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FE Technical Forum / Re: Clutch recommendation - behind my 462
« on: September 21, 2023, 07:11:53 PM »
Thx. I'll check it out.
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FE Technical Forum / Clutch recommendation - behind my 462
« on: September 21, 2023, 05:12:14 PM »
So - been gone a while - been busy running my business & my engine & car have been running fine until this past weekend. I smoked my clutch.
My combo: 428 based stroker (462CI), trick flow heads, blue thunder dual riser, nice solid cam, FITech - all in a 69 R Code Mach 1. I've got a TKO 600 - Nascar Detroit Locker, 31 spline axles, & drag radials. I'd say I'm about 550 HP. Engine has lotsa torque.
I noticed this summer that - when warm - my clutch was slipping. I've been trying to baby it until winter but I lost it this weekend driving to/from a car show about an hour away. I've got a McLeod 600 Series - ceramic/ceramic. https://www.mcleodracing.com/600-series-disc-260671/p122
2nd clutch I've lost since I built this engine. I suspect the drag radials are too much & causing it to slip. Recommendations for a replacement? Twin disc perhaps? On facebook marketplace - this setup is for sale locally. Never heard of 10,000 RPM brand:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/845906140289494/?ref=messenger_share
Thoughts/recommendations? Not too worried about drivability as car is already a handfull.
My combo: 428 based stroker (462CI), trick flow heads, blue thunder dual riser, nice solid cam, FITech - all in a 69 R Code Mach 1. I've got a TKO 600 - Nascar Detroit Locker, 31 spline axles, & drag radials. I'd say I'm about 550 HP. Engine has lotsa torque.
I noticed this summer that - when warm - my clutch was slipping. I've been trying to baby it until winter but I lost it this weekend driving to/from a car show about an hour away. I've got a McLeod 600 Series - ceramic/ceramic. https://www.mcleodracing.com/600-series-disc-260671/p122
2nd clutch I've lost since I built this engine. I suspect the drag radials are too much & causing it to slip. Recommendations for a replacement? Twin disc perhaps? On facebook marketplace - this setup is for sale locally. Never heard of 10,000 RPM brand:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/845906140289494/?ref=messenger_share
Thoughts/recommendations? Not too worried about drivability as car is already a handfull.
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FE Technical Forum / Re: Lunchbox Lockers?
« on: February 14, 2019, 09:03:23 AM »
No experience with the lunchbox locker. I also have a "used" NASCAR locker. Works great on-the-street. Predicable ratcheting at low speed cruising/parking lots. I just make sure I'm pointed straight when I get-on-it. Love it when I cruise into a car show and someone yells "there is something wrong with your rear-end". I reply nope - that's a detroit locker. That shuts them up 
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FE Technical Forum / Re: copper exhaust manifold gaskets
« on: March 08, 2018, 05:20:02 PM »
I'm running them on my long tube headers. Work well - reusable - have had them on my car for over 10 years. Should work on your cast iron headers as well.
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FE Technical Forum / Re: Industrial 427 Blocks
« on: January 25, 2017, 08:38:39 AM »
The 428 in my Mach 1 is an industrial block out of Nebraska. Purchased it about 15 years ago for $350 - standard bore. Bored to .030 over and have been running it ever since. Great way to go IMO. Grab as many as you can.
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FE Technical Forum / Any nitrous experts?
« on: January 24, 2017, 07:08:08 PM »
So per earlier post: http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=4538.0
I'm installing a FITech EFI (Power Adder) system. I had nitrous with my 850 Demon running a bypass regulator behind the carb.
So here's my question - given a carburetor was running about 6 psi and the FITech is going to be regulated at 58 psi - should I now use a smaller fuel jet as I've got and extra 58 psi at the nitrous solenoid? I've sent a message to ZEX but they have not responded.
Let me know if I'm over thinking this.
I'm installing a FITech EFI (Power Adder) system. I had nitrous with my 850 Demon running a bypass regulator behind the carb.
So here's my question - given a carburetor was running about 6 psi and the FITech is going to be regulated at 58 psi - should I now use a smaller fuel jet as I've got and extra 58 psi at the nitrous solenoid? I've sent a message to ZEX but they have not responded.
Let me know if I'm over thinking this.
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FE Technical Forum / Re: O/T Fitech EFI (for FE)
« on: January 05, 2017, 08:42:09 PM »
I've already got an electric fuel pump with return line as I was running a bypass regulator on my carb'd setup. I should be able to plumb with the line's I've got and be on my way.
