POP Rocker stands

[My427stang]

I lost track of what this build is LOL

However, I do agree, the Molnars are really nice, and if they will deliver as soon as you want, then go for it. All the benefits of a modern rod and lighter than the SCAT, and really it's as close to a "big dollar" connecting rod as you can get for an FE without paying a big premium.  Strokers have more choices.  Downsides, if you don't have one, you'll need a torque/angle style torque wrench

Nothing wrong with the SCAT, but, it's a sledgehammer, they are heavier.  If you need a rebalance, it can take more to correct. The nice thing about them is availability, strength, standard torque procedures, and like the Molnars (and all capscrew rods) the cap is located by a bushing instead of the shank of the bolt.  Not to many aftermarket rods rely on a bolt to locate the cap like a stocker.  Overkill?  Depends on the power and RPM you end up turning. 

For a long time I have wished they'd add a capscrew I-beam to the SCAT FE line up, but unless we all start squealing I don't see it happening.  It would be a good match for what I think you are doing.

The compression is a thing to watch though, I haven't measured as many TFS chambers as Brent, but have had a few through here, and 2 sets on the shelf that I recently measured.  They have all come in at 69.7-69.9 cc, that's quite a bit smaller than a Ford or other aftermarket head.  I would add another thing to check though, if you are running Speed Pro pistons, look very close at radial valve clearance too.  They have both shallow and small diameter valve reliefs, and to add to the confusion, left and right banks tend to be slightly different when installed with notch forward

Too many cooks in the kitchen here though, just remember, plan the flight, fly the plan....   Since you are taking a knee waiting for rods, maybe mock it all up and check clearances, to include valve, deck height, intake fitment, thrust, mains, etc, and then when the rods come in you'll have everything ready

[galaxiex]

Sincere thanks to all for the thoughts and info.

Block has been decked and pistons are within .010 of the deck. Probably less than .010. Likely close to zero.
I don't remember the spec, but easy enough for me to get.
I'll get out in the garage sometime this weekend and measure.
I don't have a bridge tool, but I do have a depth mic.

I will probably end up re-checking all setup/mockup clearances and keep records this time... 


I didn't keep a build log on first assembly (dumb) since I didn't anticipate changing directions on the build.
I just checked stuff as I went along and called it good.


Can't rely on the memory anymore, so I'll recheck it all.

[My427stang]

Be sure to check the radial valve clearance with clay and slug the lifter or get a solid.  The speedpro pistons are marginal at 2.09/1.67 and you are at 2.19 intake...better save than sorry and best to do both banks (or even all if very close to good)

Edited for valve size typo

[galaxiex]

Be sure to check the radial valve clearance with clay and slug the lifter or get a solid.  The speedpro pistons are marginal at 2.05/1.67 and you are at 2.19 intake...better save than sorry and best to do both banks (or even all if very close to good)

Yep, I will do that for sure.

Pistons are L2303N +.040

Deck heights measured a very consistent .004" in the hole.
Rocked the pistons, took several measurements each on all 8 holes.


BTW didja hear about the guy that asked his machine shop to put a line under #6 so he wouldn't confuse it with #9?


 

 


I DO remember the first time I mocked up the short block.


Deck heights were all over the place, so I took it back to the shop and had them cut it.

[galaxiex]

So a slightly different topic....

Drilling an oiling hole in the galley plugs.

I have typically drilled approx .030 hole in the main galley plug right above the cam gear, on the few FE builds I have done.

"Some" of the shop manuals I have, show a hole with a "jiggle pin" at that location.
Others don't show any hole at all.
I figured it can't hurt esp with a HV pump.

Now, what about drilling a .030 hole in the plug behind the distributor?
Thinking it would provide extra lube to the steel cam and dist gear.

What say you?

[blykins]

So a slightly different topic....

Drilling an oiling hole in the galley plugs.

I have typically drilled approx .030 hole in the main galley plug right above the cam gear, on the few FE builds I have done.

"Some" of the shop manuals I have, show a hole with a "jiggle pin" at that location.
Others don't show any hole at all.
I figured it can't hurt esp with a HV pump.

Now, what about drilling a .030 hole in the plug behind the distributor?
Thinking it would provide extra lube to the steel cam and dist gear.

What say you?

The distributor shaft and gear get lubricated by the oil feed coming from the front cam bearing.   They get plenty of oil from the pressurized oil plus the splash oiling.  I do not do anything different here and have never seen any evidence of wear. 

One thing you do need to double check, though, is to make sure the lower/right thrust plate bolt doesn't go too deep.  Any aftermarket bolt will be too long and it will block the oil feed.  I use aftermarket bolts, but I cut them off at 5/8".  At that length, you will not block the feed. 

