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Messages - BigBlueIron

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391
FE Technical Forum / Re: Where to mount an extra temp sensor
« on: February 12, 2016, 11:08:57 AM »
I have done some amount of aluminum welding with about 4 or 5 different setups. My take on it, A spool gun is a good get you by as mentioned the wire can have a tendency to deform as it reaches the puddle and be a real pain, positioning and angle are a big player in this also if the welder is capable changing the pulse width can help tremendously this is something you just have to play with. Used or dirty material is the worst for a spool gun.

I haven't done much tig welding, have one sitting the corner same as new but I find for myself that I'm much more skilled using other methods and the "look" of a tig weld doesn't make me all super excited like it does most people, just glad I can do it and obtain satisfactory results.

The best I have used is the push pull style, current setup is a Miller 350P dedicated to a 30' Python gun. The gun/whip cost as much as the welder! But it works great not as picky about material and leaves a much nicer higher quality weld, its more akin to using a regular mig. The major advantage is the adjustability of the welder itself, its more than just amps and wire speed, the same spool gun will provide much better results used on such a welder as compared to simpler/cheaper welder.

Remember if aluminum has been in contact with oil to preheat to try and remove as much soaked in oil as you can, and NEVER weld aluminum with oil in direct contact with oil, for example an aluminum oil tank with out first draining and cleaning excess oil out, It can cause an explosion.

Snap-On welders are a Systematics, a cheaper but still good welder, I have been around about 4 of these. I used to hate and cuss them until one day we replaced the whip on one with I think Miller. It was an entirely different machine to say it made it better would be an understatement. Ended up replacing the whips on a few of the others and it made the same improvement. I recommend if anyone has a Snap-On/Systematics to replace the whip with a quality one from Miller or Bernard it will make it better then it was brand new!

392
FE Technical Forum / Re: Thoughts, Advice on block porosity
« on: February 11, 2016, 01:56:51 PM »
Maybe it's just me, but it looks like there's a hairline crack extending from the oil hole over to that porosity hole, which would concern me enough to have it magnafluxed. Maybe it's just dirt, or an oil streak. Chances are you wouldn't have any trouble at that power level, but I would do it for piece of mind. A crack will only do one thing, get worse.

I have looked it over fairly good specifically for a crack but did not find any.
One big thing to consider: if his block has been run (and it certainly looks like it) for thousands of miles already, it's pretty much good to go.

I do remember long ago while at Brigance Chevrolet in Oak Park, IL in the early 70's (confession: started out racing BBC''s in early Camaros!) once in a great while a car would come off the car hauler and the engine leaked oil into the coolant, the other way around or fluids just leaked out period. Chuck White, the expert parts guy, said the mechanics would just do a fast look-over and then pop the engine and stuff in a brand new replacement long block! I asked Chuck why and he said that since the car was new and untitled, they took a risk in doing a teardown and repairing the numbers matching engine. Instead GM said to put the removed engine on the side and await pickup for inspection. 

Sad part? Chuck later told me it was b.s. and the GM driver that did the pickup said the engines went right to a junkyard where they were smashed up and recycled. I wanted to buy one Z-28 302 and one BBC from  the set-aside pile but this was strictly forbidden as the dealership then would not get credit for the new engine swap! 

This engine has had a long life, bearings very worn but all look the same, indicating to me things where fairly happy. I would have considered it one of my best cores if it wasn't for the porosity. The plan is to contunie with the build and see what happens.  :)

Sad some of the "Good" parts that get thrown away for warranty reasons..


393
FE Technical Forum / Re: Thoughts, Advice on block porosity
« on: February 11, 2016, 10:57:06 AM »
Not sure it matters but I thought I would note this is a mirror 105, 3 web block. I think D4TE Not positive, I can check all the block numbers if anyone cares to know.

394
FE Technical Forum / Re: Thoughts, Advice on block porosity
« on: February 11, 2016, 10:50:17 AM »
Area along the pan, I was mocking up to drill and tap for an FT oil pickup. Ugly... :-[

395
FE Technical Forum / Re: Thoughts, Advice on block porosity
« on: February 10, 2016, 01:44:48 PM »
That's the plan, wasn't so worried for no more power then I plan on, just more curious how often anybody else sees this and has it caused them any issues.

396
FE Technical Forum / Re: Thoughts, Advice on block porosity
« on: February 10, 2016, 12:25:27 PM »
Show a picture?

Took me a minute to resize everything..

397
FE Technical Forum / Re: Thoughts, Advice on block porosity
« on: February 10, 2016, 12:17:07 PM »
Bearing from this journal, no abnormal wear or bad indicators.

398
FE Technical Forum / Re: Thoughts, Advice on block porosity
« on: February 10, 2016, 12:14:48 PM »
pic 4

399
FE Technical Forum / Re: Thoughts, Advice on block porosity
« on: February 10, 2016, 12:13:30 PM »
Pic 2

400
FE Technical Forum / Re: Thoughts, Advice on block porosity
« on: February 10, 2016, 12:10:51 PM »
pic 1

401
FE Technical Forum / Thoughts, Advice on block porosity
« on: February 10, 2016, 11:54:06 AM »
Pulled a block out last night to look over and do a few oil mods to in anticipation of a future low buck grenade motor. I believe this to be a late model 360 that has never been gone through. Stock bore nothing out of the ordinary so far with the exception of the attached pictures... First FE block Ive had like this, there was also an area along on the pan rail about an 1.5" with several porosity holes. I forgot to snap a pic of that area but it is much worse but in an area that shouldn't effect anything.

Has me a little concerned since I'm shooting for 400hp on this build with some questionable parts, or maybe this is the perfect block for such a build? If I was building something for a driver I wouldn't worry about it.

What are your thoughts??


402
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Brakes, to boost or not to boost
« on: January 06, 2016, 04:16:41 PM »
Thanks for the opinions guys, I think for now I will go without the booster and if I decide I can add it later.

My boat had surge brakes but who know when last they worked lol, I do have the benefit of a manual transmission so that will make all the difference NP435 with a AA 2 speed split. So an 8 speed twin stick! 70's big rig style should be fun, I'm really looking forward to driving it.

403
FE Technical Forum / Re: coolent drain Plug in block
« on: January 06, 2016, 03:37:21 PM »
I recommend the brass petcocks used for boats, work great and look good to IMO

404
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Brakes, to boost or not to boost
« on: January 05, 2016, 10:40:16 AM »
Hello all,

Building a street rod rat rod whatever you wana call it.. Need opinions on power brakes, are they needed?? 1950 Ford F1, Front is converted to disc, rear will remain stock for now with new wheel cylinders of course.

Will I have good pedal with a manual type master or should I do the extra work time and money for the booster? A manual would be very easy to fab in, this will be mounted under the floor either direction I go and I'm worried about clearance with a booster.

I may occasionally tow a 20ft boat.

What are you experiences with manual brakes? Last truck I had a 74 4x4 had manual drums, I didn't think it was to bad.

Vacuum should not be an issue if I do go the booster route. This is FE powered just in case you were worried!

405
Member Projects / Re: 1975 Ford FE Powered Sled Puller
« on: January 05, 2016, 10:32:21 AM »
I have been around pulling a little, done a little diesel work stock and helped a good friend build a 9500# Limited Pro tractor from the ground up last winter, it was a blast, lot of hard work. Pretty cool with 1500hp and 3500# on the dyno tho!

Pullers are veeery tight lipped for sure.

I sent a PM, by the way your truck sounds great. Need more FE's pulling!!

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