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FE Technical Forum / Thx Ross
« on: January 05, 2017, 08:22:06 AM »
I'm ready to buy a new distributor so for another $400 I'll get full timing control and the ability to program with a laptop.
If anyone on the forum is interested I can chronicle my install and post the results.
Werner Bartels
69 R code Mach 1
If anyone on the forum is interested I can chronicle my install and post the results.
Werner Bartels
69 R code Mach 1
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FE Technical Forum / O/T Fitech EFI (for FE)
« on: January 04, 2017, 09:47:23 PM »
So I've been contemplating upgrading to EFI for a few years. Last year I discovered Fitech EFI. I like this system for several reasons - price, nitrous control,
option for timing control, handheld controller, positive reviews, etc... I forced my decision to upgrade as I sold my Demon 850 to a buddy.
I've got nitrous so I'm intrigued by their nitrous control. Three of their units can manage power adders:
Go EFI 4 600 HP Power Adder http://fitechefi.com/products/30004/
Meanstreet EFI http://fitechefi.com/products/30008/
GO EFI 8 1200 HP Power Adder http://fitechefi.com/products/30012/
GO EFI 4 600 and Meanstreet EFI can retard timing when nitrous is activated. You still use your distributor for timing.
GO EFI 8 1200 can manage nitrous plus has the ability to "fully manage timing". To use this system I'll need to upgrade to a "magnetic" distributor - i.e. MSD Pro Billet.
Here's my question - is full timing control that valuable when running EFI? Engine is street/strip - not an all out race engine (about 550HP). My distributor is a very old Mallory Unilite with a Pertronix conversion. It's supposed to advance 24 degrees but the advance is only advancing 12 degrees so I've been considering replacing it anyway.
I can get the "Meanstreet EFI" for about $1,100. The "GO EFI 8 1200 Power Adder" is about $1,500 plus I'd have to purchase a $300 distributor to get timing control.
Anyone running this EFI or another EFI that manages nitrous?
Werner Bartels
69 R code Mach 1
option for timing control, handheld controller, positive reviews, etc... I forced my decision to upgrade as I sold my Demon 850 to a buddy.
I've got nitrous so I'm intrigued by their nitrous control. Three of their units can manage power adders:
Go EFI 4 600 HP Power Adder http://fitechefi.com/products/30004/
Meanstreet EFI http://fitechefi.com/products/30008/
GO EFI 8 1200 HP Power Adder http://fitechefi.com/products/30012/
GO EFI 4 600 and Meanstreet EFI can retard timing when nitrous is activated. You still use your distributor for timing.
GO EFI 8 1200 can manage nitrous plus has the ability to "fully manage timing". To use this system I'll need to upgrade to a "magnetic" distributor - i.e. MSD Pro Billet.
Here's my question - is full timing control that valuable when running EFI? Engine is street/strip - not an all out race engine (about 550HP). My distributor is a very old Mallory Unilite with a Pertronix conversion. It's supposed to advance 24 degrees but the advance is only advancing 12 degrees so I've been considering replacing it anyway.
I can get the "Meanstreet EFI" for about $1,100. The "GO EFI 8 1200 Power Adder" is about $1,500 plus I'd have to purchase a $300 distributor to get timing control.
Anyone running this EFI or another EFI that manages nitrous?
Werner Bartels
69 R code Mach 1
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FE Technical Forum / Re: Why aren't more people building SOHCs?
« on: October 02, 2014, 05:56:12 PM »
Cost for me as well. That being said - if I won the lottery a SOHC would be the 1st engine I'd build!!!
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Private Classifieds / 428 Rotating Assembly - .030 over (crank/rods/pistons)
« on: June 05, 2014, 10:40:03 PM »
I've got a 428 (balanced) rotating assembly - hope to sell complete but will consider selling separately if I get no offers on the assembly.
CRANK - 428 - CASTING - 1U - ADDITIONAL MARKINGS C RM010
- .010 main and rod journals
RODS - 428 - CASTING C7AE-B
- Resized and reconditioned with ARP bolts
PISTONS - TRW (SPEEDPRO FORGED) - PN: L2303NF
- RINGS: COMP: (2)1.98mm OIL: (1)4.76mm
- COMP DIST: 1.665"; PIN DIA: .9753"
- 10.2:1 COMP RATIO (my setup)
- RECESSED HEAD .120" DEEP (my setup)
If you have a .030 over block or have a standard block to bore, this will be a great foundation for a build or rebuild.
History: I had this assembly prep'd and balanced about 9 years ago - retains original 428 balance. About 5k miles on this setup - no track racing. Why am I selling - I am adding nitrous and want to upgrade to a rotating assembly that can withstand 700HP.
