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Messages - Dan859

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181
FE Technical Forum / Re: oil pans
« on: November 30, 2015, 10:10:09 AM »
Falconnewcomer, could you post that picture here?  I tried the link and it doesn't work, maybe because I don't have a Facebook account.  I've got the same pan on my 64 Comet/MII front end.  Thanks, Dan

182
FE Technical Forum / Re: Blair Patrick 482 rebuild, 647 HP
« on: October 12, 2015, 01:34:41 PM »
Blair, thanks for forwarding those pics so they could be posted.  I imagine having 2 quarts of oil trapped like that wasn't a great help in the overall scheme of things.  Of course, the fact that the original builder put in a used distributor that had the end cut off and ground to fit probably didn't help.  Especially when the hex socket in the end of the shaft cracked at each corner and allowed the distributor shaft to spin on the oil pump shaft instead of actually turning the oil pump.  That probably didn't help much, either.  Live and learn, I guess.

183
FE Technical Forum / Re: Blair Patrick 482 rebuild, 647 HP
« on: October 11, 2015, 08:56:56 AM »
Here's the second dyno sheet.

184
FE Technical Forum / Blair Patrick 482 rebuild, 647 HP
« on: October 11, 2015, 08:54:03 AM »
Hi Everyone,
Last fall, I posted here regarding the engine for my 64 Comet, and got quite a bit of good advice regarding a possible rebuild.  At the time, the engine was a Genesis block, offset ground 428 crank with 4.10 stroke, Dove hi-riser heads and Dove tunnel wedge dual quad intake.  It dynoed at 532 HP and 506 ft-lbs, but wasn't street friendly at lower RPMs.  Thanks again to everyone for the comments and advice.  The engine had developed an internal ticking noise, so I figured there was some sort of serious internal problem.  I pulled the engine and put the car up for the winter.  After discussions with several forum members, I decided to have the engine rebuild by Blair Patrick.
He and I spent a great deal of time talking about my goals and what I wanted out of the engine.  He was quite patient with me and answered all my questions, even the stupid ones :).  He never tried to push me in any particular direction; he would lay out various options, explain them to me, and we'd come to a decision.  I can't say enough about how pleasant it was to work with him.  He's not only extremely knowledgeable, he's easy to talk to and a real good guy.
When we had the details worked out, I loaded up the engine and took it down to him.  I spent a few days there while he tore the engine down, and found the ticking noise was a bad rod bearing.  Glad I stopped driving it when I did!
We had set the goals as a 482 CID, dual quad engine that would make 600HP and be street friendly at lower speeds/RPMs.  The specs on the build are as follows:

Block:
   -Genesis block prepped as follows:
     -Pro-Gram billet main caps
    -Deck water holes corrected
    -Lifter valley webbing machined for proper drain back.
    -Align honed, square decked, plate honed
    -Canton pan & screen windage tray
Reciprocating assembly:
    -Forged 4.250 Scat crank
    -Scat 6.700 rods w/bolt upgrade
    -Custom CP pistons 4.255 bore, reverse dome 
    -Total Seal custom rings
    - 10.5:1 static compression ratio
Camshaft:
    -Bullet custom grind billet hydraulic roller cam
    -Advertised duration, 300/311
    -Duration at .050, 243/252
    -Lobe lift, .3325, .3325
    -Gross valve lift, .585, .585
    -Morel hydraulic roller lifters
Heads:
      -BBM heads, light porting
      -BP spec Ferrea valves
      -BP valve job
      -Beehive springs
      -Smith Bros pushrods
      -Bushed, non-adj rockers, HD shafts, studs, billet stands/end supports
Intake:
   -Dove, tunnel wedge, light internal mods, portmatched
Carbs:
   -Twin, Holley 600 carbs

After he finished the build, Blair held onto the engine a bit for me, as I work overseas and wouldn't be back to the States until September.  He had it dynoed just before I got back.  It made 647HP at 6000 RPM, with 631 ft-lb of torque at 4800 RPM.  I've got the engine back in the car now, and to say I'm happy would be an understatement!  Blair hit it out of the ballpark!!  If you compare the engine specs to my earlier post regarding the engine, this one has the same compression ratio, same camshaft, same carburetors, same ignition and a very similar intake (med riser vs. high riser).  Basically, it's about 30 CID bigger with BBM heads, yet I picked up over 100 HP and 100 ft-lbs.  Driving it on the street is like night and day.  I can cruise around town in 3rd gear at 2000 RPM with no issues.  When I hit the throttle, there's no bog or hesitation, the car just goes!  It's everything I wanted it to be and more.  Blair, Thank You!!!
I'll attach the dyno sheets as a reply, as I can't seem to get them to attach here.     
 

 
   

185
Member Projects / Re: 68 Mustang Memorial Day Weekend Thrash
« on: May 24, 2015, 03:38:25 PM »
Quote
Dan, are you saying to turn down the splined portion of the shaft?  Or are you saying just to cut the pilot shaft off shorter?

In my case the problem is that the splined portion of the shaft hits the pilot bearing about 3/8" before the face of the transmission contacts the bellhousing.  MustangGT suggested a Lakewood spacer in his post; these are 1/4" thick, so I could go with two of those to get the clearances right.  I could also machine one myself, but I don't know the precise location of all the holes, so it would be better (and easier) to just get two of the Lakewood spacers.

