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Messages - blykins

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1
Yep, guy put it in a ‘64 Galaxie.

2
FE Technical Forum / Re: 1970 f250 390 build
« on: May 11, 2024, 05:19:09 PM »
Question about purchasing complete internally balanced rotating assemblies.  Are the matching components stamped or otherwise marked?  Do the wrist pin/rod/pistons come assembled?  Wondering how the end user knows which components go where. 

When it comes to machine the block are the following what you'd ask the machine shop to perform:

Clean block
sonic check/magnaflux
Bore/hone cylinders (with torque plate?)
Square deck block
align hone main bearing caps
Cam bearing install

I have two candidate blocks, one is 4.050" bore the other is 4.080".  Is there a reason to use the 4.080" block?  Is it better to perform oiling system modifications prior to the machine shop work?

The end user will know one way or the other.  When you buy an internally balanced assembly, the seller will advise on what to do.  Some guys will grind material off to weight balance everything.  Some guys will mix and match parts/weights in order to keep from having to grind.  Pistons are not hung on the rods. 

You can use the 4.080" block if it is in good shape.  A good shop will sonic it before they do any work. 

For stuff to do, I'd say:

*Bake/tumble
*Pressure test/magnaflux
*Bore & hone with torque plates
*Square decks
*Align hone with fasteners you're going to use
*Install cam bearings


3
Did this one a few years ago, but it's a good indicator of what the "street" Clevors can accomplish.


Performance Summary:
      Cubic Inches:    461           Dyno brand:  Stuska
      Power Adder:   Doesn't need one      Where dynoed:  Dale Meers Racing Engines
      Peak Horsepower:  720 @ 6700
      Peak Torque:  630 lb-ft

Engine Specifications:
   Block brand, material, finished bore size, other notes:  Dart aluminum, 4.155" bore size, 9.500" deck
     
   Crankshaft brand, cast or forged, stroke, journal size: Scat Superlight 4.250"
     
   Connecting Rods brand, material, center to center distance, end sizes, bolts:  Callies Compstar 6.250"

   Piston brand, material (caster, hypereutectic or forged), dish/dome volume, static CR:  Diamond custom, 22.5cc dish, 11.25:1

   Main Bearings, Rod Bearings, Cam Bearings brand and size:  Clevite coated main/rod, Dart coated cam

   Piston rings brand, size, other notes:  Total Seal .043/.043/3mm, light tension

   Oil Pump, pickup, and drive:  Melling, ARP, Moroso

   Oil pan, windage tray, oil filter adapter:  Moroso front sump, no  tray

   Camshaft brand, type (hyd/solid, flat tappet or roller), lift and duration (adv and @.050"):  Custom Lykins Motorsports solid roller, 266/275 @ .050"

   Lifters brand, type:  Crower oiling

   Timing chain and timing cover:  New replacement Ford timing cover, Cloyes billet timing set

   Cylinder heads brand, material, port and chamber information:  Ported CHI 3V, 225cc (before porting)

   
   Intake valve brand, head size, stem size:  Ferrea titanium 2.190"

   Exhaust valve brand, head size, stem size:  Ferrea titanium 1.65"
   
   Valve springs brand, part number, specs:  Manley 270/700

   Retainers and locks brand, part number, specs:  Manley titanium

   Rocker arm brand, type (adjustable or non-adj), material, ratio:  Comp Cams Ultra XD, 1.73

   Rocker shafts and stands, brand, material:

   Pushrods brand, type, length:  Trend

   Valve covers, brand, type:  Blue Thunder

   Distributor brand, advance curve information:  MSD

   Harmonic balancer brand: ATI

   Water pump brand, type (mechanical or electric):  Moroso electric

   Intake manifold brand, material, porting information:  CHI 3V

   Carburetor(s) brand, type:  Quick Fuel BDQ-1050

   Exhaust manifolds or headers brand, type:  Dyno headers

4
FE Technical Forum / Re: 1970 f250 390 build
« on: May 11, 2024, 06:13:18 AM »
That's really interesting.  I guess the overly simplified analogy would essentially be that as airflow improves, the less duration is needed to make power.  Thanks, for taking the time to explain that Brent.       

Yeah, that's a better explanation than my rambling. 

On some of my 347-363 SBF stuff with AFR heads, they will peak at 6200 with just a 219° @ .050" cam.  The heads make all the difference.

5
FE Technical Forum / Re: 1970 f250 390 build
« on: May 10, 2024, 06:00:01 PM »
Did you mean cam on the big side for the factory headed engine?

