I assume you will be re-using the hydraulic roller lifters? If so, I would proceed as follows:
- Turn the engine to top dead center on the firing stroke for #1.
- Mark the distributor housing and the intake manifold where they line up, so that you can re-assemble them in the same position. Also mark the direction of the rotor, where it is pointing, on the intake.
- Remove distributor cap and wires, distributor clamp, and pull the distributor out.
- Remove valve covers, rocker arm shafts and rocker arms, and pushrods.
- Drain the water from the engine. Probably a good idea to pull the block plugs so you get it all out, but that is not absolutely required
- Unbolt and remove the carb and intake manifold.
- Pull all the lifters out of their bores, and leave them in the valley, next to the lifter bores that they go into.
- Unbolt and remove the alternator and power steering pump (if they are still on the engine).
- Unbolt and remove the fan and water pump
- Remove the pulley bolted to the harmonic balancer.
- Remove the large bolt in the end of the crank. Use an impact to remove it if you have one, to try to keep the engine at top dead center. If it moves, you can move it back by putting a couple of flywheel bolts in the back of the crank and using a long screwdriver as a lever to turn it.
- Use a harmonic balancer puller, if necessary, to remove the harmonic balancer off the end of the crank. Also remove the key, if it is stuck in the crank.
- Pull the harmonic balancer spacer off the crank. If it is stuck on there, put a 2" muffler clamp around the spacer and pull it off with a puller.
- Remove the four front bolts from the oil pan, and the 8 bolts from the front of the timing cover, and remove the timing cover. If the engine uses a mechanical fuel pump, pull that off first.
- Remove the bolt in the cam and pull the top timing gear off. Depending on how tight the chain is, you may have to pull the crank gear forward a little to get the top gear off. Always a good idea to replace the timing chain at this point too. If, heaven forbid, you have one of those nylon gear timing sets, replace the whole set. Note the position of the pin in the cam; the new cam has to go in with the pin in the same spot.
- Screw a long (6"+) 3/8" bolt into the cam, and using the bolt slowly pull the cam straight out. It will drop a little between journals, so just gently try to center it at each point and keep pulling it out.
Assembly is in reverse of this process. Make sure the cam is lubed up before installed, that the pin is in the same position as it was in the old cam when you re-install the timing gears, and that you clean up all the gasket surfaces before you start re-assembly. Check the valve lash (contact + 3/4 turn on the adjusters) before installing the valve covers, but after installing the distributor (so you can turn the engine to check lash on each cylinder, without messing up your distributor timing). On startup, time the engine right away. No high RPM break-in is required with a roller cam.
I'm sure I've missed something; perhaps others will chime in.
