FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => Member Projects => Topic started by: blykins on October 31, 2019, 10:17:21 AM
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I've always wanted to do one of the builds where you basically take a known running engine and slowly modify it and change parts until you end up with a fully fresh build.
I recently found a local 1966 352, complete from end to end. It was a good deal, delivered at $250, out of a running pickup, so I snagged it.
I think she's beautiful:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48991100452_ce60f50b67_c.jpg)
It's got a new 2bbl carb and I think the previous owner said it was an 80000 mile motor. We'll see.
In the next couple of weeks, it's going on the dyno for a baseline. I'm open to suggestions on the logistical order of changing parts, but in the end I want it to end up as a hydraulic roller, TFS headed engine.
If it proves to be a somewhat firm foundation for the project, I may get a baseline and immediately slap a 4bbl intake/carb on and see what it nets me.
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You doing this project is like Christmas come early for me. ;D
I threw everything in the shop at a stock 352 in a 64 Galaxie for a couple of years just to see what would happen ahead of a 427 swap.
I can't wait to see some real dyno numbers with your skill and experience at work.
I can say that the untouched bottom end never gave up under 1x4, 3x2, and 2x4 (even a silly cross ram for a time) and it looked dapper with 64 427 manifolds on it.
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This sounds like an awesome project. Assuming the rotating assembly is good and not massive leakdown or worn out problems there, I'd like to see an approach to how most driveway hobbyists would approach upgrading the 352 one step at a time. Where would the hobbyist see the most bang for the buck, etc.
0. Swap that oil bath air cleaner for paper filter, just for grins.
1. Swap intake (mild port blend), 4 barrel carb, headers, duraspark ignition with recurved dizzy
2. Cam + valve springs
3. Rebuilt heads with decent valve job, oversized valves, mild port job, decent rocker assembly
3. Rebuild bottom end with 390 crank and rods
4. TFS heads
5. Bottom end with 4.25 stroker kit
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The engine will stay stock stroke for sure and I'll just have to plan logistically around cylinder heads, small bores, and cam swaps.
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Does it have to stay naturally aspirated???
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Yep.
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This is cool, Brent.
I always been a fan of the 352, and I hope you keep it at that displacement for as long as possible and see what can be wrung out of a short stroke, high rpm, large port motor before giving into the herd mentality and dropping in the long arm crank.
Start with the Intake and Carb
Exhaust
Cam
Compression (pistons first, then heads???)
Save the crank for last, unless the one that is in there is toast.
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Brent, I just PM you. I meant 352 in the header. Garry
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I think it would be cool just to see the logical horsepower progression of a guy upgrading a pickup truck engine. What do guys typically do with a 70's pickup?
1) recurve distrubutor and try to optimize spark, new wires, new plugs, etc
2) Upgrade intake manifold, likely an edelbrock performer with 650 or 750 carb
3) Headers
4) Cam & lifters w/ rocker arm upgrade
5) Heads
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Since we're all spending Brents money here, I vote for having those stock iron heads CNC'd by Blair and see what they do prior to swapping to TFS heads.
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Since we're all spending Brents money here, I vote for having those stock iron heads CNC'd by Blair and see what they do prior to swapping to TFS heads.
Yeah, that's not in the budget LOL
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this is great , will be watching . what rpm will the dyno pulls start , wondering about low end torque .
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Are a set of Blair's 352 pistons in the budget at some point? I'm with the rest with it being easy to spend your money for you. I do have a vested interest as I have a set of headers for my 352 (thanks John V.) sitting here in a box waiting for time, and money, and ambition to intersect.
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I will be using my own custom 352 pistons and a unique arrangement for the rods.
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I find this fun project very interesting, especially since I seriously thought about having the 352 in my old truck updated...right before I said to heck with it and grabbed a bbm block while one was available. No regrets though I'm still looking for an excuse/opportunity to have my original 352 done up right.
If this 352 responds with updated parts in proportion to the 482 that is currently in my truck, it may very well make more hp and lb/ft while getting more mpg than the stock 390 I had for a while. Shouldn't be too hard since my 482 got about the same mpg as my 390 did when the truck had the same gearing. Now my 482 gets better mpg with overdrive than the 390 did without it.
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I think you should have a guess the hp. game on it as it is now. I'll say 218.
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In this order truck headers intake and 4bbl. Maybe some pistons with a decent compression height and some port work on the stock after that the your stroker kit and tfs heads .Doug
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1. Timing chain set/Damper/headers/tune up
2. Gasket matched Streetmaster/Holley Street Dominator/Ported Performer 390
3. Summit 750 carb
4. Dura Spark Distributor with recurve and box
5. Hydraulic roller with 224-228* @ .050, .550" 106* ICL 112 LC
6. Port heads, 2.100/1.600 11/32 hollow stem valves with beehive springs and titanium retainers
7. Mill heads
8. Your rocker system with custom pushrods. (#6-8 at same time)
9. Rebuild bottom end with crankshaft ground and rods turned down to 2.200" for 6.800" rods, Forged pistons 1.5/1.5/3.0.
10.Canton oil pan with windage screen, stock blueprinted oil pump, distributor drive, roller timing set/cam change?
11. TFS heads/Ported Street Dominator
Joe-JDC
This seems like Deja Vu from a couple of years ago?
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IF budget allows it would be cool to see what a intake swap and headers netted....kind of like the basic mechanical skills of a newby maybe...just to see.
It would be too much to see it all....that would be 3 or 4 dyno sessions.
We all know a good cam with TFS heads will make it scream along with a performer...curious to see this play out. What is it going it, or just to be sold later?
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In response to Joe....
Maybe, I have random engine fantasies that come and go.
I'm going to limit the amount of parts swapping as much as I can to help with the budget. Won't be buying a couple of cams, nor will I be porting the factory heads. I'm not a head porter and I hate to spend money in the same area twice.
Other items on your list will be done just by default. The dyno won't accept manifolds, so it will get headers off the bat, as well as triggering an MSD box.
Seems like we're all generally on the same page though, except everyone else's lists are longer than mine ROFL
If I do take it down, I'll probably work in a 4bbl manifold swap on the same day to save dyno sessions.
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What happened to your other 352 project from a while back with the enclosed cam tunnel?
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Cam tunnel came out and I had to use the block for a build.
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Hi Brent, on a 352 is the RPM regulated buy the bearing circumference it would be fun to make a high rever . Leny Mason
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The bearing diameter does come into play. I will not be using an FE rod on this one. I will prob aim for 7500-8000 rpm with one of my hydraulic rollers.
