Work with percentages to determine the amount of change needed to correct the speedometer. Bring GPS to verify actual road speed. Go 50 mph on the GPS. what does your speedo read?  If the speed reads 45 then you are 10% off, if it reads 42, then you are 16% off too slow. Lets say your speedo reads 42 at 50 for a 16% error. Remove the speedo driven gear from the trans. Let's say you have a 18 tooth driven gear and the example requires speeding up the speedo. You would multiply 18 x .84 to find 15.12, round down to 15 driven gear teeth and that is as close as you can get to accurate.
 Or, if your road speed is 50 and the speedo reads 58 which is 8mph too fast would also be a 16% error. Again, if your speedo driven gear is 18 teeth, then multiply 18 x 1.16 to find 20.88. Round up to 21. If a 21 is available it would be the closest to correct.
   If the 21 is not available, then you will need to change the output shaft to the next lower tooth count. As a guess, a 7 tooth drive would probably be the right range for available gears and if your tire is tall enough, you might get away with an 8 tooth drive output shaft.
    I've seen up to a 23 tooth gear, but the teeth are so thin, they have a shorter life.

I used the Powermaster Powermax 9106 on a 445FE. About every 5th time I crank the gear doesn't fully engage and it grinds. It's kinda embarrassing in a recently finished car with shiny new paint. I have another of the same starter in a 483FE, it never grinds.

I use Speedy Sleeves all the time to repair seal grooved surfaces.   Make it easy for the parts person and tell them you need a National 99187.

   I found a chart of Speedy-Sleeve (aka Ready-Sleeve) from .472" up to 8" with the part numbers. I printed it and hung it on my wall at the shop. Luckily, to find the correct part number right now, i have a crank spacer sitting on the bench to measure and determine which sleeve we need.

   In one of my videos I show using a Speedy-Sleeve. At 26:39 in video #6:
       https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ZcyyjKO9qI&t=1s


   Or you can watch the whole play list:
 https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLmd7EZ1chb35RrQhM_lD38cY39Nu3QaNZ

here are a few pics.    I had been saying for a few years "no more cars". For some reason I buckled on this one. Drove 8 hours to go get it. Should have told the guy no thanks, when I was there. I loaded it. Got stopped by DOT in Baltimore--wasn't too bad. Kicking myself with buyer's remorse. Stopped at a friend's in NJ, and of course he says "you said you were through buying cars..."  Well, here we are. I was mad at myself for buying it, especially since I already have a 64 Montclair Marauder that has been sitting for a few years. But, every time I look at this Monterey Marauder, I think wow, I love these cars. So, I am less mad now.

Hi,
   I recently picked up a 1964 Monterey Marauder 2 door. I'm looking for a steering wheel and door panels.....probably other odds and ends as well..

   

   Hi,
     Anyone using the Edelbrock Pro-Flo for the FE?    It comes on a Victor style intake. I prefer this EFI configuration over the Sniper, FItech or MSD Atomic drop on EFI.   Currently I am using the MSD Atomic EFI, while it works pretty good most of the time the one thing I don't like is the injectors are above the throttle plate. At idle while looking down the throttle body there is a nice mist coming out of the boosters then the mist lands on the closed throttle blades forms into droplets and gets sucked into the  plenum. This seems to be making a dirty idle. A carb has a cleaner idle than this style EFI. FAST EFI appears to have their injectors below the throttle plate which should have a cleaner idle than the other 3.
    While I might go back to a carb, the Pro-Flow is somewhat intriguing. Especially if my wife is driving the car. EFI requiring less driver input makes it a little easier on her.

    Thoughts? Experiences?-----------thanks.

Quote from: My427stang on July 19, 2023, 06:31:17 AM

...
Mark, the 351 is a little different when it is missing it's disk or proper thermostat. .

...

The 351C needs that disc to make coolant leave the block.  Without the disc, coolant just runs in a loop inside the block.

  Hi Gerry,
      Yes, same concern with the FE of the hot coolant looping in the block through the heater hose and bypass and continuing the get hotter. Probably not as much volume as a 351c, but similar in concept.  It did make a 10+ degree difference on the highway to close off the heater hose.

     So far, it is sounding like the radiator is just not efficient enough to dissipate the heat from the engine.
   I still wonder if long tube headers would reduce the temp because they have less mass than the cast 427 headers. 

Try running a 195F thermostat and see if that changes things.  For whatever reason, your "recored with a new "high efficiency" core" is not transferring heat out of the engine very efficiently.  If you're talking copper core and they put in a tight fin count/4 core then you've been - IMHO - had....

   The guy retired and closed shop a few months after I got the radiator. He had a good reputation, but who knows? I might try an aluminum radiator. Might as well put a 195 thermostat because it is in the 190's more often than at 180.