Made a start on a new project today. I will post photos as I go and people can have a go at guessing if they want. So for now it's the 'mystery project'

nm

I recently rebuilt the pump on my 67 Fairlane and took some photos along the way to help anyone who may also want to do this themselves. I will preface this by saying I am not an expert and this is the first ps pump I have ever rebuilt so I am not saying THIS IS HOW TO DO IT, just how I did it. So if your looking for an insight into whats involved please follow along.

When I bought my Fairlane it had a noisy and leaking (fancy that  ) ps pump. The prevoius owner had bought a secondhand one off ebay and it was in the boot (sorry, trunk). I installed it and it too was noisy and leaking. I threw in a bottle of power steering stop leak/conditioner and it shut up but of course did not stop leaking. This was 3 1/2 years ago and it has been quiet ever since but still leaking. It really made a mess of the sway bar rubber and I want to replace it but of course a bit pointless with the pump still leaking so I decided to have a go at the one I took off 3 1/2 years ago and then rebuild the one I take off as a spare.

Internet research and a phone call to a very friendly and helpful gentlemen at http://www.stangerssite.com/FPparts.html uncovered the fact that once the campacks are noisy thats it, they are noisy forever. They are also no longer available, hard to come by now and there are two different sizes. I thought I would have a go anyway.

So I am after 2 kits and 2 bushes. I found the kits and bushes at Driveline Auto Parts (ok guys I am in Oz).
http://www.drivelineap.com.au/contact.html
Not sure how easy the bushes are to get now days. They had one in stock and the other had to come from interstate. I asked for a third as spare but this hasn't materialised yet.

Driveline part numbers.
Gasket and seal kit: PSK8034 SEAL KIT PUMP FORD C1 (TIN RESERVOIR) = au$15.95 + GST
Bush: 86280 BUSH PUMP FORD C1 (CAST IRON) = AU13.65 + GST

First thing to do is probably the hardest part. Get the pulley off. DO NOT pull on the pulley or lever it with screwdrivers etc. it must be pulled or pressed off holding the boss on the front designed for this. Clean out the hole (I had to run a tap through mine, 3/8 UNC), screw a bolt in as far as you can and press on that. Here is my rudimentary set up.




It really takes some effort to shift this and I wasn't sure this set up had the ooomph. It was a bit scary so I donned saftey glasses. It took a great deal of effort and I actually bent one grade 5 bolt as the puller was a bit off centre!




After much persistance it finally came. Before going any further note the position of the large square chung of casting coming off the spigot area. This is the return hole from the seal area. On mine viewed from the front with the fill tube verticle it sits about 45 degrees to the right, about the 1.30 position.


Someone had obviously used the can to lever pressure on the belt when tightening. Not cool.


After undoing the large nut on the pump outlet fitting the reservoir slips off with some persuasion. Then unbolt the pump housing and you are left with this.


The pressure valve stayed in the pump housing. Just held in with friction from its O ring seal. A few taps of the hosing on a block of wood and it fell out along with the two large springs behind it.


The end plates and all pump bits merely slip off the dowels. You can see the noisy campack here. Note the orientation of the little slippers.

I installed some new weatherstrip on the convertible today and ended up making a tool to straighten the area that it clips  into. I did the hardtop about 15 years ago and I think I had the glass out at the time and straightened the area with pliers from below. Took my time with the tool and got the door as straight as possible and am very happy with the result.

Wouldn't it be really cool if someone (still trying to think who?) could CNC some eagle emblems with any chosen displacement? ie 445 etc.

Just thinkin.

Looking for 1 or more in excellent condition only. The blue emblem peice only.

I have a colleague coming out from the US in a couple of weeks so postage would only be to Denver.



Thanks.

For a while now the old 390 has been hitting a wall at at 6200rpm. If I persist it bends pushrods. It used to spin to 7000rpm with no issues so I thought a valve spring check would be in order. I bought a pressure checker from Summit ages ago and have only just got around to making my insitu tool. Here are some pics.

Machined down some old rockers and stands, welded the rockers together, cut and old 1/2" square drive socket and welded it to the rockers and made a cup for the spring checker to sit in so as not to damage it.




To check spring pressure you need to stack 2 stands and an extra 15mm spacer.




If the springs need replacing then remove the extra stands and checker and the tool can be used to pop the collets.