Looking For Opinions - Engine Bay Aesthetics

[CV355]

I'm going to bite the bullet and drop a new engine in my Q-code '69 Mach 1.  We're pulling the existing motor, re-assembling and preserving it so it's a problem for future me.  Looking forward to getting a new engine from Brent, in the process of pulling funds together at the moment.

So, it looks like I'll have some time to pretty up the engine bay.  I've always been a fan of "smooth engine bays," but I'm hesitant to do anything too drastic and kill the "period correct" look of the car.  If I were to plug all of the holes and repaint the engine bay, would it make purists too angry?  It's flat black right now, but I'm dying to make it gloss black like the rest of the car and the underside of the hood.

Also, while I love the look of Ford Corporate Blue on an FE, I'm somewhat partial to the "fully polished" look, or at least satin silver.  I've been looking into Cerakote Glacier, which polishes up to a shine, but not too bright like chrome.  Chrome powdercoat seems like a gamble, and true chrome is a fortune and not my preference.  It's not a concourse build anymore, so the "seal is broken" so to speak.  Any opinions here?  My last high-hp build (granted not in a classic Mustang) was all polished and ceramic silver, and it was a beauty.  Trying to walk a thin line between respecting period-correct and light/tasteful resto-mod.

Any other ideas on what I should do to the engine bay while the engine is out to pretty it up without making it gaudy?  We're planning on redoing all of the wiring at the end, so that'll be tidied up last.

I know this is foremost a performance/technical forum, but I know some of you guys have some eye-candy engine bays...  Lets hear some ideas!

[Drew Pojedinec]

You are talking about paint mostly. You aren’t permanently altering the vehicle.
I say you live once, do what makes you happy and don’t worry about other people.

Of course this is why I bought a 289 Galaxie and not an r-code. I want to do what I want to do.

[CV355]

You are talking about paint mostly. You aren’t permanently altering the vehicle.
I say you live once, do what makes you happy and don’t worry about other people.

Of course this is why I bought a 289 Galaxie and not an r-code. I want to do what I want to do.

Good point- nothing that I plan on doing would prevent a full concourse resto in the future.  I guess I'm trying to gauge ideas so I get a feel for where to draw the line. 

[67428GT500]

The engine compartment was never flat black from the factory. They are 70% gloss.  I bought a new clip kit, new under hood and gauge feed harnesses and chromed factory parts. Chrome can be removed and it painted in factory finishes.

[GerryP]

You're concerned about what others may think if you do something that displeases them?  It's not a moral issue.  Do what you think will bring to car to where you want it to be.

[CV355]

The engine compartment was never flat black from the factory. They are 70% gloss.  I bought a new clip kit, new under hood and gauge feed harnesses and chromed factory parts. Chrome can be removed and it painted in factory finishes.

That engine bay is gorgeous.  Thanks for the tip on the engine bay paint!

You're concerned about what others may think if you do something that displeases them?  It's not a moral issue.  Do what you think will bring to car to where you want it to be.

Ehh, in a way I suppose.  Q-codes are relatively rare, like R-codes, and I don't want to go off the deep end and make some gaudy abomination that makes true fans cringe.  That's really all I'm safeguarding from.  No matter what, someone will dislike the fact it isn't 100% concourse, that's life. 

I'm sure we've all seen an article on an over-the-top restomod, loved the idea of it at first, but then thought "hmm, that used to be a classic..." Somewhat mutually exclusive ideas.

[338Raptor]

Just keep it clean and tidy and everyone will like it and it won’t kill resale so long as you keep all the original parts. 
Do what you want and enjoy it.

[Drew Pojedinec]

Mild modifications make it your own.
Major alterations often make it an abomination. But if that person is happy? Whatever.

I have some customers that refuse to drive their car further than the trailer. The car is too perfect and original to risk putting more than the original 12,000 miles on it. Personally I’m more annoyed by that, but again if it is your car and you derive some enjoyment from a car that you dust every week, great, cool.

[Thumperbird]

Do what looks good to you and makes you happy, a true fan that cringes is a closed minded prick, it's just a car after all.
Why we worry more about our cars than our beer bellies I'll never know.

[cammerfe]

I have never had a performance car that was left alone any longer than the time it took to drive it home the first time. Make yourself happy. You can't please everybody all the time. Why try??

