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Messages - pbf777

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481
     C'mon,.......... for "period correct" function: one would place a spacer under the distributor hold-down bolt so as when the bolt is tightened it would lock the hold-down fork rigidly, retaining the distributor body vertically, but permit rotation (don't  forget the grease); then establish "stops", such as weld beads to the distributors' locating rim, shaped/ground to act against the hold-down fork, permitting the desired timing sums of "START" & "RUN"; then fabricate a bracket to the two screw holes for the vacuum dashpot (removed if equipped & don't forget to lock-down the breaker plate if applicable), and cable stay bracket to the intake manifold bolt at the front, for attachment of a push/pull choke cable routed to the interior dash board.  There needs to be sufficient "drag" on the cable or the use of the "ratchet" type, to resist the rotational reaction in operation of the distributor body, and perhaps an added tension spring in the linkage may be required to dampen this effect. 

     This is how we dun-it before the "BOX" come along.      ::)

     Scott.

482
...............................and pinning the distributor at max timing.

............................... - but I do occasionally hear it kick back during cranking.

My question is, what is the benefit of running the engine at total (i.e. max) timing all the time except on start up?


     Having the distributor timing advance function "locked-out" is fine for engines that when in use remain at an R.P.M. that would/should be experiencing full advance anyway; as if only this reduces the possibility of experiencing component or function  failure of such system in competition.   But in the more dynamic R.P.M. operating range required in most "street" operation if this is practiced, one may experience greater difficulties in the starter motor operation (if not retarded as you mentioned), and particularly in manual transmission applications in the transitional throttle applications implemented during shifting and at lower to mid range R.P.M's at moderate to heavy loads experience detonation ("engine knock") which is best avoided.        ;)

     Scott.

483
FE Technical Forum / Re: Methanol/water injection
« on: December 03, 2019, 11:44:42 AM »
It can potentially cause an issue (erosion of blade tips) in a turbo if injected pre compressor wheel, but is still done quite a bit. I don't think there is any issue on a blower.


     With the turbos, I've witnessed failures of the impeller from shedding vanes to complete loss experienced when injecting chilling fluids into the compressors.       :o

      In the case of GMC blowers, the concern would be if the cooling effect to the rotors caused enough distortion to effect the available clearances in either the rotor to rotor, or the rotor to case.  This would only be ascertained upon inspection, as the sum of clearances and fluid varies in each instance.

     Scott.

484
I get the velocity part, it is our friend. ..................... There has to be some middle ground between port size and velocity? ( I'm asking, not telling).
Thanks,
JB


     Just remember: generally to gain in velocity, one much increase the resistance to freedom of flow.       

     And, in answer to the question:  yes!  And this is a trade off that must be established for best effect for each instance; hence why no one engine build combination works best in all instances.        ;)

     Scott.

485
   .............I would chuck the ring gear in the lathe, spun at a good speed, and applied an air powered disc sander, with the 60-grit, 5-inch flex-disc, at a high speed, and remove the required sum of material from the gear profile. 
     Scott.   

       Oops, I forgot the "DISCLAIMER"!     ::)

       Note that I have only expressed practices done in the past, (you know,............. when men were men, but one generally noted that machinist before retiring often were missing a finger or two!) and not advised any one to execute a process that probably would send our favorite O.S.H.A. representative into fits; once witnessing the proximity and potential injury of an operators' hands and arms to a spiraling saw toothed ring gear at speed while the individual is attempting to form a smooth progressive radius with hand tools upon the gears toothed inside diameter, and no guards or other protection.       :o

      Note: I only have a couple of crooked fingers,............so far!        ::)


      Scott.

     

486
     Unfortunately, this clearance relief weakens this casting area supporting the pilot bearing, although under the vehicle acceleration load the force is greatest in the direction of the support web, this area is particularly vulnerable to failure if the pinion bearing preload is not maintained, thereby allowing excessive movement of the pinion head and transfers excessive responsibility to the pinion pilot bearing, and I have witnessed failures.        :o

     Therefore, back when all we had were O.E.M. gear sets and cases available, to reduce this intrusion and otherwise sum of material removal from the casting required, I would chuck the ring gear in the lathe, spun at a good speed, and applied an air powered disc sander, with the 60-grit, 5-inch flex-disc, at a high speed, and remove the required sum of material from the gear profile.  This execution, with reasonable technique was surprisingly quick an presented a good appearance. And for the naysayer, this reduction in the profile was practiced later by the aftermarket gear producers, this being a surface of little consequence in the gear set relationship anyway.        ;)

     Scott.   

487
FE Technical Forum / Re: Intake gasket sets
« on: November 22, 2019, 12:15:57 PM »
     I generally don't like the idea of bashing people or products in formats where the other side is not able to defend their position, nor perhaps should one be forced to do so in a public forum; but, even thou we inventory and sell them, thru my experience, I would not recommend the Fel-Pro "Performance" series intake gasket.      ;)

     Scott.

488
     In the original applications from the O.E. the cases had an additional "clearance" machine operation for the numerically higher gear set (perhaps starting at 3.89/3.91 : 1 (?) and up) intentions, executed on the loop cast to retain the pinion pilot bearing (R1535TAV), as the inside "toe" of the ring gear intruded.

     The later aftermarket gear sets had a reduction in this area of the ring gears' profile to permit their installation with a reduction of difficulty.         ;)

     Scott.

     

489
FE Technical Forum / Re: Timing cover preference OEM?
« on: November 22, 2019, 11:32:32 AM »
      Often the industrial FE engine line (as used as "boat motors" as mentioned previously) incorporated a cast iron front cover. And decades ago, was somewhat popular replacement for those with a bad experience with aluminum examples.       ;)

     Scott.

490
FE Technical Forum / Re: Can I change my Harmonic Balancer?
« on: November 22, 2019, 11:24:05 AM »
       The statement made previously, that the damper unit on the FE 428 is of neutral imbalance sum is correct, and if the shop performed the balancing effort executed such properly, then so it remained, with only perhaps the corrections required to establish such in a more accurate value.  The problem is, you will have to establish this, as if any "corrections" have been made to the damper, lazy balancing executions will at times utilize, improperly, this available surface to permit finishing the job with greater expediency.     ;)

     Scott.

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