Author Topic: Distributor stuck in block.  (Read 2423 times)

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jmlay

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Re: Distributor stuck in block.
« Reply #15 on: October 26, 2023, 03:26:48 PM »
You may not be getting enough heat. If not using MAPP gas, go to the home store & grab a yellow bottle. MAPP will provide more heat.
Mike

bsprowl

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Re: Distributor stuck in block.
« Reply #16 on: October 26, 2023, 07:57:08 PM »
Tapping the drive will do little.  The body is corroded to the block.  Breaking that corrosion is the real problem.  You need to get your liquid of choice below the top gasket so it can work on the corrosion.  If the block is out of the car then attack the problem from the bottom. Tapping on the bottom of the distributor itself after the joint has soaked in your liquid of choice is your best approach. May take several soakings.

I put a light coating of anti-seize on the body of the distributor before assembly. Probably a waste of time as my stuff seldom stays together for long. 

Rory428

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Re: Distributor stuck in block.
« Reply #17 on: October 27, 2023, 10:20:36 AM »
I don`t want to be a "downer", but sometimes, corrosion is just too severe to have a happy ending. About 10 years ago, I bought a 59 Ford parts car, that had a 68 390 just setting on the mounts, but never fully installed. The guy I bought it from, claimed that the 390 ran great, when he pulled it from a Galaxie, and stuck it in the 59, and get around to having it driving "some day". Some day turned into a few years, with the car sitting outside, with no carb, but a towel and tarp over the engine. Anyhow, when I got the car home, the crank wouldn`t budge, even with a breaker bar, so I tried all kinds of penetrating oils and homebrew concoctions that were "sure to free it up". I was in no rush, so over a period of about 3 months, I poured the following liquids down the intake manifold carb holes, and filled the cylinders as far as I could, be the following, all tried after allowing each to attempt to soak in for at least 2 weeks each. I tried PB Blaster, Marvel Mystery Oil, Liquid Wrench, diesel fuel, ATF, ATF mixed with solvent, and brake fluid. Each liquid was allowed to set for several days, when I would try to get the crankshaft to turn, and with all those "cures", and all that time, it never would budge. At that point, I figured it would be nice to at least be able to salvage the crank and rods, and hopefully the block, so I pulled the engine and removed the oil pan. The bottom end actually looked pretty clean, with no rust on the crank and ros, the bearings even looked decent. But when I tried to knock out the pistons that had the rods positioned in a location where the nuts for the rod caps could be removed, it was evident that the problem was that the pistons were totally corroded to the cylinder wall. I was able to get a few of pistons out, by really hammering the hell out of the pistons from below, and a couple of the pistons shattered in the attempt. After 3 months of various fluids, none of them ever made their way down the sides of the pistons at all. The rest of the rods, I had to cut off with a torch, to be able to remove the crankshaft, which was surprisedly in great condition. Other than the crank and 3 rods, the rest went on the scrap pile. The aluminum pistons were all that white fuzzy mess, and I guess that caused them to expand and eliminate any clearance between the piston and cylinder walls, and prevent any type of fluid to get past.
1978 Fairmont,FE 427 with 428 crank, 4 speed Jerico best of 9.972@132.54MPH 1.29 60 foot
1985 Mustang HB 331 SB Ford, 4 speed Jerico, best of 10.29@128 MPH 1.40 60 foot.
1974 F350 race car hauler 390 NP435 4 speed
1959 Ford Meteor 2 dr sedan. 428 Cobra Jet, 4 speed Toploader. 12.54@ 108 MPH

dozz302

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Re: Distributor stuck in block.
« Reply #18 on: November 05, 2023, 10:21:28 AM »
Well, it finally came out undamaged.
I used the PB Blaster & heat mostly. Probably used the torch from under the intake and the front of the block at least 10 times in each spot spraying PB when warm so when it cooled it could get in when the metals are moving & tapping in many spots. Spraying a couple times a day also. Last thing I did was put vinegar on it once after heating then the next morning put an oil filter wrench around the top (really nice fit) and wrapped duct tape around the top as to not damage the casting flipping over so sticky side was out for more grip. Pulled pretty hard then.....it moved an 1/8". Thats when I knew I had it licked. Back and forth for about 30 minutes and she came out. Patience patience patience
What I learned was first make sure the nose of the shaft it not seized in the block. If so free it up with PB Blaster (or similar) with heat.
If still stuck, then you know exactly where. (the aluminum housing is seized on the 2 1/4" wide rings that seat it in the block).
This all, start to finish took about a little less than 2 weeks.
« Last Edit: November 05, 2023, 10:28:22 AM by dozz302 »

