8th at a time. I will trailer the car to the track so if it breaks i have a ride home but i'll probably drive it a couple hundred miles some times to a car show or something. Is going dry sump still beneficial or is the risk of throwing the belt greater than the gain of not worrying about the sump going dry under acceleration. 

Also as i keep hinting i'd like to turbo the motor at some point in this case should i scavenge straight from the turbos or still drain them back to the pan and let the pump scavenge from there ?

Should i feed turbos straight off the pump or off the filter line?  (granted this is just research for a year or two down the road)

Big heavy valves big 2.25/1.73 solid roller cam .674" what springs to use?

If I went to lighter valves would bee hive springs work or do I still need almost  300lb seat pressure springs with dampers etc?

Whats the best tie in point?  Should i put a T on top of the oil filter adapter for the gauge and to bleed off some oil for the turbos i plan on running?

Who has a good range of oil pumps for me to pick from to make sure i don't starve the engine trying to feed the turbos?

Thank you.

Bill (foo1)

What head gasket should i use and what boost pressure should i consider 0 ringing the engine?

Right now she's sitting @ 9.7/1 CR with a .030 head gasket on it and a relatively large cam (especially for 9.7/1 cr) (262 intake and exhaust @.050) She's a 500 CID pond side oiler.  With Crower crank and rods both designed for way more power than i'd ever turn it to.  Should i drop her compression down further with a bigger head gasket?  I know if i go too far with HG i'll start running into quench issues.

.050 = 9.17/1
.080 =8.73/1
.100=8.5/1
.120= 8.22/1


The plan is two gt4202 turbos (because no matter what the boost pressure, turbine pressure on the 1.15 a/r turbine should stay roughly equal through out the 6 psi- 25psi band i would consider running them at.

"setting it on kill" would be @ 25 psi and would be on race gas or e-85

to be honest i'll probably never see 25 psi even with the forged-completely machined finish rods and crank so if is should stop at 18 or  20 that's fine too.

Long story short... i know turbos and EFI.... i don't know FE engines very well.  My background is in subarus and mod motors and neither would i consider 25 psi to be o-ring worthy but they also have much larger heads with pent roof designs less likely to have hot spots... 

Any intel would be nice.

Thank you,
-bill