KS

[Joe-JDC]

There is a lot to be said for a period correct CJ engine in a Q or R code mustang.  They were actually very good looking engines straight from Ford or Shelby.  Dressing up a CJ is easy and it will look every bit the top of the line Mustang that they were for the time.  A CJ would out run a Boss 302 or 429 off the showroom floor, and a real one is something to be proud of.  Don't turn it into a sissy with paint.  Joe-JDC

[67428GT500]

There is a lot to be said for a period correct CJ engine in a Q or R code mustang.  They were actually very good looking engines straight from Ford or Shelby.  Dressing up a CJ is easy and it will look every bit the top of the line Mustang that they were for the time.  A CJ would out run a Boss 302 or 429 off the showroom floor, and a real one is something to be proud of.  Don't turn it into a sissy with paint.  Joe-JDC

So what is a "Sissy with paint" Joe?

[CV355]

There is a lot to be said for a period correct CJ engine in a Q or R code mustang.  They were actually very good looking engines straight from Ford or Shelby.  Dressing up a CJ is easy and it will look every bit the top of the line Mustang that they were for the time.  A CJ would out run a Boss 302 or 429 off the showroom floor, and a real one is something to be proud of.  Don't turn it into a sissy with paint.  Joe-JDC

So what is a "Sissy with paint" Joe?

I'm guessing "sissy with paint" would be going with wild Autozone rattle can colors and hydrodipping camouflage skulls on the intake, haha... which is something I do not plan on doing.  But he brings up a good point- it can be done, and I'm trying to gauge where the line is.

Maybe if I list out my plans, someone could point out anything that might be gaudy or over the line

Main theme: Polished/silver/black look
Headers JetHot, polished
Intake is an Edelbrock Performer RPM w/ Endurashine
Valve Covers would be chrome-like (PVD, or cerakote glacier)
Block, Heads...  still torn between the Ford Corporate Blue or the Cerakote Glacier
Pulleys and WP are polished aluminum
Alternator is chrome
Black braided lines / AN fitting
Nylon braid wire covering
Brake booster/MC is Wildwood, highly polished with black anodized cover
Export braces had poor-quality chrome, looking at recoating with cerakote glacier and then polishing
I machine-polished the radiator, might still coat since it is soft and scratches up easily

No wild colors, just trying to keep things consistent

[Falcon67]

My go-to semi gloss has been Krylon 1613 semi-flat. 



And I agree with the others - do what looks good to you.  If you like it, you'll just enjoy the car more. 

>I have never had a performance car that was left alone any longer than the time it took to drive it home the first time. Make yourself happy. You can't please everybody all the
>time. Why try??

100% 

[Thumperbird]

You'll never regret a basecoat/clearcoat on the bay, lot's of off gloss options out there and no cloudy rattle can look.

[Joe-JDC]

Well, a "sissy" is many things, but anything that neuters a CJ in looks or power production is just plain wrong.  No pink wire looms, or glowing lights under the oil pan or frame for a couple.  Around here, there is another term or two, but "sissy" will have to suffice.  Joe-JDC

[67428GT500]

I was in a conundrum of sorts as well.  When I started my build I learned in the concourse restoration direction.  I used factory iron heads and about the only major deviation was headers. I grew tired of every Shelby I saw with matte black everything.  I also wasn't overly enthralled with the lack-luster 355 HP 428.  I wound up going with a mix. While maintaining factory components I went with a lot of plating, got away from the iron heads and went aluminum. I restored things like the C7ZX intake and many of the original parts.  What got the shine was the engine itself. The wiring is all exact reproductions with all the OE part number tags. The interior and the trunk were done as well. I didn't like "dynamite sticks" I hated the way the brake lights sequenced when you stepped on the brakes.
I wound up wiring factory sequentials in. I like tasteful and shine.  The old adage: If it don't go, chrome it doesn't fit the car.  I showed the vehicle at two car shows on the same day week before last. I took a best of the show at one and my class at one and best of class in the second.  This is the first time I have ever taken the vehicle to a show. I have no intention of drag racing the car. However, I do like to run it a bit on occasion. I am still going easy on it being it has only a few hundred miles on it.
Because I actually drive my vehicle there were a few safety considerations made. Upgraded pads, shocks, sway bars and lowered control arms, total control springs  and larger rims so I could utilize modern tires. The original 15 X 7 ten spokes leave a lot to be desired in tire choices. I went with the 10 spoke 17 X 7 and 17 X 8 and they are tucked even with the 245  45 17 and 265 45 17 rears.
Even the period correct Traction masters are plated.
All can be changed back and there is no damage done to the vehicle to that would make the return to original too difficult.

