Half filled with hard rock, on the street, over heating Issues?

Without a thermostat the coolant circulates to fast and doesn't stay in the radiator long enough to get cooled. Restrictions should work, it's trial and error to find the restrictor with the right size hole.

Another thing to think about is, 35mph and above, provide the air flow the radiator needs  for cooling.

http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=9558.25

Could this be it? It's not one piece though.

Those are it. Thanks

And the ones JB427 mentioned, pictures of those would be great. Those are more in to what I was thinking about.

I am thinking stands like the T&D Race rockers, but with a single shaft, but not only with the stock shaft mounting, but the also held down with the head studs. That's why I would like to see the ones JB 427 has mentioned also. 

Not to get off topic, but to those who mentioned AV fuel, I am assuming Aviation fuel, a word of warning, even though it's  a higher octane fuel, it's still not the best fuel to run in our motors.
 First off, Airplane motors are low compression, and second AV fuel has chemical additives, such as de-iceing agents for high altitude. The ones who run it, notice the white soot tailpipes ?
For me, it's not worth it to cheap out on fuel to save a few bucks, after the money I have in my motor, just saying.

For Nostalgia reasons, I went with the Sidewinder for my build, but mine I had welded and then ported by Joe-JDC. My build is a 468 with a set of Blair's Pro Ports that flow 330 cfm and the Sidewinder was ported to those. My cam choice for nostalgia reasons, is the Ford "D" cam @ .625" x 272 @ .050"


Here is a partial post I recently came across by Joe, that I found very informative:

As I read through all this and listen to the questions, it really enforces my point that I have tried to make several times in the past about the head flow and intake manifold flow percentages.  If a XXX head flows 330 cfm, then for maximum performance, the intake needs ~120% more flow, or 396cfm.   You reach a point where the head flow and camshaft average lift/flow numbers do not change regardless of the manifold added to the top of the engine.  It simply will not flow more air unless you change the average flow numbers to a higher number, change the compression ratio, or reduce exhaust pressures.  Every engine reaches a point where nothing will add power unless you change a major component to increase airflow into the combustion chamber.  JMO, experience from years of engine building, drag racing, porting, dyno testing.  Joe-JDC

Here is a picture of my manifold & porting results, and @ 388 average flow, it almost meets Joe's 120% more flow, so I feel good about my manifold choice. My choice was also limited by hood clearance, I ran a Port-O-Sonic before cause it cleared barely, but it's not factory.

And as to the reference to Jays book, that the sidewinder did horrible, I didn't see that, as a matter of fact, it did better than the PI all the way up to the 427, where a ported version of the PI was used against an unported Sidewinder, and Jay decided not to have the Sidewinder ported due to Value ?  And didn't see it doing any better on the 427 strokers, so didn't use it further. It's to bad a manifold like mine didn't get tested.

Hi Joe

Question: You said the "K" as cast flows better than the "J" by as much as, at least 30 cfm & 40 or more better than the "F", my question is
about the finished porting, is the "K"'s ported flow better than the "J" & "F"'s ported flow ?  Or is it just the as cast flow, that's better ?

And is there any difference in the "J" & "F"'s ported flow ?

Thanks

Advice is certainly wanted in this situation. I do NOT want to take the head off.

I want to say I am not trying to be mean, just trying to help. I thought I remember reading in your other post, some one recommended pulling the heads. Well you didn't and now look where your at.

 "re-tapping the hole in the insert", you can't.

Bending the stud, I wouldn't recommend that either, the stud would have to have the bend right at the head, if you could get the bend right where you needed it, which may even be in the threads of the stud or at least the very last thread to the shank of the stud, and that would weaken the stud for more than you want.

You may not want to take the head off, but now you have no choice, if you want it fixed correctly.

Hi
Where is the trans located, and any pictures ?

Thanks