B Links is slightly mistaken on this one:  Stock HD damped springs look like that, with variable coil spacing.

The close coils should be on the bottom to reduce un spring weight.  The idea is they have looser seat pressure, but gain open pressure as the spring compresses.

THis has nothing to do with your oil issue.

The valve guides and/or seals may be shot.

Also, if the rear drain back holes are not well draining down into th eblock, they may hold oil into the heads.

A decent refresh of the heads should be between $400 and $800.  Id fix them up stock.  You can get valves with 0.017 larger stems to fit cleaned up valve guides; much cheaper than installing new guides, and last longer too!

Las Vegas, lighter oil in winter, heavier in summer, it's hot there, but maybe even 20-50 for autocross or road racing.  Do you have an oil cooler?

R U going roller cam?  If so which brand and what are approx specs?

I had my print-o-seals fail after 1 or 2 hrs total running on the start stand, and sitting for about a year.  I pulled the intake and like the picture above, they were spitting apart!

I prefer either stock Napa gaskets or Mr Gasket or Edelbrock.

Maybe Felpro has a performance series thats better, but i was so disgusted with the print-o-seals i wont buy their products.

glad you fixed the spacer.  A speedi-sleve would have made your life easier!

Oregon cams can custom grind you what you want.  They can even regrind your stock cam. Ken loves the FE.

Comments from Royce P on the "other FE Forum, FordFE.com says they are race only, not so good on street.  Once i got my pair of stock 1990's 1850s worked out, they are really good now. One set has no choke towers, that's ok in July, but sucks now its January, so i put a choke carb on front for winter driving. Quick Fuels are tunable also, maybe a better option if you want to play with jetting and air emulsions.

here is an external link:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182/thread/1203786562/carbs+for+a+2x4+bbl+medium+riser

"They are race only carbs that don't have metering blocks. I'll go further and suggest they are probably best for either 500 mile oval track or long distance power boat racing. They are awful on the street unless you replace the primary metering blocks with metering blocks that are capable of accepting power valves.

The BT - BU carbs are actually pretty decent on a 427. They are a little big for some mild engines. Good if you have 500 CI, lots of cam and lots of compression.

The BC - BD carbs were original on the '65 - 67 Medium Riser though and at 652 CFM they are plenty of carb on the street. If you want the OEM carbs that came on a 427 Cobra, these are them.

The BJ / BK carbs are 600CFM and also work great on a Medium Riser. They were original equipment on the late '63 - 64 427 Low Riser. They provide excellent driveability although you probably won't notice any difference from the BC - BD's.

I've tried all of the above carbs on my own stroked 427 (448 CI). In a Cobra kit car you won't have any traction so my recommendation would be either the BC - BD or the BJ / BK carbs.

"

cattleFEeder

What Headers are you running? Sanderson Shorties?

What brand air filter are you running.  Tony Branda offers an S&B http://www.cobranda.com/sbovairfielt.html, and summit/jegs has the K&N which i think is a little taller, and $40 more $$.

Summit generic plastic spacer:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all25983?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-allstar-performance&gclid=Cj0KEQiA5IHEBRCLr_PZvq2_6qcBEiQAL4cQ02nvo2QJPKSv8SgNe5kFg06zpg4AqnLKBupd3ypPmFYaAo898P8HAQ

or wood (?)

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1402/overview/

Holley:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-17-59/overview/

ebay cheap
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-Ported-Phenolic-Carburetor-Spacer-4bbl-Fits-Holley-SB-Chevy-Ford-SBC-BBC-BB-/180915455947

Moroso wood:
http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/700/710/710-65017.jpg

edelbrock wood

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Edelbrock-Carburetor-Spacer-4-Barrel-Square-Bore-1-2-Wood-4-Hole-8723-/331663273413