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Well, the first iterations of project Junky Junk are complete.
I'm very reluctant to jam new parts into this filthy engine, so I'm gonna take a little break and map out the plan for next year.
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How about a vote?
1. Go through the C6AE-R heads, good valve job, good valves, correct springs, etc.
2. Go straight to TFS heads.
All-in-all, the engine is going to make the most peak hp with TFS heads, but I don't necessarily need to do a max effort 352, like Blair is. Originally, I thought I'd be headed the TFS way, but I almost think the C6 heads would be as fun to play with. I don't think I'd even port them, just put good parts on with a good VJ.
I have a really cherry Streetmaster intake to go on it. :)
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I vote for a good valvejob on the ironheads first
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I vote iron heads first. Good to see just what factory parts are capable of with a basic hop up.
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I vote for the iron heads.
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In keeping with the, every kids first hopped engine theme, iron heads. Basic rebuild with good parts.
Although I'd love to build an aluminum headed stroker for everything, stock iron for a lot of projects/people is still something that is relatable to a lot of people's builds.
And it's just fun to see how this Crusty the 352 project goes.
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Iron for sure....
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I don't plan on doing any port work. I really don't see the reason to spend a lot of money on this build and I think I can approach 500 hp with the factory heads, ported intake, and some carefully chosen bottom end and camshaft parts.
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It will save me a few bucks to go solid flat tappet as well. Yays? Nays?
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I do have an Isky EE-399 I've been saving for a special occasion.
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I do have an Isky EE-399 I've been saving for a special occasion.
Too much duration for the heads.
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It will save me a few bucks to go solid flat tappet as well. Yays? Nays?
Whatever keeps the project under control price wise gets a thumbs up from me. I'm curious to see what you get out of the old girl, along with the estimated cost to get there.
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It will save me a few bucks to go solid flat tappet as well. Yays? Nays?
282S?
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It will save me a few bucks to go solid flat tappet as well. Yays? Nays?
282S?
Not enough duration and I’ve rarely seen an FE scenario where a single pattern cam is optimal. It will get a custom cam from me, just need to determine if it’s gonna be a roller or a flattie.
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I do have an Isky EE-399 I've been saving for a special occasion.
EE-390 would be fun, I sold one a long time ago to someone, not sure where it ended up
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I would absolutely like to see a solid flat tappet cam used, provided it has similar attributes to the later hyd. roller you plan to use. Be interesting to see a comparison between the solid flat and the hyd. roller camshafts, with the same manners.
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Rory, this is gonna be a "one and done". Things get expensive, switching from flats to rollers, etc. Distributor gears have to change, pushrods, valve springs, oiling has to change, the whole nine yards.
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flat
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solid flat.
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I think I'll head that direction. It will save me some cash. Even a nitrided flat tappet cam with Trend tool steel lifters is cheaper than a hydraulic roller setup.
I will use my non-adjustable rocker arms and some lightened valves to help out with necessary spring pressures.
If I can find a good set of C0 small chamber cores, it will let me use a dish piston instead of a dome, which will cut down the piston weight considerably.
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I also am a fan of the solid. That its cheaper is just a plus.
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Project Junky Junk (or J^2, as Ross calls it), the gift that keeps on giving....
Had a few extra minutes today, so I went ahead and pulled the intake and heads off, just to see what everything looked like. Used my Craftsman 18V 1/2" impact and zipped everything off. We had used lithium grease on the intake gaskets so the intake would come off easy, so it literally took me 30 seconds to get it off.
The heads came off easily without much fuss. Had some copper shim gaskets underneath. Brought one piston to TDC and it was exactly .050" down.
Some good news:
1. Both heads ARE C6AE's. The sludge on one side made it look like a C8AE to me a few weeks ago. One head is for sure an R head. Not sure about the other yet.
2. A rough measurement of the cylinders reveal a 3.995" bore (with ridge) and absolutely no crosshatch.....LOL
Time for a rebuild.
I think I'm gonna just use the C6 heads. I was looking around for some small chamber heads, but I already have these and I'm sure they will clean up well. Looking around my shop, I found a set of 7mm bronze valve guides and some 7mm 2.100" titanium intake valves. Seems like a good start.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49118630622_63d2071230_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49117931363_598d9e27d4_z.jpg)
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Camshaft ordered! Solid flat tappet....
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Camshaft ordered! Solid flat tappet....
Do you mine giving the cam specs?
A interesting rod/piston combo might be 7.1 rod x 1.32 CH piston.
https://speedmaster79.com/H-Beam-7.100-2.200-.990-Bronze-Bush-4340-Connecting-Rods-Suits-Chevy-BBC-454
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Camshaft ordered! Solid flat tappet....
Do you mine giving the cam specs?
A interesting rod/piston combo might be 7.1 rod x 1.32 CH piston.
https://speedmaster79.com/H-Beam-7.100-2.200-.990-Bronze-Bush-4340-Connecting-Rods-Suits-Chevy-BBC-454
If they would fit the crank, I'd pay money to see Brent use a Speedmaster rod :)
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Camshaft ordered! Solid flat tappet....
Do you mine giving the cam specs?
A interesting rod/piston combo might be 7.1 rod x 1.32 CH piston.
https://speedmaster79.com/H-Beam-7.100-2.200-.990-Bronze-Bush-4340-Connecting-Rods-Suits-Chevy-BBC-454
If they would fit the crank, I'd pay money to see Brent use a Speedmaster rod :)
Hey, they would certainly fit the engine's name......
A high quality set of H-beam rods, all for the price of $228! I bet they're dandies!
Frank, it takes a lot of work to get an FE crank to a BBC journal. The diameter isn't the hard part, it's the width of the Chevy rod.
I have a plan on the rods that won't kill me on machine work.
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Maybe the 351M/400 deal?
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Maybe the 351M/400 deal?
That's what I had in mind. Molnar has some really nice 400 rods that would work great.
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I've never held a set of Speedo-master rods, and likely wouldn't unless I was throwing them at somebody, but good gawd, when you use the enlarge feature of the picture of those rods, that is some of the shoddiest machining I have ever seen. Nicks, gouges and uneven machining are pretty apparent, everywhere....and that is straight from the Speedo-master website!!
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I've never held a set of Speedo-master rods, and likely wouldn't unless I was throwing them at somebody, but good gawd, when you use the enlarge feature of the picture of those rods, that is some of the shoddiest machining I have ever seen. Nicks, gouges and uneven machining are pretty apparent, everywhere....and that is straight from the Speedo-master website!!
