Fe powered 1968 cougar, first engine build.

[Pat86004]

I bought this car back in January and spent a lot of time getting the swapped in 302 (originally a 390 car) running just so I could drive it. Since then I have made up my mind I'd like to take back to an Fe block. I did a little searching and ended up with a truck 390 and c6 transmission for 500$. The engine was running and transmission shifting just fine the day before I bought the combo. Since I have stripped it down to bare block, and have the block at the machine shop being cleaned and magnafluxed. Once I get the word back from the machine shop, I'll have to decide what exactly I want to do. I'm a little torn, a part of me just wants to put together a performance 390, or bite the bullet and put a stroker kit in it. This will be the first engine I've ever attempted to build. I'd like just a good strong street motor that I might take to the strip once or twice a year just for the giggles. I've been doing a lot of reading and have been having trouble finding much in the way of a hot 390, everyone seems to be leaning towards strokers. Is there a reason for this? If anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears, trying to absorb as much information as I can before I start buying parts.

[jayb]

Welcome to the forum. There are a whole bunch of good reasons to go with a stroker kit for that 390.  Personally, I wouldn't build an FE these days without a stroker kit of some sort.  Here are some of the reasons:

- An extra 50+ cubic inches.  This will equate to about an extra 50 horsepower, and 50 foot pounds of torque, all else being equal.

- Stroker kits use new components, rather than 50 year old stock components.  You will occasionally see the stock components fail due to use and age, even if they check out OK when you rebuild them.

- The stroker kits all use big block Chev rod bearings, which are wider than an FE rod bearing.  This gives more load carrying capacity to the bearing, and eliminates a performance weak spot in the FE.  In fact, in the 1960s Ford made a special NASCAR crank that used wider bearings just for this reason, and drag racers back in the day would sometimes machine an FE crank for Chrysler rod bearings, which were also wider than the stock FE bearing.  The rod bearing upgrade all by itself is worth going to a stroker kit, in my opinion.

Assuming you go to a new piston on your 390 with a modern ring package, the difference in cost between going with a stroker kit and rebuilding the stock 390 stuff is probably less than $1000.  Its a no brainer, to me anyway.  One downside right now is that from what I understand, the cast stroker cranks are out of stock in some places.  You can substitute a forged stroker crank but they are more expensive.  The cast cranks are good for 700 HP, and the forged cranks for more.

Also, just my opinion, but if it comes to brands, I'd stick with Scat.  If you get an RPM crank, it will likely have to be turned after you get it to really make it straight.  And I'd steer clear of Eagle, that brand has had some issues.

Good luck on the project!

[Pat86004]

Thanks for the reply, I'll definitely look more into it. What about 431vs445? I wonder about longevity and reliability and such.

[Drew Pojedinec]

I don't see there being much in the way of durability difference in them to be honest.

Jay's 445 dyno mule has probably seen 100times more abuse than anything I'd ever use and last I asked about it's health, it appears to be just fine.

[My427stang]

Let me throw out wet blanket comment LOL

How nice is the car, or how nice is it going to be?  You only need to answer to yourself, but a 390 with a light cut of the deck and some TRW/Speedpro forged pistons, cam, intake, headers and a good rebuild can be a very fun ride, especially compared to a 302.

However, if this is a beauty that you intend to keep a long time, the 445 will make you smile from ear to ear, but every part will be  more expensive.  Not ridiculous, but more

This comes from a guy that has strokers in everything LOL so I am definitely pro-stroker, but the parts you have are likely only a set of L2291s and a deck cut from being a snarly little 390

As far as 431 vs 445, go for the cubes, FEs don't have reliability issues when stroked, plenty of room.  My 489 has been together since late 2006 and is as good as it's ever been.

[Barry_R]

We seem to gravitate between budget oriented 390s with cast or hyper pistons and stock rods - - and 445 stroker packages with aftermarket heads and all the trimmings.  Not a lot of in between there and very, very few 431 kits or completes are done at all.

The difference between the 390 and 445 is around what Jay noted.  If you already own a bunch of the parts and want to keep a tight handle on costs - do the 390 and it will work fine and be lots of fun.  If you need to purchase a bunch of parts new - or if they all need to be reworked - go to the stroker deal.

[Pat86004]

Just left the machine shop, the block is good and is scheduled to be bored early next week. Guess it's time to make up my mind. My biggest concern is having a good fun powerful street car, and I know one guy with a duster with a bored and built 360 who I'd really like to serve some humble pie to.

[mbrunson427]

One of the cars I have the most fun driving is our '67 Mustang. It's an S-Code car that has been in the family since 72. With the engine that's in it right now, I'd say it's about  a 400 horse setup. It's a 390 with 352 hipo heads and an edelbrock rpm intake. When I think about what makes it fun compared to some of the others......it's the lack of worrying about issues. Crank it over until the oil pressure light goes off, pump the gas pedal twice, and it starts every time. As far as fast....I know it'll hang with a late model Corvette.

I'm building a 428 for this car right now, going to balance the crank this weekend and I'll be ready to assemble. This is one of the things I've focused on not ruining about the car. I don't want it to have overheating issues or any other things that stick in the back of your mind as you drive it. Just want to be able to turn the key and drive, and I think there's a lot to be said for that, more than an extra bit of horsepower.

[Pat86004]

Thanks for the replies, I've decided after a lot of thinking and reading that I'm going to keep it a 390 in the interest of keeping costs down to pay for other goodies down the line a little.

[manofmerc]

The weak point even with 390 cubes are the rods .You might consider a set of h beams .Scat or eagle are good brands .If you install new bolts and have your old rods resized you are halfway to a set of new h beams . Your block and crank are strong pieces , 50 year old rods are the weak link in my opinion .If your budget allows consider some rods .Doug

[Pat86004]

I'll consider it, but according to the casting numbers on the rods I have were cobra jet rods. Those should be pretty solid ij would think

[thatdarncat]

Just an FYI, you generally can't go by the casting number to identify a 428 CJ connecting rod since the CJ rod was the same as the standard 390/428 connecting rod, but with larger 13/32" bolt installed instead of the usual 390/428 rod's 3/8" bolt. When using a stock rod some people actually like the standard rod with a better quality 3/8" bolt ( like ARP ) since it leaves more material on the rod around the bolt. I'm not advising you to use the stock rod, you and your machinist can make that call, my machinist has been advising not to use 50 year old standard rods anymore, but I tend to be more on the severe duty side of things. Here's a link to the 428 Cobra Jet website page on connecting rods.

https://www.428cobrajet.org/id-connecting-rods

[LucasD]

Thanks for the replies, I've decided after a lot of thinking and reading that I'm going to give Har Vokse a try and keep it a 390 in the interest of keeping costs down to pay for other goodies down the line a little.

I think that's a smart choice. There's so much good stuff to spend money on.

[scott foxwell]

I'm doing a +.030 390 with Icon pistons, Scat H beam rods and a stock crank. Mild head work and a hyd roller should put me over 500hp on pump gas with a Performer RPM/950hp or med. riser 2x4 and 1850's. I think the Performer will win out on that one.Looking at 6500rpm range.

[Hemi Joel]

If you're going to be a bear, you might as well be a grizzly, right?

So you want to beat that duster? I think Dusters are ugly, but I know they are light. A well set up small block Duster can be very quick. Don't mess a round and regret it later. Put the cubic inches into it, you will be smiling in the end.

That's step one. THen you need a driveline and suspension to handle the power. All that HP does you no good if you can't hook or your chunking parts out onto the pavement.