[67428GT500]

I agree. Shot basecoat with Vintage clear and adjusted the hardner to control the gloss. It's very durable. Spray can paint doesn't cut it and doesn't clean up well.

[Drew Pojedinec]

Good looking car there capt.  Don’t think I’ve seen it before.

[67428GT500]

Capt Drew.
Thanks to the direction and assistance from many I was able to complete the vehicle to the standards you see. Despite still dealing with a few bugs it's complete and runs pretty damn healthy.
Thank you! I appreciate your time and contributions as well, Drew.
                                                                                                         -Keith

[CV355]

Wow, I appreciate the opinions in here!  Good stuff.  Sounds like I'm not going in a bad direction.

I was in a conundrum of sorts as well.  When I started my build I learned in the concourse restoration direction.  I used factory iron heads and about the only major deviation was headers. I grew tired of every Shelby I saw with matte black everything.  I also wasn't overly enthralled with the lack-luster 355 HP 428.  I wound up going with a mix. While maintaining factory components I went with a lot of plating, got away from the iron heads and went aluminum. I restored things like the C7ZX intake and many of the original parts.  What got the shine was the engine itself. The wiring is all exact reproductions with all the OE part number tags. The interior and the trunk were done as well. I didn't like "dynamite sticks" I hated the way the brake lights sequenced when you stepped on the brakes.
I wound up wiring factory sequentials in. I like tasteful and shine.  The old adage: If it don't go, chrome it doesn't fit the car.  I showed the vehicle at two car shows on the same day week before last. I took a best of the show at one and my class at one and best of class in the second.  This is the first time I have ever taken the vehicle to a show. I have no intention of drag racing the car. However, I do like to run it a bit on occasion. I am still going easy on it being it has only a few hundred miles on it.
Because I actually drive my vehicle there were a few safety considerations made. Upgraded pads, shocks, sway bars and lowered control arms, total control springs  and larger rims so I could utilize modern tires. The original 15 X 7 ten spokes leave a lot to be desired in tire choices. I went with the 10 spoke 17 X 7 and 17 X 8 and they are tucked even with the 245  45 17 and 265 45 17 rears.
Even the period correct Traction masters are plated.
All can be changed back and there is no damage done to the vehicle to that would make the return to original too difficult.

Sounds very similar...  I like chrome as a "tasteful" accent/detail.  I prefer polished to chrome, but as I'm finding with aluminum parts, it's too hard to keep them polished to a mirror without having some coating on top.  Anodizing cuts the shine, ceramic seems to work, but at that point why not just coat.   

Well, a "sissy" is many things, but anything that neuters a CJ in looks or power production is just plain wrong.  No pink wire looms, or glowing lights under the oil pan or frame for a couple.  Around here, there is another term or two, but "sissy" will have to suffice.  Joe-JDC

Agreed! 

[67428GT500]

Come on now! You know you want LED lights under the car, candy lime green with big metal flake and a huge wing on the back with rubber band tires. LOL  I think we could even dig up and old JC Whitney catalog and find you some dingle balls and long shag for the dash! ...  Okay, bad mental image.  The only polished aluminum I have is the Edelbrock water pump. Chrome is so much easier as far as upkeep.

                                                                                                     -Keith

[Drew Pojedinec]

Lol, don’t call me Capt.... I’m the chief, I work for a living

[67428GT500]

Lol, don’t call me Capt.... I’m the chief, I work for a living

Chief... Fair enough. I do most of the work too. I'm not turning the controls over to a low time first officer! lol

                                                                                              -Keith

[wayne]

Make it the way you want it i am doing a 69 r code power steering is gone has been a long time to make room for the big hooker headers.It was a auto now a 4 speed lime green color changed to black.Engine is done with edelbrock heads water pump and a holley intake carb will a be 3310 holley I have the stock stuff but thats not how i want it can all be put back stock some day if some one wants to.

[FERoadster]

I've read all of the posts to this question and see that He's not making  the engine compartment truly original.
My question:  for a  Q code 69 Mustang what valve covers would there have been?
Richard

[Joe-JDC]

Depending on build date, chrome powered by Ford, or the finned cast aluminum.   Joe-JDC

[CV355]

I've read all of the posts to this question and see that He's not making  the engine compartment truly original.
My question:  for a  Q code 69 Mustang what valve covers would there have been?
Richard

I still have the original Power By Ford valve covers...

The covers I plan on using on the new build will be polished or chromed "428 Snake" finned cast covers.