Cylinder sleeves and lifter bore bushing's

[fekbmax]

Looking for a source + part #'s for replacement cylinder sleeve's and lifter bore bushing's for a aluminum pond block.
Will I have to go directly through pond for this ?

[fairlanegt427]

I think I would start with pond first,  seeing it is a pond block.  it would be a good place to start. I have his block in my falcon,  he makes good stuff

[jayb]

Robert Pond gets his sleeves from Darton.  I've bought them direct from Robert before, and he is probably cheaper than if you buy one or two, or even 8, from Darton.  Robert buys in quantity because of his blocks, so he gets a better price, and based on my experience he passes that on to his customers - Jay

[fekbmax]

Thanks guys, I'll be making a call soon then. I need at least 3 and maybe 4. I was curious if it would be cheaper to go direct but sounds like going through pond is the best bet.
Again, thanks..

[CaptCobrajet]

Pond blocks do not come standard with bushed lifter bores.  If they are bushed, it was surely done after initial machining.  Someone could have ordered the block from Robert with bushings.  Aluminium blocks really need the lifter bushings "staked" with a set screw in my opinion.  The bushings can loose press in a heat soaked aluminium block.  I keep 1" OD x .872 bushings in stock.  If it is already bushed, and was done for a 1-inch OD, they would work.  You would really need to ream them almost to size after they are knocked into the block, and finish up with a rigid hone.  If they are bushed now, and not insured with a set screw, you should consider that.

[fekbmax]

thanks for the info Blair, they are 1" od bushings and were in the block when i got it used. the bushings are not set screwed but it looks like it would be easy enough to do. none of them appear to have moved yet but they also don't have much wear so they may have not seen alot of use. 4 of them have some slight damage at the bottom so they would at-least have to be changed and well im thinking if that's the case then it would be a good idea to go ahead and do them all. im away's away from that right now though, need to make the repairs to the block and do the sleeves as well. do you also offer a set screw kit to go along with the new bushings ?

[blykins]

Sometimes, the aluminum blocks had lifter bore bushings because they had porosity there and failed a pressure test. 

I've never had an issue with the bushings moving.  Never had an issue with cam bearings moving either, but I green Loctite those puppies in. 

[XR7]

I would think that if you are replacing the bushings, and going through the expense, you might as well go to a .904 lifter?

[blykins]

Yep, good idea on that....

[CaptCobrajet]

You might just ream the bad ones first, and see if the existing bushings are okay.  It is probably better to ream them in a BHJ fixture, but just following what is already there would work if you are careful.  The Chrysler size ID is still fine with the 1" OD.  Staking the bushings is probably more important as the wall thickness is reduced.  Keith, I just use 10/32 set screws.....nothing special.  I would drill the tap size hole all the way through the bushing.....then tap just deep enough to get a thread or two started into the bushing.  The taper on the tap will not allow the set screw to go all the way to the ID.  Just don't go too snug on the set screw so it won't egg the bore, and use red loctite on the set screws.  It should be done before you ream a new bushing, so the "dimple" will get taken out with the reamer.  Staking existing bushings should be done carefully, and going with what Thor said.....if you went to the .903 you could stake before reaming to the .903.  It would be tricky to stake an .875, not having any stock to cut it round again.  A new .875 would be no problem to ream after the screws are in.  I would use the green loctite on the bushings even if you stake them.