But they have blower manifolds in stock. So there's that.
Aptly named though. SpeedMaster. They are the masters at turning what was good castings into scrap iron and door stops at alarming speed.
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I have been a aircraft machinist since 1978 and did molds before that. I own my own machine shop (ELCO Machine and Fabrication) and was a sub-contractor for Erickson Air Crane. I retired in 2007 but, still have my machine shop.
Let me point some thing out about the rods........
1. They are 4340 and they are heat treated to 200k psi. The heat treat can be check by verifying the hardness (38-42 RC) and they can be X-rayed for inclusions if you have a friend in a X-ray room for free.
2. The bores can be measured for tolerance. Do that first, send them back if out of tolerance.
3. They seem to have more than 100 sets available so the pictures may be miss leading.
4. Chevs have a .067 offset, Fords have 0. The big ends can be machined to .873, with 0 offset. Bearing width is .893, I think and the bearings can be machined in the rods and the outside surface chamfered at the same time as the rod, to what ever filet the crank pin has. If you have a lathe large enough to swing the rod, you can do that in 2-3 hours.
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Let me point out something about Speedmaster, aka Procomp:
1. They copy everyone else's designs and then do a poor job of manufacturing them. They try to pass off their "3V" heads as CHI. They try to pass off their distributors as MSD. I could go on.
2. Almost everything I've seen from them has been a failure or a portrait of poor manufacturing.
3. I have seen guides and seats fall out of their heads. I've seen their roller rockers spit out the roller tips on break-in on the dyno. I've seen their intake manifolds have porosity. Again, I could go on.
4. There are good offshore products and there are bad. Speedmaster is below bad.
Even if I ignored the quality and just concentrated on the principle of their MO, I would have to pass. But on top of that, there's no way I would pay that money for their junk, have to "x-ray them", then check sizing on the big ends, and recheck everything else they have done when I can buy a set of Scat/Molnar/etc rods for a couple hundred more.
I'll pass.
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We don't ever seem to see eye to eye on anything nor be able to speak w/o crass.
You where approaching this on a cost saving bases and I was only trying to help. I do what I described to 400 chev rods (5.565) and install them in a 302 with 1.125 CH chev pistons and offset grind the crank .010, for a ~.006 deck height. It's a little easier, in that I can use chev V6 rod bearings.
Regarding copying, who does not copy Carrillo H beam rods? Aand I'm supersized that you don't check all rods for at least big end dimensions that come into your shop.
This would have been a good opportunity to test for HP differences in a long vs shorter rod engine.
I'm sorry I couldn't help.
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We don't ever seem to see eye to eye on anything nor be able to speak w/o crass.
You where approaching this on a cost saving bases and I was only trying to help. I do what I described to 400 chev rods (5.565) and install them in a 302 with 1.125 CH chev pistons and offset grind the crank .010, for a ~.006 deck height. It's a little easier, in that I can use chev V6 rod bearings.
Regarding copying, who does not copy Carrillo H beam rods? Aand I'm supersized that you don't check all rods for at least big end dimensions that come into your shop.
This would have been a good opportunity to test for HP differences in a long vs shorter rod engine.
I'm sorry I couldn't help.
Frank, I check everything and then some. Checking is one thing, but remachining something that is supposed to already be machined and right is another. Procomp has a reputation and I’m not into spending another $200-300 in time or labor to make those rods right.
I use specific brands because of their reputation and my experiences with them. I’m not saying there are brands that are perfect because we know that’s not true. However, some brands are known for their good quality and some are known for bad.
And no, we don’t see eye to eye on a lot of stuff, but that’s life.
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BTW Frank,
I'm not discounting your idea.
As a matter of fact, I'd much rather have a 7" or 7.100" rod and a shorter piston. However, I don't really see that being in the cards for this one as modifying rods and bearings is time consuming and this is a project that's not going to make me any money. I'm trying to be prudent and keep machining processes to a minimum.
I've done what you're describing several times, mainly on SBF engines, but the difference is that there are narrowed bearings already available and you don't have to cut them down. I've messed with 289's and 302's that used SBC 5.700" rods, which required quite a bit of work.
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Frank, do some research. None of the engine builders here use Speedmaster parts, for a reason. The parent company, ProComp, produces the crappiest parts that exist and sells them under several generic names, or names that unscrupulous sellers will make up just to try and throw off the consumer as to who actually makes them. Anybody with some experience knows their parts are crap and that they have the worst reputation for quality. It only takes a little research to find this out. Companies like this prey on the unknowing.
Why anyone would suggest to buy the known cheapest parts, with a horrible reputation, then spend several hundred dollars just to try and verify that they might be ok, is beyond me.
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Most Chinese knock-off parts are crude, heavy, or porous, or so light they move around with heat, and ugly replications of the good stuff. I have had three Funnel Web 302W intakes in my hands just recently to try to find the best one. A real one from Australia with the logo on the bottom of the intake, and two different knock-offs. One was so crude that I refused to do anything with it. The real Funnel Web flows over 370 cfm, and is a really neat manifold, but has thin bolt bosses. Otherwise it is an exceptional intake for a high performance 302. One of the knock off intakes is a very good copy, and it flows in the 330 cfm range. I have had that intake for 13 years, and it cost me $150.00. I thought it was real until I actually got a real one in my hands to compare. The biggest difference was the logo on the bottom, and the placement of the logos on the runners. Other than that, it looks nearly identical. The last one was a piece of junk that is a recent version, and it has EFI bungs all in the wrong places. Junk! I have done several SBC, and SBF intakes for folks that were cheap Summit/Pro Comp knock-off parts, and they are difficult to keep the burrs clean because the cast aluminum is just junk aluminum. So, using Pro Comp, Speedmaster, or whatever Chinese knock-off parts is a risk at best IMO. BTDT on too many intakes over the last 20 years. Give me a good Edelbrock, Blue Thunder, or Buddy Bar any day. Joe-JDC
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A few minutes of degreeing this morning....
Comes in at 186° @ .050", 247 @ .006". One lobe had .231" lobe lift....probably less worn than the other. 113 LSA, this one was in at 111.75 ICL.
Valve events:
IVO: 21
IVC: 27
EVO: 25
EVC: 19
Probably high on the list of dumbest things I've ever done, but hey, in the spirit of collecting data....
