I haven't put a diaper on mine (dragster), yet, but I plan to.  What I do after a pass is run the wp and fan to bring it down to 150F, then put the battery on 10A charge for 15 minutes.  If I roll out of the lanes at 150, I'll be back in the pit at 180~190.  If I put a diaper on it, I don't see that getting much harder to do.  At worst I'll put the charger on it at 40A while the fan and pump run.  I have an alternator, small one, and with the big 280 GPH pump the battery needs to be no less than 12.5V to have the bitty alternator keep up well enough to avoid fuel pressure problems.  Note - all that charging may kill this starting AGM and if it does under warranty I'll exchange it for a dual mode marine.  I think the ride is beating it up anyway LOL - hardtails are tough on parts.  The wife's door car has to run fan+pump to cool between rounds but it has a big 100A alternator on it, so no battery issues. 

Note that it was mid 90s last race and track temp was in the 135F+.  This coming weekend, air temps are predicted to reach 105F.  Starting line temps should be well over 140, maybe 150.  Cool downs will be "interesting".  Both for the car, and driver.  We run 1/8 mile and I only run in NoE/footbrake.  I do need to get the car to where I might can run both Super Pro and NoE.  And the trailer has AC thank goodness.  Also, I get to wear 3.2A-5 as a reward for going fast.  That's two layers of heavy jacket, pants, gloves, etc.

My issue is the trans - the cooler is mounted on the side of the rear chassis with no fan and it's 180+ after a pass.  I use a blower with an outlet on the bottom that I prop up behind the rear end to blow on the trans case and pan.  This last weekend, it took maybe 30 minutes to get it down close to 150 and going into 5th round I had maybe 15 minutes so went up there at 170.  I plan to re-mount the cooler so I can add a fan to it.  Cooler is in the area between the right header and the back tire on the side facing you

Well, as you said, that proclamation is seven years old, so who knows. However, it also brings up the possibility that someone is producing counterfeit ignition modules. Maybe Doug got a couple? It would be good to contact MSD about this and see what they say. They seem to have had a good attitude towards fixing out-of-warranty boxes, so maybe he can send his failed parts in and see what they do.

Also, that was before MSD was purchased by Holley.  Buy outs require money and the people backing the buy out expect a return to pay down the debt.  I can tell you from experience, how that gets done can be a huge source of contention inside a company that has a history of doing things a certain way, and now has suits  in the conference room that just flew in to tell them "here are your cost projections and here's where you need to be, get there."  Unsaid but understood is the part about we have people that can get the numbers there if you can't.

Best way is MPH or timed pulls from some MPH to some MPH.  I can tell you that with the AFD heads in the dragster, a drift from 28 degrees to 34 kills a little over 4 MPH.  Thats at 11.8:1 with leaded 110 racing fuel. 

I would just say 850s are usually lazy because they have a large venturi area in relation to the throttle bores.  So it takes more air flow in that configuration to get a good signal to the boosters.  I also use the Holley listings to guess at base jetting for home brew stuff - most of the ProForm  "750" main bodies seem to run around 800~830. 

If you are going to put it much past the end of the header flange (collector end) I would use a heated sensor.  For tuning the street car I have a bung located right past the flange in the collector extension.  Also, I just run one with the laptop until I get the carb tuning where I want it, then put it back in the drawer.  No need to run around with it all the time. 

If I could find a china shop to repop those things, I'd make a killing.  Ain't paying $140 for a spacer LOL.  Yes they work, but looks to me like you could DIY just as well with some epoxy and a bastard file.

Same as 427 - first thing I'd have done with the 950 is put it back in Holley stock configuration.  Those have a rep for running very well right out of the box.  I'd love to have one on the dragster.  That is race only and I still use a power valve.  IMHO running without PVs gets what you saw - a fat carb with poor fuel metering that tends to load up.

Quote from: fryedaddy on May 30, 2017, 04:53:44 PM

i know the big inch FEs will do it but can you get a 390 or 428 in the nines without power adders on a 3000 pound car

Yes.  We can get 390 legal Stockers to go 10.30 at 3000 lbs with a .481 lift camshaft,  so with no rules, 9's are no problem....but.....the car would have to be very good, not just the engine......

Key notation.  Running an automatic in a bracket car, I can assure you that the converter can be worth 1/2 second or better in many cases.  And that's just one item. Suspension reaction, shocks, tires, gearing, HP/Torque curves, launch RPM, track condition, moon phase, track burger seasoning, etc all contribute to ET or lack there of.  Look at it this way, work backwards from your ET request - it'll take around 600 HP at the rear tires to put a 3000lb race weight (driver, fuel, etc) in the 9 second range under near optimum conditions.  That's over 135 MPH in 1/4 mile at least.  So you're looking for 750~800 HP at the motor more or less.  Reduce the weight, less power required to run the MPH goal.  The 351C in my dragster makes maybe 550 HP, but since the car is light  (unknown weight at this time - 1800 or so probably) it should run right in the top of the 8s in the 1/4.  Runs 5.6x @124 1/8, put it in my Falcon at 3250 lbs maybe 6.60s @ 100 or so.  To complicate your considerations, tests show that reducing rotating mass is as much as 5 times more effective in freeing up power than removing static mass.