Howdy all.
Stupid question, should the FE engine mount perches be welded in level or at a 3 degree angle?
I'm currently working on my 64, Pro Street build. I have fabricated my own engine perches  and I am in the process of welding them in. I will be running a 427 with a dual quad tunnel wedge intake. I have the block, engine mounts, scatter shield and 4 speed toploader mocked up. My dilemma I have a six and a half inch drop from the end of my tail shaft to center of the differential. I have a four link suspension also. How big of a problem is it going to be with that much drop from the tail shaft to the differential?
The engine is sitting up higher so we can clear the Mustang 2 front end. Thank you in advance! See you all in September!
Red

As Wayne mentioned, the Washing Soda and battery charger works wonders. I had a 427 block hot tanked a while back , but still gave the block the electrolysis treatment because the hot tanking doesn't get the rust off all the time. Sorry for your trouble Doug, it is aggravating for sure.
If you ever need a good recipe for setting up a tank to do the electrolysis let me know.
Red

Can't wait for this year after missing last year.  We're bound to have one of those 70 - 75 degree weekends one of these years.
Good weather or bad, it's just great to be there and see everyone.

Blair, I think you can see the bottom of the OE alignment plate in the pic here. When the engine was built 5 years ago, I was using a scatter shield with the alignment plate that it came with. My car was being re-painted at a very reputable local shop (V8 Speed and Resto) and one day they started the car up and the pinion gear actually fell out of the starter. They thought it might be an alignment problem and suggested using a OE bell housing. So I put on a 67 bell housing and still have the same problem...

I thought I would post this reply from Robb McMackin for future reference ....

If you purchased the only five years ago, the nose (i.e. the adapter/mounting block with three "ears) should already have the counterbore required to use the pinion support cone (i.e. nose cone). To be certain, remove the four allen head screws and look inside the nose to see if it has a 2-3/8" diameter by 1/16" deep counterbore. If so, you can install the nose cone with no machining to the nose required.

Make sure you are running a thin factory starter locating/block plate. From the photos, it appears that you may have excess backlash. The starter plate is what locates the starter radially to ensure proper backlash. Here are examples of the plate:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-FE-332-352-390-406-428-427-BLOCK-PLATE/273248022722?hash=item3f9ed9f0c2:g:ptQAAOSwQcJaCd4H
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-FE-360-390-427-428-CJ-SCJ-Mustang-Shelby-Cougar-Mustang-Comet-Block-Plate/332654604362?hash=item4d73c2704a:g:YMgAAOSwFAZTuiL0

Aftermarket scattershields often come with a thicker version of this plate. However, the hole for the starter is often oversize and/or not located accurately. So, use the thin factory plate even if you are also using the thick scattershield plate.

I will certainly sell you a new gear and/or nose cone if you want but we recommend that you ship the starter back to us. We will examine it for further damage, load test it and install a new gear and cone. If we ship you a new gear, it may be too loose or too tight on the splines of the shaft (we select fit the gears to the shaft splines)

Red, the new bracket that comes with the Caltracs has to pivot, so you can't just weld it in place.  On my Galaxie I moved the rear leaf springs inboard for tire clearance so my setup is not going to be like yours.  If I were you, I think I'd cut the bottom of the leaf spring bracket away and then weld a reinforcement piece in over the top or front side, and then just leave the bottom open.  I basically did that on my car (although I cut the frame to move the spring inboard too), and it hasn't given me any trouble.
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Thanks for the info Jay, I'll be working on this project over the weekend. I'll be honest, I'm not new to welding but I've never welded under a car before and with the fuel pump being close I get a little apprehensive ....LOL

I took Faron's advice and put the original heavy springs back on ,and set the timing back to 13 initial. Starts great and idles at 800 rpms.
The original problem I was having after the install of the new heads was on start up the engine would be warming up (around 1500 rpms) and then just start to die. This will continue until something changes.  I use electronic choke...

Another thing I noticed is the damn carbon contact in the MSD cap is burned off again. I swear you should change the cap on these MSD dist. when you change the oil !
I've been thinking of a new distributor , what would be a good choice ?? MSD Digital E-Curve ??

Something Larry talked about was rotor phasing and I noticed when I lifted the rotor that the lugs on the reluctor are never lined up with the magnetic pick up as it shows in the picture.
Correct reluctor position is the first pic,
my reluctor is the second pic....
BTW, thanks for all your kind help fellas....