64 Comet, 427, Mustang ii front end, alignment specs.

[Dan859]

Hi Everybody,
I'm taking my car in for alignment on Tuesday.  It's a 64 Comet, 427 FE, with a Mustang ii front end.  I put new tires on it last year and had the alignment checked.  The tires are both starting to feather on the out side edges.  I've got maybe 1000 miles on the car since the new tires were installed.  What should I be looking for as specs for the alignment?  Should I go with Mustang ii specs, go with the Comet OEM specs, or do something different?  Any suggestions would be welcome.
Take care,
Dan

[machoneman]

OpenTracker says:

STREET SPECS *
Caster:+1.5° to +2.5° Manual Steer
+2.0° to +3.5° Power Steer
Camber:0 to -.5°
Toe:1/8″ in
STREET PERFORMANCE SPECS *
Caster:+1.5° to +2.5° Manual Steer
+2.0° to +3.5° Power Steer
Camber:-.5° to -1.5°
Toe:1/8″ in
* Caster and camber setting must be the same on both sides for proper handling

Daze says; These specifications are in order of importance.
1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.
2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.
3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.
4. 1/16" to 1/8” toe in

David Suesz, with thanks to Jeff Burgy says;
http://mustangbarn.com/assets/arning...nsion-drop.pdf
This one seems way off compared to the others.

And my old template references the SAAC for 64.5-70 stangs;
Caster +2*, Camber 0-.5* negative, Toe-in 1/8"

[6667fan]

If it is not a dedicated track car a lot of positive caster can cause interference with tire at the leading edge against the fender. If the car only goes on and off the trailer probably no problem. On the street if you have a situation where you are turning and changing grades, ( like coming out of a pitched driveway), you might find the interference. More positive caster , absolutely good yes, up to a point.

[RustyCrankshaft]

I'd also add that it's somewhat dependent on what exactly you have. Is it actually MII suspension, a hot rod shop clone of a MII or someone's stuff based off MII architecture? The reason this makes a difference is that actual MII stuff vs something like a TCI or Heidts set up has enough geometry differences to matter when doing the alignment. Although what's already been said is a good baseline.

This is what I start with a lot of times with MII based suspensions and tailor to the car from here:
Alignment specifications
Caster: Power rack 4-6 degrees positive
 Manual rack 2-4 degrees positive
Camber: 0 Degree
Toe-in: 1/32 to 1/16 inch

[Dan859]

Thanks everyone for your input!  The car is 99% street driven, so I'll use those specs. 
Take care,
Dan

[TomP]

I would go for more caster. Not sure that spec sheet is for M2 suspension, sounds like it's for the stock suspension which is hard to even get 3 degrees. I've run 10 to 15 degrees with manual steering and the difference in feel of the road is pretty noticable.

 Easy way to test if you've got enough caster,  let go of the wheel while making a turn. If it doesn't straighten up quickly it isn't enough caster. With zero caster (which is within the stock Falcon/Comet/Mustang/Fairlane alignment specs) you'd keep going around in circles

[e philpott]

for a cruiser or drag car I try to get as much positive Caster you can get with making the wheel sit funny in the wheel well . with MII style you can only add so much positive Caster before effects the Camber setting but run as much as you can , if it's a tight road course car then you want negative Camber but everyone else needs more positive Caster and it should vary less than a .5 degree per side