FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: MustangGT on May 30, 2012, 05:20:19 PM
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I just want to share my exitement ;D
I'm about ready to order my new engine.
I've asked for and received quotes from FE Specialities, Brent Lykins and Keith Craft.
I've also asked Barry R but unfortunatly he is very busy right now.
At this point I'm leaning towards a 496cid all alu engine with hydraulic roller lifters around 600 HP/TQ
Wish me luck! ;D
Regards
Morten
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Congrats. Sounds like a fun project. Do you have any build specs that you decided on?
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Yes, please share the specs if you have decided on them. Also, you might consider a solid roller rather than a hydraulic. That big engine would sound mighty fine at 7000 RPM, and a hydraulic roller will never get you there.
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Thanks guys.
My drag racing days are over so I doubt this engine will hit 7k rpm but I can see the point with solid rollers.
I was thinking hydraulic because of easy maintenance.
As I have said before, V8's are new to me so I'm not sure what to spec. I have to rely on the builders to put together something that will work for me.
This is the wish list I sent to them:
- New block, preferably aluminium.
- Aluminium heads, water pump and intake.
- Heads must be for unleaded fuel.
- At least 482cid (two of my friends have 505cid FE’s).
- Hydraulic roller cam/lifters.
- Good low/mid torque (purely street car at this point).
- 600+ TQ/HP.
- Excellent drivability on the street.
- Low maintenance.
- Long life/durability.
- Preferably 91 octane unleaded pump gas. Could go to 93 octane also but definatly not race fuel.
- Lopey idle is ok as long as it will not stop in stop and go traffic.
- Engine has to be turn-key including carb and ignition, broken in and dynoed
One quote looks like this:
An all Aluminum 482ci FE with a Pond Block, Scat Stroker Kit with H-Beam rods, Diamond Pistons, Canton Oil pan,pick-up and tray, Fully Ported Edelbrock Heads
Edelbrock Port Matched RPM Intake, T&D Roller Rocker Assemblies, Smith Push-rods, Quick Fuel Carb, Edelbrock aluminum water pump, McLeod flywheel and clutch and all other necessary parts to finish, turn key, dynoed, is $21,500.00
Another quote:
Pond aluminum block. That's pretty
complete, including carb, fuel pump, fuel line, PCV valve, breather, coil,
MSD distributor, plug wires, etc, etc. Might go for a Victor intake if I have the room for the extra height.
$18350
The last quote looks like this:
482 FE Pond Aluminum Street Crate
Horsepower: 600 hp
Torque: 615 ft/lbs
Block: Fully Machined Pond Aluminum Block
Crankshaft: Scat or Eagle Cast Steel
Stroke: 4.250" or 4.375"
Connecting Rods: Scat or Eagle I-Beam 6.700"
Pistons: Diamond Forged
Timing Chain: Ford Motorsport Double Roller
Camshaft: Comp Cams Custom Hydraulic Roller
Lifters: Hydraulic Roller
Cylinder Heads: Edelbrock Stage II CNC
Valves: SI 2.19/1.75
Rocker Arms: T&D Roller
Intake: Edelbrock Performer RPM Port Matched
Waterpump: Edelbrock Aluminum
Carburetor: Quick Fuel 780cfm
Valve Covers: Keith Craft Logo w/Breather
Wire Looms: Smoothie
Oil Pump: Melling High Volume
Oil Pan: Moroso Front Sump
Balancer: Pioneer SFI
Ignition: MSD Distributor w/Keith Craft Logo Moroso Plug Wires
Gaskets: Felpro
Fasteners: ARP
Compression: 10:1
Fuel: Premium Unleaded Only
Oil: 10w-30 or 15w-50 Joe Gibbs Hot Rod
Max RPM: 6200
Dyno: Full Test and Tune on SF902 Dyno
Price $17,599.00
Building time is from 6 to 10 weeks depending on which one I go for
Even though I've read Barrys and Jays books several times, I'm very unsure of what to choose.
Would it be a good idea to check out EFI, like the new MSD Atomic setup? I have good experience with converting to EFI on previous engines I've built but I don't feel too happy about beeing a guinea pig for MSD since this system is so new.
I think a carb would be ok now and then I can do a EFI conversion later if I want.
I need to figure out other stuff also like if my current stock 24" radiator would be enough and what exhaust too choose. FPA tri-y headers with Magnaflow 3" pipes/mufflers seems like the most feasable setup at this point.
I appreciate any and all input, since I'm a V8 greenhorn and all ;)
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Sounds Great!
No way you can get a Victor under the stock hood and run a aircleaner. Needs a hole, but nothing wrong with a hole in the hood.
With this kind of investment I would have a serious look at 2X4 induction.
The koolness factor can never be understated.
The Blue Thunder C7 lookalike or Dove Tunnel Wedge would be just the ticket.
While I'm spending your money.....lol
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OK, I will help spend your money also ;D
1. Shelby aluminum block, big bore (4.375") package, head studs
2. Stroker kit, 4.375" stroke forged crank, 6.700" H-beam rods, forged pistons 11.3:1 static CR (yields 526 cubes, bigger than those puny 505" engines your friends have!)
