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Topics - Pontiac787

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FE Technical Forum / Planning out a new exhaust system
« on: June 15, 2018, 12:54:56 PM »
Hi all,

I’m starting to plan out a new exhaust system for my 1967 Mustang and I wanted to get some feedback.  The engine is a fairly stock 427.  The car is a driver/cruiser.  The current system is a straight shot of 2.5” pipe from the headers to 16” turbo mufflers then a 2.25” stock
Below is my current plan and rational.
tailpipe with twin tip resonators.  There is no crossover pipe. 

2.5” mandrel bent pipe – should provide sufficient flow while providing more room for the install
H pipe – From what I’ve read, an H pipe will produce better torque for a street/cruising application opposed to an X pipe.
Dynomax Super Turbo with a 16”or 20” case (17629, 17749) – provides good flow without being annoyingly loud

I like the twin tip look so I may add 2.5” flowmaster tips https://www.flowmastermufflers.com/accessories-and-tips/15307-exhaust-tip-300-in-dual-angle-cut-polished-ss-fits-250-in-tubing-clamp-on/  or 2.5” Jones resonator tips.  https://www.jegs.com/i/Jones-Exhaust/523/JDR212/10002/-1  Jones is the only brand I could find with a 2.5” inlet. 

Originally, I was planning on going with the Magnaflow 15816 Kit https://www.magnaflow.com/products?partNumber=15816 with an X pipe .  I really like the stainless but from what I have been reading this setup will provide good peak power but it kicks in later in the RPM band so might not be as much fun for cruising.  I was also concerned that the Magnaflow Street Series mufflers would be too loud for my taste. 

I have no firsthand experience with any of these products so any insight would be appreciated.  Also, does anyone know if someone sells an application specific stainless exhaust kit minus the mufflers?

2
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Grommet help
« on: June 09, 2018, 04:36:58 PM »
I’m looking for a grommet with a 1” OD and 3/4” ID to fit a K&N breather in some old Edelbrock cast aluminum valve covers. The port in the valve covers are 1” across by about 3/8” deep. Neither Edelbrock or K&N could offer any suggestions. I got one from Scott Drake for a ‘67 Mustang with the correct OD/ID but the gap is not wide enough. I trimmed the bottom lip off to fit but the center gap section is rounded so it’s not an ideal fit.  Anyone know of a compatible grommet?

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Non-FE Discussion Forum / Trimming Brace in Fiberglass Hood
« on: June 07, 2018, 02:21:28 PM »
Hey guys,

I have a fiberglass hood on my Mustang that has a functional 1966 style hood scoop. I need to cut a half-moon shape out of an under-hood brace to make room for a taller air cleaner filter. Once the brace is notched the air cleaner will be able to sit up inside the hood scoop.

The cut will only be about 7” across and 3” wide. It will go about ½ way into the support. I don’t think it will undermine the integrity of the hood at all but if it does the support will be easy to brace. This is thin finished fiberglass. I’m cutting from the bottom up.

Any suggestions on what I should use to cut it?  I was thinking about trying a close quarters hacksaw or maybe a die grinder with a diamond blade

4
FE Technical Forum / Increasing the Air Flow to My Engine
« on: June 06, 2018, 04:05:20 PM »
I’m trying to increase the air available to the engine in my '67 Mustang.  It’s a 427 with 3 Holley 2 barrel carburetors and a max RPM of around 6,000.  By my calculation I need about 100 sq. in. of filter surface area.

I am currently running a K&N E-1960 1 ¾” filter which, again by my calculation, provides about 50 sq. in. of surface area.  Unfortunately, I don’t have room for the K&N E-1963 3” filter because, height wise, the front of my air cleaner lid is very close to a hood support.  The car has a fiberglass hood with a functional 1966 style hood scoop.  I can see three options for increasing the air flow. 

1)   I bought an air cleaner lid from Cobranda with plans of modifying it with two K&N 66-0901 9" filter lids, one over each outboard carb. https://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=66-0901&pkid=5531932&rw=1

2)   Purchase this set of O’Brien Trucker 2 ½” Air Cleaners.  The front one should clear the brace and sit up into the hood scoop.  https://www.obrientruckers.com/ecom/product/239/2671/

3)   Notch the fiberglass brace on the underside of the hood so that I can fit the original air cleaner with the 3” K&N filter  https://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=E-1963

All of these options will theoretically get me to the 100 cu. in. of surface area.  I’m interested to hear your thoughts on which may be the better option.

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FE Technical Forum / PCV Question
« on: May 29, 2018, 10:31:24 AM »
Hi All,

I'm thinking of adding a PCV to a '63 427 with a 6V intake.  I did some searching around and found good info but none of the photos in the posts were working.  My current set up is one breather on the driver side valve cover and the vent on the rear of the intake that I assume the road tube would have attached to.

My questions are:

1) Should I install the PCV at the valve cover or the vent that stands up from the rear of the intake?

2) If I do vent from the valve cover do should I plug the vent on the rear of the intake?

3) I only have one vacuum port on the intake (at the rear).  It is currently connected to the power brake booster.  Can I tee this port and run both the PCV and brake booster from it?

Thank you!

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FE Technical Forum / Starter Fix for the 153 tooth flywheel blues
« on: May 29, 2018, 10:11:00 AM »
I have a 1963 427 in Mustang that has been having "starter" issues over the last few years.  I would replace the starter only to have it start the car about 20 times before it would start free spinning.  The starter wouldn't engage with the flywheel.  After counting the teeth on the flywheel I found I had the 153 tooth version, not the more common post '64 184 tooth version.  After a few web searches I came across this article about John Vermeersch from Michigan who sells a Bendix gear for the 153 tooth flywheel that replaces the drive gear in the readily available 184 tooth starter.  This thing saved me a lot of grief and cost a whooping $35 shipped. 

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/easy-fix-avoid-1958-1964-big-block-ford-starter-failure/

You guys may be aware of this but I wanted to put it out there since it really saved the day for me.   


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