Not saying that your engine can’t take it but highway cruising I like to be at 2800 rpm 3000 max. Driving at 3600 for 30 plus minutes is screaming to me. Maybe I’m being to cautious when I’m on the parkway. A drive like that could really get those ztemps up.

I agree Stangman it 100% is not good I would call it thrashing not to the extreme but I am sure it was harder then all the rips to 6500 combined Just like you said 2800 3000 is good. But it was interesting to see how everything responded when abused and I don't have any plans to repeat it. Over all I think it did pretty well oil got up in temp but it was stable.

I got in contact with the morel dealer here in Australia today so I will find out soon what it is worth and how long to rebuild a set of lifters.

I always run a 160 degree thermostat and try to keep the engine temps at 170-180 or less.  I think if I wanted the engine to go 100K miles I might be inclined to run a higher temperature, but in the vehicles I have the engines will never be driven that many miles, so that kind of longevity is not a concern.  I like the fact that at the lower temps I am far away from any potential overheating issue, and of course the engine will make more power at lower temperatures, so that is a plus.

I found the numbers

The valve locks and retainer actually did their job quite well.

Quote from: cleandan on May 08, 2024, 09:46:34 AM

200*F for oil, or water, temps is just fine...no worries.
220*F for oil, or water temps is just fine....but getting up there.
Many choose temps in the 160-180 range and that is not ideal for many reasons...too cool.
But even 235*F is okay for one of these engines.

Not to hijack the thread, but I have read many conflicting opinions on the 160-180 topic.  Lots of people say this is too cool, many others say it's fine and that they've never had an engine wear out prematurely for running temp in that range.  My engine was running in the 210-215 range with a 180 stat in the first 100 miles (90-100f southern summer days), but I altered the grill for better airflow and now it sits happy in 178-182.  When I was in the 215 range, it dieseled badly on shutdown. 

Just curious what your thoughts are on the 160-180 being too cool.

I run a 160 thermostat and I set my fan to come on and off at around 170 for my set up that seems to work the best normal running temp is 180 no matter the weather for me if my car goes much over 200 even under the hottest days 35C to 40deg C then I know there is a problem with fans or water pump belt and It only gets to 200 on highway drives and I think that is because of my fan shroud set up is restricting airflow at speed but is amazing in traffic just goes up to 180 fans kick on and pull it back down to 165 170 and turn off or it will just hold it at 180 on a hot day.
I really need to try a no shroud set up I bet that would fix highway heat but it will make it worse in traffic.

As for Run On mine did that when it was fresh and tight too I though it was too much timing but it was not and went away as it loosened up. I broke my engine in driving up a mountain.

I think people confuse 160 thermostat with that is where my temp will run but that is not the case all it will do is allow the water to flow @160 your fans and rad still need to be able to control the heat. If your cooling set up can maintain 160deg f that is a super cooling set up. It is hot here all year round I would be lucky to see a few weeks a year of sub 10deg C mornings and average of 20deg c days other 49 weeks of the year is 30deg c to 40deg c day or night .

If I was in a cooler climate I would run a 180 thermostat. I think running at 200 210 is fine too but you have very little margin for error if anything happens you will be pushing water out before you can find a good place to park and let it cool down. Just got to find what works for your car and climate.

So I put one of those B&M deep pans on, about the only one that would clear the cross member. Fits good and well made. It came with a filter extension which uses some weird filter held on with machine screws. I don't like the looks of it flow wise. The feed hole is about 5/8" with goes to a 1/2" tube. Looks like it could be a restriction to me. Trans seems to shift fine and maybe i'm imagining things but seems like i can hear a slight squeal when really getting on it, like starving the pump.


Just wondering if anyone has any horror stories with these aftermarket filter setups or if i'm being paranoid. Next time that pans off tho I will replace with a 4x4 filter and custom stand pipe..