If you were never gonna switch heads, then yes, you'd need a little larger cam than usual to feed the larger displacement with factory head flow. 

However, if you're planning on upgrading the heads, the "good" heads will need a lot less duration to get to the same point.  So, you'd need a smaller cam than what you'd think. 

From the testing I've done, you gain around 100 rpm of peak hp rpm per 10 cfm that the head flow goes up.  If you go from something like a C8AE-H head that flows around 220cfm up to a 330 cfm Trick Flow head, you can see why the cam change would be necessary.

If you stick a set of C8AE-H heads on a 445 short block, with plans to upgrade to TFS heads down the road, I would cam the engine for the TFS heads. 

As a rough example to try and illustrate the point better, back in the day when we were using Edelbrock heads, I would get about 475-500hp with a 445 and an Edelbrock head with a good valve job, bowl blend, 11/32" valves, etc.  I'd use a 235 @ .050" duration camshaft to get there.  When the TFS heads came out, I found that I could make 540-550 hp with them, but use a smaller camshaft at around 230 @ .050" duration.  Those Edelbrock heads were about 280-290 cfm, where as the TFS heads sit at around 330.  So you could see how much more camshaft you would need to try to get a 445 to work decently with a C8 factory head.  As a matter of fact, you'd probably never really be able to add enough camshaft to get them to make horsepower and you could end up with something that didn't have bottom end or top end either one.  You'd end up with a huge cam and then when you swapped heads to the TFS heads, you'd end up with something that would be making a ton more horsepower at a much higher rpm than what would be suitable for your application. 

Hope that makes more sense.

6
FE Technical Forum / Re: 1970 f250 390 build
« on: May 10, 2024, 04:56:00 PM »
I'd do the bottom end first.  You can swap heads in the vehicle.  You could always cam for the heads you plan to switch to.

This answers a question I've been wondering about for awhile now regarding using a cam spec'd for a different set of heads that will be the "end game" for the engine.  Thanks for throwing that out there Brent.

Yep, the cylinder head is a huge variable in what cam specs are needed.  I've done this many times for guys who build a short block, use factory heads, but plan on adding good heads down the road.  You end up with a small cam for the factory headed engine, but a cam that's just right for what's coming down the road. 

7
FE Technical Forum / Re: 1970 f250 390 build
« on: May 10, 2024, 05:08:43 AM »
Say you wanted to end up with an aluminum headed 445 stroker, but didn't have the funds to handy to do it in one step.  Would your two step approach be:

A. Heads/custom cam now; add 445 bottom end later

or

B. 445 bottom end first and choke it out with OE heads until future replacement with TFS/BBM heads.

 ???

I'd do the bottom end first.  You can swap heads in the vehicle.  You could always cam for the heads you plan to switch to. 

8
That has to be the biggest cam I've ever seen!  2379 degrees of duration!  :D

9
FE Technical Forum / Re: Aftermarket head availability?
« on: May 02, 2024, 02:02:32 PM »
You'll have to decide how far down the rabbit hole you wanna go.  Maybe start with a horsepower or performance goal and aim for that.  An Edelbrock headed 390 can make 400 hp pretty easily. 


10
FE Technical Forum / Re: Aftermarket head availability?
« on: May 02, 2024, 08:29:16 AM »
Blue Thunder isn't a contender anymore. 

Edelbrock is on the shelf (depending on what flavor you want), but they're really not much more than a factory CJ head in comparison. 

Trick Flow is my fave, but they're backordered for a couple more months from what I understand. 

Can't speak for Barry or BBM on availability. 

11
I find it really troubling that some guys think that they are entitled to the intellectual property of others. 

Person 1:  "I've been at the dyno all day long.  I've spent $1000 on cams and spent an 8 hour day there swapping cams out." 

Person 2:  "Give me your information or I'll throw a tantrum and threaten to leave the forum."

12
FE Technical Forum / Re: Cam sizing for 390 question
« on: April 29, 2024, 04:51:02 AM »
Yeah, that's a small cam indeed.  Meant for heavy towing/lugging. 

13
Some confusion. You sold this customer an engine/cam that does not work well
with their transmission gearing and it's the customers fault?

But let's think of options here on what could have happened:

1.  Car was finished way after the engine was finished and the goals changed as the car progressed.
2.  Had originally planned on a C4, but the engine made so much power that the customer decided on a PG.
3.  Customer thought he may like to spray to hit 1000 hp and then decided he wanted the high 1st gear ratio to help with that.


14
~5500.  Agreed.  The PG just isn't a good fit, especially with that high 1st gear.

15
A Clevor is a Windsor block with Cleveland heads. 

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