Y'all see anything wrong with the timing set setup?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49142377202_4335dc810f_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49141669898_0424a1d2b3_z.jpg)
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Looks like an aluminum camshaft gear, with nylon teeth? Missing teeth? Also, the cam pin isn't trapped with the washer. Joe-JDC
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Looks like a new chain on original gears. Rob
Edit realized probably done to degree accurately.
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The timing set is the one that was on it, nylon cam gear. Chain wasn’t in bad shape.
Cam washer wasn’t covering dowel. Ran like that for who knows how long.
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Top gear is on backwards. I guess it may work if they omitted the spacer. Kind of makes you question the quality of the rest of the work.
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To me, it looks like the chain was recently replaced as the chain has no varnish on it and the sprocket looks like someone tried to clean it. Looks like they either put a new chain on the sprocket with a broken tooth or, giving the benefit of doubt, the tooth broke afterward.
When Ford first came out with those alum/nylon sprockets (long before roller chain came on the market), I though they where great. Less weight and I thought they would be more durable but after seeing how they shed teeth and taking them out of a oil pump, I wouldn't ever use them.
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To me, it looks like the chain was recently replaced as the chain has no varnish on it and the sprocket looks like someone tried to clean it. Looks like they either put a new chain on the sprocket with a broken tooth or, giving the benefit of doubt, the tooth broke afterward.
When Ford first came out with those alum/nylon sprockets (long before roller chain came on the market), I though they where great. Less weight and I thought they would be more durable but after seeing how they shed teeth and taking them out of a oil pump, I wouldn't ever use them.
That’s my guess too. New chain, factory gears.
Eric, the cam gear is on correctly. You can even see the alignment dot if you zoom in.
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Waiting on UPS to show up, so I went ahead and stripped her all the way down.
All original bearings from 1966. Pretty cool. Rod bearings were all down to copper. Main bearings looked surprisingly good for 54 years of use. Goes to show you how tough these things are. It had 65 psi of oil pressure throughout all the dyno pulls.
All the pistons slid out of the bores without issue.
Remember what she looked like. The next picture of the block will be completely different.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49142730848_ab650cc49e_z.jpg)
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Have you decided on the cam yet?
Have you ever used the Melling 24302 cam?
INT. 7 BTC / 43 ABC 230 @.050 39 BTC 85 ABC 304 @.006 107 .320 Cam .554 1.73 HYD.
EXH. 45 BBC / 5 ATC 230 @ .050 77 BBC 47 ATC 304 @.006 111 .320 Cam .554 1.73 HYD.
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Those nylon gears aren't as bad as some think. They ran a ton of miles before they puked, and they cut down on harmonic transfer between the rotating parts and the valvetrain. My dad used to by 9-key lower gears from the Ford counter. We put those sets in everything we had. Even the race engines, and never had a failure with the meanest springs and roller cams of the late '70s. Sometime in the mid-80s we switched to double row "true roller" chains. I still have a few of those oldies for my own stuff. Not better, but not too bad, really.
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Have you decided on the cam yet?
Have you ever used the Melling 24302 cam?
INT. 7 BTC / 43 ABC 230 @.050 39 BTC 85 ABC 304 @.006 107 .320 Cam .554 1.73 HYD.
EXH. 45 BBC / 5 ATC 230 @ .050 77 BBC 47 ATC 304 @.006 111 .320 Cam .554 1.73 HYD.
Was gonna wait and post the cam card, but it may be a few weeks before it gets here since I'm having it nitrided.
280/288 advertised, 250/259 @ .050", .620"/.640" gross lift, 104 LSA, ground straight up.
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That will get the "Ol Girl" up on her tip toes :)
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Target static compression ratio?
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Target static compression ratio?
At this point I’ve got 10.5 in my head.
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Looks like a nice, docile street grind. lol.
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That's a very interesting LC you chose for the cam. Can you give us your thoughts on it?
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Two reasons:
1. This cam has somewhat of an aggressive lobe, which means that even though the .050" duration is somewhat high, the advertised duration is really not. This engine needs a specific window of overlap and if this cam were on a 108-110-112, it just wouldn't have enough. We are sitting at 76° of overlap as it is.
2. A tighter LSA has a decent bearing on the torque curve and a smaller engine needs help in this area.
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I'm very interested in what it will do to the torque curve. Do you think it will bring the peak HP and peak torque, closer together and will you vary the intake center, in your testing?
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Going with a set of C0’s that I found.
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Well, they don't look like much now, but they will.......
I like doing the before/after shots.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49289228832_4f55f2529a_z.jpg)
I'm doing a clean-up/organization this weekend and found a new set of 1.620", 7mm, titanium valves that I had. They are FE length as-is, but will trim the stems to allow for a lash cap since the tips aren't hardened.
I think my intake valves weigh like 85g and these exhaust valves weigh 60. Will allow me to run a lot less spring pressure.
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On the front cylinder head it looks like one of the guide bosses is cracked. I’m not sure what to call it but the 4th one down.
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Yep, no biggie, they will get bronze valve guides. All of that will be removed.
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At what rpm would a 352 be happy to idle at with a cam like this?
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1100-1200
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Chambers look like 289 chambers except for the dip between valves
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I like the 7mm ex, what are the intakes going to be?
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Block is bored/honed, line honed, and decked. Lot more prep work to do.
Looks a little different.
Before:
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After:
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49542459802_03e7d4caab_z.jpg)
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The only 352 FE in the world with titanium valves! Gotta love it. Only missing a high-zoot dry sump system I guess.
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Any details on the new stick? Juice or solid?
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Still plugging along....
I remembered that I had sold Wes Adams a 360 crankshaft that had been turned down/widened to BBC rod journals, so I asked him if he still had it. He did. I then asked if he wanted to sell it. He did. Long story short, it's here again. :)
I also bought some connecting rods.
Block work is completely finished.
Streetmaster intake is off to JDC to be ported.
New bumpstick is a custom solid roller. Similar specs to the flat tappet. Couldn't grind on a 104, so I went as tight as I could without having to have a special core made. It's on a 106.
Decided to go the cheap route and use the C0AE-D heads that I had. They are all cleaned up now and look absolutely beautiful. New 7mm bronze guides installed, spring seats milled flat, and valve job completed. These things are not performers as of right now and not sure they will be but I'm gonna be working on that. With a 2.125" 7mm intake valve and a 1.600" 7mm exhaust valve, with a 3-angle valve job and some seat blending, we're dealing with a blistering 240 cfm @ .700". The exhaust side (without a pipe) is 165 cfm at .700". It is what it is and if I can get them up to out of the box Edelbrock standards, I'll call it a day and aim for 500-525 hp.