On a similar but separate note, if you have an early block that's been converted from cam button to thrust plate, you will need to groove a thrust plate bolt so that it will pass oil.  The factory hole there is counterbored and you have to use a longer bolt or you won't have enough thread engagement.  The longer bolt blocks the feed, so you have to slot the bolt so it can move oil.

As for drilling the galley plug above the cam gear, I don't do that either, as there is a huge drain hole coming from the lifter valley that dumps out right above the timing gear. 

[galaxiex]

So a slightly different topic....

Drilling an oiling hole in the galley plugs.

I have typically drilled approx .030 hole in the main galley plug right above the cam gear, on the few FE builds I have done.

"Some" of the shop manuals I have, show a hole with a "jiggle pin" at that location.
Others don't show any hole at all.
I figured it can't hurt esp with a HV pump.

Now, what about drilling a .030 hole in the plug behind the distributor?
Thinking it would provide extra lube to the steel cam and dist gear.

What say you?

The distributor shaft and gear get lubricated by the oil feed coming from the front cam bearing.   They get plenty of oil from the pressurized oil plus the splash oiling.  I do not do anything different here and have never seen any evidence of wear. 

One thing you do need to double check, though, is to make sure the lower/right thrust plate bolt doesn't go too deep.  Any aftermarket bolt will be too long and it will block the oil feed.  I use aftermarket bolts, but I cut them off at 5/8".  At that length, you will not block the feed. 

On a similar but separate note, if you have an early block that's been converted from cam button to thrust plate, you will need to groove a thrust plate bolt so that it will pass oil.  The factory hole there is counterbored and you have to use a longer bolt or you won't have enough thread engagement.  The longer bolt blocks the feed, so you have to slot the bolt so it can move oil.

As for drilling the galley plug above the cam gear, I don't do that either, as there is a huge drain hole coming from the lifter valley that dumps out right above the timing gear. 

Thanks Brent,
This is a  later block and I have the factory cam thrust plate with the slot, and the factory plate retainer screws.
Good to know about the dist oiling and no mods needed there.

Was thinking to put some ARP cam plate retainer bolts in it.
They have the shallow hex heads, but I would check and make sure the threads aren't too long.

Ya, with that huge drain hole in the valley that dumps on the cam gear, makes me wonder why some engines have that jiggle pin.
I refreshed a 65 352 timing chain a number of years ago, and I remember it had the jiggle pin.

[blykins]

So a slightly different topic....

Drilling an oiling hole in the galley plugs.

I have typically drilled approx .030 hole in the main galley plug right above the cam gear, on the few FE builds I have done.

"Some" of the shop manuals I have, show a hole with a "jiggle pin" at that location.
Others don't show any hole at all.
I figured it can't hurt esp with a HV pump.

Now, what about drilling a .030 hole in the plug behind the distributor?
Thinking it would provide extra lube to the steel cam and dist gear.

What say you?

The distributor shaft and gear get lubricated by the oil feed coming from the front cam bearing.   They get plenty of oil from the pressurized oil plus the splash oiling.  I do not do anything different here and have never seen any evidence of wear. 

One thing you do need to double check, though, is to make sure the lower/right thrust plate bolt doesn't go too deep.  Any aftermarket bolt will be too long and it will block the oil feed.  I use aftermarket bolts, but I cut them off at 5/8".  At that length, you will not block the feed. 

On a similar but separate note, if you have an early block that's been converted from cam button to thrust plate, you will need to groove a thrust plate bolt so that it will pass oil.  The factory hole there is counterbored and you have to use a longer bolt or you won't have enough thread engagement.  The longer bolt blocks the feed, so you have to slot the bolt so it can move oil.

As for drilling the galley plug above the cam gear, I don't do that either, as there is a huge drain hole coming from the lifter valley that dumps out right above the timing gear. 

Thanks Brent,
This is a  later block and I have the factory cam thrust plate with the slot, and the factory plate retainer screws.
Good to know about the dist oiling and no mods needed there.

Was thinking to put some ARP cam plate retainer bolts in it.
They have the shallow hex heads, but I would check and make sure the threads aren't too long.

Ya, with that huge drain hole in the valley that dumps on the cam gear, makes me wonder why some engines have that jiggle pin.
I refreshed a 65 352 timing chain a number of years ago, and I remember it had the jiggle pin.

I've always heard that the jiggle pin was to bleed air out.   Not sure, but Ford didn't use them on all FE's.  I just tap that hole for a pipe plug and plug it. 

I think there were a lot of things that Ford phased out over time because of technology updates.

