2 inch wide leaf springs for 66 Comet??

[manofmerc]

At one time calvert racing had a 2" wide spring they called it their super stock spring .I don't know if they still offer it though .On my 67 comet I run 9"x29.5"s They hook up fine for me I narrowed my rear 7/8" and have no inner wheel well .I have 3/8" tire to spring no lip at the outer wheel well and went through much trial and error with wheel spacers .Section width makes or breaks this job .And don't believe all specs from these tire manufactures .Good luck to you wide tires and comets are difficult to say the least.Doug

[machoneman]

"Section width makes or breaks this job .And don't believe all specs from these tire manufactures."

Truer words were never spoken! Yes, it's a crap shoot when things get real close as while the tread edge may fit well the section width's bulge at your selected tire pressure can really mess you up. Be careful here as noted since the section widths (as noted by the maker) varies a lot based upon wheel width AND tire pressure! BTDT!

[manofmerc]

My experience with section width is a painful one .Whenever I decided to go with these 29.5 x9s the section width was supposed to be 11.400 that is what they were advertised to be .Well it turned out they were 11.800 .After a week of hard frustrating work they fit sort off .Still tight at the inner wheel well and leaf spring also .The next set I bought were 11.600 .They went on with no drama or cursing .Famous last words of the tire manufacture .Don't worry they will fit just fine !My only concern is what will the next set be like .Doug

[66FAIRLANE]

I had 325/50 x 15’s under my 1967 Fairlane. Stock wheel houses. No mods to fender lips.

Got any pics of that?

[TomP]

On my 66 Caliente convertible I used 2" wide springs from my 64 Comet. The convertible won't allow for widening the wheel tubs because of where the top rams are but the springs gain space to make a 275 tire fit comfortably.

[Jim Comet]

Are you guys with Comet/Fairlanes that run in the 10's adding any reinforcements to the front leaf spring mount area? The inner goes through the subframe and should be fine but the outer is just a stamped piece of steel. Is this an area of concern on a 3500lb car running 10.70's?? Here is a picture of my 2 inch wide springs. These should allow me to run 29x9-1/2 slicks. Jim

[Falcon67]

I haven't done anything to mine.  I've been as quick as low 11s, but I have also put 1000s of rounds on the car in the last 15 years with the Calverts so a lot of potential wear and tear.  Car is up on the lift now getting a new fuel system, leaves, mounts and Cals look just fine.  Shock bodies are beat up from burnouts and such.  4.56 9" with a 4600 stall converter, so I hit the tail end hard every pass.  Having said that, it'd be easy enough to craft a 1/8" steel reinforcing plate to stiffen either the outside or inside with a shaved bushing.  Remember in a leaf spring, the front half is just a locator and the back half does all the work. 

[Rory428]

Many older cars used 2|" wide rear leaf springs, that is what my 59 2 door sedan has. I have a new set that I need to install in my 59, if you want, I can measure the center to center length, and amount of arc at the center bolt area.

[Jim Comet]

I think these will be ok. It sat a little bit low so I added another leaf to gain the needed tire clearance. I'll know shortly when I get them installed. I am just worried about the strength of the front spring eye support which is stamped steel.

[Jim Comet]

Here is the area I was wondering about.

[manofmerc]

Jim I have been racing my 67 comet for 10-12 years mostly run 6.90 in the eighth mile never any issues at that front spring mount .I have cal tracs and use their springs .Maybe you could do some additional welding or add some reinforcement .But mine have never looked suspicious .Let us know how the springs work .Maybe us comet guys will get some clearance for      our slicks one day .But I kinda doubt it ! Doug

[TomP]

On my 62 Ranchero the springs mount flimsier than that, they actually have a loose cupped washer that fits in a big hole (about 2" or so diameter) that holds the bushing in. The bracket is a similar stamping and it sure looks like the spring could try to bend that bracket forward and break it away from the rocker and framerail. I made some 14ga steel upright gussets welded to the front side of it. Two each side. Kind of like leaning posts to prop up a fence.

[TomP]

Also, in the leaf spring picture I see the Iso Clamp, what looks to be an aluminum wedge or shim and a big steel slug as well as that rusty flat washer.

 If it's what i'm thinking it's for, don't use those Iso Clamps, the hole in the rear end perch can be bushed with that washer or weld new spring pads on , the pads should be gusseted on the back anyways.

[Falcon67]

Here is the area I was wondering about.

I think mine is flimsier than that.  Will take a look and post a pic when I can.

[Jim Comet]

Tom, here is what I have been running. I used aluminum bar stock to replace the rubber. This worked pretty well as I my 60ft. times are in the 1.4's. I am looking for a way to eliminate the top hat/iso clamp, but I still need a way to locate the axle. This is made a little more difficult with the narrow springs because the spring bolt is now not centered and lined up with the openings in the rear axle perch. I may weld the 1 1/2 axle perch hole to match the 3/8 spring bolt head, but I still need a way to put my 4deg wedge in for my pinion angle. I am struggling on how to locate the axle to the spring bolt as the degree wedge is a little thicker than the spring bolt head. Maybe I need to get a taller spring bolt head? Does anyone have any idea's? Thanks, Jim