Jay, my input shaft was too long.  The first thing I did was have an aluminum 3/8" spacer made, using the bellhousing as a template.  A local machine shop cut the spacer with one of those water jets and it came out pretty good.  The spacer went between the the bellhousing and the transmission.  That seemed to work OK, but I was concerned that the spacer would make the clutch ride 3/8" further up the input shaft.  When I went online, I found the answer on Richmond's web site.  Their 5 speed transmissions also have a long input shaft, and on the site it says that the shaft needs to be shortened to use on FE's and provides the dimensions the shaft needs to be.  I called their tech line, and the tech confirmed the length difference.  I took the dimensions and the web site info to a machinist who does a lot of work for local drag racers and guys running at Watkins Glen.  I've had the shaft modified, but I'm working overseas right now and won't be able to put it back together until I come home in the summer.  The engine is also out of the car, so I'll mock them both up together beforehand to make sure everything is right.  Hope this clears it up a bit.
Dan

186
Member Projects / Re: 68 Mustang Memorial Day Weekend Thrash
« on: May 23, 2015, 10:59:24 PM »
Hi Jay,
Very cool project, hope I can help some.  I put a TKO 600 behind my Genesis 427 with a quicktime bellhousing and I ran into a similar problem.  The TKO shaft is like 1/4 inch longer than the shaft for the topcover transmission.  I went online, found the correct length for the input shaft and had it turned down to the correct length.  You might also be able to just make an adapter plate to fit between the tranny and bellhousing.  Good luck!
Dan

187
I know for a ballistic vest, the kevlar fibers are incredibly tough.  In a previous life I was an LEO and was the senior range officer for several years.  We did a lot of testing on vests, and they were much stronger than you would first think.  The guy who developed one of the first commercial brands of vests used to demonstrate his vest by putting it on, then shooting himself at point blank range with a .357 magnum.  Having said that, at this point I'll turn it over to the engineers to discuss the strength characteristics of composite materials :-) 

188
Member Projects / Re: 406 build for my 63 Galaxie
« on: February 22, 2015, 05:50:29 AM »
Really nice car!  What rims are those?

189
FE Technical Forum / Follow up, 427 stroker build
« on: October 21, 2014, 02:31:09 PM »
Hi everyone,
First, I'd like to thank all those who responded to my post on the 427 stroker build.  Thank you!  There were a lot of interesting and informative points made and I appreciate everybody's time. 
I've thought about it and at this point my plan is to install a stroker kit, new cam, new heads/intake, and sell the HR pieces to help finance the new parts.  My goals are to have 600HP, a hydraulic roller cam, either a dual quad carb setup, or possibly an 8 stack EFI system (if I have the money after building the engine!), and have a street friendly setup.  Any advice to help refine this further would be appreciated, and I have a few questions. 

First, for a stroker kit, what are the pros and cons of a 4.250 vs. a 4.375 kit?
Second, for the heads, I'm looking at either a set of Survival or BBM heads.  Based on what I've read so far, both seem like they would be a good choice, I think it depends on price and availability.  What should I be looking for in regard to valve sizes, porting, and port matching?
For the intake, my choices seem to be a dual plane such as the BT, or a tunnel wedge such as the Dove/BBM, or possibly a stack style EFI.  I'm on the waiting list for Jay's intake adapter, so I'm thinking of using that, as there are both dual quad and EFI units available for it.  If I go with the dual quad, I'm thinking I should simply give the engine particulars to Quick Fuel and go with what they suggest.
For the camshaft, I know that depends somewhat on which stoker kit I choose, but what would be a good profile for either choice?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Dan
 

 

190
FE Technical Forum / 427 stroker build
« on: October 17, 2014, 01:30:09 PM »
Hi everyone,
I have a 64 Comet Caliente set up as something like an A/FX.  It has a Mustang II front end, a 457 CID engine (Genesis 427 with 428 crank), TKO transmission, and a MW rear end with 3.91 gears.  The engine specs are:

427 Genesis block
428 crank, offset ground to 4.00 stroke, with 400 Cleveland rods
Venolia forged 10.5 C.R. pistons
Bullet hyd. roller cam and lifters, adv 305/310 duration, 243/254 @ .050, .585 lift
Dove HR heads
Dove HR tunnel wedge intake
Dove HD roller rocker assembly
Holley twin 80457 carbs, 600 cfm each
MSD ignition, 36 total advance, in by 3000 RPM

I had the engine dynoed, it showed 532 HP @ 6000 RPM, and 506 lb ft @ 4500 RPM, with a redline of 6000 RPM.  Since I had the engine built, I've since read that the 400 Cleveland rods aren't really a good idea, so that concerns me.  I also had hoped for 600 HP out of the engine, which I didn't get.  Another issue is that the engine isn't real street friendly at low RPMs.  It runs rough and there's a lot of reversion back into the carbs. 
I should add that this is my first foray into an engine like this.  I've had a 68 Fairlane 390 and a couple 70 429CJ Torinos, but nothing like this.  My goals are to have a street friendly car that develops 600 HP with a 6000-6500 RPM redline.  I want to stick with a hydraulic roller cam because I have to remove the brake master cylinder and vacuum booster in order to remove the valve cover to adjust the valves.
 
My thought at this point is that I should just bite the bullet and rebuild the engine as follows:
Scat 4.25 stroker kit, which will give me 482 CID, keeping about 10.5 CR.
Survival or BBM heads, just a basic cleanup and port matching, with an aftermarket roller valve train.
Dual quad intake, either a BT med riser dual plane, or a Dove MR tunnel wedge, with dual Holley carbs.
Hyd roller cam, with less duration and higher lift than the current cam.

Any thoughts, comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  I'm especially interested in camshaft profile and intake/carb recommendations.
Thanks,
Dan


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