Broader C6 Oil Mods?

[Jackal]

Hello, I have a 1967 FGA B C6 at a reputable shop that has never rollerized one. Tomorrow, I am ordering a 500HP rebuild kit from Broader with w/e additional parts necessary to fully rollerize w/o machining, as well as a black-stripe modulator, R servo/cover, and E levers.

I think I'll go with the kevlar/carbon flex band vs. rigid band. Sticking with Select-Shift pattern auto with stage 2 or 3 shift kit probably. I am unsure on oil pan, but considering a zinc'd steel pan from TCI unless I need to go larger capacity for a street driven 63.5 Gal w/ 410/445. Planning on using my integrated oil cooler in my Champion radiator.

I see that about 6 years ago and earlier, Broader provided a detailed guide on how to perform various oil mods to complement their rebuild kit. They do not seem to offer this any longer. I am curious as to why this might be and if there is any other source for this information or at least general oiling mods that aren't proprietary to Broader. I don't mind paying for the info. Thanks!

[galaxiex]

Shift kit nomenclature.

In Trans-Go speak, a "stage 2" kit is for performance street/strip use.
The "Stage 3" kit is for Race car full manual shift, NO automatic up shifts,
tho some Stage 3 kits can be changed back to auto shifts.

I got a Summit cast aluminum deep pan "No Logo" for my C6.
Really nice pan. I'm very pleased with it.
It comes with a filter, and filter extension, to accommodate the deep pan.
Basically a stock Ford truck 4X4 filter and extension, as those trucks had a deep steel pan from factory.

The most common oiling system mod for the C6, is removing the cooler check ball and spring from the stator.
It is a MAJOR restriction to cooler flow and converter charge.
The only downside is possible overnight converter "drainback" and a delayed engagement on cold start/trans engagement.
Not an issue if you let it idle/warm up a bit before putting the trans into gear.

[thatdarncat]

The early ‘66-‘69 C6 transmissions used splash oiling for the one way clutch (sprag) in the rear of the case, failure of the one way clutch due to lack of lubrication is common. Ford realized this and in ‘69 came out with a kit to address the issue, and made the change at some point around that time for production, to pressure lubrication for the one way clutch. The Ford kit basically included a new one way clutch race with a pressure lubrication hole that sprays onto the one way clutch rollers, and instructions on where to drill a small hole in the back of the case that intersects the cooler return passage, and provides pressurized fluid. The Ford kit is long obsolete, but it doesn’t really matter, the new replacement one way clutch races come with the small oiling hole in them. Many C6 full roller kits, or roller #9 thrust washer kits come with a new slightly thinner race, since the roller thrust washer is thicker than the original flat #9 thrust washer, and the new race will also have the oiling hole. So the only thing you have to do is drill the hole in the rear of the case to provide the pressure lubrication. This should be done on any early C6, or checked to see if it was already done on a early C6 if it’s been previously rebuilt. Here are the Ford instructions and the provided template. You don’t really need the template, other than to get the idea where to drill. This is really easy to do, just be careful not to drill all the way through the rear of the oil passage & case!

[Jackal]

Thank You both!

[galaxiex]

Thank you @thatdarncat

I had forgot about the early C6's with the splash lube sprag.

Good call !

[Jackal]

Any valve body mods to be addressed?

[galaxiex]

Any valve body mods to be addressed?

Shift kit will take care of that.
I'd use the Trans-Go Stage 2 kit for performance use. 67-1&2 is their part number.
If not, then the Trans-Go SK-6 kit is good.

I would NOT use a B&M "shift kit". Very HARD shifts and the tranny won't last.

Closely inspect the Pressure Regulator boost valve sleeve for wear.
It doesn't come in the shift kit.
Sonnax has/had a replacement but I think it's discontinued.
Might find a vendor somewhere that still has stock.
Sonnax doesn't sell to the public.

1967 should have the "early type" boost valve and sleeve. Sometimes called the "clicker" type valve.
Sonnax part # 36941-01K

Later type is (obviously) different and I think, still available.
It does NOT retro-fit into the early valve body.

Edit;
Looks like Jegs has the boost valve.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Sonnax/852/36941-01K/10002/-1

Summit is out of stock.

[Jackal]

Thanks again. I had asked Broader about needing this part and they stated that I did not. I will hit him up about it again on the phone when they call back and get it coming if any question.

[Falcon67]

The oil mod is same/similar to what I do on performance C4s.  I drill both the #9 washer and the case to hit the rear return oil passage.  Pretty simple deal.

As for bands, etc - I'd use just what Broader recommends. 

[gt350hr]

      I too used the Summit no log cast aluminum pan. The kit is complete with everything you need and is very high quality. Works perfectly. Mine is a '78 with a wide ratio fully rollerized setup. R servo B lever Superior shift kit , CJ high drum and governor, Kevlar "strap" band that I built myself.

[Jackal]

Shift kit nomenclature.