Waiting on the cylinder head work to be finished before I order pistons.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49611686921_9d684cf1c8_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49639366301_bdcf51b995_z.jpg)
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So which cylinder heads will you choose, now that you've sold the C0AE-D heads?
Which connecting rods did you buy?
Still plugging along....
I remembered that I had sold Wes Adams a 360 crankshaft that had been turned down/widened to BBC rod journals, so I asked him if he still had it. He did. I then asked if he wanted to sell it. He did. Long story short, it's here again. :)
I also bought some connecting rods.
Block work is completely finished.
Streetmaster intake is off to JDC to be ported.
New bumpstick is a custom solid roller. Similar specs to the flat tappet. Couldn't grind on a 104, so I went as tight as I could without having to have a special core made. It's on a 106.
Decided to go the cheap route and use the C0AE-D heads that I had. They are all cleaned up now and look absolutely beautiful. New 7mm bronze guides installed, spring seats milled flat, and valve job completed. These things are not performers as of right now and not sure they will be but I'm gonna be working on that. With a 2.125" 7mm intake valve and a 1.600" 7mm exhaust valve, with a 3-angle valve job and some seat blending, we're dealing with a blistering 240 cfm @ .700". The exhaust side (without a pipe) is 165 cfm at .700". It is what it is and if I can get them up to out of the box Edelbrock standards, I'll call it a day and aim for 500-525 hp.
Waiting on the cylinder head work to be finished before I order pistons.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49611686921_9d684cf1c8_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49639366301_bdcf51b995_z.jpg)
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So which cylinder heads will you choose, now that you've sold the C0AE-D heads?
Which connecting rods did you buy?
Still plugging along....
I remembered that I had sold Wes Adams a 360 crankshaft that had been turned down/widened to BBC rod journals, so I asked him if he still had it. He did. I then asked if he wanted to sell it. He did. Long story short, it's here again. :)
I also bought some connecting rods.
Block work is completely finished.
Streetmaster intake is off to JDC to be ported.
New bumpstick is a custom solid roller. Similar specs to the flat tappet. Couldn't grind on a 104, so I went as tight as I could without having to have a special core made. It's on a 106.
Decided to go the cheap route and use the C0AE-D heads that I had. They are all cleaned up now and look absolutely beautiful. New 7mm bronze guides installed, spring seats milled flat, and valve job completed. These things are not performers as of right now and not sure they will be but I'm gonna be working on that. With a 2.125" 7mm intake valve and a 1.600" 7mm exhaust valve, with a 3-angle valve job and some seat blending, we're dealing with a blistering 240 cfm @ .700". The exhaust side (without a pipe) is 165 cfm at .700". It is what it is and if I can get them up to out of the box Edelbrock standards, I'll call it a day and aim for 500-525 hp.
Waiting on the cylinder head work to be finished before I order pistons.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49611686921_9d684cf1c8_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49639366301_bdcf51b995_z.jpg)
Trick Flow.
I bought a set of MGP aluminum rods.
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"I bought a set of MGP aluminum rods."
What length and how much do they weigh? I never see weights on aluminum rods, just curious... 600ish+_ grams or? Seem to hear about GRP and MGP the most for aluminum rods, any particular reason you picked MGP?
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Have Trick Flows become your “go to” head? And why?
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"I bought a set of MGP aluminum rods."
What length and how much do they weigh? I never see weights on aluminum rods, just curious... 600ish+_ grams or? Seem to hear about GRP and MGP the most for aluminum rods, any particular reason you picked MGP?
Thor, I can get MGP through Diamond pistons. These are 7.265" in length, with a BBC rod journal, and a .990" pin diameter. I haven't put them on a rod scale yet, but overall weight per rod is 696g, including both bolts, washers, and the dowel.
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Have Trick Flows become your “go to” head? And why?
I'm a big fan of them.
The small chamber has a very efficient chamber shape and is smaller than most "normal" FE heads, which lets me use a lighter piston because I get to take more volume out of the piston. Most of the chambers have came in right around 69.5-70cc. The heads flow as advertised on the flow bench, which means a lot to me. About 330 cfm with a 169-170 cc port volume. Great flow from a small port. Valve jobs on the seats are spot on, fit and finish is nice. They make excellent power as well....540 hp from a 6000 rpm 390 with a hydraulic roller, pump gas, Performer RPM...…..680 hp from a 465 with a solid flat tappet, etc.
The cons are that the flow on the intake side seems to back up at around .650" lift. The rocker stand pads are whopper jawed too. Not a fan of cutting stands down, but we make it work.
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Is the 360, a forged, truck crank?
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Is the 360, a forged, truck crank?
Cast. 361 would be a forged truck crank.
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"I bought a set of MGP aluminum rods."
What length and how much do they weigh? I never see weights on aluminum rods, just curious... 600ish+_ grams or? Seem to hear about GRP and MGP the most for aluminum rods, any particular reason you picked MGP?
Thor, I can get MGP through Diamond pistons. These are 7.265" in length, with a BBC rod journal, and a .990" pin diameter. I haven't put them on a rod scale yet, but overall weight per rod is 696g, including both bolts, washers, and the dowel.
I did some FEA 3D modeling for them when I was in college. I had access to some pretty cool software programs that would cost a company thousands to get their hands on for a private business. The owner was very cool. I was just a goofy college kid but he was plenty willing to listen to my opinions on what things worked well and what things didn't work so well. One of their experimental rods and main caps sits on my desk at work.
I saw a pro-stock rod when I was in their shop that I wasn't supposed to. This was 10 years ago now so I assume this trick is far outdated and I'm not letting any cat out of the bag, but, the beam of the rod was shaped like an oval or airfoil.
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"I bought a set of MGP aluminum rods."
What length and how much do they weigh? I never see weights on aluminum rods, just curious... 600ish+_ grams or? Seem to hear about GRP and MGP the most for aluminum rods, any particular reason you picked MGP?
Thor, I can get MGP through Diamond pistons. These are 7.265" in length, with a BBC rod journal, and a .990" pin diameter. I haven't put them on a rod scale yet, but overall weight per rod is 696g, including both bolts, washers, and the dowel.
I did some FEA 3D modeling for them when I was in college. I had access to some pretty cool software programs that would cost a company thousands to get their hands on for a private business. The owner was very cool. I was just a goofy college kid but he was plenty willing to listen to my opinions on what things worked well and what things didn't work so well. One of their experimental rods and main caps sits on my desk at work.