3. Blue Thunder medium riser heads, 2.19/1.75 valves, with minor porting, flow 360 cfm on the intake at .800" lift
4. Comp Cams hydraulic roller cam, lobe 3150 on the intake (307 advertised duration, 244 @ .050", 0.630" lift), 3170 lobe on the exhaust (315 advertised duration, 248@.050", 0.630" lift), 110 LSA, 106 ICL, yields 7.9:1 DCR.
5. T&D rocker assembly for the Blue Thunder heads
6. Edelbrock Victor Dominator intake, modified for EFI
7. Wilson Dominator EFI throttle body
8. Hooker 2 1/8" adjustable race headers, modified to improve ground clearance
9. FAST or Megasquirt EFI system
This setup would idle easily at 750 RPM, run on 91 or 93 octane fuel, make over 650 HP, and fit under the hood because the EFI throttle body is a couple inches lower than a carburetor. Should be able to fry the tires at any speed, and work well on the street, in traffic, and with an automatic (3000 stall converter) or a manual trans. Probably more expensive than the other options, though. Note - the cam is conservative. You could make an easy 700 HP with this setup if you used a slightly more aggressive cam, say 264@ .050" or something like that.
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Sounds Great!
No way you can get a Victor under the stock hood and run a aircleaner. Needs a hole, but nothing wrong with a hole in the hood.
With this kind of investment I would have a serious look at 2X4 induction.
The koolness factor can never be understated.
The Blue Thunder C7 lookalike or Dove Tunnel Wedge would be just the ticket.
While I'm spending your money.....lol
A hole in the hood is not out of the equation, but if I go that route, I need a new hood and a scoop to cover watever sticks out. No need to attract unecessary attention from the guys with the brain cooler blenders on their cars, hehe
I'd love to have a 2x4 setup but that will increase the build cost with how much?
I don't like carbs...and now you want me to add an additional one?? Geez, man, hehe.
I agree that it would've looked killer though ;D
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OK, I will help spend your money also ;D
1. Shelby aluminum block, big bore (4.375") package, head studs
2. Stroker kit, 4.375" stroke forged crank, 6.700" H-beam rods, forged pistons 11.3:1 static CR (yields 526 cubes, bigger than those puny 505" engines your friends have!)
3. Blue Thunder medium riser heads, 2.19/1.75 valves, with minor porting, flow 360 cfm on the intake at .800" lift
4. Comp Cams hydraulic roller cam, lobe 3150 on the intake (307 advertised duration, 244 @ .050", 0.630" lift), 3170 lobe on the exhaust (315 advertised duration, 248@.050", 0.630" lift), 110 LSA, 106 ICL, yields 7.9:1 DCR.
5. T&D rocker assembly for the Blue Thunder heads
6. Edelbrock Victor Dominator intake, modified for EFI
7. Wilson Dominator EFI throttle body
8. Hooker 2 1/8" adjustable race headers, modified to improve ground clearance
9. FAST or Megasquirt EFI system
This setup would idle easily at 750 RPM, run on 91 or 93 octane fuel, make over 650 HP, and fit under the hood because the EFI throttle body is a couple inches lower than a carburetor. Should be able to fry the tires at any speed, and work well on the street, in traffic, and with an automatic (3000 stall converter) or a manual trans. Probably more expensive than the other options, though. Note - the cam is conservative. You could make an easy 700 HP with this setup if you used a slightly more aggressive cam, say 264@ .050" or something like that.
Wow, you guys are experts in spending my money! Hehe.
This might be a good time to mention that I don't have unlimited funds....
But if you would build me an engine like this for under $20000, I'll place an order with you right now ;D
I'd love to see the faces of my friends if I told them I have a 700HP 526 cubes engine on the way to me, hehe.
It sure is tempting to go all the way but what approx would a beast like this set me back?
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Check your email... :)
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Check your email... :)
Thanks! I will! ;D
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OK, I will help spend your money also ;D
1. Shelby aluminum block, big bore (4.375") package, head studs
2. Stroker kit, 4.375" stroke forged crank, 6.700" H-beam rods, forged pistons 11.3:1 static CR (yields 526 cubes, bigger than those puny 505" engines your friends have!)
3. Blue Thunder medium riser heads, 2.19/1.75 valves, with minor porting, flow 360 cfm on the intake at .800" lift
4. Comp Cams hydraulic roller cam, lobe 3150 on the intake (307 advertised duration, 244 @ .050", 0.630" lift), 3170 lobe on the exhaust (315 advertised duration, 248@.050", 0.630" lift), 110 LSA, 106 ICL, yields 7.9:1 DCR.