In Trans-Go speak, a "stage 2" kit is for performance street/strip use.
The "Stage 3" kit is for Race car full manual shift, NO automatic up shifts,
tho some Stage 3 kits can be changed back to auto shifts.

I was making some assumptions based on some of Broader's product descriptions and the fact that his 750HP street C6 is available in stages 3-5.

"Stage 1 is a soft shift progressing to Stage 4. Stage 4 is a hard shift and is recommended for use with higher stall torque converters."

I'm beginning to question my decision to build one though since it's looking like I'll have more money tied up than if I had just ordered one from Broader for $1,900. It took a few years, $250, and more time than I'd like to admit cleaning up the donor.

[Jackal]

      I too used the Summit no log cast aluminum pan. The kit is complete with everything you need and is very high quality. Works perfectly. Mine is a '78 with a wide ratio fully rollerized setup. R servo B lever Superior shift kit , CJ high drum and governor, Kevlar "strap" band that I built myself.

Nice! Think I'll try this pan as well. Curious what dictates which levers to run with an R servo? Did you have to hunt down an OEM CJ governor or?

[galaxiex]

Shift kit nomenclature.

In Trans-Go speak, a "stage 2" kit is for performance street/strip use.
The "Stage 3" kit is for Race car full manual shift, NO automatic up shifts,
tho some Stage 3 kits can be changed back to auto shifts.

I was making some assumptions based on some of Broader's product descriptions and the fact that his 750HP street C6 is available in stages 3-5.

"Stage 1 is a soft shift progressing to Stage 4. Stage 4 is a hard shift and is recommended for use with higher stall torque converters."

I'm beginning to question my decision to build one though since it's looking like I'll have more money tied up than if I had just ordered one from Broader for $1,900. It took a few years, $250, and more time than I'd like to admit cleaning up the donor.

Ahh, I see, I'm not familiar with Broaders stuff, only know of him by reputation.

[galaxiex]

Thanks again. I had asked Broader about needing this part and they stated that I did not. I will hit him up about it again on the phone when they call back and get it coming if any question.

I work at a large driveline reman shop.
I'm just one of 14 builders there but I have been building transmissions for 45 years.

We "almost always" replace boost valves as it has become very common for them to be worn to the point of affecting trans operation.
In fact many other valves in valvebodys are worn as well, and require reaming and oversize valves.

It has pretty much become normal procedure if you want the trans to work properly and last past the warranty.

No diss on Broader, if he says you don't need it, but I'd be inspecting it very closely.

Sonnax website has a TON of information on vacuum testing for worn valves/valvebodys and other stuff.

Bit of a rabbit hole, but if you are interested in this stuff, it's actually fun to snoop around their site.

https://www.sonnax.com/vacuum_testing

C6 boost valve info...

https://www.sonnax.com/parts/2091-boost-valve-kit#needthisif

[galaxiex]

      I too used the Summit no log cast aluminum pan. The kit is complete with everything you need and is very high quality. Works perfectly. Mine is a '78 with a wide ratio fully rollerized setup. R servo B lever Superior shift kit , CJ high drum and governor, Kevlar "strap" band that I built myself.

Nice! Think I'll try this pan as well. Curious what dictates which levers to run with an R servo? Did you have to hunt down an OEM CJ governor or?

Here's a little chart I have posted other places...

C6 Servos and Apply Levers

O-Ring Type Servos

Code - Apply - Release
G        2.04     3.02
J         2.07     2.69
D        2.08     2.98
H        2.34     3.02
R        2.48     3.50

Molded Piston Type Servos

Code - Apply - Release
N        1.93     2.92
S        2.00     2.86
L        2.07     2.98
P        2.10     2.86

In Order from Softest to Firmest Apply

N        1.93     2.92 - Molded
S        2.00     2.86 - Molded
G        2.04     3.02 - O-Ring
J         2.07     2.69 - O-Ring
L         2.07     2.98 - Molded
D        2.08     2.98 - O-Ring
P         2.10     2.86 - Molded
H        2.34     3.02 - O-Ring
R        2.48     3.50 - O-Ring


SERVO LEVERS

A = 1.65:1
B = 1.73:1
D = 1.97:1
E = 1.85:1
H = 2.18:1
F = 2.30:1
FF = 2.82:1 (Sonnax, don’t use with H or R code servo, will break the case!)

A B D or E lever will be fine with the R servo.

BTW you can't use the R servo with an early case. the servo bore in the case is not machined to accept it.
Exception being the CJ C6 case starting in 1968.

All other "pedestrian" C6 cases from 1966 to 1971 will not accept the R servo without machining.

Here's the rub...

To machine an early case you need a special $$$ hollow cutter as the "tower" inside the servo bore gets in the way.

Here's a pic of an early case servo bore.
The step approx an inch down needs to be cut almost to the bottom to get the R servo in there.
It also needs a proper (smooth) surface finish as the R servo O-ring rides in that bore.