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Messages - blykins

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4816
Sorry, the QFT 950 and the Holley HP Ultra 950. 

4817
The new Holley Ultra HP 950's are true 950's, but the venturis are much, much larger than a comparable Q-950 Quick Fuel, which can cause issues with smaller engines and street driving.  I did a back to back test with a 445ci Windsor and the Q-950 QFT was good for 11 more horsepower.

4818
FE Technical Forum / Re: Best aftermarket block and rotating assembly
« on: September 29, 2013, 02:01:42 PM »
My vote would be the Pond block.  I'm doing a TP build right now with a Pond cast iron block and Gary Vere's TP heads, and have done 4 other Pond block builds in the past 2 months. 

I use a lot of the Pond stuff....mainly aluminum, but the cast iron blocks are super sweet as well and will hold tons of horsepower.   I posted a pic of the cast iron block over on the other forum...just had Robert deliver me one last week.   The cast iron blocks and the aluminum blocks (Pond) are both the same price.  Both come with main and head studs and a set of cam bearings.

A Scat crank and rods would be my weapons of choice.  A cast crank will hold up to that horsepower, but Scat has the forged pieces out as well if you want some insurance.   I predominantly use the Scat pieces and have seen nothing but good quality out of them.

I've used one Dove block, and it was a "vintage" one.  It was very rough on the outside, but machined up well. 

4819
FE Technical Forum / Re: T @ D rocker arm kit / street
« on: September 25, 2013, 09:06:15 AM »
In most cases the T&D pushrods will be cheaper.  I block the feed in the head and oil through the pushrods, so you can just snag any high quality oiling pushrod in 5/16 or 3/8.  Can cut your pushrod bill in half, considering there are lots of off-the-shelf choices with the more common ball/ball oiling stuff.

4820
FE Technical Forum / Re: T @ D rocker arm kit / street
« on: September 24, 2013, 08:09:52 AM »
I see the one machined bolt.....these are pressure fed like stock....not fed through hollow pushrods.......Cory

They will feed either way.   

4821
FE Technical Forum / Re: Has anybody done a 2x4 EFI?
« on: September 19, 2013, 06:40:57 AM »
Yes, you can use the extra throttle body for the EZ system.

4822
FE Technical Forum / Re: Clutch Fork
« on: September 04, 2013, 05:48:43 AM »
It depends on how your bellhousing is set up.  If it uses the wire clip, then you may have to resort to a factory fork.  If you can use the steel tab in the pivot, then McLeod and some others offer new clutch forks that will work just fine.

4823
FE Technical Forum / Re: valve stem seals
« on: August 29, 2013, 02:39:35 PM »
I've had some ones that were stubborn to get on, but I've never had one loose enough that I thought about doing something to make it stay.

 

4824
FE Technical Forum / Re: To anyone thinking of a 5 speed
« on: August 29, 2013, 02:37:17 PM »
A TKO 600 will withstand a lot of abuse.  They are rated for 600 lb-ft of continuous torque, not a peak torque for a few seconds.  They can also be built to hold about 700 lb-ft with just a few upgrades.

With that being said, they have inherent detail flaws, just like anything else.  Tolerance stacking on gear cones and synchronizers allow for less than desirable shifting at higher rpms.   We modify the gear cones, along with replacing the shift finger, and this clears it up. 

4825
FE Technical Forum / Re: 427 dry sump and power question
« on: August 26, 2013, 12:29:35 PM »
You'll find the most difficult issues are getting all the necessary brackets and mandrels to run accessories.  I've done several dry sump engines and the easiest part is getting the pan and bolting it on....hahaha

Before you buy the pump and brackets, you'll need to map out how many stages you want on the pump.  If you are going to have the pump pull vacuum on the crankcase, it will need an extra stage for that, along with the associated plumbing.  Also, if you plan to run any accessories other than the alternator, you will need to know for when you buy the mandrel, spacers, etc. 

If you go with Aviaid, have your game plan mapped out and I would suggest buying everything that you need from the same company.  Dry sump stuff is cool....definitely not cheap, but definitely cool.

4826
FE Technical Forum / Re: Old Timey 427 SO Build question for Jay
« on: August 21, 2013, 08:37:08 PM »
It's certainly easier to get the horsepower out of the big inch motors.  However, I've done (4) 482-487ci FE's in the past 6 weeks and I understand when guys want something a little different.  So if they're willing to go past the "normal" street build and spin the engine up a little bit, the smaller strokes can work out. 

However....hitting 700hp with 427 cubes would take a lot of specialized parts and experience.  At 1.64 hp/ci, the normal street parts won't cut it.   

If I could offer a suggestion, there are a couple of 3.980" stroke crankshafts out that you can buy.  Scat makes a cast crank in that stroke, and RPM makes a steel crank in that stroke.  In using that crank, you still have the sense of a factory Ford combo and the extra cubes will absorb some of the velocity and port volume issues with the TP heads.  To hit 700hp with that bore/stroke combination would still be an undertaking in my opinion.

Brent Lykins
B2 Motorsports

4827
FE Technical Forum / Re: "Wild" Bill Feist wins at BIR
« on: August 20, 2013, 11:39:47 AM »
That is a sharp car....

4828
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: New Members - Introduce Yourselves Here!
« on: August 15, 2013, 04:52:55 AM »
New member here....

Thanks to Jay for the approval and for creating the site.  I hope I'll be able to contribute to the pot of information.

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