5. T&D rocker assembly for the Blue Thunder heads
6. Edelbrock Victor Dominator intake, modified for EFI
7. Wilson Dominator EFI throttle body
8. Hooker 2 1/8" adjustable race headers, modified to improve ground clearance
9. FAST or Megasquirt EFI system
This setup would idle easily at 750 RPM, run on 91 or 93 octane fuel, make over 650 HP, and fit under the hood because the EFI throttle body is a couple inches lower than a carburetor. Should be able to fry the tires at any speed, and work well on the street, in traffic, and with an automatic (3000 stall converter) or a manual trans. Probably more expensive than the other options, though. Note - the cam is conservative. You could make an easy 700 HP with this setup if you used a slightly more aggressive cam, say 264@ .050" or something like that.
For some strange reason, Barry just sent me a very attractive quote on an engine just like this ;)
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the blue thunder m/r head will support 600 hp out of the box. buy the time you get the ED's to do that you will have more money in them and more timing in the ED headed motor. more timing is not good for the 91 octane gas. hope this helps you some
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Thanks chris_r
I'll talk to Barry about this.
Regards
Morten
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the blue thunder m/r head will support 600 hp out of the box. buy the time you get the ED's to do that you will have more money in them and more timing in the ED headed motor. more timing is not good for the 91 octane gas. hope this helps you some
If I've read Barry's book correctly, the exhaust ports on BT heads sits higher. This means the headers will sit higher also and will cause clearance problems to the shock towers in a Mustang.
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i have never used bt heads with stock shock towers on mustang so i dont know about that. i can tell you i have put bt heads on three mustang that i have build a 67,68,70 with aftermarket struts and notched towers and had no clearance problems a little tight on the floor of the cars but not a big problem to work around. hope this helps
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the blue thunder m/r head will support 600 hp out of the box. buy the time you get the ED's to do that you will have more money in them and more timing in the ED headed motor. more timing is not good for the 91 octane gas. hope this helps you some
If I've read Barry's book correctly, the exhaust ports on BT heads sits higher. This means the headers will sit higher also and will cause clearance problems to the shock towers in a Mustang.
I have the BT heads in my 69 Mach 1, and although they are tight the headers still fit. I used button head cap screws for the top bolts in the exhaust flange, and tightened them before dropping the engine all the way down on the mounts. I have also machined about 0.060" off the exhaust surface of the heads, and used no gasket, just high temp RTV, to seal the headers. These are Hooker adjustable race headers with the 2 1/8" tube, so they are probably the worst case. Bottom line - you can make them fit, and I wouldn't eliminate the BT heads from consideration because of this issue.
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Notching the shock towers is not an option. Mainly because I want to keep them stock but also because I could get into trouble at the bi-yearly inspection.
Barry assured me that the Edelbrocks will be fine with the CNC chambers and ports for my application.
I'm not looking for a high strung race engine. ;D
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It took a while but my new engine is finally finished ;D
Let the fun begin...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDTlp9vfQ0s
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Nice Engine you got there neighbour
I bet Biltillsynet going to love it ;D
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Thanks neighbour! 8)
Biltilsynet will probably throw a party for me and give me flowers, hehe.
You can say there is a reason for keeping the stock engine under the work bench....
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Yes we got the same problem in Sweden
but what i Heard they are worse in Norway
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I'm not sure how they are in Sweden. Here they can be a real pain but we've learned how to live with it, sorta.
We don't have much choice, right. Hehe
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Here's another clip
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y8rwxMBmHMY
Barry did a great job! ;D
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Nice! The all-aluminum finish on the engine looks really great...that and the dyno results ;D
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Sounds awesome Morten. You should consider Blair Patrick for a proposal also. It's hard to argue with his results.
http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=222.0
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Very nice!! Sounds like a nice street engine for sure.
Are those Survival heads stock? Did Barry do any port or bowl work on them?
With the Shelby block you should have a pretty strong set-up.
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Thanks guys! ;D
I am pretty excited now to receive this engine and get it into my Mustang.
I believe the heads are stock. I don't have the full spec yet but Barry might chip in with more info here if he want.
Initially he quoted me for fully CNC'ed Edelbrocks but we later decided to try his new heads instead.
From day one, this engine was meant to be a healthy street engine, no rpm monster, and with that in mind I think it turned out great! ;D
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That's a Very Kool Engine.
Your going to need some sticky rubber with that torque monster.
Not to mention making sure the axle is nailed down good and tight. :P
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That's a Very Kool Engine.
Your going to need some sticky rubber with that torque monster.
Not to mention making sure the axle is nailed down good and tight. :P
Thanks! ;D
I feel kinda sorry for the poor Cooper Bakelite 215/60 tires currently on the rear axle. At least they will leave this world smoking hot, hehe.
I definatly need to get wider rims and stickier rubber. There is not a whole lot available in 15" but someone told me that Nitto has some quite good ones. I need to check them out.
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I'd love to see the faces of my friends if I told them I have a 700HP 526 cubes engine on the way to me, hehe.
It sure is tempting to go all the way but what approx would a beast like this set me back?
Not nearly as cool as seeing what your friends have to say if you just paint the engine black, call it a 390 and take them for a ride.
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Not nearly as cool as seeing what your friends have to say if you just paint the engine black, call it a 390 and take them for a ride.
Hehe, that's an idea but I don't think I can't make myself paint it.