FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => Topic started by: CV355 on September 01, 2021, 02:49:34 PM
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This will be the 4th "new engine" break-in I've been a part of. That's probably nothing compared to many of you veterans...
I understand pre-priming the oiling system by running the oil pump through the distributor port. How much is too much?
The TFS heads were set up with a restrictor as recommended, but taking the valve covers off may not be much of an option here (engine is wedged in, spacers used for rocker clearance- any suggestions?
Oil recommendation? Additives? I always ran non-detergent conventional oil with zinc additive for break in. I've read that Rotella 5w40 is great, but that gets into the synth vs conventional debate. This is a roller setup, not flat tappet.
I had to fabricate a dipstick tube to work around the blower, it was a major pain. I need to cut the cable (Lokar) to length to set 5qts nominal. What is the wet vs dry fill for a typical FE? I just need to know what would be safe to fill to for startup. I figure once I drain it and re-fill, I can put 5qts in and mark it then since the oil system is "primed" at that point.
Any other tips/tricks?
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Should be able to pull the pass. side cover to check oil flow up top. 5 quarts for as static run-up s/b fine unless you have a really big pan. That said:
Use a know good carb (if carb'ed) to ensure a clean start-up. Fill the float bowls with gas via the vent tubes. Pull the plugs (well, easy ones) ground each wire and crank it over to check timing before starting. Have water on hand to re-fill the rad after the t-stat opens. Have a fan handy for extra radiator cooling. Be sure the engine starts after a few cranks and do not keep cranking if it won't fire. Once fired, I'd run it at say 2K rpm for 20 minutes, roller cam or flat tappet. Watch for water/oil leaks underneath. Have a helper at all times to watch for any issues and is ready to immediately kill the engine.
More from JE Pistons: https://auto.jepistons.com/blog/how-to-break-in-an-engine
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Should be able to pull the pass. side cover to check oil flow up top. 5 quarts for as static run-up s/b fine unless you have a really big pan. That said:
Use a know good carb (if carb'ed) to ensure a clean start-up. Fill the float bowls with gas via the vent tubes. Pull the plugs (well, easy ones) ground each wire and crank it over to check timing before starting. Have water on hand to re-fill the rad after the t-stat opens. Have a fan handy for extra radiator cooling. Be sure the engine starts after a few cranks and do not keep cranking if it won't fire. Once fired, I'd run it at say 2K rpm for 20 minutes, roller cam or flat tappet. Watch for water/oil leaks underneath. Have a helper at all times to watch for any issues and is ready to immediately kill the engine.
More from JE Pistons: https://auto.jepistons.com/blog/how-to-break-in-an-engine
I will take another look, but getting either valve cover off with the engine in the car is going to be a nightmare. The 1/2" spacers put the covers almost against the shock towers. Wish I had torn those stupid shock towers out last year...
We're using a Holley Sniper system with the respective distributor.
Good to know on the oil, I'll run 5 quarts to start, drain it, and then put 5qts back in and mark that as nominal.
I appreciate the advice!
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You can't go wrong with AmsOil 30 weight break in oil. I have used it in the last 4 engine builds with solid lifters, and zero issues. Pricey at $7.69 per quart, but worth it in my opinion. Joe-JDC
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We did the same in the last engine, Amsoil 30wt break in oil. It was a hydraulic roller cam, but we still ran it like a normal flat tappet cam break-in procedure because it made us feel better.
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If it were me unless that Sniper has been used before with that dizzy to control timing and its a known good set up I would want to pull it and use a points dizzy for first start up.
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I also use a points dist for start up.
I do it so I can set the total advance, to where I want it and don't have to fiddle with it, when doing the initial run in and the engine will usually fire on the first few revolutions that way.
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If it's a roller, prime the heck out of it that morning, get all your stuff set up and light it off when you are ready. I would leave the thermostat out, or drill a .0625 hole in it, just so you don't have to burp it. However it should be easy. Take your time, no emergency with a roller.
It's not going to eat a cam, so as long as all the parts have oil, you'll be good. I like any name brand 10w30 performance oil if hyd roller. If solid roller, likely even less fussy on oil weight. Eventually the EFI will want a thermostat, but for first fire up, clean water and no thermostat can make leaks less of a big deal. Then when you have it running and idling, you can cool it down and put coolant and a thermostat in
Now, I do not particularly like a 5 quart pan, but if that's needed for the application, be sure to mark the dipstick before you prime, and then get it back to the full mark after. 6 quarts in a performance FE isn't much
As far as break in, if a racer, likely a mellow run to see what's going to be funky, then have at it. If a streeter, I will do a couple circles around the block to be sure I won't be walking, and then get a good run with some accel/decel load, watch the gauges, but in the end, just run it. No fancy timing settings, just set it up and let it get a little time on it
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If they are Morel lifters, I wouldn't use a 5W40. There's a specific kinematic viscosity range that they're happy with and most oils will need to be in the hot-30-weight range for them to work well.
For future engines, always try and prime the pump on the stand, preferrably with the intake manifold off. I've caught *countless* issues this way in the past, hydraulic roller lifters with metering issues, solid roller lifters that didn't pass enough oil, leaks, etc. I like to see oil movement through every rocker arm. I also hook an oil pressure gauge up and make sure that I'm getting at least 70-75 psi on the gauge while priming.
If not on a dyno, my advice would be get it running, check for leaks/issues, and then try to get miles on it as soon as you can.
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Basically what Brent said - I always do the first prime on the stand so I can see everything. A spare gauge is easy enough to hookup for a pressure check. I only use rollers, so "break in" is get it running, verify timing and some carb adjustments, load the motor against the converter 3~4 times then put it on the drag strip. One 1/2 pass, one 3/4 pass, check for leaks/issues, look at a plug or two, "how does it feel" gut check, check the vacuum pump catch can - then hammer the hell out of it. If I did it all right, it'll be find and the ET/MPH will only pick up a little - maybe .01 ET and .05 MPH or so - as it goes the first 10 or 20 rounds.
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All good info, and appreciated as always!