[67xr7cat]

The jiggle pin is to make sure no air gets trapped in the passage. Think at some point Ford realized it was not needed.

[blykins]

So a slightly different topic....

Drilling an oiling hole in the galley plugs.

I have typically drilled approx .030 hole in the main galley plug right above the cam gear, on the few FE builds I have done.

"Some" of the shop manuals I have, show a hole with a "jiggle pin" at that location.
Others don't show any hole at all.
I figured it can't hurt esp with a HV pump.

Now, what about drilling a .030 hole in the plug behind the distributor?
Thinking it would provide extra lube to the steel cam and dist gear.

What say you?

The distributor shaft and gear get lubricated by the oil feed coming from the front cam bearing.   They get plenty of oil from the pressurized oil plus the splash oiling.  I do not do anything different here and have never seen any evidence of wear. 

One thing you do need to double check, though, is to make sure the lower/right thrust plate bolt doesn't go too deep.  Any aftermarket bolt will be too long and it will block the oil feed.  I use aftermarket bolts, but I cut them off at 5/8".  At that length, you will not block the feed. 

On a similar but separate note, if you have an early block that's been converted from cam button to thrust plate, you will need to groove a thrust plate bolt so that it will pass oil.  The factory hole there is counterbored and you have to use a longer bolt or you won't have enough thread engagement.  The longer bolt blocks the feed, so you have to slot the bolt so it can move oil.

As for drilling the galley plug above the cam gear, I don't do that either, as there is a huge drain hole coming from the lifter valley that dumps out right above the timing gear. 

Thanks Brent,
This is a  later block and I have the factory cam thrust plate with the slot, and the factory plate retainer screws.
Good to know about the dist oiling and no mods needed there.

Was thinking to put some ARP cam plate retainer bolts in it.
They have the shallow hex heads, but I would check and make sure the threads aren't too long.

Ya, with that huge drain hole in the valley that dumps on the cam gear, makes me wonder why some engines have that jiggle pin.
I refreshed a 65 352 timing chain a number of years ago, and I remember it had the jiggle pin.

BTW, no need to buy ARP bolts for the thrust plate unless you already have them.  There isn't enough load on that thrust plate to really justify an ARP fastener.  Most hex head cap screws will clear the timing set, so I just buy 7/16-14 x 3/4 bolts in bulk and cut them off to 5/8 to clear that oiling passage.  The bolt that goes into the passenger side lifter gallery can be left long.

[67xr7cat]

I've always heard that the jiggle pin was to bleed air out.   Not sure, but Ford didn't use them on all FE's.  I just tap that hole for a pipe plug and plug it. 

I think there were a lot of things that Ford phased out over time because of technology updates.

Got treed... LOL. 

[Wayne l]

Any of you modify that large drain hole in the valley? Years ago the machine shop I used ground that hole into an oval shape, the guy said it would help get the oil down to the pan quicker. I'm still running the 428 with no problems so I guess it didn't hurt anything.
Just wondering if it really helps or just snake oil. 

[blykins]

Any of you modify that large drain hole in the valley? Years ago the machine shop I used ground that hole into an oval shape, the guy said it would help get the oil down to the pan quicker. I'm still running the 428 with no problems so I guess it didn't hurt anything.
Just wondering if it really helps or just snake oil.

In most cases, I grind the bottom of the hole to get rid of that casting flash.   But you're right, it doesn't seem to hurt anything.   Lots of oil coming through there.

[frnkeore]

Regarding the Jiggle pin, in my opinion it's only purpose (even though Ford say's it to purge air) was to oil the timing chain. On the early blocks, the front wall, does not have a hole, to drain oil into the timing area. I have to drill my Edsel block to get that return hole.

The jiggle pin is addressed in Ford manuals, until the 1963 year, when the trust plate was used. So, I assume, that was the year that the front return hole was added.

I felt the need to clarify that to point out that if you have a jiggle pin or a converted block, to a thrust plate, you need to make sure that there is a return hole on the passenger side, front wall, to get oil to the timing area.

[blykins]

Regarding the Jiggle pin, in my opinion it's only purpose (even though Ford say's it to purge air) was to oil the timing chain. On the early blocks, the front wall, does not have a hole, to drain oil into the timing area. I have to drill my Edsel block to get that return hole.

The jiggle pin is addressed in Ford manuals, until the 1963 year, when the trust plate was used. So, I assume, that was the year that the front return hole was added.

I felt the need to clarify that to point out that if you have a jiggle pin or a converted block, to a thrust plate, you need to make sure that there is a return hole on the passenger side, front wall, to get oil to the timing area.

I did a ‘61 T-Bird 390 that had the button and the big hole in the front.