$1,200 plus shipping. Can send pics upon request. 1st offer 1st served via email as I don't get to the forum that often these days. Will close ad when sold. Thx.
werner@oasispools.com
Werner Bartels
69 R code Mach 1
CRANK - 428 - CASTING - 1U - ADDITIONAL MARKINGS C RM010
- .010 main and rod journals
RODS - 428 - CASTING C7AE-B
- Resized and reconditioned with ARP bolts
PISTONS - TRW (SPEEDPRO FORGED) - PN: L2303NF
- RINGS: COMP: (2)1.98mm OIL: (1)4.76mm
- COMP DIST: 1.665"; PIN DIA: .9753"
- 10.2:1 COMP RATIO (my setup)
- RECESSED HEAD .120" DEEP (my setup)
If you have a .030 over block or have a standard block to bore, this will be a great foundation for a build or rebuild.
History: I had this assembly prep'd and balanced about 9 years ago - retains original 428 balance. About 5k miles on this setup - no track racing. Why am I selling - I am adding nitrous and want to upgrade to a rotating assembly that can withstand 700HP.
$1,200 plus shipping. Can send pics upon request. 1st offer 1st served via email as I don't get to the forum that often these days. Will close ad when sold. Thx.
werner@oasispools.com
Werner Bartels
69 R code Mach 1
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FE Technical Forum / Re: Tying into the oiling system of the FE
« on: April 22, 2014, 06:54:41 AM »
Try Precision Oil Pumps - they have several FE oil pumps to choose from.
http://stores.precisionoilpumps.com/
Regarding where to pull oil for the turbos - install a "sandwich adapter" like you'd use to plumb an external oil cooler. You could feed the turbos and return the oil with another line to the pan.
Just a thought.
http://stores.precisionoilpumps.com/
Regarding where to pull oil for the turbos - install a "sandwich adapter" like you'd use to plumb an external oil cooler. You could feed the turbos and return the oil with another line to the pan.
Just a thought.
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FE Technical Forum / Re: Rear Main Oil Seal Leak
« on: February 23, 2014, 08:02:30 AM »
I did some google searches and didn't see anything. I've got a pesky leak - novel idea you've got there. I'd say as long as you're not taking the car to the track build your metal diaper and see how it works!!!
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FE Technical Forum / Re: Motor cutting out every now and again
« on: December 15, 2013, 08:08:28 AM »
This happened to me this summer - intermittent cutting out. I have an electric fuel pump with return line. Suspected clogged filter. Initially would only occur when the fuel was < 1/4 tank then got progressively worse. I removed the fuel filter, checked it and found it was fine. Guess what - had loose AN fittings connecting to the fuel pickup and fuel pump. Guess when the fittings warmed up they expanded enough to "suck air".
Once I tightened the fittings the issue went away. Drove the car over 1,400 miles on HotRod Power Tour without incident.
Once I tightened the fittings the issue went away. Drove the car over 1,400 miles on HotRod Power Tour without incident.
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FE Technical Forum / Paul
« on: December 12, 2013, 03:06:14 PM »
Paulie,
There is always more to the story than can be easily articulated in a post. I've got a 428 industrial block with original cast crank, old rods, new TRW pistons. I installed nitrous but have been reluctant to "hit it" due to the age of my reciprocating assembly. I figured I'd stroke the engine to improve the foundation with more robust parts then build on that package. This will also include my torque/HP through the normal operating range of a street engine. I don't have $$$s to build a bad ass engine so I'll build it in "increments". Ultimately I'd like to buy some of Barry's heads or the Blue Thunder heads, have them ported and stuffed with big valves. Add a good roller cam and I've maximized my 428 based combo.
I figure that I can sell the crank, rods, and pistons to someone that wants to build a low-budget 428. BTW - I've been priced this stroker kit for well less than $2k.
There is always more to the story than can be easily articulated in a post. I've got a 428 industrial block with original cast crank, old rods, new TRW pistons. I installed nitrous but have been reluctant to "hit it" due to the age of my reciprocating assembly. I figured I'd stroke the engine to improve the foundation with more robust parts then build on that package. This will also include my torque/HP through the normal operating range of a street engine. I don't have $$$s to build a bad ass engine so I'll build it in "increments". Ultimately I'd like to buy some of Barry's heads or the Blue Thunder heads, have them ported and stuffed with big valves. Add a good roller cam and I've maximized my 428 based combo.
I figure that I can sell the crank, rods, and pistons to someone that wants to build a low-budget 428. BTW - I've been priced this stroker kit for well less than $2k.
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