TomP

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Re: Distributor stuck in block.
« Reply #19 on: November 10, 2023, 06:15:17 PM »
I had one like Rory's in a 67 Tbird back in 1977 when I was 16. It sat for ten or more years and I actually got it to fire up but decided the timing was off... no amount of effort would get it to move. I broke out the seal so I could spray down, then undid the intake and pivoted it around so I could spray where it was stuck in the block. Finally pulled the pan (all while in the TBird still) and tried to punch it up. Mangled the distributor completely and then sawed it off so I could get the intake off. Still could not budge it and the block got chucked and the car scrapped. Neighbor pair $500 for it with the intention of driving it!

Hemi Joel

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Re: Distributor stuck in block.
« Reply #20 on: November 12, 2023, 01:43:44 AM »
  ...i then tried tapping the starter WHILE pushing on the bar on the crank at the same time and it started spinning...

How did you not get hit by the breaker bar when the starter spun it?

machoneman

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Re: Distributor stuck in block.
« Reply #21 on: November 12, 2023, 08:11:34 AM »
So, why didn't Ford use the more common design of dropping the ditzy freely and holding it down ala' the SBC & later Windsor/Cleveland designs, flat mating surfaces and a thin, flat gasket?
Bob Maag

Mark Bliss

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Re: Distributor stuck in block.
« Reply #22 on: November 12, 2023, 11:17:03 AM »
The FE Power brain trust wasn't around for the engineers to ask.
Well most of them anyway...

Rory428

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Re: Distributor stuck in block.
« Reply #23 on: November 12, 2023, 09:18:33 PM »
No Ford pushrod V8 uses a flat distributor gasket like a Chevy, and they all have the block machined for a close fit of the distributor body. I have had 351C distributors stuck in the block, just like a FE can. The SB Windsor, 351C, 351M-400, and 429-460s use a rubber O ring to seal the distributor to the block.
1978 Fairmont,FE 427 with 428 crank, 4 speed Jerico best of 9.972@132.54MPH 1.29 60 foot
1985 Mustang HB 331 SB Ford, 4 speed Jerico, best of 10.29@128 MPH 1.40 60 foot.
1974 F350 race car hauler 390 NP435 4 speed
1959 Ford Meteor 2 dr sedan. 428 Cobra Jet, 4 speed Toploader. 12.54@ 108 MPH

driveamerican

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Re: Distributor stuck in block.
« Reply #24 on: December 06, 2023, 06:20:40 AM »
I have been through this and for me it was self inflicted. The distributor wasn't fully seated when the intake was tightened then after timing was set and distributor was tight it all became one piece. I had to pull the intake to get it loose. I would guess this happens quite often and when it is self inflicted as in my case it only happened twice lol. I learned to fully seat the distributor before fully tightening the intake.

machoneman

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Re: Distributor stuck in block.
« Reply #25 on: December 06, 2023, 07:58:17 AM »
No Ford pushrod V8 uses a flat distributor gasket like a Chevy, and they all have the block machined for a close fit of the distributor body. I have had 351C distributors stuck in the block, just like a FE can. The SB Windsor, 351C, 351M-400, and 429-460s use a rubber O ring to seal the distributor to the block.

True Rory and I knew that. I should have used the Fords with the rubber 0-ring as an example rather than the Chevy.

But, I still wonder why Ford's engineers used this system on the FE series. And yes, I've had a share of stuck ditzys on FE's and C's but not as bad as our poster detailed. Btw, I can't remember any GM make (Olds, Buick, Pontiac, etc.) I ever worked on that had a similar ditzy seal like the FE's...unless I've forgotten!
Bob Maag