I saw a pro-stock rod when I was in their shop that I wasn't supposed to. This was 10 years ago now so I assume this trick is far outdated and I'm not letting any cat out of the bag, but, the beam of the rod was shaped like an oval or airfoil.
I'd say they're doing pretty well now, as Race Winning Brands bought them.
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Block is done.....she looks a lot different than she used to.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49666455766_4f25ecf446_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49666455771_782f499485_z.jpg)
Got some more Trick Flow bare heads on the way. Gonna mock one up with valves to make sure we don't have any clearance issues and then it will be on to the next step.
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This is going to be one unique engine. Very cool. And thanks for keeping us updated, I check frequently in hopes you have offered a new sneak peak.
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I wanted to mock up a head before I went any further to make sure the valves would clear on a 4.040" bore.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49674241521_ea97b2729e_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49673700438_b299664fc0_c.jpg)
Got plenty of room before the valves hit the cylinder. Valves may be a little shrouded but overall have a decent curtain. Sooner or later I need to poop or get off the pot, been moving the goal post for a bit.
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Ditching the solid roller, going hydraulic roller.
I need to make up my mind.
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A mind is a terrible thing to waste. ;)
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A mind is a terrible thing to waste. ;)
My mind has been wasted for years. I really can't tell the difference. :o
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I think after baseline test I would start from inside out.
Crank stays if it mics OK. New rod&main brgs.
Good rods.
Deal with cyl. walls as necessary.
Pistons to suit eventual heads.
End use cam&lifters.
New chain&sprockets
New oil pump&pickup.
Bolt on stock heads; new springs?
Test with stock intake&exhaust manifolds and ignition.
Test with end use intake&ignition, and headers.
Finally test with end use cyl. heads.
Seems like a logical progression if this is your concept.
Mike.
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Shot some paint on my FEPower 2-piece timing cover. Also received my adjustable timing set from Jay yesterday.
Ported Streetmaster from JDC came in as well. If Joe tells me it's ok, I'll post pics.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49704327103_92b1da66cb_c.jpg)
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It is OK, if you want to post pictures. Not too many trade secrets there for money to be made by someone. LOL. Joe-JDC
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49701396268_bbd91c02f0_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49701377093_81994d47b4_c.jpg)
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Brent ! You should of polished that cover ! Joe I see dimples....we did this on one of my 351C's ..
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I am doing the dimples on all my intakes, now. I became a firm believer after dyno testing with different manifolds, vs stock out of the box. I added the dimples, and had a stock intake to do a back to back test on the same engine, same day, within minutes of each other. Made several dyno pulls to establish repeatability, and changed intakes, no other changes, and three more pulls to establish repeatability. The dimpled intake increased the overall torque and overall horsepower figures a definite measurable amount. So, I now add them. Lots of work, but cheap torque and horsepower in the long run. Joe-JDC
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It is amassing to me that you fellows give out this kind of information for free , I know y'all have to have thousands of hours into finding these gains , what works , what doesn't . thank you
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Brent ! You should of polished that cover ! Joe I see dimples....we did this on one of my 351C's ..
I'm just not a polished fan. Chrome valve covers is about as far as I'll go.
I'm gonna try to make this one look like a box stock 1966 352 with PBF valve covers.
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I would have removed the Edelbrock logo, and logos at the rear of the intake if you had asked. Paint it blue and it will look nearly stock. Joe-JDC
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When did the Streetmaster first come out?
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Actually, wouldn't you want the flat top half-a-penthouse covers on a '66? My '65 352-4V has them, beige on a black block. Wouldn't the 66 be the same but in blue?
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The oil crisis hit the USA in 1973, and gasoline was nearly impossible to find in places. The price shot up and big engines were doomed at that time. The performance cars sat on used car lots for pennies on the dollar, and new cars were anemic at best. Edelbrock came out with a couple of stopgap intakes, such as the S2P2, and Streetmaster to try to get good mileage and torque. I believe the Streetmaster was introduced around 1974-5 time frame, but can't be sure my memory is correct. About the only performance intake was the Port O Sonic, and F-427 if you didn't have a Sidewinder, or TW. Times were bleak for a few years for the FE. PSE was a stop-gap, but expensive and hard to find. I believe there is a casting date on the early manifolds. Joe-JDC
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Brent just giving you a hard time for painting such a cool piece, if it isn't polished Ford blue is the way to go! Really enjoying the build - looking forward to hearing it run!
Joe, I bought my 68 fastback from a racer friend who wanted to go faster so he switched to a Fox body. His Dad was an engine builder and used dimples to achieve better torque and horsepower. He also stated that it helped prevent "fuel puddling" by keeping the air fuel mixture "broken up". Do you remember the Turtle inserts that Offenhauser made?? I always wondered if they would achieve the same effect in a big single plane..?? you could even dimple them..
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Joe, Was this dimples just made with a drill? What size, how deep?
I know in the 80s when i had Volvo B18-B20s Volvo competitions
Intake for a single standing Weber had "fins" in the bottom of the
plenum,Most others for the same carb had not. Volvos own intake
gave a noticeble difference on the butdyno ower the others
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I'm just really torn on how to make the engine look. I would like a stock appearing build, but I'm also dealing with aluminum heads and an aftermarket intake.
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Paint the heads and intake. If you want to get fancy, fill in or grind off any identifying or offending brand names. An untrained eye won't be able to tell the difference between stock and not stock.
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Slow going.
I'll be able to get a good jump on this one once the pistons show up.
I got a really nice PI intake from Joe Craine. If you're having trouble keeping up with my flakiness, I'm now using the factory C6AE-R heads. The heads are getting baked/tumbled right now, then they will get new valve guides and new valves. They will not be ported right now as I think I'd rather get a baseline then get the heads ported.
Joe has ported this intake, and if I remember the numbers correctly, has been worked/balanced to flow about 350 cfm.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49926128752_1126ef715e_c.jpg)
So for this iteration, we'll have a 4.040" x 3.500" combo, with 10.7:1 Diamond pistons, 1mm ring pack, factory C6AE-R heads, a hydraulic roller, and this PI intake.
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354 CFM average with smallish exit for stock C6AE-R/CJ heads. Hated to see that one go. Joe-JDC
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354 CFM average with smallish exit for stock C6AE-R/CJ heads. Hated to see that one go. Joe-JDC
Well we sure know you can make power with that intake Joe. The one you did for me was a monster on the Trick Flow heads. I predict the same for Brent's 352!
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I wanted to mock up a head before I went any further to make sure the valves would clear on a 4.040" bore.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49674241521_ea97b2729e_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49673700438_b299664fc0_c.jpg)
Got plenty of room before the valves hit the cylinder. Valves may be a little shrouded but overall have a decent curtain. Sooner or later I need to poop or get off the pot, been moving the goal post for a bit.
Brent, would you cut eyebrows into the top of the cylinder bore in this circumstance or do you see it as not beneficial in this type of build.
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You'd be fine without them and nothing hits anything else for a very long time. Not to say that the valve isn't shrouded some, but there's no interference.
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So for this iteration, we'll have a 4.040" x 3.500" combo, with 10.7:1 Diamond pistons, 1mm ring pack, factory C6AE-R heads, a hydraulic roller, and this PI intake.
So whatcha gonna put it in, bahhhhrent?
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After we play the Guess The Horsepower game, it will be offered for sale at a very attractive price. That's usually my weak point, but in this case I will forego the insatiable urge to purchase it only to give you, Mr. FElony, the opportunity of a lifetime to own this legendary 352 that you always wanted. Think of it as a delayed birthday present. You know, something you can't drink or smoke but makes you feel good the next day.
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I'm keeping this one.....
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...You know, something you can't drink or smoke but makes you feel good the next day.
Speaking of which, I got a text that my old t t bar just reopened yesterday. Now that's a birthday present. Unless they got rid of lap dances. That would suck. Or not, actually. I digress.
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I'm keeping this one.....
Here's my challenge: I don't think I've ever seen a '62-'63 S33 Mercury with an FE swap. Same as Fairlane, so a Crites kit should work. Think about it, then hop on it. Be unique.
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FEs were stock in '61-'63 Mercurys. My god father had one when I was in high school that I drove regularly.
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FEs were stock in '61-'63 Mercurys. My god father had one when I was in high school that I drove regularly.
https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars/1963/mercury/meteor/101116842
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S22s were much, much better looking.
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S22s were much, much better looking.
Those are Comets. IMO, not good looking pre-'64. To each his own. Not crazy about intermediate S-33's, either, but I'm try to get unique here. Waste of time, I know.
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New Diamond slugs showed up. Got 'em all weighed, measured so we can balance the crank. Trend tool steel pins.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49969806776_6625087fed_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49970069652_1f8860286f_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49970069677_c8a3487b05_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49969291898_45d97873e9_z.jpg)
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How heavy are those compared to OEM and how much compression are you shooting for?
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I don’t remember you talking about aluminum rods.
I’ll go back and scan.
Found it
MGPs
I’m interested because I’ve thought about this as I have a close friend that used to be a Child’s and Albert guy and we were yakking about aluminum rods in an FE.
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How heavy are those compared to OEM and how much compression are you shooting for?
These pistons weigh 416g with the dome. Not much compression, 11:1.
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I don’t remember you talking about aluminum rods.
I’ll go back and scan.
Found it
MGPs
I’m interested because I’ve thought about this as I have a close friend that used to be a Child’s and Albert guy and we were yakking about aluminum rods in an FE.
Haha, I've changed directions so many times I'm surprised that I can even remember what I'm doing with it.
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How heavy are those compared to OEM and how much compression are you shooting for?
These pistons weigh 416g with the dome. Not much compression, 11:1.
What I meant to say was how heavy were the oem pistons? I'm just curious.
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How heavy are those compared to OEM and how much compression are you shooting for?
These pistons weigh 416g with the dome. Not much compression, 11:1.
What I meant to say was how heavy were the oem pistons? I'm just curious.
I don't think I've ever had a factory 352 piston off the rod to weigh them, I usually toss them. My guess is probably 600-650g???? Somebody else may have a much better idea.
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Haha, I've changed directions so many times I'm surprised that I can even remember what I'm doing with it.
Well, you've certainly left the "junky junk" part of this build way behind. Far behind. Not just in the last zip code, but in the last time zone.
The only way to redeem yourself from this fiasco is to buy a Chevy bracket roller and make multiple appearances with the combo. It will set the General Mayhem crowd into looting and rioting mode. Oh wait.....
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Yeah, I'm thinking mid engine Cor... Cor... Corvair. Yeah, that's it.
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New Diamond slugs showed up. Got 'em all weighed, measured so we can balance the crank. Trend tool steel pins.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49969806776_6625087fed_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49970069652_1f8860286f_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49970069677_c8a3487b05_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49969291898_45d97873e9_z.jpg)
Oh, those are WAY too pretty to hide in an engine! Best to hang them on the wall and ogle them, I say!
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C'mon, Brent. You didn't think I'd keep you hangin', didja? https://sierravista.craigslist.org/pts/d/huachuca-city-1978-camaro-race-car-title/7116969330.html
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Perfect car for a screamin 352!
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I agree. Maybe we should all tip in for Brent :)
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I agree. Maybe we should all tip in for Brent :)
I'm all for some donations at this point.
The botched crankshaft grind put me in a bind. It was gonna cost me about $1500-1600 to find a 361 crank, ship it, have it ground, then ship it back.
At this point in time, I just want to move forward on the thing, so I'm having a 352 crankshaft ground .010"/.010", and I'm putting another set of pistons and rods in it.
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Alright. Don't even know if it's worth posting anything anymore, except for a written record of the method to my madness....
Snagged a cast 352 crank. To get things going quickly, I bought a set of Molnar FE rods and ordered some Racetec pistons. 1.900" compression height, flat top, 1mm/1mm/2mm ring pack.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50048412076_69acbb9c83_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50077250146_66070f2589_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50077250256_a4fcaf148a_z.jpg)
Switched cams again to a solid roller. Yeah, I know. Still gonna use my non-adjustable rockers to give them a workout.
Measured bearing clearances and since the crank is .020"/.020" with zero bearing choices, I had to send it to my crank guy to have the journals massaged.
Heads are done. These are the original heads that came off of Junky Junk. 2.080"/1.600", 5/16" stem stainless valves. PAC small diameter valve springs set up at 270/670, with Manley titanium retainers. Compression ratio will be right at 10.5:1.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50241022478_6252c51d3d_z.jpg)
Carb pieces are on their way back to me. I had Drew recolor and replate everything. Can't remember if I've posted this before, but I snagged a Holley 3 barrel, 1030 cfm.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50244616162_d04b3b341d_z.jpg)
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My prediction is that it's going to behave very differently compared to last time we had it on the pump :)
I think you should try the 500 2 barrel, it was winner that day!
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Any cam timing picked out yet?
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Man!
Those are some tall pistons! How much do they weigh?
Do you have flow numbers for the heads you're gonna use?
Is it going on the dyno soon?
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Man!
Those are some tall pistons! How much do they weigh?
Do you have flow numbers for the heads you're gonna use?
Is it going on the dyno soon?
Tommy, the weights are written on them, about 550g.
I do not have flow numbers, but based on what I've seen with these heads in the past, they're gonna go about 250cfm with the current prep. I wasn't too focused on making the heads work at this point as I plan to let Joe port them after the first dyno session. Should make a night and day difference.
It won't be too soon. Got too much other stuff that needs to get done before it. Hopefully this fall. I have everything I need, just need to make time.
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keep up the good work , thanks for sharing .
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Maybe it is just me... but I sure like the look of those Diamond pistons! As for the RaceTech or any other, do you see any downside to the 2 mm oil ring versus 3 mm or 3/16? I had a pretty smart guy tell me he didn't care for them, didn't explain why though...
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Maybe it is just me... but I sure like the look of those Diamond pistons! As for the RaceTech or any other, do you see any downside to the 2 mm oil ring versus 3 mm or 3/16? I had a pretty smart guy tell me he didn't care for them, didn't explain why though...
So far so good on the 2mm stuff. I run a lot of Mahle PowerPak series pistons in my 445's and they come with 1mm/2mm ring packs. The entire ring pack weighs less than 30g. As long as the hone job is good and the engine will seal up, I see no downside to using them. I haven't used anything thicker than a 3mm ring pack in forever and when the 2mm is available, I'll usually hop over to it.
The Diamond pistons with the aluminum rods was a very nice combination of parts. Maybe one day I'll get to try them, but because of the crankshaft fiasco, it is what it is. I just want the thing on the dyno and making noise.
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Keep it going! I am a big fan of project junk junk.
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Carb is almost finished.....
Drew did a good job on replating/recoloring the parts for me.
Converted everything to screw in bleeds and screw in IFR and PVCR.
Gotta put the needle/seat assemblies in and I'll be about done.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50285081523_f4c9a71596_z.jpg)
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I can see the light at the end of the tunnel....
Waiting on T&D to send parts for a high riser build and got the Thunderbird 390 torn down, so I turned to the 352 for a little bit.
Calico sent me my main bearings back so I got those in, crank has been touch ground to adjust clearances, and it's in. Stabbed a piston/rod in #1 and #5, then set about degreeing the camshaft and checking piston/valve clearances.
I have one of Jay's adjustable timing sets and his 2-piece timing cover, so my plan is to change cam timing on the dyno. I milled the poop out of the heads to get compression up and had to mill one head more than the other, so that meant that I spent about 2 hours yesterday changing cam timing, degreeing, checking piston/valve clearances on two cylinders/two heads, changing cam timing, degreeing, etc, etc. Finally got that done.
Got all the pistons/rods in, custom Racetec pistons, Molnar rods, and Mahle 1mm/2mm piston rings.
Timing cover is on permanently.
Melling M57B pump is in there with an ARP drive. Then bolted on one of my stock-appearing oil pans with the trap door oil control feature. I don't expect this to be any kind of replacement at all for a nice, deep sump race pan, but it's on there.
Waiting on Cometic head gaskets and my lifters to show up, then I can work on the top end.
Not too excited about the color of the valve covers and intake, so I'll have to think a little more on that. Otherwise, it's starting to look like an engine. Obviously the 3-bbl carb won't work with this intake manifold without a spacer or some plenum divider work, so I need to make up my mind on what I'm gonna do there too.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50307349548_1d0d2e0e42_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50308178662_16df31f791_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50307332133_384266ba22_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50307342883_ef44fbf98e_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50307342483_e8e8116591_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50307332083_8ae03e6dce_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50307332043_0043c6ef26_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50308347577_229561930f_z.jpg)
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Not too excited about the color of the valve covers and intake, so I'll have to think a little more on that.
Looks like crap. Maybe Chevy orange is more in keeping with that level of work. ;)
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Any thoughts on the valve covers? I'm not pleased with the finish/color, but don't really know what to do with them. LOL
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My dad took a set of those, and bead blasted them, and clear coated them. They actually looked pretty cool, because the aluminum just looked wet all the time.
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I vote for VHT black crinkle coat. Seems to work pretty well on engine parts.
https://www.autozone.com/paint-and-body/high-heat-paint/vht-black-wrinkle-plus-high-heat-paint-11oz/516837_0_0
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Bead blast then you can clear them or leave them alone.
garyv
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I just gave away a pair of chrome Powered by Ford valve covers. They would look really good on your engine, especially with that manifold. Joe-JDC
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I have a set of those, Joe.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50311508491_dd32d00ede_z.jpg)
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We both use a lot of those v/c, but sometimes there is a good reason for that
The PBF is pretty and easy to vent. I like the M/T too but that blue/alum/chrome look is real nice!
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Now, that picture makes that engine look like it belongs in a Fairlane or Mustang! Gets my vote. Joe-JDC
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Love that.
Classic
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Beings that is a 352 I'd vote for the mini pent roof valve covers. Just remember seeing more 352's with them then anything and gives it that mid 60's look.
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I just binge read this.....This thing has changed directions more times than Biden....
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Gotta agree, those MT covers just don’t look good. Would be cool to see them clear coated...
but, as much as I don’t like chrome valve covers, I prefer the PBF.
How bout a set of jays, custom CnC with Junk Junk on them?
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I just binge read this.....This thing has changed directions more times than Biden....
Dude, you must have been bored LOL
Yes, I've changed directions a million times......but finally got it narrowed down to what I want to achieve.
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I'm with Bill.
Black krinkle VHT with the fins and M/T sanded off.
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I just really like the M/T valve covers. They're old school and they make the engine look bigger LOL....enough room to swallow up any rocker arms, cast aluminum so they're rigid.
I bought a second set. I may have them black wrinkle powdercoated and the ribs/logo/pad sanded down. The second set I bought also have holes for breathers, so that will help me in some other ways.
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Brent I took a set of M/T's once and painted the same blue as the engine and then sanded down the ribs and logo. It's a little too much blue if the intake is blue, but looks great with an aluminum intake.